Spring paint prep question

raysaint

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Car: 2023 red Mazda cx-30, new in November 2023. Did iron-X, clay, Klasse HGS (I have some to use up.)

Last July finally did a full correction; clay towel, Carpro Reflect with a yellow Rupes waffle pad, got pretty much all the swirls out. Then Eraser, then one coat of Klasse HGS, then a layer of Gyeon Wetcoat.
Wife didn't drive hardly all summer so I only did a about 3 contact washes.
Before winter, washed and then 2 layers of Gyeon Wetcoat, it held up pretty well.

So now before this late spring LSP, do I need to:
1) just wash or strip wash, then Klasse HGS, or,
2) polish with a non abrasive, like Klasse AIO, then HGS (hopefully 2 coats.)

Thanking you in advance.
 
A lot depends on the condition of the paint? Is there swirling? Feel the paint. Is there contamination?
 
A lot depends on the condition of the paint? Is there swirling? Feel the paint. Is there contamination?
Agree. Let the condition of the paint be your guide.

If the paint isn't all swirled up from things like snow removal or the few washes you've done since the last polishing, you might be able to get away with just a "wash 'n wax" job.
 
Car: 2023 red Mazda cx-30, new in November 2023. Did iron-X, clay, Klasse HGS (I have some to use up.)

Last July finally did a full correction; clay towel, Carpro Reflect with a yellow Rupes waffle pad, got pretty much all the swirls out. Then Eraser, then one coat of Klasse HGS, then a layer of Gyeon Wetcoat.
Wife didn't drive hardly all summer so I only did a about 3 contact washes.
Before winter, washed and then 2 layers of Gyeon Wetcoat, it held up pretty well.

So now before this late spring LSP, do I need to:
1) just wash or strip wash, then Klasse HGS, or,
2) polish with a non abrasive, like Klasse AIO, then HGS (hopefully 2 coats.)

Thanking you in advance.

Considering Mazda paint tends to be on the thinner and softer side, Soul Red especially, if you can avoid polishing, then do so. In which case, wash with a high pH soap such as Koch Chemie Active Foam, Carpro Lift, Gyeon Foam or ADS Decon Soap. You could also use an iron remover before or after washing. Then go over the car with a prep spray like Eraser, then apply your LSP.
 
Considering Mazda paint tends to be on the thinner and softer side, Soul Red especially, if you can avoid polishing, then do so. In which case, wash with a high pH soap such as Koch Chemie Active Foam, Carpro Lift, Gyeon Foam or ADS Decon Soap. You could also use an iron remover before or after washing. Then go over the car with a prep spray like Eraser, then apply your LSP.
Is it expensive to get labcosmetica in your country? I would reccomend you give primus 2.0 a try at minimum, even purifica too. For me primus 2.0 works better than carpro lift and ads decon(v1). Never tried the other two you mentioned.

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Is it expensive to get labcosmetica in your country? I would reccomend you give primus 2.0 a try at minimum, even purifica too. For me primus 2.0 works better than carpro lift and ads decon(v1). Never tried the other two you mentioned.

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I have discounted access to the Labocosmetic brand via the local distributor, so yes, it would be an affordable option. But for some reason, the Labocosmetica brand does nothing for me.
 
I have discounted access to the Labocosmetic brand via the local distributor, so yes, it would be an affordable option. But for some reason, the Labocosmetica brand does nothing for me.
Fair enough lol

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Considering Mazda paint tends to be on the thinner and softer side, Soul Red especially, if you can avoid polishing, then do so. In which case, wash with a high pH soap such as Koch Chemie Active Foam, Carpro Lift, Gyeon Foam or ADS Decon Soap. You could also use an iron remover before or after washing. Then go over the car with a prep spray like Eraser, then apply your LSP.
Even if the polish is non-abrasive?
 
I'll look at the paint in the sun, if there are swirls, I'll polish (non-abrasive.) But if I polish I probably should lightly clay it?
if no swirls, I'll get an alkaline soap.
I wanted to avoid claying because that usually leaves a bit of marring.
 
I'll look at the paint in the sun, if there are swirls, I'll polish (non-abrasive.) But if I polish I probably should lightly clay it?
if no swirls, I'll get an alkaline soap.
I wanted to avoid claying because that usually leaves a bit of marring.
Regarding clay: feel the paint! Does it feel contaminated? If it is, are you using clay bar or a clay towel (or similar)? The clay towels (etc) mar much less than clay.
 
If I just go high alkaline soap, can I use a Ik hand sprayer and just spray it on without foam? Watched a vid where they did this; they compared BH touchless wash vs Primus. Not sure neighbors would like gobs of foam rinsed into the road gutter.
So a touchless wash of maybe 9 ph, would that do it? Or higher, but then not use anytime after my LSP is on?
 
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If I just go high alkaline soap, can I use a Ik hand sprayer and just spray it on without foam? Watched a vid where they did this; they compared BH touchless wash vs Primus. Not sure neighbors would like gobs of foam rinsed into the road gutter.
So a touchless wash of maybe 9 ph, would that do it? Or higher, but then not use anytime after my LSP is on?
I would go with Primus 2.0 in a non foaming pump sprayer or regular spray bottle. Primus 2.0 will not stain or harm vehicle surfaces. 1/20 for dirty an 1/50 for light dirty is what i do. Works well, i love that product

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If I use the IK Multi Pro, no foaming pressure sprayer, the dilution ratios are confusing for Primus. Each paragraph is different.

"For cleaning rims and tires dilution 1:3 up to 1:10; for cleaning of parts low of the car , side members , bumper or removal of midges 1:20 dilution; for cleaning very dirty cars dilution 1:50 dispensing the product from bottom to top; for washing medium-dirty cars dilution 1:80 by dispensing the product from bottom to top; for frequent washing 1: 100.

DISPENSING WITH FOAM GUN SYSTEM : in this case it is advisable to respect the normal dilutions obtaining delivery output such as those recommended with spray dispenser above describe. The final dilution varies according to the pressure washer used. We generally recommend diluting PRÌMUS 2.0 1:5 for winter dirt , 1:10 for summer dirt . After application wait a few minutes and rinse with high pressure .

Dilute 1:5-1:15 depending on the degree of contamination or the condition of the vehicle, then soften with a foam gun for spray the foam on all the painted surfaces of the vehicle + wheels + rims."
 
If I use the IK Multi Pro, no foaming pressure sprayer, the dilution ratios are confusing for Primus. Each paragraph is different.

"For cleaning rims and tires dilution 1:3 up to 1:10; for cleaning of parts low of the car , side members , bumper or removal of midges 1:20 dilution; for cleaning very dirty cars dilution 1:50 dispensing the product from bottom to top; for washing medium-dirty cars dilution 1:80 by dispensing the product from bottom to top; for frequent washing 1: 100.

DISPENSING WITH FOAM GUN SYSTEM : in this case it is advisable to respect the normal dilutions obtaining delivery output such as those recommended with spray dispenser above describe. The final dilution varies according to the pressure washer used. We generally recommend diluting PRÌMUS 2.0 1:5 for winter dirt , 1:10 for summer dirt . After application wait a few minutes and rinse with high pressure .

Dilute 1:5-1:15 depending on the degree of contamination or the condition of the vehicle, then soften with a foam gun for spray the foam on all the painted surfaces of the vehicle + wheels + rims."
Ik multi pro is what i use. I will tell you i have watched many videos of reggie cox from labocosmetica. Watch a few and you will learn valuable information.

As far as dilutions go for me..if the vehicle has been driven in the rain and has bug guts, mudd, debris and traffic film all over it then i will put 2oz of primus 2.0 and the rest water which technically is more like 1:24 but im going for the 1:20 dilution. If the vehicle has not been driven in rain or only caught in a quick light shower and not covered in most of earlier said debris, is only mainly dusty then ill use 1 oz of primus 2.0 and the rest water, which is close enough for me to the 1:50 dilution. I have yet to try 1:80 dulition, but if we get a dry spell this year i will test that dilution out.

For the wheels/tires, i would reccomend starting out with whatever dilution you are using on the paint, and then if needed adjust to what works for you. Reggie cox says on dilution ratios"if you dont know, start low"

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Regarding clay: feel the paint! Does it feel contaminated? If it is, are you using clay bar or a clay towel (or similar)? The clay towels (etc) mar much less than clay.
Either one, not matter how careful you may be, might force you to do a light polish with an abrasive product. I never do any form of large-scale clay (bar or towel) unless I'm prepared to polish as well.
 
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Either one, not matter how careful you may be, might force you to do a light polish with an abrasive product. I never do any form of large-scale clay (bar or towel) unless I'm prepared to polish as well.
It’s possible but much less likely in my (limited) experience. You pays your fee and you takes your chances as they say. Only you can decide on the amount of contamination that is worth the risk to you. Fortunately, it doesn’t seem to be a big problem here.
 
Either one, not matter how careful you may be, might force you to do a light polish with an abrasive product. I never do any form of large-scale clay (bar or towel) unless I'm prepared to polish as well.
If it does need a mild claying (towel), would a non-abrasive polish, Klasse AIO, be sufficient? I did abrasive polish last july, not sure another round would be good for Soul Red paint.
 
Ik multi pro is what i use. I will tell you i have watched many videos of reggie cox from labocosmetica. Watch a few and you will learn valuable information.

As far as dilutions go for me..if the vehicle has been driven in the rain and has bug guts, mudd, debris and traffic film all over it then i will put 2oz of primus 2.0 and the rest water which technically is more like 1:24 but im going for the 1:20 dilution. If the vehicle has not been driven in rain or only caught in a quick light shower and not covered in most of earlier said debris, is only mainly dusty then ill use 1 oz of primus 2.0 and the rest water, which is close enough for me to the 1:50 dilution. I have yet to try 1:80 dulition, but if we get a dry spell this year i will test that dilution out.

For the wheels/tires, i would reccomend starting out with whatever dilution you are using on the paint, and then if needed adjust to what works for you. Reggie cox says on dilution ratios"if you dont know, start low"

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The website says it only removes dirt, doesn't harm lsp's. Will it be enough to strip away the old lsp, or does that matter before applying fresh lsp now? Or should I use a stronger ph touchless soap?
 
The more detailed the prep, the longer the lsp tends to last. That, of course, is balanced by the longevity of the lsp you are using. Big difference between beadmaker and CQUK3. I would only polish if you absolutely need to but I don’t really know about non-abrasive polishes. Have you felt your paint to see if it’s rough?
 
The website says it only removes dirt, doesn't harm lsp's. Will it be enough to strip away the old lsp, or does that matter before applying fresh lsp now? Or should I use a stronger ph touchless soap?
Honestly bud use whichever you want. Primus 2.0 would be what i would use if i was in your situation. Pre spray in a pump sprayer and then use in youe bucket wash. Then move on to your steps of applying your lsp.

I personally dont like bh touchless. Ive had it stain plastics on multiple vehicles and leave stains on black paint that i had to polish to clean it up. I have over half a gallon of it sitting on the shelf for like 2-3 years now.

But you and or someone else coukd have a different experience with it.

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