Sonax Polymer Net Shield

Sherif-- In your earlier posts you said "spraying 2-3 times on the applicator for each section." This could be what is causing you to have so much difficulty removing PNS. One spray on the applicator should be enough for each section.
 
Sherif-- In your earlier posts you said "spraying 2-3 times on the applicator for each section." This could be what is causing you to have so much difficulty removing PNS. One spray on the applicator should be enough for each section.


I tried one spray per section but I felt it's not enough, maybe the Lake Country coating applicator I used was soaking a lot of product! Btw it's not a good applicator for coatings, almost the same foam wax applicator but in different shape! IMO Optimum dual pro applicator or CarPro suede are much better options for coatings and sealants like PNS..
 
I use a MF applicator when applying PNS. I find it works much better than foam (less drag, more even coat).
 
Same here, I actually found it significantly easier to apply with a microfiber applicator. A lot easier to remove too due to the thinner application.
 
Can this product be applied with a DA polisher? I'm curious whether it would make the difficulty in application a moot point.

I may have missed where someone got back to you on this, but I'd hesitate on applying with a DA--from my experience it cures too quick to do so. Nothing stopping you from experimenting though! :)
 
I use a MF applicator when applying PNS. I find it works much better than foam (less drag, more even coat).

Looks like I have to try this method next time. Thanks for the insight :props:.
 
Looks like I have to try this method next time. Thanks for the insight :props:.

Next time I apply PNS, I'll try using a damp MF applicator. It should make application even easier. Not sure how much it will affect its durability, though.

With experience, applying/removing PNS becomes less of a pita, but it's still not what I'd call a user-friendly product.
 
What I do is prime a MF towel with Sonax BSD, not soak it, just get it damp, then spray PNS on that then wipe on (sometimes on the panel), I call this my wet towel then almost immediately wipe it off with another MF towel, I call this the semi-wet towel, finally buff the area with a dry towel. Works pretty well.
 
I applied PNS to my Jeep a couple of days ago. I used a microfiber applicator that had a very low knap. It was kind of like suede. Depending on the location, I either sprayed it on the panel or the applicator. I then wiped it off with another microfiber towel within 1 minute of application. I did not dampen either the applicator or the towel. It went on and off like a quick detailer/wax type product. In the little time that I have been using it, I have discovered that when people say thin coat, they mean it. I have also found the truth of having quality towels. In the last two weeks I have been cycling out my older OTC towels for house cleaning duties and grime wiping.
Now that I've got my technique down, I love this stuff more and more.
 
I may have missed where someone got back to you on this, but I'd hesitate on applying with a DA--from my experience it cures too quick to do so. Nothing stopping you from experimenting though! :)

No, I hadn't seen a reply to the question. Thanks! I hadn't thought of it curing too quickly.
 
I use the Carpro 4x4 Suede applicators keeping it damp with PNS, wrapped around Carpro Block to apply and the 14x14 Suede to remove . It was tricky for first couple applications . PNS is more then worth getting through the learning curve IMO. My work areas kept growing allot on me when I applied product to the surface , making it harder to remove for me .... Applying it to the applicator gave me the sense of I was controlling how things went . That suede glides crazy easy fellas.
 
Next time I apply PNS, I'll try using a damp MF applicator. It should make application even easier. Not sure how much it will affect its durability, though.

With experience, applying/removing PNS becomes less of a pita, but it's still not what I'd call a user-friendly product.

What I do is prime a MF towel with Sonax BSD, not soak it, just get it damp, then spray PNS on that then wipe on (sometimes on the panel), I call this my wet towel then almost immediately wipe it off with another MF towel, I call this the semi-wet towel, finally buff the area with a dry towel. Works pretty well.


Maybe it's just me, but I can't reconcile the logic of adding anything to a product that isn't there from the manufacturer. Especially water, which is what you're trying to repel. Altering the chemical composition and ratios just doesn't seem like best practice to me.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I can't reconcile the logic of adding anything to a product that isn't there from the manufacturer. Especially water, which is what you're trying to repel. Altering the chemical composition and ratios just doesn't seem like best practice to me.

I understand your thinking. I tend to agree with you. But, we all experiment around here, and sometimes it actually works out for the better. IMO, it's worth a try. If it seriously affects PNS's durability, then all that's lost is some time and a bit of product. When I say a damp applicator, I mean lightly damp (certainly not saturated or dripping wet). Just a little moisture which helps spread the polymers. If it works, it works...if not, no big loss.

Dampening the applicator with BSD shouldn't affect bonding as much as water, but water will likely spread PNS even easier since BSD doesn't spread that easily itself. Plus, its fairly thick consistency makes priming an applicator a bit more difficult than a light spray of water.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I can't reconcile the logic of adding anything to a product that isn't there from the manufacturer. Especially water, which is what you're trying to repel. Altering the chemical composition and ratios just doesn't seem like best practice to me.


I wonder how much difference it really makes. Take Reload for instance. Doesn't Carpro recommend diluting it when working on darker colored vehicles? So instead of diluting it in the bottle using a damp towel should have the same effect. At least that's my thought on all this.
 
I understand your thinking. I tend to agree with you. But, we all experiment around here, and sometimes it actually works out for the better. IMO, it's worth a try. If it seriously affects PNS's durability, then all that's lost is some time and a bit of product. When I say a damp applicator, I mean lightly damp (certainly not saturated or dripping wet). Just a little moisture which helps spread the polymers. If it works, it works...if not, no big loss.

Dampening the applicator with BSD shouldn't affect bonding as much as water, but water will likely spread PNS even easier since BSD doesn't spread that easily itself. Plus, its fairly thick consistency makes priming an applicator a bit more difficult than a light spray of water.

Yeah, the problem I have though is the product we are putting on is already so thin and we are conditioned to use so little that adding water even in small amounts is actually quite a bit in the relative scheme. Plus the initial damp sponge is going to mix with the product in a manner different to the dampness of the sponge at the end of the job. It's harder to control ratios over say, mixing in a bottle.

The other somewhat related point is that by messing with the application, those same folks might just come back in a month or two and gripe about longevity while everyone (including themselves) forgets they were monkeying with the process to begin with.


I wonder how much difference it really makes. Take Reload for instance. Doesn't Carpro recommend diluting it when working on darker colored vehicles? So instead of diluting it in the bottle using a damp towel should have the same effect. At least that's my thought on all this.

If a product is made to be diluted, or the manufacturer recommends it, so be it. That's not a listed best practice for PNS, and given it's exceptionally fast application and removal window, and oily texture when straight from the can, adding other chemicals seems (to me at least) to be a bad idea.

As for Reload, don't you wonder why they tell you to dilute on a dark vehicle but not light? It's all the same clear coat or coating the product is actually touching, right? My guess is if streaking is a problem on black/dark paint, it's also happening on light paint as well. And if diluting that product gives the same longevity as the product neat, then shouldn't you be diluting it for every vehicle to improve your margin?
 
how many applications is everyone getting out of one can?
 
I have done 3 vehicles with my can and the person that gave it to me had done one. I estimate that i still have enough left for 1-3 applications. It's hard to tell since it's aerosol.
 
My can is certainly going further than I originally thought.
 
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