should i expect everything to disappear?

87rx7chick

87rx7chick

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should i expect every single swirl mark that dances around the sun's reflection to disappear?

i just used 105 with orange LC ccs pad, 205 with black LC ccs pad, and then opti-poli-seal with white LC ccs. followed by opti-seal

i checked my work after each step. deep scratches vanished when i worked in the product with the orange pad. but i still have about 10% of the swirls i started with.

now i am not complaining, i am happy as hell with the results. im just curious if its normal to not be able to get EVERYTHING on a stock black paint job.
 
To rookie to answer your question, but would like to see a few more pics of your RX7. PM me a few if you'd be so kind!?
 
Bump said:
To rookie to answer your question, but would like to see a few more pics of your RX7. PM me a few if you'd be so kind!?
Click to expand...

hah thanks. luckly i am not having this issue on the rx7. we just bought a black mazdaspeed 3, 2007, so it has some bad swirls on it that needs to be removed.

the hood looks great so far, all the deep white scratches are gone, just not all the tiny lil swirls.

btw, pm sent!
 
One thing to think about is your stepping backward with your pads. White pads are more aggressive than black with LC CCS pads. That should not cause swirls, but, may leave some marring.

How many buffing cycles of 105 did you do?

My limited experience tells me you should do another cycle of 105/orange (for a total of at least 2 cycles) followed by 205/white. Do an IPA wipedown after each cycle to confirm results. IF marring still present, do a cycle of 205/black with light pressure. Then follow with optiseal on your softest pad such as blue or red.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
 
Unless this is a car that will spend the rest of its life in a bubble in the back of an airtight trailer, then I wouldn't over obsess about getting every little mark out. On a daily driver you will get marks in it the first time you drive through a dust cloud. I've been doing this a long time and one thing that took me way too long to learn was that you have to adjust yourself to a certain level of 'good enough' that you can live with. Otherwise you will go crazy trying to keep the car looking brand new. It just isn't possible or advisable for a daily driver. ESPECIALLY for a black one.
 
87rx7chick said:
should i expect every single swirl mark that dances around the sun's reflection to disappear?

i just used 105 with orange LC ccs pad, 205 with black LC ccs pad, and then opti-poli-seal with white LC ccs. followed by opti-seal

i checked my work after each step. deep scratches vanished when i worked in the product with the orange pad. but i still have about 10% of the swirls i started with.

now i am not complaining, i am happy as hell with the results. im just curious if its normal to not be able to get EVERYTHING on a stock black paint job.
Click to expand...

To answer your question you can certainly get rid of all of it if that is what you are trying to acomplish. As some have stated if it's a daily driver or a pickup truck that you haul gravel in or a showcar you may have different goals. I am curious why you used a white pad after you had used a black pad. Also I would suggest trying Menzerna 85RD as a finishing polish after the 205. Maybe use 205 with a white pad and then Menzerna with a grey pad and then your sealant with a blue or red pad. You can experiment a bit with the Menz 85RD and the white and grey pads.

After I use my more aggressive polish, if I'm going for a perfect finish I go with my white flat pad using 85RD and then I come back and use the grey flat pad with 85RD. Using the Flex 3401 I run the grey pad with pressure for about 4 passes and then start easing up on the last 4 passes. With the Menz' polishes I spread on 3-4. During correction and finishing I run my Flex on speed 6 about 95% of the time. I think on the megs (at least the 205) the recomended speed is lower but I don't have experience with megs yet.
 
CEE DOG said:
To answer your question you can certainly get rid of all of it if that is what you are trying to acomplish. As some have stated if it's a daily driver or a pickup truck that you haul gravel in or a showcar you may have different goals. I am curious why you used a white pad after you had used a black pad. Also I would suggest trying Menzerna 85RD as a finishing polish after the 205. Maybe use 205 with a white pad and then Menzerna with a grey pad and then your sealant with a blue or red pad. You can experiment a bit with the Menz 85RD and the white and grey pads.

After I use my more aggressive polish, if I'm going for a perfect finish I go with my white flat pad using 85RD and then I come back and use the grey flat pad with 85RD. Using the Flex 3401 I run the grey pad with pressure for about 4 passes and then start easing up on the last 4 passes. With the Menz' polishes I spread on 3-4. During correction and finishing I run my Flex on speed 6 about 95% of the time. I think on the megs (at least the 205) the recomended speed is lower but I don't have experience with megs yet.
Click to expand...
fist off. i rather not buy any products that i really dont need that i already have a similar product of. that would be a waist of my money.

2nd, i am willing to settle with mico marring, its not a garage kept car its a daily driver

3rd. i used the white buffing pad last because it has light cutting power and is labeled to be good for wax cleaners , the opti-poli seal is pad dependent and i wanted light cutting power with it. maybe my idea was wrong and i went the wrong way about it but if something is labeled for a wax/cleaner i thought it was good enough to be in the final step or a 3 in one applicator like poli-seal or poor boys polish and seal.


in that case i guess i should have used the green pad? idk. i dont really understand the green pad to much i just know its pretty versatile....


but like i said. im not about to order another product and wait for it to be shipped to me. i do however have a local supplier for optimum products and adams products. but as far as that goes i'm done buying detail stuff, until i run out of what i have.
 
CEE DOG said:
To answer your question you can certainly get rid of all of it if that is what you are trying to acomplish. As some have stated if it's a daily driver or a pickup truck that you haul gravel in or a showcar you may have different goals. I am curious why you used a white pad after you had used a black pad. Also I would suggest trying Menzerna 85RD as a finishing polish after the 205. Maybe use 205 with a white pad and then Menzerna with a grey pad and then your sealant with a blue or red pad. You can experiment a bit with the Menz 85RD and the white and grey pads.

After I use my more aggressive polish, if I'm going for a perfect finish I go with my white flat pad using 85RD and then I come back and use the grey flat pad with 85RD. Using the Flex 3401 I run the grey pad with pressure for about 4 passes and then start easing up on the last 4 passes. With the Menz' polishes I spread on 3-4. During correction and finishing I run my Flex on speed 6 about 95% of the time. I think on the megs (at least the 205) the recomended speed is lower but I don't have experience with megs yet.
Click to expand...
fist off. i rather not buy any products that i really dont need that i already have a similar product of. that would be a waist of my money.

2nd, i am willing to settle with mico marring, its not a garage kept car its a daily driver

3rd. i used the white buffing pad last because it has light cutting power and is labeled to be good for wax cleaners , the opti-poli seal is pad dependent and i wanted light cutting power with it. maybe my idea was wrong and i went the wrong way about it but if something is labeled for a wax/cleaner i thought it was good enough to be in the final step or a 3 in one applicator like poli-seal or poor boys polish and seal.


in that case i guess i should have used the green pad? idk. i dont really understand the green pad to much i just know its pretty versatile....


but like i said. im not about to order another product and wait for it to be shipped to me. i do however have a local supplier for optimum products and adams products. but as far as that goes i'm done buying detail stuff, until i run out of what i have.



lastly. some paints are harder, some are softer, some paints are thin and some have plenty of clear. after market and stock paint jobs very. and last thing i want is to try and try and try to cut threw all the swirls and actually burn the paint right off...


i think im perfectly happy with 90% of all swirls gone, all deep scratches 100% gone, and only micro-marring remaining.




though i will walk away with the advice to do a 2nd or 3rd pass with the 105, i did that only on deep scratches... and i also wont use the white pad in 3rd step. though i dont really understand why i shouldnt, and why it would add to the problem.. it fricken says wax/cleaners right on the description... i would assume its safe for final application/polishing.
 
87rx7chick said:
...and I also wont use the white pad in the 3rd step. Though I don't really understand why I shouldn't, and why it would add to the problem.. it fricken says wax/cleaners right on the description... I would assume its safe for final application/polishing.
Click to expand...

It's just cause the white pad is more aggressive than the gray pad you used in the previous step, Like 5.4 Shelby said. If you were using Poly-Seal as a one stepper and trying to get some correction out of it, the white pad may have been the right choice. But you already did the correcting, so all you want is the cleaning and sealant properties. The gray pad is where it's at for this scenario IMO. Don't forget to do a test spot, through to achieving the finish you desire, before hitting the whole car :xyxthumbs:
 
87rx7chick said:
fist off. i rather not buy any products that i really dont need that i already have a similar product of. that would be a waist of my money.

2nd, i am willing to settle with mico marring, its not a garage kept car its a daily driver

3rd. i used the white buffing pad last because it has light cutting power and is labeled to be good for wax cleaners , the opti-poli seal is pad dependent and i wanted light cutting power with it. maybe my idea was wrong and i went the wrong way about it but if something is labeled for a wax/cleaner i thought it was good enough to be in the final step or a 3 in one applicator like poli-seal or poor boys polish and seal.


in that case i guess i should have used the green pad? idk. i dont really understand the green pad to much i just know its pretty versatile....


but like i said. im not about to order another product and wait for it to be shipped to me. i do however have a local supplier for optimum products and adams products. but as far as that goes i'm done buying detail stuff, until i run out of what i have.



lastly. some paints are harder, some are softer, some paints are thin and some have plenty of clear. after market and stock paint jobs very. and last thing i want is to try and try and try to cut threw all the swirls and actually burn the paint right off...


i think im perfectly happy with 90% of all swirls gone, all deep scratches 100% gone, and only micro-marring remaining.




though i will walk away with the advice to do a 2nd or 3rd pass with the 105, i did that only on deep scratches... and i also wont use the white pad in 3rd step. though i dont really understand why i shouldnt, and why it would add to the problem.. it fricken says wax/cleaners right on the description... i would assume its safe for final application/polishing.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if I misunderstood your response but I was not suggesting you use the products that I do. I was simply discussing my process. I beleive before I did that I answered your questions. All that matters is that each of us are satisfied with our results. I'm sure you're paint looks great! My apologies if you misunderstood or somehow took offense to my post.
The fact remains as far as not moving back down to a more aggressive pad though. I just think it's self defeating. If it works for you then I think that's terrific. Also the PO85RD which I was reccomending is a product that I think does do things that the products you mentioned don't. And again if you are happy with your results as is then you certainly don't need it. Just trying to help and have a good time :)
:bestwishes:
 
A4 1.8tqm said:
It's just cause the white pad is more aggressive than the gray pad you used in the previous step, Like 5.4 Shelby said. If you were using Poly-Seal as a one stepper and trying to get some correction out of it, the white pad may have been the right choice. But you already did the correcting, so all you want is the cleaning and sealant properties. The gray pad is where it's at for this scenario IMO. Don't forget to do a test spot, through to achieving the finish you desire, before hitting the whole car :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

yeah, only reason i used the white pad was because i still had micro-swirls on the paint. nothing serious but i thought the white pad would have been enough with poli-seal to polish the rest away, since the orange pad took care of 90% swirls and all deep scratches. i just assumed the 205 then poli-seal would finish. 205 didnt get it all, so i bumped up to white pad with poli-seal. unsatisfied 100% i came online to post.

the test spot i used was the whole entire hood. not to big of an area but a great place to start.

this is my fist stock paint job project.
 
It sounds like you might get better results if you switch pads for the 205, and poli-seal. If you didn't get good enough results from the 205 with a gray pad, than using the white pad with 205 will get some of the swirls that the gray pad wasn't getting. If you still think there is more that can be achieved after 205/white pad, then switch to the 205/gray pad before your poli-seal.

The reason people where commenting on you pad selection is because it was basicly like doing the fallowing: Wet sanding with 1500, then 3000, then stepping back to 2500. The 2500 by its self might have worked in some situations, but you want to work your way down to the last step being the least aggressive. It makes more sense to go 1500, 2500, then 3000 doesn't it?

I hope that helps clear things up...
 
87rx7chick said:
yeah, only reason i used the white pad was because i still had micro-swirls on the paint. nothing serious but i thought the white pad would have been enough with poli-seal to polish the rest away, since the orange pad took care of 90% swirls and all deep scratches. i just assumed the 205 then poli-seal would finish. 205 didnt get it all, so i bumped up to white pad with poli-seal. unsatisfied 100% i came online to post.

the test spot i used was the whole entire hood. not to big of an area but a great place to start.

this is my fist stock paint job project.
Click to expand...
I see where you are coming from with your pad choice. We are just trying to help you figure out your problem. Please dont think we are criticizing you.

I usually do what CTVeo suggested. 105/orange, 205/white, then 205/gray (if not satisfied). Then use your optiseal with a blue. As you mentioned previously, some polishes are pad dependant. This is very true with the 105/205. By the time you make a buffing cycle with 205/grey, your paint should look pretty good. Then the opti should ice it off without the need for a pad with cut such as the white.

Post some pics if you have some. Good luck. I hope you find the combo that makes your new car shine like you want it to.
 
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