Starting out simple for now, advice please

[buzz123]

Hi everyone,

Before I jump into my post, I made a recent post called "Am I undercharging myself?" I thought that might give more light as to why I am making this post.

But in case you mightn't have the time to read my previous post, I was saying that I detail my friends cars for $150. Just the exterior only which includes wash, full clay, swirl removal (normally 2 stages), wax, mags polished, wheels shined, water spot removal, boot/bonnet/door jambs cleaned and QD'd, glass cleaned inside and out. Takes me roughly 5.5 hrs all up, but less if I don't have to apply any compound.

I have a feeling I might be grossly undercutting myself.

Alrighty, I want to start detailing as a business and want to start out simple for the time being while maximising profit and giving best bang for buck for the customer while saving me time. I read Mike Phillips post about using one-step cleaner/wax to maximise profit.

My idea is to do away with the $150 job and reserve this as a premium service.

So starting out, do you think the following process is fair for $150?

1. Clean mags/rims/tyres
2. Pre-soak car with snow foam
3. Rinse off
4. Snow foam again
5. Lambswool mitt with rinse bucket
6. Rinse off
7. Clay with ‘clay’ sponge bar
8. Apply AIO to paint with machine (LC white pad on medium speed)
Planning on using Klasse AIO
Manually apply AIO to chrome, plastic, vinyl, rubber, boot/bonnet/door jambs
Is is okay to quickly pass over the windows as well?
9. Apply Sealant: such as Klasse HGSG (1 x coat) for an EXTRA charge

* Is it necessary to finish off with some QD after AIO or sealant?

* Will I need to apply a paint cleaner AFTER claying and PRIOR to AIO, or will the AIO act as a paint cleaner with it’s micro abrasive polishing properties?

* I’m getting sick of carrying 2 x 20L buckets around the car which is why thought of the snow foam lance and 1 x 20L bucket to rinse my mitt

* I always use a clay bar, but thought I read a post by Visual Pro Detailing (I think that was their name), suggesting to use a 'clay' bar sponge to save costs.

I read many great reviews about Klasse AIO and Klasse HGSG but I am more than willing to buy better product, so any suggestions are welcome. Also I will buy proper clay bars when I start to make some money.

I want to create value with a jaw dropping job. I have come across a lot of people who use the old line of 'oh, I got a cut and polish the other day for $250, bargain!' But I still see swirl marks and light scratches and water marks etc. But to them, they were ecstatic.

So if their standards are somewhat out of line with my standards (which is to aim for perfection), then I need to change my processes in line with their standards AND then give them something that'll make them go 'WOW!' I don't think any of these people I have met are aware of swirl removals etc. I think Mike Phillips said something like, don't give promises of perfection and listen to the person and gauge their 'level of standards'. Basically he mentioned to not promise anything and then produce a result that was above their expectations.

I am sorry for so many questions, and apologise if my post sounds a bit confusing. I just want to produce a simplified approach for a simple detail at a fair price for the customer and me!

Any suggestions/advice are welcome

Thanks

 

[trekkeruss]

* Is it necessary to finish off with some QD after AIO or sealant?

Absolutely not.

* Will I need to apply a paint cleaner AFTER claying and PRIOR to AIO, or will the AIO act as a paint cleaner with it’s micro abrasive polishing properties?

No; yes.

* I’m getting sick of carrying 2 x 20L buckets around the car which is why thought of the snow foam lance and 1 x 20L bucket to rinse my mitt

Two words: bucket dolly.

* I always use a clay bar, but thought I read a post by Visual Pro Detailing (I think that was their name), suggesting to use a 'clay' bar sponge to save costs.

Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge. It lasts longer than clay, and if you accidentally drop it, you just rinse it off.

I read many great reviews about Klasse AIO and Klasse HGSG but I am more than willing to buy better product, so any suggestions are welcome.

I'd suggest Meguiar's D151 Paint reconditioning cream, mainly because it is a LOT cheaper. Use a more expensive product in a higher priced package or as an upsell.

 

[buzz123]

Two words: bucket dolly.

I thought about that, however not practical as a couple friends have houses built on a sloping block. It's a pain to wash a car with 20L buckets on a 35 degree slope.

Using a dolly would not be practical either because they don't have driveways. It's a grass block.

I think I'll save up for dollys when money permits, however I think foam lances for those type of jobs, and 2BM for people with level blocks.

Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge. It lasts longer than clay, and if you accidentally drop it, you just rinse it off.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it

I'd suggest Meguiar's D151 Paint reconditioning cream, mainly because it is a LOT cheaper. Use a more expensive product in a higher priced package or as an upsell.

I've not heard of that before, but will look into it. What's your experience with Megs D151?

 

[buzz123]

I'd suggest Meguiar's D151 Paint reconditioning cream, mainly because it is a LOT cheaper. Use a more expensive product in a higher priced package or as an upsell.

Oh shoot, they don't sell D151 in Australia!

Any other suggestions other than Klasse AIO and Klasse HGSG?

 

[dirtdestroyer]

Consider using a rinseless wash in the major slope situation. Foam does not replace the 2BW it compliments it.

Personally I think passing up windows is something not to do however you could start that way and upsell that service.

 

[VP Mark]

Why not simplify/speed up even further? Steps take time And time is money.

ONR wash
Nano skin sponge or towel
AIO product
Dress tires/fender wells
Glass

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

 

[rustytruck]

Sounds like you are planning on using hundreds of gallons of water just to wash a car. You might want to look into the rinse-less washes. ONR is something to look into.

 

[Niko Molina]

Perhaps have a maintenance/production detail package (cheaper) and a showroom/premium detail package (expensive).

Production would be for people with daily drivers not looking to go all-in for an expensive detail. Most people don't appreciate or even notice the removal of scratches and oxidation or even care. Mike said in one of his articles they just want a simple shine which claying + AIO can give. Production detail can be as simple as
-wheels/tires
-wash
-clay
-wash
-AIO
-windows
-interior

These jobs will go much quicker and it's easy money. Hence 'production' detail.

Premium/showroom could be giving it your all... guys with BMWs, Mercedes, Audis, Chryslers, etc. should be more easy to get this package sold too. (They've got the $$$ to afford those cars...a good detail should be optimal.) I feel like they'll appreciate that amount of detail for their car MORE than an owner of a 2005 Honda Accord who's just looking for their car to look shiny/glossy.
-wheels tires + iron x + apply sealant + wax dependent on the rim material
-wash
-clay bar/nanoskin
-iron X
-wash
-compound
-polish
-synthetic sealant
-carnuaba wax
-polish + razor blade windows (saw AMMO do a video on it) + clean windows
-interior

The showroom/premium detail will take much longer than a production but will obviously produce a much, MUCH better end result.

 

[dirtdestroyer]

If you are doing this for profit you probably want to skip washing again after claying. If you used a good microfiber polishing cloth to dry after claying you shouldn't need the 2nd wash, time is money.

Packages can be done in many ways and often depends on what you have to work with and what your skillset is. I would seperate the interior and exterior packages but offer a discount on doing them both together, Upsell sealant and engine detailing on the production package. You could also have a basic wash package where you wash exterior/tires/wheel wells apply wax or sealant dress tires and do interior vac, surface clean, windows and jambs upselling steam cleaning.

It all depends on personal pref.

 

[Goodys]

There's alot of good information and opinions in this thread.

 

[buzz123]

Thanks heaps for all the great advice and suggestions. I truly appreciate it.Everyone has given me much food for thought in order to get direction and clarity in regard to an action plan!

 

[thebamboo23]

if you're barely starting off and only do friends/family and some friends of friends cars, dont worry about maximizing profits. Focus on your technique, see what you lack, document your work, and see what works for you

rinseless/waterless is what i use. i know of a lot of detailer that primarily use this form of washing cars.

clay pad, clay mitt, clay disc, clay sponge, etc..

blah blah blah

is your business plan 100% solid?

 

[dirtdestroyer]

if you're barely starting off and only do friends/family and some friends of friends cars, dont worry about maximizing profits. Focus on your technique, see what you lack, document your work, and see what works for you

rinseless/waterless is what i use. i know of a lot of detailer that primarily use this form of washing cars.

clay pad, clay mitt, clay disc, clay sponge, etc..

blah blah blah

is your business plan 100% solid?

If someone is starting a business before they have technique figured out (to a certain degree as we are always learning) they are doing things in the wrong order IMO. Also remember process is part of technique. Alot of maximizing profits is just applying the proper technique to the job and putting the effort where it will be most appreciated. Not doing a show car detail on DD's and not focusing on interior when a customer is more concerned on exterior or vice versa.

I don't disagree with your premise, technique perfection 1st, profits 2nd. I just think it's better to not start a business until you have that experiance to be charging people.