Starting the project tonight -advice please.

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BostonStang

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All right the UPS guys just dropped off the PC/XMT kit from AGO. I have a long weekend and the wife and kids are out of town so time is no issue.

I will be working on a black 00 Mustang GT. I have read a ton here and watched all the vids and think I am ready to start.

My first question is do I need to clay the car. I did it a month ago and don't know if I really need to do it again -or is this just haste makes waste.

after the wash and clay if needed I will start with XMT 3 for pretty much the entire car then work it over with XMT 1.

After that I have some questions about what products to use that you guys think will make the most impressive finish -durabillity is not an issue for me in the summer. Haveing become addicted to AGO in the last month or so I have a ton of stuff around that I can't wait to use but I know I can't put everything on at once.

My plan is XMT Glaze followed by Nattys Blue.

I also have Poorboys EX-P, Blue Polish and a sample of the new DP Sealant (thanks Meghan!).

Is XMT glaze and Natty's the way to go or should I subsitute something else from my line up of mostly unused products?

Some areas of the car will be taped off due to new paint -don't know if that alters anyone's advice.

Last thing is that I noticed that in the instuctional videos the car had been taped up -is this an important step?
 
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xmt glaze and NB are the 2nd best combo i have found


only other one that tops is is xmt glaze toped with souveran


so i would stick with the xmt glaze and NB


i would also use the test that i use

go get a plastic bad and put your hand in it and run it over the cars paint after you have washed it


if it grabs on the paint you need to clay


everything else looks good


-z
 
I think the Glaze then Natty's Blue is a good idea. Ill be doing Glaze then Max Wax. Another good combo is Glaze then Souveran . Just remember that you dont want to put a sealer over a glaze. So I dont think the EX-P or DP Sealant would be a good idea. I wouldnt necessarly start with the XMT 3. You want to use the least aggressive swirl remover possible. So try #2 first and see how that does. If you need more go with the #3. Id also go ahead and clay the car again to start with a new slate. Also, with the swirl removers, make sure you work them in right. If not then youll get maring. You should work them in for about 3-5 min per 2x2' section. With the glaze just spead it around and get a nice thin layer, you dont need to work it in. With the Natty's Blue you want to apply it, then wait for it to dry to a haze. Drying time depends a lot on the weather.
 
BostonStang said:
My first question is do I need to clay the car. I did it a month ago and don't know if I really need to do it again -or is this just haste makes waste.
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If no metal work was done near by while in the shop your good. I had my rear bumper replaced and painted and with in a few days had light rust spots all over the car. Clay removed them all thank god....

after the wash and clay if needed I will start with XMT 3 for pretty much the entire car then work it over with XMT 1.
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XMT#3 remove all residue then XMT1 (watch the vid they just posted)

After that I have some questions about what products to use that you guys think will make the most impressive finish -durabillity is not an issue for me in the summer. Haveing become addicted to AGO in the last month or so I have a ton of stuff around that I can't wait to use but I know I can't put everything on at once.

My plan is XMT Glaze followed by Nattys Blue.
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Great combo and will look deep/wet
I also have Poorboys EX-P, Blue Polish and a sample of the new DP Sealant (thanks Meghan!).
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Sealant are more reflective then nubas so keep that in mind it's preference really.

Is XMT glaze and Natty's the way to go or should I subsitute something else from my line up of mostly unused products?
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Will look deep and wet together; just remember most sealant don't play nice with glazes due to oils.
Some areas of the car will be taped off due to new paint -don't know if that alters anyone's advice.
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No comment cause I don't know :D

Last thing is that I noticed that in the instuctional videos the car had been taped up -is this an important step?
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At least tap up your key holes, emblems, and trim, mainly if the swirl remover/polish stains the trim your going to have to try and remove it off the trim later (saves time). At least cover your key holes (trust me my black key holes are now chrome :o ) and covered emblems reduce the chance of the pad getting caught on a sharp edge and either ripping the pad or your GT emblems taking flight lol.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't have XMT 2 since I purchased the intermediate swirl kit. It is a black car that while well care for looks like a black car with 6 years of swirls in it. And when I bought it I didn't know crap about how to care for a dark car. So it got cleaned with dirty rags and has seen a few coin op washes. So, I am pretty sure that #3 is the way to go.
 
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Just start with your least aggressive pad, if it's not getting the job done then move up to your next aggressive pad and you should be fine just take your time and watch your work. Good luck....
 
Use the blue painters tape it will be easier to remove. The 5 or so minutes it takes to tape it off will save you lots of time removing from badges and trim. I might even use an old sheet to cover the windows of the section you are working on just until you get the feel for the pc. Just my 2 cents.
 
If you have deep-moderate swirls/scratches remember the PC will need some pressure on it to do strong work or you'll sit there forever lol.

Other than that, the other guys cleared everything up. XMT Glaze and NB should look extremely deep and wet, PICS A.S.A.P.:awesome:
 
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This is the first time I ever bought painters tape. All O'reilly's had was green. Does that matter. Or is blue important. Been raining all day so I am waiting to start.
 
BostonStang said:
This is the first time I ever bought painters tape. All O'reilly's had was green. Does that matter. Or is blue important. Been raining all day so I am waiting to start.
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Other's may have more knowledge of this, but I have done a lot of painting in my home. I've had green and blue tape, the only difference I know of was brand. I usually purchase the blue painter's tape at Lowes or Home Depot. I'm sure you could also find it at any ACE Hardware, or Sherwin Williams store.
 
If the car was recently painted you won't be able to wax those areas for 30 days after. Just a heads up.
 
Thanks Florida, I marked those areas off with tape.

Another question. I have washed the car, dryed it, taped it. I started with XMT 3 on an orange pad doing a small section of the hood. The swirls are gone but now I see that I have a lot of etching and piting in my paint. I have worked the same area 4 times and am going very slow and applying plenty of pressure. But don't seem to be doing anything to the water spots and etching.

Could this be a technique issue, or do I need to step up to a stronger cutting pad and compound?
 
Did you watch those videos, are you doing it like that?
 
waterspots and etching can go very deep into the clearcoat and into the base paint coat. Your PC and pads will likely lessen them, but to truly remove you might need to wetsand or rotary polish. Both removing alot of CC in the process.

In some cases you reduce them , and amp up the paint to an appearance where nobody (but you) really notices them.
 
Watched the videos, so I don't think it is me. And Killer you are right the paint still looks fantastic compared to before. Maybe the glaze and the Natty,s will hide them a bit.

Pics later today,
 
BostonStang said:
Watched the videos, so I don't think it is me. And Killer you are right the paint still looks fantastic compared to before. Maybe the glaze and the Natty,s will hide them a bit.

Pics later today,
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Can't wait to see them. I'm sure they'll be beautiful. :)
 
Pics pics pics!!!! I want to see XMT Glaze topped with Natty's Blue:righton:
 
Does anyone think that switching to a yellow pad and more aggresive compound would matter. Or is the probably about as good as it is going to get?
 
BostonStang said:
Does anyone think that switching to a yellow pad and more aggresive compound would matter. Or is the probably about as good as it is going to get?
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You can try a more aggresive pad and then bump up the aggresiveness of the polish afterwards if that doesn't work, but you have to way the benefits carefully. Remember that when you polish you are removing clear coat that is as thin as a cellophane (sp) wraper and the more aggresive you get the more of the clear you'll be removing. At some point it won't be worth the risk.
 
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