Single stage crash coarse!

Kody

Kody

New member
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Hey guys!

I have gotten myself in a pretty touchy situation, my uncle is letting me borrow his black 57 chevy to take a beautiful young lady out for breakfast and in return I told him I would correct his paint and get the car looking as good as it should.

Well I did a small test area yesterday and found out it is single stage paint... I'm not very familiar with single stage. I know it's the same process as base coat clear coat but that's about as far as my knowledge goes.

The paint is very rough condition but I don't see anything that I don't think can't be taken out.

Can I get a very quick crash coarse in the basics of single stage paint correction? Like how far I can go to get some deeper rids out and stuff like that.

Normally I would just research this on my own but I will be swamped the rest of the week and don't have the time to really get in depth with my research.

Thanks
Kody
 
Some rambling thoughts...

SS paint will permanently stain your pads but it will not otherwise damage them.

SS paint is almost always soft and corrects a lot easier than BC/CC. I find black to be the softest and white to be quite hard.

On a car that old I'd suspect it was repainted. Even so, you may want to use a thickness gauge to be sure you are not working on some really thin paint. Start with a light polish and a softer pad.

I'd tape off any edges and high points especially the two tunnels along the hood where the paint thickness will be the thinest and do those by hand.

On black, or darker ss paint, I love to use a glaze and a darkening LSP for a deep glow. You may prefer the highly reflective look of a sealant but I love that glow, especially on vintage vehicles.

Wash your pads in APC, but don't expect them to be clean looking ever again.
 
If using a rotary and a foam cutting pad with any compound comparable to M105 you should be able to remove >90% of the RIDS. The one thing with working with single stage is that you need to give the paint a deep cleansing before polishing, especially if has been outdoors more than garaged. That said, even then, once you start polishing/compounding the paint you will probably still pull a good bit of dirt out of the paint which will load into the pad. So you need to have a nylon pad cleaning brush and some terry cloth towels on hand to clean the pad on the fly. If you have a pad washer that will help after several section or after each panel. SS paint is softer and usally thicker than clear coat, so it will correct easier and allow you to remove deep defects however, you still need to stay off panel edges and high/sharp body lines.
All that said I would say that doing a test spot or two after washing the car with a good decontamination soap and/or APC, and claying with a medium aggressive clay, you should see what you are up against. Hope you have several pads available and/or a pad washer for the pads will be black after every section which means the pad is gonna load up quickly and reduce effectivness.
God Speed!
 
Thanks for the quick replies!

I have already done a few quick test spots and even with my PC and a Adams orange pad (7" fairly mild pad) and M105 I got 85% of the heavy swirling out. I just have a few difficult RID's that need to be addressed.

I will be getting my flex VRG back later in the week so I might order some better pads for it, to speed up the process as well as get me a little more cutting power. Is there any pad colors I should go for? and is there any other compounds and polishes I should pick while I'm at? I have been using M105 then following up with Adams fine machine polish with good results.

Thanks
Kody
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top