Sonax Perfect Finish then Polymer Net Shield?

leahcimp

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Can I go directly from PF to PNS without having to use IPA or equivalent to completely remove the polish?

Since they are from the same manufacturer, I am thinking it's not necessary, like Optimum's products.

Anyone have experience with this?

Just trying to cut out an additional process and save time.

Thanks.
Michael
 
I tried using eraser or IPA wipe down before any LSP and it seems to last longer than straight after polish even though within "same family" ^^
 
Yes you can. Netshield is a great product. In fact I liked it better than most retail coatings. I've had mixed results using eraser, and IPA can mar paint if you're not careful. When it comes to sealants, and you're staying in the family...go right from polishing to sealant. Family products are designed to work together.
 
I asked Jerry at DG a similar ? just 2 days ago on using SQC and Enviroshield.

Do I need to panel wipe after SQC before coating? He told me some detailers will last step prep with IPA. That's all I had to hear. Because of durability issues I've had with 3 coatings (posted this on Autopia), I now use Gtechniq's panel wipe product or Wurths (recommend by M. Phillips) prior to a coating. It takes less that 1 min to wipe down a panel. No mixing, no guesswork, no fuss. Being safe is better than being disappointed.
 
I asked Jerry at DG a similar ? just 2 days ago on using SQC and Enviroshield.

Do I need to panel wipe after SQC before coating? He told me some detailers will last step prep with IPA. That's all I had to hear. Because of durability issues I've had with 3 coatings (posted this on Autopia), I now use Gtechniq's panel wipe product or Wurths (recommend by M. Phillips) prior to a coating. It takes less that 1 min to wipe down a panel. No mixing, no guesswork, no fuss. Being safe is better than being disappointed.

:dblthumb2:
 
Can I go directly from PF to PNS without having to use IPA or equivalent to completely remove the polish?

I asked Jerry at DG a similar ? just 2 days ago on using SQC and Enviroshield.

Do I need to panel wipe after SQC before coating? He told me some detailers will last step prep with IPA. That's all I had to hear. Because of durability issues I've had with 3 coatings (posted this on Autopia), I now use Gtechniq's panel wipe product or Wurths (recommend by M. Phillips) prior to a coating. It takes less that 1 min to wipe down a panel. No mixing, no guesswork, no fuss. Being safe is better than being disappointed.
A "panel wipe" does appear to be standard procedure
before Coating applications; however: the OP is going
with Sonax PNS, which is a Sealant.

No need, then, for any "panel wiping"...IMHO.


Bob
 
Imo you should always wipe with Ipa or some kind of prep solvent to clean away left over polishing oils and allow whatever lsp your using to bond better.
 
:dblthumb2:

I asked Jerry at DG a similar ? just 2 days ago on using SQC and Enviroshield.

Do I need to panel wipe after SQC before coating? He told me some detailers will last step prep with IPA. That's all I had to hear. Because of durability issues I've had with 3 coatings (posted this on Autopia), I now use Gtechniq's panel wipe product or Wurths (recommend by M. Phillips) prior to a coating. It takes less that 1 min to wipe down a panel. No mixing, no guesswork, no fuss. Being safe is better than being disappointed.

+1
 
Imo you should always wipe with Ipa or some kind of prep solvent to clean away left over polishing oils and allow whatever lsp your using to bond better.

I share this opinion as well, but I don't know if the science behind this opinion is strong or weak. From what I've read about coatings, this is absolutely the case. From the standpoint of a wax or sealant, at least theoretically it makes sense to have the wax or sealant bond to a pure paint/clearcoat surface, but I don't know.

It'd be a nice test to see someone polish the hood with a polish then split the hood: 1 side IPA, etc. wipe and 1 side no prep. I suppose there could be some differences based on whether the polish is oil-based or water-based.
 
Besides 'Coatings'...(that are stated by their
manufacturers to do so)...
Which other LSPs ever actually "bond" to vehicles' paint
and/or any other vehicle surfaces, as far as that goes?


Bob
 
Well, I feel like I've come across those recommendations before.

For example, check out Collinite's instructions for application of 845.

Only apply to a CLEAN surface; washed, and free of blemishes, discoloration or other imperfections like swirls or scratches. A clean/properly-prepped surface will ease the application/removal process; improving spread and increasing durability of wax’s bond.

http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech845pdf.pdf

I'm sure that chemically this bond is different from the bond that silica has, but there is a bond nevertheless.


Sent into the Ether via Tapatalk 🆒
 
All the feedback and opinions are great. Y'all are awesome. Keep chiming in if you have more to contribute. I'll try it out later today. I'll test one door with a panel wipe, and the other without.

Michael
 
Oh, I also wanted to ask.

The first time I used PF, my LC HT Tang Pad was a little damp (didn't dry completely) and I had a hard time removing PF after 5-6 passes. Smeared quite a bit.

Perhaps a damp pad and too much product?
 
Not sure about perfect finish but I used Sonax premium class paint cleaner right before applying PNS with no issues, I've seen videos by Sonax where they go directly from that paint cleaner polish to Sonax nano coating or Sonax carnauba wax
 
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