Speed recommendations Makita PO6000C or 5000C using 3M Polish and Pads

It will start to clear up a bit when it is breaking down.

You always want to keep a polish wet. If you start buffing dry, lubrication is lost and marring may occur. So that is valid with ANY polishing method!

Honestly UF is so fine that it won't do damage if underworked. But just follow basic polishing methods and that is a non-issue! Now that question being asked, your at the point of overthinking it. Get out there and give it a go and have some fun doing so! Looking forward to your results.
 
Dr Oldz said:
It will start to clear up a bit when it is breaking down.

You always want to keep a polish wet. If you start buffing dry, lubrication is lost and marring may occur. So that is valid with ANY polishing method!

Honestly UF is so fine that it won't do damage if underworked. But just follow basic polishing methods and that is a non-issue! Now that question being asked, your at the point of overthinking it. Get out there and give it a go and have some fun doing so! Looking forward to your results.
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Thanks so much Jim
Apologies for all my questions, partially because I am recovering from a nasty back Operation, so using this convalescent time to order in all the kit I need.
Very frustrationg not being able to get out there and just try a few concepts.

Thanks to your help I wont be sending the Ultrafina Se and pads back , but will give it a go! :)
Peter
 
Submariner said:
In the latest range Perfect it III there is a yellow Extra Fine Plus Polish ... generally their finest to finish on most cars, and then there is this Blue topped Ultrafina SE , that is supposed to be the absolute gentlest normally reserved only for black cars to remove holograms .
Hence my confusion as to how it clogged up a pad and produced such mwful marring.

I really appreciate you clarifying the mix up.
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No problem,I have no problem admitting being wrong,Its just embarrassing a little but oh well,such is life

I am going to try some of Dr Oldz suggestions though and see if I can get them to work for me
 
Farmallluvr said:
No problem,I have no problem admitting being wrong,Its just embarrassing a little but oh well,such is life

I am going to try some of Dr Oldz suggestions though and see if I can get them to work for me
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Thanks easily done.

Interestingly I phoned 3M UK Technical today and queried, if this had diminishing abraisives and he confirmed they were NOT diminishing ... despite me asking why the instructions said start with medium pressure and after 2 or 3 passes lighten the pressure to achieve a maximum gloss.
He said the extra pressure was only to provide more cut to remove light swirl marks and the lighter ( machine weight only ) pressure then glossed out the holograms.
Hmmmm?

I also asked again, does this have fillers? and he guarranteed No fillers. He said you cant have silicone fillers in a professional bodyshop.

When pressed about working with DA Polishers, he said he didn't recommend, nor did he see a problem using a DA Polisher, but said the best finish was tested using a Rotary Polisher.

I then asked him would it be better to have it in DA mode or DA and Forced Rotation, he suggested I might as a novice be better in DA mode!

He also said he was sure, if I was using their Ultrafina Blue pad; that I could not worsen the Mercedes std. paint finish, i.e. I wouldn't induce marring or swirls unless my pad was dirty or I hadnt clayed the panel properly.

I would be interested to see what you ( as an experienced polisher ) manage to achieve, if you use their blue pad and a DA.

What DA do you have if I may ask is it a forced rotation one?

I did put on the blue pad in forced mode at level 5 on the PO6000C ... circa 780 rpm; and touching it with my finger there was quite a lot of pull generated by the pad rotating.

Oddly 3M Literature specifies to put this polish on the vehicle’s panel, with no mention of priming the pad first.
I think I might prime the pad for safetys sake :-/
 
One thing to remember about these 3M products is the are geared towards body shops. So their advice may be a bit off from what is detailer standard. The blue waffle pads are fantastic on the rotary but I still would suggest a flat pad style for your machine.
 
Dr Oldz said:
One thing to remember about these 3M products is the are geared towards body shops. So their advice may be a bit off from what is detailer standard. The blue waffle pads are fantastic on the rotary but I still would suggest a flat pad style for your machine.
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I am looking for that LC flat pad you recommended in the UK.
I also don't like the fact that the 3M blue 150mm pad has an overlap of only about 2mm, seems a bit of a risk one could catch that backing plate edge. And the backing loop stuff is a fair bit short of 150mm :-/
the LC makes them in 6.5” so hopefully that is a better fit.
Looks to me like the blue 3M needs the 5” Makita backing plate! And thats not sold in the UK, extortionate import charges from the States.
Luckily it is sold in Germany :) so need to call them tommorow .

I already ordered a Flat Rupes Ultra Fine Foam pad that is about 7” to lay down the wax. That has plenty of overlap and the velcro is 6”
 
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