slight "grittyness" on paint of just acquired '93 fleetwood

D

dochawk

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I just acquired a 1993 Fleetwood.

The paint is good, but not excellent.

I've immediately set out to give it a polish and good base of wax (it has a mesquite tree to live under, which deters most, but not all, birds. That and the desert sun can be brutal).

After a good cleaning (blue rinseless stuff from concentrate I bought here), I set out tow work on the roof with Meguiar Ultimate Polish (liquid). Through the pad, the resistance felt vaguely "gritty" or sandy. I haven't had this feeling before using this polish on other cars; it usually rubs right in.

On each area, after a bit of rubbing with elbow grease and polish, the sensation went away. At first I thought it was still dirty and washed some areas again to test, but no difference from that.

Should I be using a compounding wax or polish or some such before the regular polish in this situation?

Also, around sunset, I noticed pinprick size specks pretty much all over the roof. I went out to take pictures this morning, but they don't show at this sun angle.

FWIW, it was a California car, and I'm in the Las Vegas desert.

It's non-metallic white.

I don't have my own pictures yet, but these are the ones from mecum:

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham | T255 | Las Vegas 2019

Oh, and it's as Fleetwood, not a Fleetwood brougham, and the interior is blue, not beige


thanks

hawk
 
I did not see if you clayed the ride. Might I suggest that to get rid of grittiness.
 
I didn't clay (I have it around, though, unless it was in the lost bag . . .).

by the time I was done rubbing the polish, the grittiness seemed to go away.

Given that, is there anything to accomplish with the clay? And if so, do I need to do anything particular to strip the polish & wax first?

thanks
 
Claying will remove above surface contaminations that traditional washing won’t remove. It will also create a smooth touch of the paint.

Additionally, as mentioned, an iron remover can also benefit the paint as well.

When polishing, your pad is not having full contact with the paint microscopically. You want the paint “naked”.

Lastly, when applying an LSP, having proper prep work will also allow (in your case) wax to bond a lot better to the paint giving it better durability.

Chances are is that everyone is spot on. Claying will most likely address your situation.

Try that next time. If you do not succeed, please report back.


High-End Paint Correction and Opti-Coat Ceramic Coatings * Portsmouth, NH
 
LSP?

Given the amount of surface space on this thing, I guess I'll use clay on the rest, and then redo the top.

If it matters, the manual says there is a clearcoat or something similar over the solid color paint.

And given that that layer is some kind of plastic, is the iron remover still in play?
 
dochawk said:
LSP?

Given the amount of surface space on this thing, I guess I'll use clay on the rest, and then redo the top.

If it matters, the manual says there is a clearcoat or something similar over the solid color paint.

And given that that layer is some kind of plastic, is the iron remover still in play?
Click to expand...

LSP - Last Step Product - wax, sealand, or coating

It sounds like this is a modern base coat/clear coat paint job, not a single stage (paint only) one from earlier times. The clear coat is a non-tinted layer of 'paint' over the primer and color, that helps protect the color last longer. It is the 'sacrificial' layer, but its life is extended by the LSP.

The iron remover will help remove any ferrous debris from the surface. If it has not been in an industrial area or near a railway you maybe fine without it.

As for the clay - Try the "baggie" test a cleaned surface - rub your fingers over a section, then place you hand in a 'baggie' (any thin plastic bag will work) and you will probably feel more 'bumps' than you did without the bag. Go over the area with the clay + clay lube until it feels smooth with the bag.
 
Definitely two layers, but I'd never been clear on whether the top one was paint or plastic . . .

In our sun, the *bottom* layer of tricoat takes a beating :(, but wax seems to be an effective sacrifice.

I don't think I'll need the baggie to know this --I could feel the resistance right through the polish applicator until it was well rubbed in . . .

I don't suppose there's an easy way to test for iron? It seems unlikely from your description, and I really want to get started tomorrow after my new clay arrives tonight (I can't find the old one or some of my other cleansing tricks . . .)
 
I have worked on many new cars and you would be surprised of which cars actually benefit from having the iron decontamination done.

It’s not necessarily a deal breaker. But I like to know that it was done. That’s all.

I will say this.

One time, I forgot my clay at home. But I had Iron X on me. So I of course used that first before I had to run out to the store to grab clay before a paint correction.

After doing the Iron Decon step, the paint passed the baggie test with flying colors. I kid you not.

Though this is on the rare side of things for me and may not always work...it was the once instance where an iron remover saved my life.




High-End Paint Correction and Opti-Coat Ceramic Coatings * Portsmouth, NH
 
As I worked on the hood with clay, I was surprised to see the detail fluid turning the color from the iron decontamination pictures.

Then I noticed I was bleeding :doh:

Coming back after I stopped . . . the clay was *definitely* much easier than the effort with just polish. And from the feel of the roof, did a much better job.

I'm definitely going to need some more detail spray and wax; I think I went though half a container of each (again, it's a Fleetwood . . . *lots* of surface . . .)

And when the *second* gnat got caught in the wax that was waiting to be buffed, I figured it was time to call it a day.

But the hood is done, and the top has polish and a couple of coats of wax, and these are the two largest panels. Maybe the trunk and front fenders tomorrow . . .
 
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