Sealant comparison

[Cruzscarwash]

You are washing with 914 right? That leaves nothing behind as well.

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[RippyD]

I don't see how it's possible for these soaps to leave nothing behind relative to others. Most cleaners have surfactant ingredients, which by definition lower water surface tension. Maybe some of them are easier to remove than others - I'll have to do some side-by-side testing.

Maybe the process needs to be pressure wash, low concentration soap, and pressure wash again?

 

[Cruzscarwash]

I don't see how it's possible for these soaps to leave nothing behind relative to others. Most cleaners have surfactant ingredients, which by definition lower water surface tension. Maybe some of them are easier to remove than others - I'll have to do some side-by-side testing.

Maybe the process needs to be pressure wash, low concentration soap, and pressure wash again?

So that's how I'm gonna do my two new test

Suv is half one ceramic wax and half another

Car will be half mckees hi def maintaned with TMPS (10min paint Sealant) the other will be PNS maintaned with BSD.

I'm going to foam or rinseless with McKees auto wash and then pressure wash rinse.

Now I'm using this soap as in my high heat soaps dry very fast and this so far can be left to dry and still just spray off with no residue

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[Eldorado2k]

So that's how I'm gonna do my two new test

Suv is half one ceramic wax and half another

Car will be half mckees hi def maintaned with TMPS (10min paint Sealant) the other will be PNS maintaned with BSD.

I'm going to foam or rinseless with McKees auto wash and then pressure wash rinse.

Now I'm using this soap as in my high heat soaps dry very fast and this so far can be left to dry and still just spray off with no residue

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If you’re going to be constantly or even periodically topping both sides, how will you determine if either of them officially fail? I’d imagine they’d have no problem maintaining beading if they’re being topped. By then you’ll be testing the results of the toppers not the base layers?

 

[Cruzscarwash]

If you’re going to be constantly or even periodically topping both sides, how will you determine if either of them officially fail? I’d imagine they’d have no problem maintaining beading if they’re being topped. By then you’ll be testing the results of the toppers not the base layers?

Yes, one reason is I want to test the systems

Like when I had the car covered in Meg's wax and used 156 as adrying aid I want to do these with these companies products using TMPS and BSD as a drying aid.

Always wanting to see what each company offers and how the systems can benefit my conditions.

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[Eldorado2k]

Yes, one reason is I want to test the systems

Like when I had the car covered in Meg's wax and used 156 as adrying aid I want to do these with these companies products using TMPS and BSD as a drying aid.

Always wanting to see what each company offers and how the systems can benefit my conditions.

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What did you find when you tested the Megs & D156?

 

[Cruzscarwash]

What did you find when you tested the Megs & D156?

Meg's is always my staple and imo sets the bar for all companies.

Price is Right, products are user friendly and last a decent amount of time.

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[Eldorado2k]

Meg's is always my staple and imo sets the bar for all companies.

Price is Right, products are user friendly and last a decent amount of time.

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How long did it last? Did it ever fail? Stop beading?

 

[RippyD]

I did some soap testing. My assumption about N-914 leaving something on the surface and masking the effects of sealants could not be reproduced. Testing and results posted here.

 

[Cruzscarwash]

How long did it last? Did it ever fail? Stop beading?

156 would maybe..maybe last a week.

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[RippyD]

18 more sealants (one detail spray) added to the Rover hood. It was previously washed, clayed, rinsed, panel wiped. Before adding sealants today I washed with N-914 at 256:1 and then pressure washed with water only and dried.

The hood sectioned off. The 3 small areas will be left without sealant for comparison.

The products. Nice job of labeling by one of you.

The product map.

Q&A
Q: Why, WHY, WHY so many products on one hood?
A: I had about 20 products to test and didn't have access to the Sentra today, so I got creative and added more sections to the Rover hood. Hoping it works out. It may be a challenge to monitor that many.

Q: How did you apply them?
A: Per instructions. For the samples, I looked up the instructions online. Otherwise I followed the printed label.

Q: Did you machine apply any of them?
A: No. All by hand.

Q: How long did you let the pastes cure before buffing?
A: All of them go at least 30 mins, except the Sonax SFX-4 which was closer to 15. HD Poxy I didn't let cure, per instructions.

Q: Anything stand out?
A: Immediately after application HD Poxy looked the best. It has the very nice ceramic sort of look to it. It also has an odd texture. I ran my fingers over it later and it's smooth but grabby, almost like static electricity. It seems very different than everything else.

Q: Anything difficult or challenging?
A: These are all quite easy to apply and go on as expected.

Q: Cure time for all of them?
A: About 2 hours in the garage after application then have to move the car outside for the night. It will get down to 40, then up to 70 tomorrow. No rain forecast, and I'm hoping no condensation. They should good by tomorrow afternoon.

List of products I applied (in no particular order):

• SFX-4 Sonus
• Blackfire Carnuba Spray
• 303 Spray Wax
• Dodo Supreme Acrylic Spritz
• Prima Hydro
• Rupes P808
• Fourstar Spray Wax Plus
• Nanoskin Nano Shock
• Mystery Sealant #4
• McKee's Fast Wax
• Prima Slick
• 3M Synthetic Wax Protectant
• Griots Spray-On Wax
• Griots BOSS Finishing Sealant
• 3D HD Poxy
• Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20
• Poorboys EX-P
• Poorboys EX Sealant with Carnuba

 

[MattPersman]

Looks good. A lot of work but I for one appreciate it. Any of these you used before and liked? Or are they all random stuff from people wanting to see them be tested ?




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[RippyD]

These are all new to me. Most of them I bought. Trades are hard for me to manage. (The people I've traded with have all been great. I just don't like getting 20 small bottles of stuff ready to ship. I'll do some local trades or giveaways for most of this stuff.)

No condensation this morning.

 

[jdgamble]

Your contributions are pretty cool man. Thanks for all the info.

 

[RippyD]

If you have or would get some of carpro reset or gyeon bathe or Meguiars Hyper Wash that leaves nothing behind. A simple way if not washing the whole car is to have a spray bottle with the car soap solution. Rinse first then spray the hood and wash media and wash and rinse off.

Interesting that some have revived from the dead or almost done.

Realized I misread this the first time. I think you're talking about a car soap that has no wax other gloss enhancers. I'm already using one - McKee's N-914. I occasionally use Duragloss 901 or Reset. There are many others that are just cleaners and add no shine.

I initially read this as you suggesting that other soaps are leaving surfactants behind which could mask the beading or sheeting action of a sealant. Based on some simple testing I don't believe that's happening with N-914. I'll check Reset and DG soaps as well. My guess is that it's all a matter of effective rinsing.

 

[tmdals0213]

RippyD, if you were near by, id probably ask if i could hug you, for all the tests that you perform for us. Thank you

 

[tmdals0213]

RippyD, if you were near by, id probably ask if i could hug you, for all the tests that you perform for us.

Thank you, sir

 

[scenicroadways]

Love these tests! Thank you. Is the Ultima Paint Guard+ you used the newer (2014+) formula that's water based? or the old oil-based kind?

 

[RippyD]

Mostly out of products to test but had some franken detailers on the shelf. Put those on the Sentra hood. Washed, no clay, coating/sealant prep polish only, then applied them.

Polish.

The single line of tape is for a small area with no product. I used the hood indentations for dividing lines.

The products. On the right I used 10:1 Reload + 20:1 Ech2o. Middle was 75% Duragloss Fast Clean and Shine, 25% Duragloss Aquawax. Right was Duragloss Rinseless at 8:1 with water. These were all applied like quick detailer sprays.

These went on last night and had a full day in the sun today. I rinsed off the hood with high pressure nozzle (not a pressure washer) and then flooded the hood. As you'd expect, water flying of the treated areas and sticking around longer on the area with no product.

I don't expect these to perform like sealants but am curious to see how they hold up. In retrospect, I should have done another control panel with Aquawax or Opt Spray Wax so I could calibrate how those last in this weather as opposed to previous test. Hmmm... I could tape off a small section tomorrow.

 

[RippyD]

Love these tests! Thank you. Is the Ultima Paint Guard+ you used the newer (2014+) formula that's water based? or the old oil-based kind?

Not sure. I got it as a sample last summer from AG, so I'd assume it's the newer one.