Should I Use Opti Seal or A Traditional Sealer?

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Whiplash Willy

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I just bought a new 2012 VW Golf TDI. I have some vacation time in June where I plan on doing some paint protection.

I am going to clay, and do some light polishing if needed.

For the next step, I am not quite sure what to do.

I am either going to use the Mezerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant that I have, that I have used in the past.

My other option is to use Optimum Opti Seal 2.0. I have never used this product and am a little nervous about the application, but I like how you only have to apply it once.

Having clayed, compounded, polished, and waxed/sealed 4 cars using a Porter Cable DA polisher, I would consider myself a novice detailer. I am a little nervous about screwing up the application. Do you guys think that someone with my limited experience can properly apply Opti Seal? Is it really all that it is advertised to be, or am I better off using a traditional sealer. I probley only have enough time to apply a sealer once a year, so the one time application of Opti Seal is really attractive to me.
 
Whiplash Willy said:
Thanks Mike, you are right, I mean Opti-Coat II. I would be applying it by hand with their foam applicator.
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It's not hard at all to apply you just don't want to leave any excess product on the surface as it will dry like that and once it dries it's on there.

You need to be able to look at the paint from different angles as you're applying it to make sure there's no excess residue for example at the end of an application stroke.

Someone coined the term "high points" to describe excess product on the surface. I tend to use the term excess product.

I demoed this product at this weekend's Detailing Boot Camp Class and then turned 15 guys loose for their first time working on a black car and I didn't see any mistakes anywhere.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to practice on something that's not important to you but really it's pretty easy.

Also, as long as you wipe any excess off immediately it's also not a problem because you can wipe excess off when you do it immediately.


One of my students, Steve, charges up to $200.00 for this coating as an up-sell to his customers. He told me he uses a suede cloth and block like the CQuartz system to limit how much Opti-Coat II is absorbed into the applicator pad.

That's one of the biggest concerns is loading a foam pad with this stuff where it's simply wasted since what you want is the product on the paint, not inside an applicator pad.

I prefer to use a mister like the one Nick is showing in this write up here,

Nick@Autogeek said:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...2-0-permanent-paint-protection-made-easy.html

To make application easier I emptied the contents of the syringe (20cc) into a spray bottle. This ensures more thin, even coverage over your applicator of choice.

Note: When applied correctly, one syringe of Opti-Coat 2.0 is enough to cover two-three mid-size vehicles.



Opti-Coat.JPG


Injecting%20into%20spray%20bottle.JPG


When you're starting out with a fresh applicator you should always prime it first with a spray or two of product. After priming the applicator, only two or three sprays is needed per panel (more so for larger panels). Opti-Coat 2.0 application is as easy as applying Opti-Seal, Optimum's spray sealant, except you spray the coating on the applicator instead of spraying it directly onto the paint. After you complete two panels you will feel like an expert because Opti-Coat 2.0 is that easy to use. When I first used Opti-Coat 2.0 I often wondered how something so durable as a permanent coating could be that easy to use. Leave it to Dr. G to make it happen.
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The very first time I used this and CQuartz this is how I applied it, I poured it into a small pump sprayer that has a mister that does a great job of atomizing the liquid.

I never posted this technique because I was concerned some would see this as the not very thrifty way to use it but if you do a better job then it kind of is the thrifty or at least more effective way to use it.


Go for it!


:)
 
Thanks for your replies Mike, they are a huge help. I think I may try doing Opti-Coat.

I think I will use that spray bottle like you suggested.

Are these the suede cloths you were talking about for the application?

CarPro Suede Microfiber Cloths 10 x 10 cm, 10 Pack


CarPro Suede Microfiber Cloths, micro cloth, microfibre

I would just wrap one around the applicator pad right? I would use the same section of the suede cloth to apply it to the whole car right? What would be the best thing to use to level/wipe off the high areas?

Do I need to be careful to not get any on the windows and rubber trim? If I do, how do I get it off?

When you apply it to a whole car, do you mask off the trim and other places you don't want the product?

Any tips for applying it to tough areas like raised door handles, or Badge Letters?
 
I started transferring the original Opti Coat into a finger pump sprayer before 2.0 came out and recommend it as the preferred method of delivery to the pad. The syringe is a necessary storage container to keep moisture from contaminating the product, but it can contribute to inconsistent application to the pad. There will be less waste and better results when combining the sprayer with my suggestion below.

After applying Opti Coat with just about every technique and applicator I can think of or find. I have discovered that if you apply in 12x12 or 18x18 sections instead of a whole panel at a time, it really doesn't matter what you apply it with because you don't have to spread it very far. I quickly go up-down once, side-side once, then circles like waxing once...anything seen after that gets lightly buffed with a MF. You may want to illuminate the section as you look from several angles before moving on to the next section. It goes pretty quick.

Even if you were to miss excess product and allow it to dry, the product doesn't fully harden for 30+ days so it can easily be fixed with a soft applicator and Poli Seal, GPS, or Finish by hand with a few quick passes.

PM me if you have other questions or concerns before attempting your application and I'll help you through it. Almost everyone comments how much easier it was to use than they thought after they do a couple of panels...so take your time and enjoy the process.

You can apply it to all hard trim (plastic, metal, and painted) so you only need to be careful around rubber. Not that it will harm it, but the spot wil be noticeably darker.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
I started transferring the original Opti Coat into a finger pump sprayer before 2.0 came out and recommend it as the preferred method of delivery to the pad. The syringe is a necessary storage container to keep moisture from contaminating the product, but it can contribute to inconsistent application to the pad.
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Love being vindicated by the Optimum Man!



I took your paragraph and broke your tips, techniques and insights into a bulleted list which kind of give them more focus.
Chris@Optimum said:
There will be less waste and better results when combining the sprayer with my suggestion below.

After applying Opti Coat with just about every technique and applicator I can think of or find.

  • I have discovered that if you apply in 12x12 or 18x18 sections instead of a whole panel at a time, it really doesn't matter what you apply it with because you don't have to spread it very far.
  • I quickly go up-down once, side-side once, then circles like waxing once...anything seen after that gets lightly buffed with a MF.
  • You may want to illuminate the section as you look from several angles before moving on to the next section. It goes pretty quick.
  • Even if you were to miss excess product and allow it to dry, the product doesn't fully harden for 30+ days so it can easily be fixed with a soft applicator and Poli Seal, GPS, or Finish by hand with a few quick passes.

  • You can apply it to all hard trim (plastic, metal, and painted) so you only need to be careful around rubber. Not that it will harm it, but the spot will be noticeably darker.
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Nice. :xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for the help guys! I have a few more questions though. After claying, and a light polish to prep for the OC2.0, can I use 3:1 diluted Opti-Clean to remove any residue from the paint? Or would something likeCarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser be better?

Also, should I just use one side of the applicator for the entire car's application, or will the product start drying out before I get a chance to go over everything?

Also, I have read several opinions on how long to wait for the product to flash, before attempting to level it off with a MF towel. What amount of time do you guys recommend?
 
Whiplash Willy said:
Thanks for the help guys! I have a few more questions though. After claying, and a light polish to prep for the OC2.0, can I use 3:1 diluted Opti-Clean to remove any residue from the paint? Or would something likeCarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser be better?

Also, should I just use one side of the applicator for the entire car's application, or will the product start drying out before I get a chance to go over everything?

Also, I have read several opinions on how long to wait for the product to flash, before attempting to level it off with a MF towel. What amount of time do you guys recommend?
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You will need to rinse Opti Clean or Power Clean from the surface. If using Optimum Polishes, you can just wipe the residue away with a water dampened microfiber and go straight to the coating, with other brands you'll need Eraser, IPA diluted, Mineral Spirits, etc. to remove the oils.

As for how long to flash:
  • Apply Opti Coat 2.0 to a 12x12 section with my method in the previous post
  • When you see that 90% of the panel has flashed to clear, you need to wipe off anything that remains or it will dry as a smear.
  • There is no way to do this based on time because of variables like: ambient and surface temps, wind, etc.
  • If you find that it flashes as quickly as you cover the area, keep with small sections.
  • If you find that you are sitting there waiting on it to flash to clear, you can increase the size of the area you are applying it to.
  • Remember that the surface needs to be cool to the touch and the ambient temp needs to be 50-90 degrees for best results.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
  • When you see that 90% of the panel has flashed to clear, you need to wipe off anything that remains or it will dry as a smear.
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So anything that hasn't flashed to clear would be a "High Spot" right? What would a high spot look like?

Also, should I use a new, clean section of the MF towel for each section that needs to be leveled? I figure it would be best to run it over every section I apply the product to just to be safe.

If I accidentally get some OC2.0 on rubber, what can I use to get it off before it flashes.

I appreciate your help guys! I am going to order the stuff this weekend, and will be applying it late June during my vacation. I just want to make sure I have everything in order before I apply this to my first new car!

Having this permanent protection will take a load of worry off my shoulders!

Also, one more thing. I am going to get a Brinkmann swirl finder light to help check my work. Is the Xenon or LED version better?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
  • There is no way to do this based on time because of variables like: ambient and surface temps, wind, etc.
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Chris, I can understand what you are saying, but I have seen varying opinions on how long the consumer 2.0 version takes to flash. I see people wiping it down with the MF to level high spots within a min after application, and some people say you should wait 30 min!

What would be a ball park time range if applying inside a garage between 80-90 degrees?
 
Whiplash Willy said:
So anything that hasn't flashed to clear would be a "High Spot" right? What would a high spot look like?

Also, should I use a new, clean section of the MF towel for each section that needs to be leveled? I figure it would be best to run it over every section I apply the product to just to be safe.

If I accidentally get some OC2.0 on rubber, what can I use to get it off before it flashes.

I appreciate your help guys! I am going to order the stuff this weekend, and will be applying it late June during my vacation. I just want to make sure I have everything in order before I apply this to my first new car!

Having this permanent protection will take a load of worry off my shoulders!

Also, one more thing. I am going to get a Brinkmann swirl finder light to help check my work. Is the Xenon or LED version better?
Click to expand...

Basically, anything you can still see after most of the panel has turned clear (disappeared) is a potential area of overapplication (high spot). It usually shows up as a rainbow smear on darker colors and looks like this when it has dried:
IMG_5335.jpg


No need to flip the towel. The same towel can be used for the whole car. You won't be wiping off very much at all. Literally one single spray from the finger sprayer will do your section with ease so only wiping off what doesn't flash to clear will not saturate the towel by any means.

If you get it on the rubber, just wipe it with your towel...it may be just a little shiney, but should wear off or rub in pretty well as the rubber is porous.

Whiplash Willy said:
Chris, I can understand what you are saying, but I have seen varying opinions on how long the consumer 2.0 version takes to flash. I see people wiping it down with the MF to level high spots within a min after application, and some people say you should wait 30 min!

What would be a ball park time range if applying inside a garage between 80-90 degrees?
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It will happen within 2 minutes or less unless you just use waaaaaay too much. Spread it thin and it can happen in 30 seconds or less. Just prime the app with two pumps, wipe it on a 12 x 12 quickly in a couple of directions and you should already see it starting to flash to clear...wait just a few seconds until most has dissappeared and light buff off the rest. You will be completely at ease after you do 2 panels and see how easy it is. Most are just reluctant because of the word permanent. There's no need to go slow with the applicator or even panic if you leave a thick spot to dry. Even if you have a spot, it will come out by hand in a couple of passes with and AIO because it doesn't fully harden for around 30 days. Go into it thinking its goind to be fun, not hard. Take a cold drink into the garage as you go and enjoy the process!
 
Thank Chris for all of your help, on this thread and others! I ordered OC2.0 and all of the other stuff I will need to apply it on my vacation! (Late June) Ill be using those Optimum applicators you linked me to in the other thread, and just ordered a Binkermann Swirl Finder Light to help locate high spots! I am excited to get it applied and not have to worry as much about my paint!

Can you tell me what AIO is, and should I get some so I have it on hand "just in case"?

Also, if I do get a high spot, and buff it off with the MF towel, how do I know when I am done buffing? Do I buff it and keep checking until it is clear, like the other parts of the section that flashed?

Go into it thinking its goind to be fun, not hard. Take a cold drink into the garage as you go and enjoy the process!
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Good advice, will do! I just want to make sure I have everything figured out before starting, so I can handle anything that may come up! My most important detailing tool in my garage is my beer fridge and built in bottle opener! :xyxthumbs:

Applicator: Store - Opti Pro Applicator (Paint)

packages-0196535001326164398.png
 
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Whiplash Willy said:
...Can you tell me what AIO is, and should I get some so I have it on hand "just in case"?
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AIO is an acronym for an All-in-one polishing product. AIO's clean, polish, and seal in a single application. We have two AIO's from Optimum. The first is Poli Seal which is a smooth creamy liquid and the second is GPS (Glaze, Polish & Seal) which is sprayable. Either will be suitable for removing AOOA (areas of over application). You could also use a finishing polish if you have that on hand.

Also, if I do get a high spot, and buff it off with the MF towel, how do I know when I am done buffing? Do I buff it and keep checking until it is clear, like the other parts of the section that flashed?
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When you are applying the coating you can "wipe off" AOOAs while they are wet, with a MF towel. This is during application, after the majority of the panel has gone clear and you see residual product in just a few areas of the panel. In this case you only "wipe" not "buff" the AOOA away. It should only take a pass or two.

When I talk about AOOA that need to be removed with an AIO, I am not referring to the application process, but those that were missed and have dried. In this case, you apply the AIO to an applicator and "rub" or "buff" the affected area only untill the AOOA has gone clear and looks right. If you continue to work the AIO past that point, you'll remove the entire coating in that area and have to reapply it there.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
When you are applying the coating you can "wipe off" AOOAs while they are wet, with a MF towel. This is during application, after the majority of the panel has gone clear and you see residual product in just a few areas of the panel. In this case you only "wipe" not "buff" the AOOA away. It should only take a pass or two.
Click to expand...

Chris, sorry I wasn't clearer with my question, I was asking about removing that AOOA with a MF towel during application. So if I see an AOOA during application, a couple of light passes with the MF towel are all that is needed to remove the AOOA. Should the AOOA look clear like the rest of the panel that has already flashed, when I has successfully removed the excess product with the MF towel?
 
This thread just answered everything that I was wondering about OC 2.0. Thanks guys!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
Whiplash Willy said:
Chris, sorry I wasn't clearer with my question, I was asking about removing that AOOA with a MF towel during application. So if I see an AOOA during application, a couple of light passes with the MF towel are all that is needed to remove the AOOA. Should the AOOA look clear like the rest of the panel that has already flashed, when I has successfully removed the excess product with the MF towel?
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Now you've got it!

Jomax said:
This thread just answered everything that I was wondering about OC 2.0. Thanks guys!
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Very cool!
 
Honestly guys this stuff is fairly easy to apply. I suggest taking your time as the most important step. Don't feel you have to do the whole car in one day............perhaps break it up into a few days. The results will be very rewarding.
 
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