Some wheel cleaner info...

RippyD

RippyD

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I have compiled some wheel cleaner info into a Google sheet over the past few weeks and wanted to share it. Not an exhaustive list and I'll gladly add to it as requested. I didn't do a lot of searching for MSDS sheets - the ones linked were easy to find. A lot of good info here and on Autopia about wheel cleaners. I wanted a summary for myself. Added pH since some people seem to be concerned about it. I called out hydrofluoric acid and ammonium biflouride where I'm aware of it. If you're using of of these do yourself a favor and do 10 minutes of research.

Thanks to Bob (FUNX650) for making me aware of the hydrogen fluoride hazard in some wheels cleaners. HD 3D, Stoners, and Dodo also do a particularly good job of making SDS sheets available. Some others do so to a lesser degree. Some appear to not share them.

I can make edits as requested or will give you guys edit access if requested. Opening this up to public editing is asking for vandalism and worse.
 
Cool info. Thanks for compiling and sharing.

Good to know my D143 is the most cost effective wheel cleaner. Definitely not the best, but it works.
 
Thanks for taking the time to gather this data, put it into a good format and share it with us. Much appreciated!
 
cay7man said:
What level of ph is good?
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For me there is no good or bad level. I included pH because so many people seem to want "non acid" wheel cleaners. I would probably question a wheel cleaner with a pH below 1.2 or above 13. I'm not sure this is reasonable, just my uninformed reaction.

Consider that lemon juice has a pH of about 2.0. Also consider that most acids and bases can exist at a range of pH levels. A very strong and toxic acid could exist at the same pH as lemon juice. So the pH alone doesn't tell you much.

Drinking a glass of lemon juice at pH 2.0? No problem. Drinking a glass of sulfuric acid at a pH of 2.0? Not so good. I could keep going here but I'll quickly exhaust my knowledge and expose myself as an idiot. Hoping somebody with a firmer grasp of chemistry will help me out.

EDIT: I'll see if I can find a pH curve for a strong acid by concentration (pH change with concentration) and post it. It will tell the story much better, and is cool to see b/c it's kind of counter-intuitive.
 
Looks like I'm going to try Nextzett ColorTec. Has iron remover, reasonable ph (!?!) and not expensive...
 
cay7man said:
Looks like I'm going to try Nextzett ColorTec. Has iron remover, reasonable ph (!?!) and not expensive...
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I have a fair amount of DG to use up. Really want to try Nextzett and 3D BDX.
 
RippyD said:
For me there is no good or bad level. I included pH because so many people seem to want "non acid" wheel cleaners. I would probably question a wheel cleaner with a pH below 1.2 or above 13. I'm not sure this is reasonable, just my uninformed reaction.

Consider that lemon juice has a pH of about 2.0. Also consider that most acids and bases can exist at a range of pH levels. A very strong and toxic acid could exist at the same pH as lemon juice. So the pH alone doesn't tell you much.

Drinking a glass of lemon juice at pH 2.0? No problem. Drinking a glass of sulfuric acid at a pH of 2.0? Not so good. I could keep going here but I'll quickly exhaust my knowledge and expose myself as an idiot. Hoping somebody with a firmer grasp of chemistry will help me out.

EDIT: I'll see if I can find a pH curve for a strong acid by concentration (pH change with concentration) and post it. It will tell the story much better, and is cool to see b/c it's kind of counter-intuitive.
Click to expand...
Thanks for compiling this list, it's very informative!

As for the ph level, it's actually very important and is depending on how you use the it. Lemon juice is safe to drink because our bodies will neutralize it, but if left to sit on an unprotected surface long enough it would etch the surface. Also, if you drink too much lemon juice, your stomach will surely let you know lol. The thing to remember is that a lot of times the "cheaper" wheel cleaners with low ph are using the cheapest harsh acid that they can buy in bulk. The acid quickly eats away any mineral deposits, and leave a great shine. They can work great, but the problem comes when we don't follow the directions - leaving it on too long can be detrimental to your finish. Many think if you leave it on longer, it will clean even better! We are our own worst enemies lol. That's why many prefer the "safer" wheel cleaners. Personally, I use Griot's wheel cleaner. It works great! I know there are many out there just as good or better, but I like it :)

Sent from Autogeek Mobile
 
Interesting it says Wolfgang Uber Wheel Cleaner doesn't have iron remover. That's what I use. Not only does it have a stink similar to any iron remover, the brake dust turns pink/purple just like when I use Iron-X. I'm pretty sure it also claims to be safe on any type of wheels.
 
VETLAG said:
Personally, I use Griot's wheel cleaner. It works great! I know there are many out there just as good or better, but I like it :)

Sent from Autogeek Mobile
Click to expand...


^^ Came here with this in mind. Griot's Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner is what I use on all types of wheels. Works extremely well. Nothing negates the need for a brush of course, but this product makes short order of brake dust, ferrous deposits and wheel dressings. I buy it by the Gal for like $50 or when there are promo's and I'm near empty.
 
pdqgp said:
^^ Came here with this in mind. Griot's Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner is what I use on all types of wheels. Works extremely well. Nothing negates the need for a brush of course, but this product makes short order of brake dust, ferrous deposits and wheel dressings. I buy it by the Gal for like $50 or when there are promo's and I'm near empty.
Click to expand...
I haven't tried the heavy duty yet. Yes, the brush is a must! Good old green Griot's and their $2.99 wheel brush makes my plain ol' wheels on my daily driver look pretty good!

I tried to add a picture but it won't let me...

Sent from Autogeek Mobile
 
VETLAG said:
As for the ph level, it's actually very important and is depending on how you use the it. Lemon juice is safe to drink because our bodies will neutralize it, but if left to sit on an unprotected surface long enough it would etch the surface. Also, if you drink too much lemon juice, your stomach will surely let you know lol. The thing to remember is that a lot of times the "cheaper" wheel cleaners with low ph are using the cheapest harsh acid that they can buy in bulk. The acid quickly eats away any mineral deposits, and leave a great shine. They can work great, but the problem comes when we don't follow the directions - leaving it on too long can be detrimental to your finish. Many think if you leave it on longer, it will clean even better! We are our own worst enemies lol. That's why many prefer the "safer" wheel cleaners. Personally, I use Griot's wheel cleaner. It works great! I know there are many out there just as good or better, but I like it :)
Click to expand...
The assumption seems to be that acids are harmful and bases are not. They can be equally corrosive. There's no reason to think a pH 2.0 acid is more corrosive than a pH 13 base. It depends on what it is and where it's being applied. There seems to be a bit of an acid phobia regarding wheel cleaners.

BSoares said:
Interesting it says Wolfgang Uber Wheel Cleaner doesn't have iron remover. That's what I use. Not only does it have a stink similar to any iron remover, the brake dust turns pink/purple just like when I use Iron-X. I'm pretty sure it also claims to be safe on any type of wheels.
Click to expand...
Good catch - thanks. Spreadsheet corrected. The Wolfgang site doesn't mention iron removal for either wheel cleaner. Just re-read: they imply iron removal for the 3.0 product but don't say it. My bad for missing this.
 
RippyD said:
The assumption seems to be that acids are harmful and bases are not. They can be equally corrosive. There's no reason to think a pH 2.0 acid is more corrosive than a pH 13 base. It depends on what it is and where it's being applied. There seems to be a bit of an acid phobia regarding wheel cleaners.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct, high ph bases are damaging also, I was only referring to the acid debate. When I said people want "safer" cleaners, I should have clarified that I meant ph neutral (5.0 - 9.0 would generally be considered safe). Again, there is nothing wrong with the more aggressive cleaners as long as the directions are followed. As for "acid phobia", it is with good cause. Acid is highly corrosive to metals when improperly used. The boring information below is purely to show why some people have an acid phobia when it comes to their wheels. I personally have the phobia due to a past bad experience years ago - the clear was flaking and the acid cleaner got trapped underneath it, when I rinsed I didn't get it all out and it corroded my aluminum wheels. The wheels on my Corvette were just shy of $5000, so I will spend a little extra time cleaning them with a neutral product and a brush to ensure that I don't pit them. To each their own :)


WARNING - BORING CHEMISTRY TALK BELOW
The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. Substances with a pH of less than 7 are said to be acidic. Vinegar has a pH of 3.5. Human skin has a pH of 4.5 to 6. If the substance has a pH of more than 7, it is basic. Wet cement and lye have a pH of 12 to 13. A neutral substance has a pH of 7. Pure water is pH 7. A pH of 0 is the strongest acid. A pH of 14 is the strongest base. The pH scale is logarithmic. For every whole number increase or decrease, the pH changes 10-fold! The pH of wet cement is one 1 billion times higher than the pH of skin.

Distinguishing characteristics between acids and bases include distinctions made by effects. Acids are chemical compounds that exhibit a sharp, sour taste in water solution. Acids have corrosive action on metals and turn certain blue vegetable dyes red. An acid will turn blue litmus paper red. Bases are chemicals that in solution are soapy, slippery to the touch and turn red vegetable dyes blue. Red litmus paper is turned blue by a base.
 
Thanks for taking the time, and
putting in all of the legwork, in
the compilation and presentation
of a most helpful chart. :props:


Bob
 
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