Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

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2000jacob

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I am going to do a 62 Chevy Corvair and a 68 Ford Torino soon, but since I have never worked on single stage paint, I'm a little unsure of how to proceed. Can I just quick detail with ONR, decontaminate with a nanoskin and ONR, apply Meguiars #07 and let sit, polish with Menzerna sf 3500, and seal? Or put a coating on? Should I do something else instead? In this (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html) article, Mike Phillips uses M80 on a rotory, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, and XMT 360. Do I need to use these products, or can I use what I have? Also, are there any recommended products for a dried out interior?
 
It all boils down to expectations and the mighty dollar.
 
I want to remove all oxidation, and would like about 95% correction, or as much as I can safely do. Obviously I want to spend as little as possible, but am willing to spend the money if I need to.
 
When it comes to single stage paint,there are no shortcuts very pourous very thin and delicate.first thing would be to look for any prior burn marks with the owner.Then use mike Philips method of rubbing in meguairs #7 glaze then wipe off and see what level of safe polishing method it will take to get the job done.what tools and products do you currently have along with skills to remove the oxidation.I personally wouldn't use a coating on ss paint,just stick with the waxes or sealants.
 
I was planning on rubbing in and soaking with #7 first. There are no burn marks in the paint. I am just using the Harbor Freight DA with 5" LC pads. I have done 3 full paint corrections before, and detail on the side a bit so I've done a few one-steps too.
 
Depending on the severity of fade a da might not get the job done 95 percent.I can't advise you on a compound without a good picture of the hood on a angle.
 
The blue car I personally think it's not salvageable especially with a da.The red car I would do by hand,can't tell need angle shots,regardless the trunk looks to shallow and not enough paint to work with.
 
You seriously need to consider using a gauge to measure paint thickness.if all you did was apply meguiars #7 by hand you would probably add some color to the paint and obviously not remove any defects. SS paints DO require some level of skill and experience as the paint quality, thickness defects etc can be all over the place. I just did a 76 Triumph with original SS paint. It came out good but considerations like preservation were high on the list. Keep this in mind- you don't get a chance to make a mistake if you are machine rubbing on this paint. Even a light duty machine can rub through an edge easily. If you have too many questions it is ok to walk away. Not trying to be discouraging.
 
Okay, well then I will be sure to measure the paint before I take a machine to it. What should the reading be?
 
There are a couple of ways to handle this ,forget the meter for now as we both know there is no paint to cut or correct.Take your da with a finishing pad very mild polish and due a test spot on the worst part of the car.stand back and admire and get the owner and see if he is happy.or just clean them up by hand,I dont want you to lose income but those cars are very rough good luck.
 
I won't be losing income as the red one is my dad's. He's had it for 30 years, so I just want to clean it up and make it nice for him. Most of the car that's in better shape, just swirled, is original paint. The back little bit that I showed the picture of has been repainted, but I am not sure if the painter did a cheap hack job and sprayed very little paint or wetsanded a bunch. The blue one is mine, and I care less about that, and am willing to go a bit more (reasonably) aggressive if I have to though.
 
It should measure in the 3.5 -5 mil range generally speaking. I remember working on a resprayed hood once that measured 9 mil and only had a thin layer of ss color coat on it and went through it. This is rare though but a concern when it comes to old stuff. On the 76 triumph I saw a drip on the pass door and I thought ah hah, a respray!! Not so it measured exactly the same as the rest of the car. Be very careful and do a test spot and start with the least aggressive method to more so until you get an idea of what's up with the paint.
 
2000jacob said:
I won't be losing income as the red one is my dad's. He's had it for 30 years, so I just want to clean it up and make it nice for him. Most of the car that's in better shape, just swirled, is original paint. The back little bit that I showed the picture of has been repainted, but I am not sure if the painter did a cheap hack job and sprayed very little paint or wetsanded a bunch. The blue one is mine, and I care less about that, and am willing to go a bit more (reasonably) aggressive if I have to though.
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It looks like being aggressive still would not yield any kind of results as a paint correction.The da will just mat the polish in to the paint making it pointless.I would use mp number 7 glaze twice around the car,then use a carnauba wax but applying the wax one panel at a time.your goal here is to camouflage and make a improvement.or maybe get some cleaner wax instead of just wax.without seeing it in person I'm randomly giving you safe and sound advice.keep in mind I personally would not use a machine on it,just clean it up by hand and it will look way better than what it is now Gd luck and take your time.
 
I just did a 65 Corvair that had what I call an Earl Scheib paint job. Machine Compound and polish after a thorough evaluation. Results were excellent. Experience in this area pays off because every car is different.
 
Rastaral39 said:
I just did a 65 Corvair that had what I call an Earl Scheib paint job. Machine Compound and polish after a thorough evaluation. Results were excellent. Experience in this area pays off because every car is different.
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nice car and color,his dilemma is that there is nothing to work with on a safe manner.kinda stinks some times but that's age dried up thin paint ss.Ive walked from jobs when there is no room for improvement,and if so one wash will revert back to its original state,then the customer calls you and says what the heck.so he will have to make good of what he has to work with.
 
Cutting through that will remove so much material and will have the look of tiger stripes,doing it by hand will maybe give a little gloss and a uniform appearance.
 
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