swanicyouth
New member
- Mar 3, 2011
- 9,388
- 0
Found a lone defect on my car. God only knows how it got there:
Since the car is kept as close to defect free as possible, I decided to spot correct it. However, after I ended up polishing the whole hood and trunk just because I had the machine out. A 3" pad is the only thing that fits on this area:
Now, I try and use as little masking tape as possible. I don't tape up anything unless I absolutely have to. Why? Because DAs usually don't spin fast enough to damage anything and I'm convinced the residue tape leaves behind (glue) can mar paint (at least black paint) when you try to wipe it off. It's easier for me just to control and be careful with the machine then to get my towels all gummed up with tape glue boogies.
Went at it with tried and true WG TSR 3.0 on my GG6 (speed 5) on a 3" LC HT tangerine pad:
This vehicle has several areas that are only correctable with 3" or 4" pads:
Without 3" (or sometimes 4") pads, there really is no way to effectively polish these areas. Using tape and polishing over it to the next panel is just not good. Tape peels up, adhesive attracts dirt, and you pad is now polishing dirt. Also, you have to get the adhesive off the paint somehow: more rubbing. It may be ok on lighter colors where stuff is tough to notice, but on black (and if your as picky as I am) it's not good.
After WG TSR:
Wipe down with Eraser:
Having Eraser is mandatory IMHO. It's much better than IPA, as it does have some lube. It may seem costly, but you don't use much. This bottle I bought about a year ago:
Inspection, its gone:
When removing an isolated defect, I always mark where the defect is somehow before polishing. The leading edge of the towel on the roof is strait up from where it started. This is because I want to inspect EXACTLY where it was, not where I think it may have been.
Now its gone, I'm going to final polish with Menzerna SF4500 on a LC HT 3" crimson pad. Enough to prime:
After:
Polish removed:
Since I knew the defect was gone, I'm just looking at gloss, etc... WG TSR 3.0 finishes down so well for me, its really hard to tell any difference between that and a final polish.
After that, I decided to hit the whole trunk and hood as well using the same process since I had the machine out. There was some very fine scratches that could only be seen in the sun. I thought Prima Amigo would remove them or cover them up (last month), but it did neither. Maybe this paint is too hard.
Then I applied some PB Black Hole using a 4" LC Cool Wave blue pad. I always like to use some type of product with an acrylic glaze as a base. Not to hide any defects (it doesn't "hide" much to me anyway), but it seems to boost the gloss a bit. Some products that glaze I use are: PB BH, Wet Glaze 2.0, Prima Amigo (seems exactly the same as PB BH, just with fine abrasives), BF Gloss Enhancing Polish, or WG Paintwork Polish Enhancer. Since the paint was polished, it didn't need any "cleaning", so I went with PB BH.
Primed and ready to go:
After BH:
Looks pretty good and glossy. I repeated on the hood and followed up with WG DGPS, WG DG Liquid Seal, then Souverän. Adding a layer of WG DG Liquid Seal also seems to boost the gloss a bit to me.
Souverän looks great. I applied it to the whole car. It's very glossy and shiny. Very easy to apply. Probably the best looking wax I've tried. It does have some shortcomings, but looks ain't one of them:
Finally, you get to see the whole car in my special outdoor photo studio (Costco's parking lot):
I'm really happy how this mini spruce up turned out. Coincidently, it was done with a lot of AG house products WG TSR, WG DGPS, WG DGLS, some Cobra Towels, & Pinnacle Souverän. All are top notch products.
I have shelves full of other stuff:
But I usually reach for the AG house brands.
Thanks for looking!
Since the car is kept as close to defect free as possible, I decided to spot correct it. However, after I ended up polishing the whole hood and trunk just because I had the machine out. A 3" pad is the only thing that fits on this area:
Now, I try and use as little masking tape as possible. I don't tape up anything unless I absolutely have to. Why? Because DAs usually don't spin fast enough to damage anything and I'm convinced the residue tape leaves behind (glue) can mar paint (at least black paint) when you try to wipe it off. It's easier for me just to control and be careful with the machine then to get my towels all gummed up with tape glue boogies.
Went at it with tried and true WG TSR 3.0 on my GG6 (speed 5) on a 3" LC HT tangerine pad:
This vehicle has several areas that are only correctable with 3" or 4" pads:
Without 3" (or sometimes 4") pads, there really is no way to effectively polish these areas. Using tape and polishing over it to the next panel is just not good. Tape peels up, adhesive attracts dirt, and you pad is now polishing dirt. Also, you have to get the adhesive off the paint somehow: more rubbing. It may be ok on lighter colors where stuff is tough to notice, but on black (and if your as picky as I am) it's not good.
After WG TSR:
Wipe down with Eraser:
Having Eraser is mandatory IMHO. It's much better than IPA, as it does have some lube. It may seem costly, but you don't use much. This bottle I bought about a year ago:
Inspection, its gone:
When removing an isolated defect, I always mark where the defect is somehow before polishing. The leading edge of the towel on the roof is strait up from where it started. This is because I want to inspect EXACTLY where it was, not where I think it may have been.
Now its gone, I'm going to final polish with Menzerna SF4500 on a LC HT 3" crimson pad. Enough to prime:
After:
Polish removed:
Since I knew the defect was gone, I'm just looking at gloss, etc... WG TSR 3.0 finishes down so well for me, its really hard to tell any difference between that and a final polish.
After that, I decided to hit the whole trunk and hood as well using the same process since I had the machine out. There was some very fine scratches that could only be seen in the sun. I thought Prima Amigo would remove them or cover them up (last month), but it did neither. Maybe this paint is too hard.
Then I applied some PB Black Hole using a 4" LC Cool Wave blue pad. I always like to use some type of product with an acrylic glaze as a base. Not to hide any defects (it doesn't "hide" much to me anyway), but it seems to boost the gloss a bit. Some products that glaze I use are: PB BH, Wet Glaze 2.0, Prima Amigo (seems exactly the same as PB BH, just with fine abrasives), BF Gloss Enhancing Polish, or WG Paintwork Polish Enhancer. Since the paint was polished, it didn't need any "cleaning", so I went with PB BH.
Primed and ready to go:
After BH:
Looks pretty good and glossy. I repeated on the hood and followed up with WG DGPS, WG DG Liquid Seal, then Souverän. Adding a layer of WG DG Liquid Seal also seems to boost the gloss a bit to me.
Souverän looks great. I applied it to the whole car. It's very glossy and shiny. Very easy to apply. Probably the best looking wax I've tried. It does have some shortcomings, but looks ain't one of them:
Finally, you get to see the whole car in my special outdoor photo studio (Costco's parking lot):
I'm really happy how this mini spruce up turned out. Coincidently, it was done with a lot of AG house products WG TSR, WG DGPS, WG DGLS, some Cobra Towels, & Pinnacle Souverän. All are top notch products.
I have shelves full of other stuff:
But I usually reach for the AG house brands.
Thanks for looking!
rops:
