Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I want to remove all oxidation, and would like about 95% correction, or as much as I can safely do.

My article on how to restore single stage paint is really directed at,

How to restore oxidized original and antique single stage paint. I also use the word IMPORTANT in the first paragraph where I state that my technique is for people where it's IMPORTANT to them to preserve the original paint because they DON'T want to repaint the antique or classic car.


Just want to make that clear.


And for everyone that will read this thread into the future here's the original article soon to come out as a book

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

And my article explains how the technique works but you have to READ the article not just scan it.

And here's where I used these techniques to restore the original lacquer paint on Wayne Carini's personal car.


LOTS of pictures showing how I restored the paint on Wayne's car in the below article.

Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips

:dblthumb2:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I want to remove all oxidation, and would like about 95% correction, or as much as I can safely do. Obviously I want to spend as little as possible, but am willing to spend the money if I need to.

If the paint on these two cars are important to you... then get some simple terry cloth wash cloths and rub them down with a heavy application of the #7 Show Car Glaze.

After wiping off the last application, inspect the paint. If it looks deep, shiny and wet and you're happy slap a coat of wax on it and then stick a fork in it and call it done.

If you want to take the results to a higher level then try some machine polishing using your dual action polisher with a foam polishing pad and a high quality polish. I only use products that use the best abrasive technology and that's what I recommend. Don't use cheap stuff you'll get crappy results.

After polishing, which should remove some of the swirls and scratches, re-apply the #7 to gorge the pores of the paint with the TS Oils in the #7 and the slap a wax on it and stick a fork in it and call it done.

 

[2000jacob]

Thanks Mike. I have read both of those articles multiple times. I plan on rubbing both down with #7. On the Torino (red) I will get the paint measured and lightly polish if possible. On the Corvair (blue) I will have to rub it down a few more times. Then I will try to get the paint measured, but will probably polish it. Do you think that Menzerna sf 3500 on a Lake Country pads would be high enough quality? Or would it give crappy results. Would it even work on a Harbor Freight DA?

 

[Mike@ShineStruck]

Thanks Mike. I have read both of those articles multiple times. I plan on rubbing both down with #7. On the Torino (red) I will get the paint measured and lightly polish if possible. On the Corvair (blue) I will have to rub it down a few more times. Then I will try to get the paint measured, but will probably polish it. Do you think that Menzerna sf 3500 on a Lake Country pads would be high enough quality? Or would it give crappy results. Would it even work on a Harbor Freight DA?

When I polished mine I used 3D Adapt
And yellow Boss pad (75 Hornet)
Plan to do the same with my 72 Skylark.


Machine polish was leaps and bounds better then both #7 /cleaner wax combo and hand polish efforts
The Hornet paint was single stage Enamel and not Laquer like my Skylark..so will try num 7 first round with Lark to be sure

 

[Rastaral39]

Here's the 76 triumph. #7 in heavy saturation, machine compound and polish( no tiger stripes) re-apply #7 again to add more color to paint. Hood had a steam pipe burst on it with etched in water droplets that were greatly diminished or removed. The red Corvair had a terrible paint job that came back to an acceptable (not show car, just very nice), level of color and shine.There is no reason to not work with a machine as long as you are confident in your abilities and even a machine that is light duty will be far, far better than by hand. Yes, paint will come off, that is normal, you just have to be aware of how much is coming off and how much you have to work with. This is where experience comes into play. There is virtually no guesswork with factory paint (clear coat)in good condition, it's the re-sprays and old SS paints that require a degree of skill. Masking and camouflaging paint is a last resort if it is even an option. This is a good chance to become a more skilled detailer if you have little or nothing to lose customer wise. Just my .02