So Many Test Spots

Eldorado2k said:
Try the D300 with the LC Orange pad 1st... If it works it’s easier on the paint [I think you said it’s a lease, but still] and overall faster to do than the microfiber pads because you’ll spend less time cleaning. How many microfiber pads do you have? You’ll need at least 4 and that’s cutting it slim.
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I will try that first as I only have the 2 that came with the kit plus a Griots Fast Cutting MF pad. If I have to move to the MF, I'll just have to clean as I go.

Thanks, Eldo.
 
Ok, the D300 w/ the LC orange worked! There are a very few slight imperfections here and there, but I can live with them, they're that light and I have to really look for them.

I should use a LC white with the Essence?
 
I corrected a 2008 Passat earlier this year and couldn't believe how hard the clear was. A LC yellow pad and m105 worked, but it took multiple passes.
 
h8dirtycars said:
Will definitely follow Guz's advice.

Yes I have marked my backing plates and have rotation. Actually, the paint looks pretty good, just some problem spots with heavier marks in each 2x2 area.

I will wipe with Eraser after Essence. Hope the 16.9 oz bottle is enough, if not I have Griots Paint Prep but it says to rinse with water after applying so if I can avoid that I will.
And thanks for your advise with the Essence wipe off, will do that.
And just to be clear, I should wipe down between compound and Essence?

As far as pictures go, I tried to take some with the defects but hard to tell with the white car, and I'm a crappy photog. I will take one when I'm finished, if the car looks good.

Thanks to all for the help. Time to get to work.
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The reason I mentioned a prep wipe after compounding is to ensure all the lubricating oils are removed from that step and prep it for Essence to do it's thing.

h8dirtycars said:
Ok, the D300 w/ the LC orange worked! There are a very few slight imperfections here and there, but I can live with them, they're that light and I have to really look for them.

I should use a LC white with the Essence?
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Go for it. Use Essence around the entire car and wipe off after you have polished each panel. For example work on half the hood and then wipe that off and move onto the other half. I hope that makes sense. By that amount of time 1 hour should have passed and that is enough time for the SiO2 in it to cure a bit. Then a light prep wipe should do you just fine prior to coating.
 
Will do the in between wipe down.

As far as the Essence goes, wipe off right after it's laid down w/ the machine, or what SWETM says to let dwell for 5-10 minutes?
Also, two pads are enough for the entire car? If not, I'll have to clean and go.

Thanks.
 
Either way works. As I mentioned I have worked and entire area, be it 1/2 a hood, fender, door, etc.. before and then came back to wipe it off.

I have only had issues when I have overworked essence or did not work it enough and I had a spot that was a little difficult to remove. Zipped right over it with the pad and polisher and that worked. Lesson learned from when I was learning how to use essence.
 
h8dirtycars said:
Ok, the D300 w/ the LC orange worked! There are a very few slight imperfections here and there, but I can live with them, they're that light and I have to really look for them.
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Actually that was until I opened the garage door, and the truth telling sun hit the hood in full force. I guess the LED high hats, and my LED flashlight really don't tell the whole story.
I know, if you've been doing this for 30 days or 30 years, you know to inspect in the sunlight for true results.

It still isn't that bad, I guess I'm looking for perfection before I coat. I've done so many passes with the orange pads I'm wondering if hitting it with the MF pads now will mar or damage the paint.

Maybe I'll just use Reload and wax on top of that and call it a day. I'll use the coating for my Lincoln.
 
You mentioned that it's not uniform scratch pattern in a 2'×2'. Is those fewer defects in that area deep defects? Those is called RIDS(random isolated deeper scratches). The scratch pattern or wash indused swirls is often the same all around the car. It's hard to say without any pictures or being there. The RIDS becomes more visual when the swirls are gone too. And as you experienced with the lighting the LED will show you the swirls more and the sun and often halogen lights show the little deeper scratches.

From what distance do you see the defects on the paint that is left when inspecting in the sun? Is it really close or more from 5' away?
Cause sometimes as long as you get the clarity in the paint it's not worth it to chase the RIDS. Since you have to take off to much clearcoat to get them out.

Do you have any micro marring/haze after the d300 and the orange pad? Or is it so that you are satisfied to moving on to LSP? Essence will extend the longevity of reload some too. But the biggest benefit is the gloss that essence provides.

You can seal it up with reload and the wax if you want to. And then take another shot at it later when you have the time to do it. I would skip the wax and apply reload on it's own. Then get Ech2o and mix that in qd dilution 1:20 and ad 1 part reload to that. And use that as a drying aid or after drying to wipe down with.
 
custmsprty said:
You can if you use the right product and technique. This truck was absolutely trashed and was done with FG400, Rupes 15 Gen 1 and LC Orange Pads. One correction step and perfection. Eight hours start to finish.

You left one thing out.....Experience!
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h8dirtycars said:
custmsprty said:
You can if you use the right product and technique. This truck was absolutely trashed and was done with FG400, Rupes 15 Gen 1 and LC Orange Pads. One correction step and perfection. Eight hours start to finish.

You left one thing out.....Experience!
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Wax on, wax off my friend, become one with the polisher and the process. The Zen side of detailing :dblthumb2:
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From what distance do you see the defects on the paint that is left when inspecting in the sun? Is it really close or more from 5' away?
Cause sometimes as long as you get the clarity in the paint it's not worth it to chase the RIDS. Since you have to take off to much clearcoat to get them out.

From 5' away I definitely can't see them. I think I'm probably making myself crazy and comparing my job to those here that have have the experience to totally rid the paint of all defects. That being said, how can a car that was in the showroom be so trashed? That was a rhetorical question. And here's another one, if VW clear coat is so hard,how come it's so easy to jack it up, but so hard to correct it? Just saying.

Do you have any micro marring/haze after the d300 and the orange pad? Or is it so that you are satisfied to moving on to LSP? Essence will extend the longevity of reload some too. But the biggest benefit is the gloss that essence provides.

I don't think there's micro marring, the paint actually looks pretty good after the D300. I think I'm pretty satisfied to move on and lay the Essence down. I'll decide on the the CQUK or Reload after. The only drawback for me would be sealing it again sooner.

You can seal it up with reload and the wax if you want to. And then take another shot at it later when you have the time to do it. I would skip the wax and apply reload on it's own. Then get Ech2o and mix that in qd dilution 1:20 and ad 1 part reload to that. And use that as a drying aid or after drying to wipe down with.

I think your right. I already have that mixture, so that'll be the way to.
Thanks very much for your input.
 
I hear you with how they could trash a paint at the dealership in that extent. Like Mike Phillips says it takes time to get the paint to perfection but only seconds to trash it. That's why it's so important to have your eqiupment and products and technique dialed in to gently take care of that great finish you got. One trip to the swirlomatic car wash and you have another 8 hours of work and a little less clearcoat left.

Even if clearcoats are rock hard as VW or MB or BMW paints useally are. They still scratch easy but a little less than a soft clearcoat and they don't go as deep either. But the difference when it's bigger scratches you have from bigger dirt particals like sand in the wash eqiupment you use or a brush that is scratching the hard clearcoats don't stand up to that. The dealership don't care about that just the cost and time is as low as possible they are satisfied. Then the horror stories I have seen on here that comes new from the dealership is crazy. Hope that sometimes it's begins to the customers just don't exept it's delivered that way and cancel the buy. Cause in some cases the only save would be a repaint IMO. It's takes off to much of clearcoat to be New vehical
 
It's a lesson learned. You never know how bad the paint actually is till you get it home. I thought it wasn't that bad in the showroom, I was wrong. At least it's only a lease. I'm going to finished polishing, and seal it and do that twice a year till it gets returned. Thankfully, my Lincoln wasn't wasn't like that.

Thanks for you're and all the members help who posted.
 
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