So you think you know TAR?

I do take issue that you might even think of me as a "volume, cheap and nasty car cleaner" due to one method I used. Once delivered, the autos in question were as close to perfection as I could get them. EVERY customer was told "If my work does not EXCEED your expectations then it is free". Never was I denied a payment due to dissatisfaction. Does that sound like some hack detailer to you? Good Day sir.
 
I think the bickering aobut A or B is wastfull and not in the good intent and form of this fourm. Im not a MOD, but If I were I wuld cut the crap and name calling.
Point being: Use whatever you wish to use and good for the next guy who has a differing opinion.
As to my questioning duplicolor,, At least I was /am trying to find out from a paint company. Yep it may be a guy with a list of standard replies, However the correct answer may be in that list. Have you ever contacted them for anything? I have and I have always been pleased with the replies I get. There is a benjeman moore paint factory 2 blocks from where I work. Ill see if they will let me talk to a chemist.
 
I got another message back from Duplicolor. Here is the reply. heed it or not I do not care. just putting it out there as a reply from a reputable source :
Scott,
Thank you for contacting Dupli-Color. We appreciate your response.

OEM clear coats are urethane based. DIY applied clear coats can be lacquer, 2 step urethane, enamel, or polyurethane based. All of these different bases will be effect by different solvents. If you are referring to a 2 step urethane you can use lacquer thinner to remove the tar along with elbow grease.
 
beamerstrumpet said:
I got another message back from Duplicolor. Here is the reply. heed it or not I do not care. just putting it out there as a reply from a reputable source :
Scott,
Thank you for contacting Dupli-Color. We appreciate your response.

OEM clear coats are urethane based. DIY applied clear coats can be lacquer, 2 step urethane, enamel, or polyurethane based. All of these different bases will be effect by different solvents. If you are referring to a 2 step urethane you can use lacquer thinner to remove the tar along with elbow grease.
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I've been wanting to take a picture of me kissing a can of lacquer thinner and post it. It would look good in this thread wouldn't it? The stuff works.

I personally would go with the kerosene though just because it's a lot cheaper and works. I think people get a bit hysterical about stuff on these forums. It's not like the car will be bathed for weeks in the stuff. Sprayed on then rubbed and wiped off, then washed, then probably clayed, then polished....does anyone here really think any kerosene would remain after all of that.

Look at the MSDS for Tarminator, read the extreme flammability warnings. That too looks like some fairly dangerous stuff with some pretty harsh solvents in it yet the hysteria about it's use doesn't exists because it's a harsh chemical labeled for sale to melt tar off a car just like kerosene does. As far as I'm concerned it is kerosene and xylene in an aerosol can.

Just my 2 cents as ignorant as they may be.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I personally would go with the kerosene though just because it's a lot cheaper and works. I think people get a bit hysterical about stuff on these forums. It's not like the car will be bathed for weeks in the stuff. Sprayed on then rubbed and wiped off, then washed, then probably clayed, then polished....does anyone here really think any kerosene would remain after all of that.



Amen Dave.:props:
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The point is more that there IS additional risk involved when taking the DIY approach. Whether it is down to the additional flammability, the presence of aromatic hydrocarbons (many being carcinogenic, for one risk) or anything else - that risk exists. Given the level of appreciation of chemical safety, even for dedicated products, it is something a professional just should not be advocating in public.

Ultimately, you are unlikely to do harm with many DIY approaches but where do you draw the line? Dawn will clean and do no harm to your paint whilst being cheap. Brick acid will clean your wheels and do no harm to most finishes and is very cheap. However, each of these would be considered very amateur by most detailers.
 
I don't see our dear chemist suggesting one shouldn't use kerosene. What I do see him saying is to use a the proper grade and purified form, such as what Megs has in their product.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I've been wanting to take a picture of me kissing a can of lacquer thinner and post it. It would look good in this thread wouldn't it? The stuff works.

I personally would go with the kerosene though just because it's a lot cheaper and works. I think people get a bit hysterical about stuff on these forums. It's not like the car will be bathed for weeks in the stuff. Sprayed on then rubbed and wiped off, then washed, then probably clayed, then polished....does anyone here really think any kerosene would remain after all of that.

Look at the MSDS for Tarminator, read the extreme flammability warnings. That too looks like some fairly dangerous stuff with some pretty harsh solvents in it yet the hysteria about it's use doesn't exists because it's a harsh chemical labeled for sale to melt tar off a car just like kerosene does. As far as I'm concerned it is kerosene and xylene in an aerosol can.

Just my 2 cents as ignorant as they may be.
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Good points.... :xyxthumbs:

People can and will get all bent out of shape.... It's the internet after all.....

My take on this is if the so called proper products don't freaking work and they don't MOST of the time in worst situations.......

Then I guess the answer would be just leave it because the products didn't work..... Yeah right that will work great for the customer....... SO what is the customer supposed to do, take it to a body shop and have it sanded down and repainted?

Or we could use lacquer thinner and or kerosene and fix the issue... Why?

BECAUSE THEY WORK...... :dblthumb2:
 
jankerson said:
It's the internet after all.....
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Yeah... reminds me of the other recent thread where the insurance guy said "You're not equipped to handle the job."

Because unlike in the office of the engineers where things look great on the blueprint, out in the real world where the dirty work is carried out, people are sometimes just unwilling to pay for things to be done right.

Gather all your fancy chemicals, figure in all the extra rubbing and scrubbing, sanding and buffing or however you think things should be done the right and "safe way" and present your quote to the customer, then watch as he says "That's ridiculous." "Sam down the road will simply use kerosene and charge half the price, see ya!!"

To each his own though.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Yeah... reminds me of the other recent thread where the insurance guy said "You're not equipped to handle the job."

Because unlike in the office of the engineers where things look great on the blueprint, out in the real world where the dirty work is carried out, people are sometimes just unwilling to pay for things to be done right.

Gather all your fancy chemicals, figure in all the extra rubbing and scrubbing, sanding and buffing or however you think things should be done the right and "safe way" and present your quote to the customer, then watch as he says "That's ridiculous." "Sam down the road will simply use kerosene and charge half the price, see ya!!"

To each his own though.
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Yeah like the guy at the body shop..... LOL

Fix it quick and buff it out and charge for a repaint.... Or maybe just shoot it with clear after hitting it with 5000 grit sandpaper and buffing it out quick..... LOL

"WOW that paint matches great and no over spray" ..... ROFL

If the customer doesn't mind spending thousands of dollars to fix something that could have cost maybe a $100 to $200....

"Sam down the road will simply use kerosene and charge half the price, see ya!!"
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You mean like Jim down the road... ;)

Make like $250 an hour to fix it...... Yeah I will take that easy money any day...

A fool and their money are soon parted.......
 
Russ57 said:
I don't see our dear chemist suggesting one shouldn't use kerosene. What I do see him saying is to use a the proper grade and purified form, such as what Megs has in their product.
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Bingo. The de-aromatised form is less flammable, it is less toxic to humans and it does not contain all the nasty aromatics which do cause damage. As you rightly point out, that is what a good packaged product will use, not the nasty stuff you put in your home heating boiler.
 
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