Specific Material Usages (Advice Requested)

[Mfoehrkolb]

I had a few question's on what certain materials can be used for, and when to use them exactly. I tried researching, but most of the "senior" members use abbreviations of products and product type, and i simply have not got all of them down yet

I purchased a few things from here and there just last week, but 3 specific items i purchased from autogeek were:


Wolfgang Auto Bathe; as my lubricant in my wetsanding water.
Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe Waterless Wash; just to wipe down dust that has settled. (Not a fan of this as of now, seems to let a oily residue behind)
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine; as clay lube, and pad conditioner. (Holy crap i love the way this smells!!!! Makes me want to drink it)


Purple Power; my APC w/ varied mix ratios. Pad cleaner overnight, and rinse in the AM.


Now the questions.

Car wash; was planning on using - Meguiar's Deep Crustal Wash or PBSS?
What else can Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine be used for?
What else can PB's Spray & Wipe be used for?
What should i use AFTER the wetsanding to wash to clean panel so no contamination?
What should i use AFTER each compounding step/polishing step to clean so no contamination? (This might be the same as the above question)
Purple Power, safe to remove TOGW ? Mixed 1:1

Most customers cars will be either spot panel repaired (painting), or overall paint jobs. When customer's bring me the car though, it's generally a mess. As a painter, my biggest fear is oils/silicons, that will be resistant to removal even after i use my wax/tar/etc remover and will cause fish eyes.

What do you suggest i use to remove all contaminants from the surface. APC maybe?
What mixing ratios of Purple Power for what job?
Full Strength = Something really dirty
1:1 = TOGW Removal
1:2 = Interior?
etc etc.

Besides for that, what other products would you recommend?
Tire Cleaner: Purple Power
Tire Shine:
Wheel Cleaner:
Wheel Protection w/ High Gloss:
Interior Protection w/ High Gloss: Armor-all? Or is there "better".
Best glass cleaner (interior)?
Best glass cleaner w/ repellent? (My windshield wipers don't work and this RainX doesn't last long)
Wax Stripper:
Sealer:
Wax:
Clay Bar Preference:


I do/would be using most of this stuff pretty often so i like purchasing in larger sized portion's to keep it cost effective. So i don't care for brands really, just want performs, and if i can keep 1 product and have it do multiple things. That can save money and simplify a bunch too.

Function>Form - Best format i would think is to just "quote" and bold in your answers next to my questions. Sorry for making this lengthy, just easier to make one post. Thanks for your reading time, and advice!

EDIT: Like to add, if some of this has been covered. I tried searching, just acronyms i do not know. Also i find this site quite hard to navigate.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I had a few question's on what certain materials can be used for, and when to use them exactly. I tried researching, but most of the "senior" members use abbreviations of products and product type, and i simply have not got all of them down yet

People tend to use acronyms for a host of different reasons, my guess is to reduce how many words a person has to type out... I tend to just type out all the words because I know not every member or ever lurker knows all the acyrnoms...

I purchased a few things from here and there just last week, but 3 specific items i purchased from autogeek were:


Wolfgang Auto Bathe; as my lubricant in my wetsanding water.

What are you wetsanding?


Your own car or customer's cars? All the time or once in a while?

 

[mwoolfso]

I had a few question's on what certain materials can be used for, and when to use them exactly. I tried researching, but most of the "senior" members use abbreviations of products and product type, and i simply have not got all of them down yet Try this.... ***UPDATED*** Acronym list - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum

I purchased a few things from here and there just last week, but 3 specific items i purchased from autogeek were:


Wolfgang Auto Bathe; as my lubricant in my wetsanding water.
Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe Waterless Wash; just to wipe down dust that has settled. (Not a fan of this as of now, seems to let a oily residue behind)
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine; as clay lube, and pad conditioner. (Holy crap i love the way this smells!!!! Makes me want to drink it)


Purple Power; my APC w/ varied mix ratios. Pad cleaner overnight, and rinse in the AM.


Now the questions.

Car wash; was planning on using - Meguiar's Deep Crustal Wash or PBSS? I don't know what PBSS is but you can mention just about any "wash" product and you will find someone in this forum that uses it. There are different products for different types of washes. For now I will assume you either know what they are or future questions below will help you.
What else can Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine be used for? Rinseless Wash, Clay Lube, Quick Detailer are the traditional approaches. Some folks will add a small amount of ONR to their wash water (in addition to the soap) to soften the water.
What else can PB's Spray & Wipe be used for? The directions on the bottle will tell you. I have never used this product but the title seems to indicate Waterless Wash and Quick Detailer.
What should i use AFTER the wetsanding to wash to clean panel so no contamination? Your PB and ONR as a QD will work just fine.
What should i use AFTER each compounding step/polishing step to clean so no contamination? (This might be the same as the above question) Probably nothing if I understand the question properly. After a good wipe-off of a compound you can go right to polishing and then to jeweling (if you want).
Purple Power, safe to remove TOGW ? Mixed 1:1 Use the directions on the product label where I am sure they will have dilution ratios. You can probably move away from those ratios a bit depending on the circumstance and as you gain experience.

Most customers cars will be either spot panel repaired (painting), or overall paint jobs. When customer's bring me the car though, it's generally a mess. As a painter, my biggest fear is oils/silicons, that will be resistant to removal even after i use my wax/tar/etc remover and will cause fish eyes.

What do you suggest i use to remove all contaminants from the surface. APC maybe?
What mixing ratios of Purple Power for what job? Some wash products at a high dilution (relative to the product) will strip the surface. Some folks here will also use Dawn Ultra and a little APC in a washing step to strip paint. Others will use Mineral Spirits, Klean Strip Prep-all, etc....
Full Strength = Something really dirty
1:1 = TOGW Removal
1:2 = Interior?
etc etc.

Besides for that, what other products would you recommend?
Tire Cleaner: Purple Power (I use APC as well)
Tire Shine: CarPro PERL @ 2:1 or 1:1 (layered)
Wheel Cleaner: I use APC
Wheel Protection w/ High Gloss: Any protection product that has gloss properties. I think I have some Armor All Hot Shine in my inventory.
Interior Protection w/ High Gloss: Armor-all? Or is there "better". Armor all is OK I guess.
Best glass cleaner (interior)? Invisible Glass, Sprayway or Megs Glass Cleaner are in my inventory.
Best glass cleaner w/ repellent? (My windshield wipers don't work and this RainX doesn't last long) Have you ever clayed and polished glass? The better the surface, the better any wipers will perform. Look-up some articles on Ceriglass and Diamondite and you will get an idea.
Wax Stripper: Already discussed...
Sealer: I use Mothers Micro Polish and Glaze (their Step 2) and BFWD
Wax: Pick your poison...
Clay Bar Preference: I use Mothers, Megs and Wolfgang.


I do/would be using most of this stuff pretty often so i like purchasing in larger sized portion's to keep it cost effective. So i don't care for brands really, just want performs, and if i can keep 1 product and have it do multiple things. That can save money and simplify a bunch too.

Function>Form - Best format i would think is to just "quote" and bold in your answers next to my questions. Sorry for making this lengthy, just easier to make one post. Thanks for your reading time, and advice!

EDIT: Like to add, if some of this has been covered. I tried searching, just acronyms i do not know. Also i find this site quite hard to navigate. Continue to immerse yourself in the site and after some time navigation won't be a problem.

See above

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Now the questions.

Car wash; was planning on using - Meguiar's Deep Crustal Wash or PBSS?

They both work, what's the question?

What else can Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine be used for?

Wash lubricant, add to normal car wash.
Clay Lube
Spray Detailer
Rinseless Wash
Waterless Wash

What else can PB's Spray & Wipe be used for?

Spray Detailer
Waterless Wash - use heavy i.e. use a lot... same goes for all "spray detailers"

What should i use AFTER the wetsanding to wash to clean panel so no contamination?

Define contaminanion?

What is your next step? Compounding? If so, what you wash with is a non-issue as the compounding is going to remove paint and any thing you deem as a contaminant from the wash solution.

What should i use AFTER each compounding step/polishing step to clean so no contamination? (This might be the same as the above question)
Purple Power, safe to remove TOGW Mixed 1:1

I don't wash cars normally after compounding I go to the next step. But if you choose to wash after compounding, any polish will remove paint and thus remove anything you deem a contaminant from the wash solution.

Most customers cars will be either spot panel repaired (painting), or overall paint jobs. When customer's bring me the car though, it's generally a mess. As a painter, my biggest fear is oils/silicons, that will be resistant to removal even after i use my wax/tar/etc remover and will cause fish eyes.

The other shoe drops... I should have read down the thread further to find out you're a "painter" before posting my above answers.

If you're doing paint work then you should be using products that state, "Body Shop Safe". For the kind of washing you're doing a dish soap would should work.

What do you suggest i use to remove all contaminants from the surface. APC maybe?
What mixing ratios of Purple Power for what job?
Full Strength = Something really dirty
1:1 = TOGW Removal
1:2 = Interior?
etc etc.

Might want to check the Purple Power website to see if they already have directions for dilution levels for your type of work. Most detergent and APC's should remove "most" topical waxes but keep in mind, over the last 20+ years a lot of "Car Waxes", even Joe Consumer stuff touts being detergent resistant.

Also i find this site quite hard to navigate.

Most forums have a hierchy of "forum groups" and these groups are catagorized by topics. On a really good forum the Moderators "move threads" from one group to the appropriate group when members post their threads in the wrong place, that helps to keep the groups on topic.

If you're new to forums it takes a while to get the hang of them... here's a tip though that will help you to get better answers faster...


A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread

How to write a good title for your thread

 

[Hoytman]

If you use Purple Power apc please make sure it is their "automotive apc" and NOT their Industrial degreaser found at many autoparts stores and Wal-Mart.

Purple Power does make and automotive apc. Please read the following link before using Purple Power Industrial Degreaser on wheels and paint... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/49210-purple-power-degreaser.html ...and then make sure you understand the difference between their products.

Purple Power makes good products, but you need to use the correct products for the task at hand.

 

[Mfoehrkolb]

See above

--- When i say my windshield wiper do not work, i mean they literally do NOT work. As in, they never move.

PBSS - Poorboy's World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash 1 Gallon

They both work, what's the question?
- Wasn't sure if one was preferred over the other. The Meguiar's is readily available locally, only reason why it's on the list. The stuff i used to use is no longer available locally, and i am just about out.


Define contaminanion?
- Contamination as is, compound that isn't picked up after wiping and transferring onto my least aggressive pads/materiel's being used.

What is your next step? Compounding? If so, what you wash with is a non-issue as the compounding is going to remove paint and any thing you deem as a contaminant from the wash solution.
- Same thing as above, contamination of more aggressive product onto a least aggressive pad/product.

What should i use AFTER each compounding step/polishing step to clean so no contamination? (This might be the same as the above question)
Purple Power, safe to remove TOGW Mixed 1:1

I don't wash cars normally after compounding I go to the next step. But if you choose to wash after compounding, any polish will remove paint and thus remove anything you deem a contaminant from the wash solution.
- Same as above. Should have specified what i meant when i used contamination.


The other shoe drops... I should have read down the thread further to find out you're a "painter" before posting my above answers.

If you're doing paint work then you should be using products that state, "Body Shop Safe". For the kind of washing you're doing a dish soap would should work.
- I did normally use dish soap for this, but i swore when doing some research. I read on this forum and i quote "keep the dish soap for the dishes." Wasn't too sure if the auto wash would do the same for stripping/cleaning like the dish soap would do. Silicon's are quite a turd to get removed out of porous materials.


Might want to check the Purple Power website to see if they already have directions for dilution levels for your type of work. Most detergent and APC's should remove "most" topical waxes but keep in mind, over the last 20+ years a lot of "Car Waxes", even Joe Consumer stuff touts being detergent resistant.
- I never took notice to the dilution levels on the label, that would be my mistake.

Most forums have a hierchy of "forum groups" and these groups are catagorized by topics. On a really good forum the Moderators "move threads" from one group to the appropriate group when members post their threads in the wrong place, that helps to keep the groups on topic.

If you're new to forums it takes a while to get the hang of them... here's a tip though that will help you to get better answers faster...
- Def. not new to forums in general, just this one. I don't know what it is though... Just seems so "everywhere". I'll adjust none the less.

--- Have you ever had problems with PB spray and wipe leaving an "oily" residue behind? I might just keep it simple and use the Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine as a detailer, clay lube, and pad conditioner.

If you use Purple Power apc please make sure it is their "automotive apc" and NOT their Industrial degreaser found at many autoparts stores and Wal-Mart.

Purple Power does make and automotive apc. Please read the following link before using Purple Power Industrial Degreaser on wheels and paint... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/49210-purple-power-degreaser.html ...and then make sure you understand the difference between their products.

Purple Power makes good products, but you need to use the correct products for the task at hand.

--- I always used the industrial degreaser, since it's readily available locally, and it's quite cheap when you buy it in the huge pails. I was trying to do research but it seems alot of people use it on everything, and other say no no to using it.

I also use this as my pad cleaner when i let the pads soak overnight, i really like to keep inventory simple with multiple uses if possible.

I used it on paint before to remove certain things, but... i never had a problem personally on a clear coated panel. I did use it to degrease an engine bay before sanding and prepping the bay... It actually removed the none cleared base coat that was in the bay. Was no big deal because the customer was having me repaint it. I will do some more research though after the information provided to see if i can find something around the same price per oz of product.

 

[Hoytman]

Just know that if you or anyone else uses the Industrial Purple Power on paint, that the manufacturer does not endorse it for that purpose. That was my main point to get across. After all, the title of this thread is "Specific Material Usages."

Just be careful, that's all.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The above is one reason to only ask a few questions in any single post and that's because it takes some surgical editing to properly use the quote function and when not done properly it gets kind of messy... no big deal, just saying... my article on tips for writhing a good thread is based off of almost a decade of answering questions on forums.

They both work, what's the question?

- Wasn't sure if one was preferred over the other. The Meguiar's is readily available locally, only reason why it's on the list. The stuff i used to use is no longer available locally, and i am just about out.

I "think" the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Wash is body shop safe, I have a thread on MOL about this somewhere but not sure where. Trying to sneak a lunch break in I'll Google it afterwards. Meguiar's use to offer #00 and it WAS Body Shop Safe, it was discontinued due to low sales volume and a lot of purist are sad to see it gone.

Define contamination?

- Contamination as is, compound that isn't picked up after wiping and transferring onto my least aggressive pads/materiel's being used.

Gotcha... I wasn't playing the role of smarty pants it's just lots of people on forums from lots of backgrounds so I wanted to find out specifically.

In my book, it's vitally important to work surgically clean, ESPECIALLY for the last machine applied polishing step and ESPECIALLY if the goal is a show car finish.

I still don't wash cars after compounding if I don't "need" to so that means I do a GREAT job of wiping all residue off panels and even open doors, hoods, trunk lids ect. and wipe any residual residues off edges so they cannot be swept or pulled back into the buffing process where they can cause swirls or make you work backwards.

What is your next step? Compounding? If so, what you wash with is a non-issue as the compounding is going to remove paint and any thing you deem as a contaminant from the wash solution.

- Same thing as above, contamination of more aggressive product onto a least aggressive pad/product.

My answer would be the same then. As an option, instead of re-washing the car, (time consuming and gets everything wet), you can wipe the panels down with some type of liquid spray.

Spray detailer
IPA
MS
Eraser

Etc.

See my below article below as it lists a number of products to wipe panels with...

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I think I have an article for everything...

How to use the "Editor Mode" to break a single quoted message up into smaller quoted sections


:laughing:

 

[Mfoehrkolb]

Just know that if you or anyone else uses the Industrial Purple Power on paint, that the manufacturer does not endorse it for that purpose. That was my main point to get across. After all, the title of this thread is "Specific Material Usages."

Just be careful, that's all.

--- Yeah i understand the no paint thing. I know it's strong stuff, and they have to be able to cover their own backs as a business. I will be sure to not use it on a panel that isn't being repainted. Everything else will just get my Dupont Prep-sol 3919s, if it requires.

I "think" the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Wash is body shop safe, I have a thread on MOL about this somewhere but not sure where. Trying to sneak a lunch break in I'll Google it afterwards. Meguiar's use to offer #00 and it WAS Body Shop Safe, it was discontinued due to low sales volume and a lot of purist are sad to see it gone.
- I think locally it's like 6$ for 64oz container, and 2oz for 2 gallons of water (I also get 20% off!). It doesn't say it has any type of waxes or additives that i would have to worry about. I'll try that out though, it should be fine on my personal cars too. Just when it's time to wash and detail the car. I don't personally think the "additives" of wax etc would really make a huge difference in the finish in just the soap step. I could be wrong though.


Gotcha... I wasn't playing the role of smarty pants it's just lots of people on forums from lots of backgrounds so I wanted to find out specifically.
- I didn't think you were being a smarty pants I am pretty sure the guy this section is named after, is going to troll my thread lol.


In my book, it's vitally important to work surgically clean, ESPECIALLY for the last machine applied polishing step and ESPECIALLY if the goal is a show car finish.
I still don't wash cars after compounding if I don't "need" to so that means I do a GREAT job of wiping all residue off panels and even open doors, hoods, trunk lids ect. and wipe any residual residues off edges so they cannot be swept or pulled back into the buffing process where they can cause swirls or make you work backwards.
My answer would be the same then. As an option, instead of re-washing the car, (time consuming and gets everything wet), you can wipe the panels down with some type of liquid spray.

Spray detailer
IPA
MS
Eraser

- Thanks again, i will be sure to use one of the methods listed. I could just use my Dupont Prep-sol 3919s to also clean off old residue of the waxes/silicons/fillers that might be on the panel for the final inspection. Dupont Prep-sol 3919s smells like straight up kerosene to me, not sure whats exactly in it though, it seems to have a oily feel on the fingers, but def. doesn't leave an oil residue behind. That's quite expensive per gallon though, so i might use the IPA method, and save my 3919s for pre paint panel prepping. <--- sweet alliteration.

I sure do love the smell of the no wash i purchased, and it's pretty cheap for what i can use it for. So i will probably use that to clean the panels after each product step.

--- Not sure if you missed above. Have you had any problems before with the PB spray and wash leaving a residue behind after the initial wipe away of product. I used it for the first time the other day and it's like someone rubbed their greasy head across the panel lol. I had to take 2 microfibers over it to remove the residue.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

--- Not sure if you missed above. Have you had any problems before with the PB spray and wash leaving a residue behind after the initial wipe away of product.

Haven't actually used that product that I know of, I'll see if I have some opened in my inventory and test it out on one of my black paint panels.

 

[Mfoehrkolb]

Sounds like a plan. PM me or post back on here to let me know if you would.