Seeking perfection...

[Dan C]

daniel clark

Registered Member

Join DateJun 2010Locationriverside caPosts95 Rep Power2

Hologram/swirl correction...

with both a rotary and a forced rotation tool such as a flex 3401...looking for the ultimate finish correction system using both tools...first step would be compounding m105 with a double sided wool cutting pad with a rotary....now you list steps you would take along with machine, products and pad selected to finish absolutely hologram and swirl-free Feed back please​

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[Kaban]

It really depends on the type of finish (hard or soft clear) and the amount of defects. Using a rotary with a wool pad and M105 is serious overkill for most type of defects that I have seen.

Always start with a milder combo. If you're using a rotary, use a polishing pad with SIP and break down the polish between 1200-1500RPM. Most of the time, mild and medium swirl as well as any mild-medium rids will be corrected even on fairly hard clear. Unless you have PTG and know you have alot of clear to play with and have serious defects, I wouldn't use anything stronger than I suggested.

 

[Dan C]

fully cured transtar clear sanding with 2000 wet,I want zero swirls and no holograms sneaking out to surprise me!

 

[Dan C]

Any flex 3401 users out there care to comment?

 

[Mobile detail]

Ill sometimes use M105 with a yellow B&S pad then finish with a black pad on my 3401. I can usually get close to perfect with just yellow and m105 on a my pe14. Sometimes with the rotory ill use a yellow then black (without wiping off residue) and Menzerna Powerfinish. That almost always gets rid of everything. 1200-1500 on yellow then down to 900-1200 with black slow arm speed with black cause Im jeweling the paint.

After that if I need to finish Ill use a white B&S pad on the 3401 and P106 to make sure I got everything but I can finish fine with a rotory and PF

 

[Dan C]

Ill sometimes use M105 with a yellow B&S pad then finish with a black pad on my 3401. I can usually get close to perfect with just yellow and m105 on a my pe14. Sometimes with the rotory ill use a yellow then black (without wiping off residue) and Menzerna Powerfinish. That almost always gets rid of everything. 1200-1500 on yellow then down to 900-1200 with black slow arm speed with black cause Im jeweling the paint.

After that if I need to finish Ill use a white B&S pad on the 3401 and P106 to make sure I got everything but I can finish fine with a rotory and PF

I agree you can finish out with a rotary yet like the idea of taking it one step further to ensure a quality finish!