Sonax wheel cleaner - user error or product failure?

Matt said:
I'm going to be honest with you, those wheels don't look very well agitated.

I have a boars hair wheel brush and they certainly aren't up to the task of dealing with thick or stubborn brake dust. I generally do an initial scrub with the boars hair wheel brush then go over it again with a microfiber mitt.

I believe if you agitated it with a sponge or microfiber or even a stiffer bristled brush you'd have much better results.

In the below photo it doesn't look like the brush has even touched the lower part of the brake dust:


Using a better quality brush would definitely return better results
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I basically agree. However, the boar's hair brush does not lack quality, only aggressiveness. The boar's hair brush is only effective at removing light brake dust. You will need a microfiber mitt or I use the Wolfgang foam finger pockets for tough stuff.
Those wheels could be gotten cleaner with some scrubbing, but it looks like that Iron X gel might take care of the little bit left after the wheel is scrubbed.
 
I've never tried Sonax but from what I've read it's a quality product and works pretty well.

From the photos these wheels are some of the worst I've ever seen. That said, some heavy duty cleaners and approach are required and there is a point of no return where the wheel "may" need to be replaced or professionally stripped and restored.

From the photos I think the product was working well it's just up against a mountain of caked on debris some of which may have penetrated the clear.

Your options as I see it:

  1. Use a more aggressive brush and keep scrubbing
  2. Try some IronX paste as Nick's demonstrated
  3. Live with what may remain
  4. Refinish or replace the wheel
By the way, it's not user error or product failure, it's owner failure fro letting those wheels get that bad....
 
Matt said:
I'm going to be honest with you, those wheels don't look very well agitated.

I have a boars hair wheel brush and they certainly aren't up to the task of dealing with thick or stubborn brake dust. I generally do an initial scrub with the boars hair wheel brush then go over it again with a microfiber mitt.

I believe if you agitated it with a sponge or microfiber or even a stiffer bristled brush you'd have much better results.

In the below photo it doesn't look like the brush has even touched the lower part of the brake dust:


Using a better quality brush would definitely return better results
Click to expand...
I tried all methods you suggested, that photo was more of a "cool" shot
 
I use to use Sonax a lot. However, once Iron-x came out I haven't gone back. It's more versatile than the Sonax since it can be used on wheels and paint. Sonax is a great in between cleaner, but just doesn't do it like Iron-X does IMO.

About not getting it on the calipers, I've been using it for about a year and half and have not had any issues with the calipers. I am careful if they are special calipers or painted. I never let it dry and always rinse really well.

Also, BMW has one of the worse brake dust problems I've experienced. I had a set of Mini rims that had never been really cleaned in 3 years. Ended up washing the rims about 5 times (wheel brightner twice and 3 applications of iron-x) in total and I still didn't get everything. Eventually came to the conclusion that it was etched into the painted rims and would have to be repainted. Which BMW actually covered under warranty.
 
SeaJay's said:
Also, BMW has one of the worse brake dust problems I've experienced.
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I've been sealing BMW/Audi/Mercedes wheels with Finish Kare 1000p wax, works better than any other wheel sealant I've tried. Great stuff. A $16 tin will last years!
 
any time you are dealing with a wheel thats never been cleaner properly and left alone to build up the brake dust over the years.... you are not gonna remove all that crap with a single pass or two passes. unless you use something ridiculously strong that's acid based and can potentially do more damage. plus, it's bmw dust which is the worst of the worst.
 
Its important to spray the sonax on a DRY wheel. do NOT presoak the wheel with water first.

Was it sprayed on the wheel dry and given over 5 minutes to dwell ?

Also, from the pictures you posted there is obvious areas that were not agitated at all. The product needs to be agitated very well after setting up for 5 to 7 minutes out of the sun.
 
smack said:
+1. I havent used the Sonax stuff but Megs WB has taken care of every BMW wheel I have done...
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My results with Sonax were nearly identical to the OP's. While it definitey removed most of the gunk, I had to apply it 4 times, yet there was still a whole lot of baked on crud that it didn't touch, even with aggressive agitation. The following week I hit it with Meg's All Wheel and more agitation and everything's gone except for some tar spots.

I won't be going back to Sonax. I'd heard all the great reviews and bought into the myth, but it's just not enough better than Meg's to justify the 3X price premium.
 
Kaban said:
any time you are dealing with a wheel thats never been cleaner properly and left alone to build up the brake dust over the years.... you are not gonna remove all that crap with a single pass or two passes. unless you use something ridiculously strong that's acid based and can potentially do more damage. plus, it's bmw dust which is the worst of the worst.
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Agreed. It took 4 Sonax passes(no pre-rinse, 5-7 min soaking plus agitation) and one Meg's pass to get my i30's wheels clean.
 
bmwgalore said:
I've been sealing BMW/Audi/Mercedes wheels with Finish Kare 1000p wax, works better than any other wheel sealant I've tried. Great stuff. A $16 tin will last years!
Click to expand...

Have you compared the Finish Kare 1000P to Armor All Wheel Protectant? I'm pretty impressed with AAWP performance so far.
 
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