squeeling rear wheel?

Well ####. Torque wrench snapped the caliper bolt! I checked the manual for proper torque settings and for whatever reason, the bolt snapped before the torque wrench clicked...

Guess Im getting my car towed to the mechanics now. Sheesh what rotten luck..

Very aggravating to say the least. I wonder what happened.. Now they are going to have to either drill it out or extract it.. Out of a car until Monday now..
 
When the wheel was on did you grab the top and bottom of the tire, or each side and check to see if it had any wobble? Is there any of the bolt that broke sticking out? I don't know how much you feel comfortable doing yourself, but there are ways to get the broken bolt out...assuming it isn't cross threaded...

I see now my first question was already asked.
 
When the wheel was on did you grab the top and bottom of the tire, or each side and check to see if it had any wobble? Is there any of the bolt that broke sticking out? I don't know how much you feel comfortable doing yourself, but there are ways to get the broken bolt out...assuming it isn't cross threaded...

I see now my first question was already asked.

Im a novice for sure. I try to do what I can, of which includes exhaust work, belts, oil, and suspension. All of which I have done myself.

Im more frustrated I guess. I would be comfortable extracting the bolt, its not cross threaded. I don't own a kit and would have to buy one. To me, the joy of getting the bolt out myself isn't worth the time to go buy the kit and find a new bolt. Rather enjoy my weekend at this point haha. Still though, the initial issue is not making itself obvious to me (from what I can tell), and I was going to drop it off anyways for a proper diagnosis. So I might as well have him fix my mistake if I am taking it anyways. I don't want to waste my weekend fussing with this.

I did forget to check for wobble when I put it all back together.
 
Just jack the wheel up off the ground an inch or two and try wiggling it. Only takes a few minutes to check that.
 
Got my car back and I am even more confused now.

They took it in, pulled out the bolt I snapped, and drove it around and they told me they weren't really able to hear what I was describing. I told him what I did to cause it and still nothing note worthy. They put it on their rack to take a closer look and told me that I was possibly hearing the wear markers on the front. Told me my front brakes are low on pad and the rotors or too thin to resurface. I declined the front brake job as I would like to try it myself. But I was still mystified by the rear as I am positive that's where the sound is..

Drove it home and no noise. Only thing they said they did was adjust the parking break, but I don't see how that could cause all the combinations of noises I was hearing.

Im not holding my breath yet, but Im gonna go to school with no radio and see if I hear the same noises. If not, GREAT! But it so freaking weird I have no explanation, and neither does he really as he never really heard what I heard. Maybe putting the new bolt in and whatever they did during that time fixed it.. I mean it was getting real obnoxious what I took it in. Now its seemingly silent from the short drive from the mechanic home.
 
You know, after you posted those pictures of the rear pad, I was thinking about how difficult it really is to tell where those audible wear indicator noises are coming from when you are in the car, and I wondered if it was the other side or more likely the front because the fronts should go first (usually).

Sometimes it helps to have someone standing outside the car and roll the car up and down the driveway or street and see if they can isolate which wheel(s) the sound is coming from.

If you've got 50K miles on the fronts, it's likely time to change them. Rotors are so cheap today it's frequently hard to make the case to cut them (even if you have enough thickness) especially once you factor in an extra trip to a machine shop, whether you have to leave them, etc.

Do you have a friend who had done brakes before? Probably worth buying him a six or a pizza to get another set of eyes on what you're doing, I realized after you snapped that bolt that sometimes what seems simple to those of us who have been doing these things for decades is not that simple to someone doing it for the first time.

I remember my friend who took auto shop helping me on my car when I was in high school.
 
If the noise comes back (and likely it will - noises simply don't fix themselves); simply jack up the rear of the car and spin the wheel(s) with your hand. You likely will be able to pinpoint where it's coming from - assuming this noise is not occurring when you apply the brakes only.

A couple of thoughts if it's coming from the rear:

1. Crappy brake pads. Yes, crappy brake pads can make all sorts of noises when applied or not. I just tossed a new pair of Advance Autos finest (yes I know - garbage - but it's all I could get that day I needed them ASAP) - because they made horrible intermittent noises. I replaced them with some Wagner Thermo Quiets - noise fixed 100%. When you buy brake pads - always buy high quality - you will likely have to order online. No, in this instance I didn't follow my own advice.

2. Dust shield / brake hardware rubbing the rotor

3. If your emergency brake setup is internal to the rotor hat (looks like it is ) - something could have broken in there & is rubbing inside the E braking surface of the rotor.

4. Rear wheel bearing bad or going bad.

It should be fairly easy to tell if the noise is coming from the back or the front. Usually your gut instinct is right here - no need to overthink it. If it's brake related, the noise will likely change if the brakes are applied very gently. If it's a wheel bearing issue, you likely will hear it at certain speeds but not others. If it's the backing plate, it will likely be quite random or more likely cold.

Luckily on what appears to be a FWD Nissan - pinpointing a rotational noise from the rear shouldn't be to difficult. If it's a rotation noise, just jacking up the vehicle from the rear (not removing the wheel), and slowly spinning the wheel likely will duplicate the noise.
 
So far the noise is gone. And I cannot hear what they were hearing with the fronts. They told me I was likely hearing the front wear markers but I hear nothing from the front at all.

I am 10000000000% sure it was the rear right wheel area. No debate.. How they were not able to hear it after fixing my mistake is confusing. And the fact they fixed the noise without seemingly realizing it is even more confusing. I have no idea what to think. Its gone, everything that caused it before is not causing it now. Whatever they did during the process of adjusting the ebrake and yanking the bolt and putting a new one in, and whatever else they did back there fixed it.

I will report back if the noise does return. But for now, I am going to shop around for new pads and rotors for the front.

I don't have any car buddies unfortunately. But there are a couple of logs people have made for now car on how to do the job.

Such as:

2005 Nissan Altima 2
 
^^^:props:^^^

Schedule: Test and Tune this Friday night? :)


Bob
 
!Mini update! - noise is still gone. Guessing its gone for good.

Anyways,

So I think I decided on these rotors.
Centric Premium High Carbon Rotors - Best Price on Centric High Carbon Blank Brake Rotors

But the pads I cannot decide. I kept reading about having a high initial bite on the "performance" pads and I am pretty sure I will not like high initial bite. My work has several 2012 kia souls and the first few times I drove those I was slamming on the brakes because if I pushed the pedal as far as I do with the Altima the tires would lock. So with the kia, the initial bite is high where very little pedal travel is needed for max braking. Im just speculating though, maybe they just have a short throw and the throw on my brakes is longer? I have no idea. I just don't like the feeling of pushing the brakes in and inch and going from 0-100% brake so quick.

I got used to it and can drive it normal, but I don't really care for that feel. I like my brakes where they have more travel, I feel like I can modulate it it better and brake more accurately. I dunno, after realizing this I am thinking of just going with normal pads.

Was thinking maybe the akebono pro acts. I have no idea what pads are on my car now, but I still drive it aggressively and the pads do fine. So perhaps performace pads aren't for me? I drive my car like a race car, but I just don't think I will like having a real strong initial bite.
 
IMO the brake "feel" difference you notice between your car and the company cars has nothing to do with the pads and is simply a difference in the level of power assist.

If you drive your car like a race car and the front pads have lasted 50K miles, I don't think you need any special pads (presuming that since you don't know what you have now that they are just OEM-equivalents). I've been very happy with the Pro-Acts; some other members like them, and other members like other things.
 
Different pads will definitely have different initial feel based on the friction coefficient of the pad material. It can be pretty dramatic. Kinda like how brakes generally do not bite as hard when it's really cold out versus hot, at least until they warm up.

Another thing that affects your brake feel is the brake fluid. It absorbs water through the brake lines over time and brake feel diminishes gradually. If your brake fluid is older than 4 years, it should be flushed. It can really firm up your braking and give you a much more direct feel. It doesn't actually make the brakes bite harder initially, but it gives you better feel through the pedal.

Factory pads are generally a good choice. You can usually save money by finding out who manufactures them and go to that brand name. (For german cars, it's often Pagid, for example.)
 
Thanks for the clarification setec and brett.

I can get OEM pads from courtesy parts for about 60 which isn't bad at all. No idea what shipping will cost.

I guess my main concern is noise. I could probably get used to higher initial bite, but I am concerned as I keep hearing reviews stating noise and some say no noise. My brakes make no noise(except when wet or crawling super slow, normal driving they are silent). I don't know if these reviewers are being anal and its barely there, or if its actually bothersome.
 
What is that, like a 2003 Maxima? Rock Auto has Akebono's for the rear for $42.79, but you'll have to pay shipping. They are $52 at Tire Rack, but it's free shipping there. Tire Rack also has your choice of the Centric rotors, those can be expensive to ship because they are heavy so the free shipping is nice.

Bear in mind you may also want to get a brake hardware kit (the little shims that the pads ride on in the caliper), otherwise you will need to clean them up well. You'll also need some good lube for the tabs. You might want to consider buying some of this stuff locally so you can get some tips/advice from the counterman (presuming you have access to a real auto parts store, not a chain).
 
What is that, like a 2003 Maxima? Rock Auto has Akebono's for the rear for $42.79, but you'll have to pay shipping. They are $52 at Tire Rack, but it's free shipping there. Tire Rack also has your choice of the Centric rotors, those can be expensive to ship because they are heavy so the free shipping is nice.

Bear in mind you may also want to get a brake hardware kit (the little shims that the pads ride on in the caliper), otherwise you will need to clean them up well. You'll also need some good lube for the tabs. You might want to consider buying some of this stuff locally so you can get some tips/advice from the counterman (presuming you have access to a real auto parts store, not a chain).

Its a 2005 nissan altima 3.5se. I will check out rockauto and see if I can find the rotors and pads cheaper.

I will also consider everything else you mentioned. :xyxthumbs:
 
Haynes manual - translation

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips (adjustable wrench) then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?

Haynes: Should remove easily.
Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Remove small retaining clip.
Translation: Take off 15 years of stubborn crud, it's there somewhere.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scarey photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Locate ...
Translation: This photo of a hex nut is the only clue we're giving you.

Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).

Haynes: Ease ...
Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.
Translation: But Novas are easy to maintain right... right? So you think three Nova spanners has got to be like a 'regular car' two spanner job.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!

Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company.

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "bugger" repeatedly under your breath.

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Locate securing bolt.
Translation: Remember that worrying noise when you drove along the A38 last summer? That's where you'll find the securing bolt.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Remove drum retaining pin.
Translation: Break every screwdriver in your box.

Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.
Translation #3: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain wrench or length of bicycle chain.
Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.

Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid (dish soap). Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.

Haynes: See illustration for details
Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model. The actual location of the unit is never given.

Haynes: Drain off all fluids before removing cap.
Translation: Visit bathroom, spit on ground, remove baseball cap in order to scratch head in perplexity.

Haynes: Top up fluids.
Translation: Drink 2 cans of beer and call out a mobile mechanic to undo the damage.
 
HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats, motorcycle jackets, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing (fender).

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.

PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
 
HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE]

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

Haha I got a good laugh out of that one:applause::laughing:

I experienced a similar moment using a miter saw to cut baseboards. Was trying to be extremely precise and kept hitting the inside edge ruining a perfect cut. Now I have a bundle of 3ft long pieces I need to find a use for.
 
Alright fellas, I made it official with my order. Ended up getting it all from autoanything as they are throwing coupon codes out left and right and it equaled out to rock auto prices for the most part but with free shipping.

Got the centric high carbon rotors blanks (no drilled or slotted)and stoptech street performance pads. All the reading I did seemed to indicate these pads were about what I was looking for. Something I could track, but wont be squeaky, hopefully more linear feel. Sounds like they may dust a bit, but I guess you have to make a trade off somewhere. I also figured it would be easier to realize I hate performance pads and then downgrade to OEM equivalent(what I have now) than it would be to get an OEM style pad and then wonder if I would still prefer something a bit grippier.
 
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