Sealing in Type II Water Spots

Darvetis

Darvetis

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Unfortunately, I have some type 2 water spots on my clear coat. Removed the majority of them using Megs Ultimate Compound with Lake County Orange pad, but couldn't remove all of them (didn't want to risk any damage with my DA buffer). I proceeded to apply 2 layers of Rejex sealant on my car. Will the etching continue underneath the sealant?
 
Darvetis said:
Unfortunately, I have some type 2 water spots on my clear coat. Removed the majority of them using Megs Ultimate Compound with Lake County Orange pad, but couldn't remove all of them (didn't want to risk any damage with my DA buffer). I proceeded to apply 2 layers of Rejex sealant on my car. Will the etching continue underneath the sealant?
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How long have they been on your paint? I ask because I'm surprised that UC and an orange pad did not remove all of them.
 
No idea how long they were on there, I only noticed them when the sun was at a lower angle and I was looking at hood in particular direction...
 
Darvetis said:
No idea how long they were on there, I only noticed them when the sun was at a lower angle and I was looking at hood in particular direction...
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The water spot etching is already dried and should not spread like rust would if not treated.
 
This past weekend I had the privilege of dealing with water spots on my Lexus is250. Previous attempt with claying, compound and polish did not do the trick (PC 7424xp). After some advice from this forum, went with "ironX", clay again, MF pad on a my dewalt 849 with menz fg400, polish with my 7424xp and menz sf4000. I finished with jetseal. It took a couple of passes with the dewalt and mf pad to get rid of 95% of the water spots. Lot of work but car was due for correction anyway.
Hope this helps.
 
I would get them off there the heat from the engine could bake them right into the finish.
 
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