Speedy Prep towel (fine grade) and the "baggie test"...read before buying!

[57BORNTORUN]

We have been using the towels and pads for awhile in the autogeek garage.It`s a time issue and it`s on Max`s dime.:buffing:

 

[GenesisCoupe]

Keep in mind, too, the state of that donor car before you throw in the towel. I wasn't surprised at the results of the baggie test. If we had the time, I would have Iron X'd it, as well.

With the state of the donor car we SHOULD have used a medium grade towel and i bet that would have given the same results as after the clay; especially since we were going correction on it.

I use the speedy prep towel for my business as it is faster than clay and does the job really well. Does the customer know that there is still a little bit of contaminants left in the paint? NOPE.

I will still have my traditional claybar, but for 80% of my jobs the speedy prep towel it is.

 

[stephent007]

So I bought the Speedy Prep towel during the Christmas sale and have used it a couple times but this past weekend we had our Chicagoland Detail Day and learned something! What I learned was to do the "baggie test"! Now I should've known better but I've always blown off this test. I used the Speedy Prep towel on our donor car and could hear the grit and heard it smooth out, so I thought I was good to go, that was until Paul (2old2change) asked me if I had done the "baggie test" and said, what the heck, let's see what this is all about. To my surprises the grit was there when doing the "baggie test" but to the bare hand it was smooth, what the heck!! The next day I clayed my car, rewashed and applied a coat of AW, much better!

So here's my question, what the hell do I do with a $60.00 towel that was supposed to replace clay? Should I have gotten a medium grade? I was thinking to use the Speedy Prep towel as part of maintence now, seeing as I do rinseless washes maybe I should just do a quick wipe every wash or maybe once a week, what's your thoughts guys/gals? Feel free to have at it with this one, could save someone a lot of money as these towels aren't cheap, they are convienent but not a replacement for clay IMO!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

Sorry, could you clarify something for me? After using the prep towel, the paint didnt pass the baggie test. Then:

1. Did you use the prep towel again and couldnt get the paint to pass the baggie test. But when you switched to clay the paint passed the test? Or

2 Did you switch to clay right away and got the paint to pass the test?

 

[kevincwelch]

I was initially disappointed in the Nanoskin sponge since I used it on my cars. I thought that since my Tesla was fairly new that a fine grade sponge would do the trick. After using it with some lube, it felt smooth. But after the baggie test, it obviously was not. Claying got rid of the rest. This was even after using iron x.

I thought I'd give the wash mitt a try and also got the fine grade. I had the same issue when using it with the Nanoskin bubble bath. Residual contaminants left behind when I used the baggie test.

Possible explanations:
1. I mistakenly thought a fine grade would suffice but I really needed a medium grade pad
2. Too much lube
3. Didn't wipe thoroughly enough or lacked appropriate elbow grease
4. Clay is actually better than the Nanoskin

I'm going to give the wash mitt another try when I do my summer corrections on both cars. If it doesn't pass the test again, I'll go back to clay rather than fork over more money for a medium grade nanoskin.

 

[Tato]

I use the nanoskin products but clay as well.

Generally, if paint has contaminants like overspray that can be 'shaved away' I tend to get nanoskin. When working on light colors (like white, yellow), and contamination looks embedded to paint, like grease, tree sap, oily, road film, I may get the clay to 'stick to those elements'.

Simple test, try nanoskin on impregnated tree sap. 4-5 passes and nothing yet? Hard to 'shave' that thing out, the more you pass, more it looks to stick.

Get the clay, and then tell how easy that sap went away.

Get a large area of overspray. Shave it with nanoskin. Fast? Now, clay that roof with the clay bar and you are about to spend at least an hour on task if overspray sticked hard.

I'm not 'the flash', but in some minutes you can nanoskin a car. At the end, the level of effectiveness is enough to most standards. To polish afterwards, results are pretty decent IMO.

For general use, it's difficult to determine which type of contaminants are predominant in every car, so in an 'ideal word', we should do both, maybe nanoskin to 'shave' first, clay to get embedded after.

Will someone pay you enough for this kind of specific decontamination? Maybe. But I risk saying mostly not everyone will.

What nanoskin won't remove it's likely polishing afterwards will, and embedded grime is not likely to cause marring like embedded particles would. In the worst scenario, I see you having to switch pads more often.

Just my 0.02$

 

[Grifffx4]

I got the same result with the fine grade sponge on my glass. I could see it wasn't getting the tree sap off. Rather it was smearing it. However, it took Plasti Dip overspray off very nicely.


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[parttimer]

I think I am going to switch up to a medium grade pad. The fine works well but I would like to work faster! I am going to polish the paint so I am not worried about marring.

 

[2old2change]

Tato
What nanoskin won't remove it's likely polishing afterwards will, and embedded grime is not likely to cause marring like embedded particles would. In the worst scenario, I see you having to switch pads more often

Check out Mike Phillips thread. He addresses what a foam pad and a wool pad will or won't remove as far as above surface contaminates.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...echanically-decontaminate-your-car-s-paint.ht

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

...and this is all because of the "baggie test" because to the human, bare hand its smooth as hell when using the fine grade, crazy!

And the CORRECT way to teach someone the baggie test is to FIRST have them feel the paint with their clean, bare hand.

Then have them do the baggie test. It's by doing it in this order that the lesson is learned and the most impact is made.

Now get this... I shared the baggie test in two episodes of "My Classic Car" with Dennis Gage. One on glass for a glass polishing how-to segment and one on paint for a paint polishing segment.

For the huge viewership this show gets and the number of times these segments repeat, my hunch is you're going to see a lot of "Car Guys", you know, the kind of guys that watch shows like "My Classic Car", all going out to their garage and doing the baggie test on their "blank".

And then showing their car buddies what they learned and on it will go. I expect the baggie test to be mainstream in the next year or so.

How did the "baggie test" come to be and why does it work?

I hope everyone reading this knows my reputation as a person that always gives due credit where credit is due.

I NEVER steal other guys information or techniques and share them with the world without giving them due credit. I know most other guys don't seem to practice this at least I see a lot of my info and techniques all over the blogosphere with nary a mention of my name. Hey, an honest man's pillow is his peace of mind.

Anywho, I don't remember anyone showing me the actual baggie test. I remember people over a decade or more ago showing me this test using the cellophane off a pack of cigarettes but I found the cellophane, while it works well to be too rigid and scratchy. So I started using sandwich baggies. They are more pliable and inexpensive.

Just to note, I always hand each person in my detailing classes their own baggie for hygiene reasons. I don't make people pass around a baggie or two for everyone to put their hand into.

I originally learned of the " baggie test " from Mike Phillips about 2005-6 at a Meguiar's Road Show in Indianapolis . Mike may be able to supply more info.

See my answer above....

My guess to why it works is the plastic acts as a membrane so to speak that magnifies the feeling compared to the bare hand.

That's exactly how it works. It increase the humans ability to feel with their sense of touch.

I have discovered the thinner the bag the better it reads the surface.

And on Paul's note, here's an example of giving due credit where credit is due....

This article was posted to the Internet on 10-26-2012, 09:05 AM


Baggie Test Tip from Paul aka 2old2change


Here's a tip from my buddy Paul aka 2old2change that I use all the time. That is, when doing the Baggie Test to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants, purchase and use thin sandwich baggies, not the thicker style common to premium styles like the zip-lock type of sandwich baggies.

The thinner plastic works better to reveal contaminants on the surface better than thicker plastic. A simple tip that really does make a big difference.


Paul even sent me a box of some very inexpensive, Plain-Jane sandwich baggies to use in the studio... thanks Paul!

These are Kroger brand regular sandwich bags

Use the right tool for the job and all that...


Sometimes the little things are the big things...



__________________

 

[swanicyouth]

I always do a "test spot" when I clay via baggy test. I keep the little baggy in my pocket and spot test as I go along on the areas I know are the most contaminated (rocker panels, etc...) If not, you can clay a whole car and not get all the gunk off.

But I'm not using clay, I'm using a Chemical Guy's Clay Block (substitute).

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

To my surprises the grit was there when doing the "baggie test"

My experience is very different in that the Nanosking products work better than clay. Not sure if there's a difference between the Speedy Prep Towels and the Nanoskin Towels they are similar type products.


Keep in mind, contaminants are different. There's a difference between tree sap mist bumps on your car's paint and epoxy overspray bumps on your paint. If this was your first time using a towel then it could also be technique and just spending more time with the product.


There are different grades of these products just like there are different grades for clay too...


I wouldn't give up just yet. Also, I think there will always be a place for clay in your tool box I still use clay all the time.

For this project we used,

• Detailing Clay
• Nanoskin Towels
• Nanoskin Pads

1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Extreme Makeover - Pictures & Videos

 

[FUNX650]

RE: Paul David Miller...

Bob

 

[zmcgovern45]

One more thing to keep in mind is that it is spring time, and here in the midwest, that means pollen and dust!!

The reason I bring this up is because I was recently working on my own vehicle and had a bit of a scare... I washed my car, ironx, rinse, then 'clayed' with my nanoskin fine grade mitt to remove the very light contamination that had built up in areas. In just 15 minutes or so I had gone around the entire car with my mitt and the entire vehicle was smooth to the touch and I felt/heard no contamination while gliding the mitt across the surface. I then proceeded to do another quick wash/wipe down and then dried the car.

I then pulled it into the garage, shined up the tires and what not, and then decided to pull out a baggie to check my decon results. This was roughly 10-15 minutes after I had finished drying the car, and the paint felt like sandpaper!! Confused at my results, I grabbed another baggie because certainly my paint was not that contaminated. Same results.

Upon closer inspection, my hood already had a nice layer of pollen forming. I grabbed some CarPro Eraser and wiped down about half of my hood, then slid my baggie from the 'clean' side to the pollen side... this made it clear that the pollen was indeed the culprit and was creating a gritty feeling that mimicked bonded contamination.

Just something to keep in mind for those of us who do not have the luxury of working in an enclosed shop environment

 

[2old2change]

Great tip ^^

 

[Klasse Act]

I've used the towel before but didn't do the "baggie test" previously. That said the midwest pollen is a HUGE factor, its usually bad by now but because of thw long winter and cold temps it may be delayed a bit. Having a black car now it hasn't had that coat of yellow on it it, thankfully but its surely here and about to get worse before it goes away.

I will keep the towel and continue to use it but the "baggie test" is now a part of my inspection, thanks for bringing this up at our Detail Day Paul, that alone made it a success for me!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[VP Mark]

Guys just because you run a clay replacement product over the paint a couple of quick times doesn't mean all the contaminants are gone. Just like regular clay you have to test to be sure that you are fully decontaminated.

That being said, there is a lot of stuff the fine grade towels won't pick up that the medium grade will with ease. Throwing these towels under the bus because you had to do some decon after using it is throwing the baby out with the bath water.

 

[Klasse Act]

Good post VP Mark!

I just need to get "something" medium grade now, maybe a Nanoskin? I would just feel better having another item in the bag to be more complete, that's for sure!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[Tato]

Check out Mike Phillips thread. He addresses what a foam pad and a wool pad will or won't remove as far as above surface contaminates.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...echanically-decontaminate-your-car-s-paint.ht

I've saw it. Let's read together?

The part you are addressing is probably this one, right?


---Quote Mike Phillips---
"Won't machine polishing remove contaminants?"

The answer is yes and no.
---/Quote


Yes and no. Got it? Let's advance.


---Quote Mike Phillips---
It's YES if you're using a compound with a wool pad on a rotary buffer because this combination is going to remove a LOT of paint quickly and while removing the paint it's going to remove any contaminants bonded to the top of the paint.


It's NO if you're using ANY type of FOAM PAD on any tool because the foam is soft and gentle, at least compared to the individual fibers that make up a wool cutting pad and the uniform foam surface with it's ability to contour and compress is going to glide over contaminants, not shear them off.
---/Quote Mike Phillips


I've saw people removing contamination using the above method, a rotary and wool pad. However, this is a scenario I can only imagine the 'guy' avoided using clay, leaving contaminants to be removed only at the compound/polishing step.

I don't agree and also do not support this practice.

Continuing, if you DON'T clay and try to remove contaminants only using a foam pad, Mike said it's unlikely to do a good job. I plentiful agree with him.


If you read my message again, you'll see my directions were regarding Nanoskin FIRST, while polishing afterwards (after claying with nanoskin) is likely to get rid of what's left.

LIKELY, also does not means it's a 100% sure shot, can't you remove road grime, greasy, oily residue, tree sap with a foam pad polishing, a foam cutting pad and a compound?

If I can,...

Also, I see most cleansing polishes (like PBL polish) capable of removing above surface contaminants, so this is a matter of product as well, not only pad. PBL polish will probably not remove paint overspray (Nanoskin will), but the cleansing polish may clean the rest afterwards, of course, if the 'rest' is not impossible to be removed.

Just need to avoid generalizations, every situation may be so specific, the answer to those questions may be correct being yes and no.

---Quote Mike Phillips---
Sure it will remove some contaminants but the most effective way to remove above surface bonded contaminants
---/Quote Mike Phillips

:iagree:

Sure it will remove some contaminants, but it's not the most effective way.

However, like I've suggested earlier, Nanoskin PLUS polishing afterwards is likely to do a good job.

Sometimes yes, others, no.

Hope that helps.

Kind Regards.

 

[HD.Detailing]

Guys just because you run a clay replacement product over the paint a couple of quick times doesn't mean all the contaminants are gone. Just like regular clay you have to test to be sure that you are fully decontaminated.

That being said, there is a lot of stuff the fine grade towels won't pick up that the medium grade will with ease. Throwing these towels under the bus because you had to do some decon after using it is throwing the baby out with the bath water.

LOL, baby out with the bath water! Well said.. I will say the fine mitt has marred every car I've used it on.. kind of bummer but is very fast. Having said that, I am buying the medium grade too.

On another note, my mitt isn't sticky anymore.. is it done? Have not used it a lot, maybe 6 cars.

 

[beamerstrumpet]

Well the nanosponge is only 11 bucks,, maybe try that first.