Sealant comparison

I can do that. Will have to wait until I get the Sentra back or put some new polish on the Rover hood. Are you looking for resistance to road grime?
 
I can do that. Will have to wait until I get the Sentra back or put some new polish on the Rover hood. Are you looking for resistance to road grime?

You got it! I think oily grime is what really makes gunk stick to the paint.
 
Great Research! I hate to ask, but have you considered testing jescar power lock?
 
Yes, Power Lock is on my "need to try list."

Short update: I'm still struggling to get consistent results. Washing with N-914 yields different results than with Reset. Not sure why. So today I use a pressure washer on the hood. No soap, just the pw. The results were unexpected: water sheeted off the entire hood in ~15 seconds. I'm more interested in relative sheeting times than absolutes, so this isn't necessarily bad. It's curious to me.

I'm open to any ideas or suggestions about why this is and what it means, if anything.
 
I have followed this topic from the beginning and I love it because I'm a big sealant user (spray,paste,and liquid) having 2 silver SUVs.

My question is, Do you notice any sealant standing out in terms of looks? Do any of them repel dust or attract dust more than the others? The beading/sheeting results are great to see. I'm just curious as to how they preform in those other aspects.
 
Yes, Power Lock is on my "need to try list."

Short update: I'm still struggling to get consistent results. Washing with N-914 yields different results than with Reset. Not sure why. So today I use a pressure washer on the hood. No soap, just the pw. The results were unexpected: water sheeted off the entire hood in ~15 seconds. I'm more interested in relative sheeting times than absolutes, so this isn't necessarily bad. It's curious to me.

I'm open to any ideas or suggestions about why this is and what it means, if anything.

Didn't we touch on this in the Panel wipe and sealant thread? I think there's a *chance* N-914 could leave a residue on sealants without a rinse.
 
I have followed this topic from the beginning and I love it because I'm a big sealant user (spray,paste,and liquid) having 2 silver SUVs.

My question is, Do you notice any sealant standing out in terms of looks? Do any of them repel dust or attract dust more than the others? The beading/sheeting results are great to see. I'm just curious as to how they preform in those other aspects.
I'm typically doing such small sections it's hard to tell. It's also very subjective and we're all subject to bias. Without some objective measurement I don't think my opinion is really worth much. I like the way Ech2o+Reload looks, particularly on darker colors. I like how Aquawax looks. Collinite looks good to me. I can't say that many other aren't as good as these.

About a year ago I put several different products on the wife's boxster. Can't recall all of them, but Polish Angel Cosmic Coating, Collinite 845, and DG 111 were in the mix. Based on comments here you would have expected some difference, right? She said the all looked and didn't really see any difference. Note that the Boxster has crazy curved panels so maybe makes it harder to compare. But to somebody who just wants her car to look great, they all looked good to her with nothing standing out.

Maybe a better question to the pros here is: what are the products that get the "wow" response from your customers?

Didn't we touch on this in the Panel wipe and sealant thread? I think there's a *chance* N-914 could leave a residue on sealants without a rinse.
Certainly. And as I mentioned, this is likely also related to me having soft water. However I hadn't washed the hood in a least a few days, and I believe the list time I did I used Reset. Still curious to me why pressure washing makes everything sheet like crazy. Not sure it matters, as the "normal" state for my cars is dirty. The Rover is outside 24x7 so washing once per week means it's dirty 6 out of 7 days. The better test is maybe to see what sheets water when the car is dirty rather than clean(?).

I'm open to any thoughts on how to get this right.
 
Put some products on the Boxster hood. After washing I used DG Squeaky Clean with a black LC pad.

dZwvK10l.jpg


Then taped off 4 sections. I left the front of the hood empty - it's so steep I'm not sure I could differentiate product from gravity.

wPROxmBl.jpg


Wanted to ensure no overspray from Bead Max. Wasn't really an issue. It sprays with a foam-like texture.

CeDvBc5l.jpg


The four products are:

  • Stoner Bead Max
  • RejeX Paint Sealant
  • DG 521 quick detailer
  • DG QD+AW (921/951)
The lower right in the product picture is wrong - I grabbed the wrong bottle. I did apply the 921/951 (detail spray + AW) combo.

Bead Max is interesting: sprays on, then has to get spread, then cured, then buffed off. It applies like a cream or paste sealant that's an aerosol. I WAY over applied it and had to remove a bunch. Guessing it was still too heavy as it took a long time to cure. RejeX is also interesting: it's a true wipe-off after it cures, not buff off. Only other thing I used like this is Sonus Ion.

Wife has the car out all afternoon and these will get sun. Then should sit in the garage for 20 hours or so.
 
Well Rippy, thanks for the work. You have inspired me to try my own variation of durability test, but I'm going to test mine through my touch free automatic car washes. I've had customers ask me for recommendations from time to time and I'm going to try and find out which one can withstand the chemical baths the best.
 
Excellent, gregpack. Please keep us posted on how it goes.
 
I can't wait for this, I've been thinking of doing the same thing, please keep us up to date!!
Well Rippy, thanks for the work. You have inspired me to try my own variation of durability test, but I'm going to test mine through my touch free automatic car washes. I've had customers ask me for recommendations from time to time and I'm going to try and find out which one can withstand the chemical baths the best.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
I can't wait for this, I've been thinking of doing the same thing, please keep us up to date!!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

The test has started, I had room for twelve products on my truck hood. I'm kinda busy right now so it may be a few days before I can post something meaningful.

Rippy, do you want me to start my own thread or just piggyback my posts into your fine work on this thread?
 
Start your own with good title that can be easily searched, I think that will be the best route..you know for science
The test has started, I had room for twelve products on my truck hood. I'm kinda busy right now so it may be a few days before I can post something meaningful.

Rippy, do you want me to start my own thread or just piggyback my posts into your fine work on this thread?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Start your own with good title that can be easily searched, I think that will be the best route..you know for science

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

RippyD is MIA. I sent him a PM a week or so ago and haven't heard back. His research is so thorough I think my few posts and contribution on the topic will pale in comparison and thought my research might just make a good supplement to this thread.

Cliff notes on my (still underway) tests- AIOs suck badly, they were a huge disappointment. I predict powerlock and collinite will be the last ones standing. I'm at ten washes or so and they are still going strong.

This thread is sticky worthy IMO.
 
Yeah I did a aio comparison a year ago or so and none lasted long at all. I just talked to rippy the other day, his box might be full

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
OK, Ive got some data to share with photos. But I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to post pics. Is there a "how to post pics thread"
 
OK, Ive got some data to share with photos. But I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to post pics. Is there a "how to post pics thread"
Just host them on imgur

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
OK let me try this:

Well, inspired by RippyD Ive been experimenting with a few sealants lately and thought I would see how some of these products stand up to a commercial car wash and their cleaning solutions. Although I'm too impatient to wait these products out as Rippy has, I figured I would apply them to my hood and wash the vehicle frequently in one of my touch free car washes and see which sealants lasted the longest. The test vehicle is the hood of my work truck, a 2001 Ford F250 with 335K miles. It was polished recently but not fully corrected. Prior to application I wiped the hood down three times with a 20% IPA solution. I taped the hood into twelve sections.





Weather during this experiment has been Summertime weather in the South with high temps probably averaging in the low 90s. This vehicle sits outside in the sun with partial shade during the day.

I'm measuring the effectiveness/longevity purely based on the hydrophobic qualities of the product and noting when that changes. Once the hydrophobic properties have stopped or changed substantially, I'm assuming the silicone or wax has either been removed or have been altered drastically enough to impair it's effectiveness as a protectant.
 
Products tested during the initaial round include:

Front Row: (L to R) Sonax Polymer Net Shield, Duragloss 105, Meguiars 166 AIO, Klasse AIO

Middle Row: Meguiars Ultimate Paste, HD Poxy (2016 formulation),HD Speed, Collinite 845

Rear Row: Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish, Jescar Powerlock,Duragloss 501, Optimum optiseal



On the spray on products(UFF,PNS,and Optiseal) I followed directions on the label. On the more traditional products I applied and allowed to haze a minimum of fifteen minutes before wipe off. I used a separate applicator for each product and wiped off with a fresh section of towel. I did not think to measure out a consistent amoundtof product but I ensured in my mind adequate product coverage. I did not layer,wait extended times, or any other hacks/tricks on application of various products on the paint other than warming the collonite to liquefy. I wanted to do it the way an average consumer would apply it, or the way a commercial detailer is likely to use it with an emphasis on time efficiency.


I waited 48 hours before the first wash to allow all products to bond before the first wash. I didn't think to get a shot prior to the first wash, but here you can see the picture after the first wash and all products:




I left tape intersections on the truck hood except for the center. As the characteristics if each product changes it will become more obvious.

My Touch Frees machines apply a very strong alkaline presoak on the first pass., This is followed by usually a second alkaline or acidic pass depending on circumstances. We may change seasonally but alkaline does the bulk of heavy cleaning on the paint, while the acids tend to help with inorganic solids and clean glass and chrome better. Acids also work best on snow melt compounds in the snow belt. How strong is the alkaline? Roughly the same strength as Meguiars APC or Super Clean at around 4:1. But most of us know that waxes and sealants are supposedly vulnerable to alkaline mixtures and I was anxious to see how some products held up.

I'll try to begin posting results in the next couple of days , and I have already given away some info in an earlier post, but do any of you guys care to take a guess at the longevity of various products?
 
Products tested during the initaial round include:

Front Row: (L to R) Sonax Polymer Net Shield, Duragloss 105, Meguiars 166 AIO, Klasse AIO

Middle Row: Meguiars Ultimate Paste, HD Poxy (2016 formulation),HD Speed, Collinite 845

Rear Row: Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish, Jescar Powerlock,Duragloss 501, Optimum optiseal



On the spray on products(UFF,PNS,and Optiseal) I followed directions on the label. On the more traditional products I applied and allowed to haze a minimum of fifteen minutes before wipe off. I used a separate applicator for each product and wiped off with a fresh section of towel. I did not think to measure out a consistent amoundtof product but I ensured in my mind adequate product coverage. I did not layer,wait extended times, or any other hacks/tricks on application of various products on the paint other than warming the collonite to liquefy. I wanted to do it the way an average consumer would apply it, or the way a commercial detailer is likely to use it with an emphasis on time efficiency.


I waited 48 hours before the first wash to allow all products to bond before the first wash. I didn't think to get a shot prior to the first wash, but here you can see the picture after the first wash and all products:




I left tape intersections on the truck hood except for the center. As the characteristics if each product changes it will become more obvious.

My Touch Frees machines apply a very strong alkaline presoak on the first pass., This is followed by usually a second alkaline or acidic pass depending on circumstances. We may change seasonally but alkaline does the bulk of heavy cleaning on the paint, while the acids tend to help with inorganic solids and clean glass and chrome better. Acids also work best on snow melt compounds in the snow belt. How strong is the alkaline? Roughly the same strength as Meguiars APC or Super Clean at around 4:1. But most of us know that waxes and sealants are supposedly vulnerable to alkaline mixtures and I was anxious to see how some products held up.

I'll try to begin posting results in the next couple of days , and I have already given away some info in an earlier post, but do any of you guys care to take a guess at the longevity of various products?

This deserves it's own thread! Very interesting real world test you have going on.
 
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