Still have some questions on Geyon Product Comparisons

TTQ B4U

TTQ B4U

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First, I'm very happy with Syncro. Washed my wife's MK-C and again, the most hyrdophobic coating I've used yet. Her car had 10 days of heavy rain and dirt on it and the road film was so thick you could feel it with your eyes. With a simple fan pattern wand on my garden hose the dirt blasted off like it was dust. I was seriously impressed which having used a lot of products and coatings, I must say the level of it's cleanability is stellar.

That said, What's the difference with Pure? I know it's a thicker 1-coat coating that touts it's wet-candy gloss which I love, but how does it stack up against 2-coats of Mohs? Also, I have nearly a full bottle of skin left after having done several vehicles and combining the left overs thus I'm wondering if Skin can be applied over Pure?

Input appreciated.
 
Jeff touched on the differences between the two products in your other thread. I have Pure but I don't know if or when I will use it. This is a replacement for Prime so I suspect it's performance to be slightly better than it. Another thing to add is that Mohs is targeted as their hardest coating.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...hts-geyon-pure-vs-mohs-syncro.html?highlight=

Jeff made another great post on Autopia that covers the difference between the two. I asked Jeff about applying Skin over Pure and you can see his response in this thread. You should not have any issues using over Pure. Just a sanity check on my part.

Intro to GYEON quartz Q2 Mohs

Before you go out and purchase Pure go and check out the how to write up Jeff posted on Detailed Image. The application process is indeed different and a bit quircky. So if you don't want to go through the hassle of the application process and are happy with Syncro then stick with Syncro. It is a great combination.
 
The Guz said:
Jeff touched on the differences between the two products in your other thread. I have Pure but I don't know if or when I will use it. This is a replacement for Prime so I suspect it's performance to be slightly better than it. Another thing to add is that Mohs is targeted as their hardest coating.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...hts-geyon-pure-vs-mohs-syncro.html?highlight=

Jeff made another great post on Autopia that covers the difference between the two. I asked Jeff about applying Skin over Pure and you can see his response in this thread. You should not have any issues using over Pure. Just a sanity check on my part.

Intro to GYEON quartz Q2 Mohs

Before you go out and purchase Pure go and check out the how to write up Jeff posted on Detailed Image. The application process is indeed different and a bit quircky. So if you don't want to go through the hassle of the application process and are happy with Syncro then stick with Syncro. It is a great combination.
Click to expand...

thank you sir. I copy/pasted his information here as it's a great read and addition to this thread.

GYEON_Jeff

To me, the biggest advantage of working with Q2 Mohs is its ease of use. Easy on and easy off while performing at a high level. What plays in to that?

1. Q2 Mohs is a PHPS based coating (polysilazane.....and not SiO2). So very smooth application without the tacky wipe off.

2. High quality carrier solvents and a great ratio of silazanes to solvents.

Q2 Mohs is designed as a 2 layer coating that can be layered up to 3 times. Past 3 layers it stops wanting to interact with the next.

Q2 Mohs is also designed as a protection oriented product. Is it the glossiest on the planet by itself? Probably not although it delivers plenty of gloss and I install it as a stand alone often. The Sio2 based coatings will deliver that very dramatic bend of light where Q2 Mohs gives a very crisp and clean pop.

Does it give the highest water bead angle on the planet at 105 degree contact angle? Probably not although that`s not to say it doesn`t display nice beading characteristics and remove water and contaminant from the surface at a high level.

Q2 Mohs really shows it`s stuff in terms of durability and protection, which is what we are asking a coating to really do. It is extremely resistant in terms of UV and Chemical damage. It`s ability to withstand penetration from these factors is at the top of its class.

If you are in to multi-layered coatings, you`ll understand why Q2 Mohs is typically the starting point for a few cool product combinations in the GYEON quartz line up:

1. Q2 Mohs topped with Q2 CanCoat. This is one of my all time favorites. I like to apply 2 layers of Q2 Mohs, wait overnight, and then drop a layer of Q2 CanCoat over it in the morning. Q2 CanCoat is SiO2 based. So we are getting the protection and durability out of Q2 Mohs and then a pop in gloss and water beading characteristics out of Q2 CanCoat. With good maintenance I would easily expect 3 years + out of this combination.

2. Q2 Mohs topped with Q2 Booster. This combination is very close to what you would receive in the GYEON Certified Detailer Q2 DuraBead product. Q2 Booster, like Q2 Bead in DuraBead, is a Fluorine based top coat designed to increase surface tension and throw the water beading characteristics through the roof. The Fluorine base of Q2 Booster is performing a chemical reaction with the Q2 Mohs underneath, and is not a true additional layer. Q2 Booster also needs to be applied before Q2 Mohs has cured, so it is best to apply them as a system and in sequence. Q2 Booster will not do much good say 6 months down the road. It can also be applied over any high quality coating.

3. The new Q2 SYNCRO Kit (Q2 Mohs and Q2 SKIN). This is a new product released at SEMA 2017 that is designed as the ultimate DIY coating, and used by professionals as well. It includes a 50 ml of Q2 Mohs as the base coating. And then we have a 30 ml of Q2 SKIN as the top coat. Q2 SKIN is a true additional layer of coating. It provides its own unique gloss that looks really good. It is silicon based and is designed to deliver maximum slickness. Very cool coating worth checking out. The SKIN top coat is close to what is included in the GYEON Certified Detailer Q2 DuraFlex kit.

I`d love to hear how you guys are using Q2 Mohs! And here to answer any questions!
 
I wonder if it's worth to save the extra Skin to apply say on the 1 year mark. To extend the longevity of the top layer effectiveness Syncro gives. Or is it so that when Skin wears off the coating is done. Just a thought that comes to mind with the 2 products combo. Understand that you are getting intrested to use Skin as a top coating on another coating than mohs.
 
TTQ B4U said:
First, I'm very happy with Syncro. Washed my wife's MK-C and again, the most hyrdophobic coating I've used yet. Her car had 10 days of heavy rain and dirt on it and the road film was so thick you could feel it with your eyes. With a simple fan pattern wand on my garden hose the dirt blasted off like it was dust. I was seriously impressed which having used a lot of products and coatings, I must say the level of it's cleanability is stellar.

That said, What's the difference with Pure? I know it's a thicker 1-coat coating that touts it's wet-candy gloss which I love, but how does it stack up against 2-coats of Mohs? Also, I have nearly a full bottle of skin left after having done several vehicles and combining the left overs thus I'm wondering if Skin can be applied over Pure?

Input appreciated.
Click to expand...

Good Day!

Very glad SYNCRO is performing well for you. I am continually impressed by that coating system. I would say it is really a thumbs up for SKIN. The slickness and water behavior that SKIN offers is pretty intense.

So Pure and Mohs on their own, both housed in the GYEON Professional category of coatings, are quite different in terms of their chemical makeup.

Mohs:
- Easier install (in my opinion) but requires 2 layers
- "harder" coating in the sense that it matters. Though both earn 9h readings which is how we measure vertical hardness, Mohs performs better as a layer of film over your paint that is designed to withstand penetration of UV and chemical damage for an extended period of time. Can Mohs be chemically etched, yes. But it keeps the damage in the coating layer. Great against UV.
- Very clear, clean, and crisp transfer of light. I always describe the Mohs gloss as crisp as compared to "wet".
- Can very easily take top coats to alter the look/effect ie: CanCoat, Booster, SKIN.
- Mohs, based on its chemistry delivers RELATIVELY "thin" layers, hence the minimum 2 layers. But they do not SHRINK! Very important.

Pure:
- Highly concentrated (80% by volume) SiO2 based coating
- Extremely glossy
- Withstands water spotting/etching of the coating itself very well
- designed as a single layer product
- Very cool water beading
- Can also be topped with CanCoat, Booster, and SKIN if you have it available from a SYNCRO kit.
- Delivers a single thick layer of film build, which also does not shrink as it cures.

Choosing one over the other is super tough and mostly personal preference.

If I am coating my own car, at home in a comfortable well lit garage with low humidity, and the car is silver, blue, red. And if I do not overly care about durability to the extent that I am fine with something that will likely last 2 years on my personal car where it is going to take some action and I am going to re polish and re coat at the 2 year ish mark, then a single layer of Pure is what I would be installing.

If I am in a shop setting where time and money matter, and I am looking to give the customer the most durability possible because this is an investment to them and they won't be polishing and re coating themselves then I am going 2 layers of Mohs.

You can probably install 2 layers of Mohs in the same amount of time as a single layer of Pure (environment depending).

Tough call on which to choose. I would leave it up to the environment. Low light and high humidity, then go with Mohs. Otherwise you're in good shape either way.
 
Jeff at Gyeon said:
Good Day!

Very glad SYNCRO is performing well for you. I am continually impressed by that coating system. I would say it is really a thumbs up for SKIN. The slickness and water behavior that SKIN offers is pretty intense.

So Pure and Mohs on their own, both housed in the GYEON Professional category of coatings, are quite different in terms of their chemical makeup.

Mohs:
- Easier install (in my opinion) but requires 2 layers
- "harder" coating in the sense that it matters. Though both earn 9h readings which is how we measure vertical hardness, Mohs performs better as a layer of film over your paint that is designed to withstand penetration of UV and chemical damage for an extended period of time. Can Mohs be chemically etched, yes. But it keeps the damage in the coating layer. Great against UV.
- Very clear, clean, and crisp transfer of light. I always describe the Mohs gloss as crisp as compared to "wet".
- Can very easily take top coats to alter the look/effect ie: CanCoat, Booster, SKIN.
- Mohs, based on its chemistry delivers RELATIVELY "thin" layers, hence the minimum 2 layers. But they do not SHRINK! Very important.

Pure:
- Highly concentrated (80% by volume) SiO2 based coating
- Extremely glossy
- Withstands water spotting/etching of the coating itself very well
- designed as a single layer product
- Very cool water beading
- Can also be topped with CanCoat, Booster, and SKIN if you have it available from a SYNCRO kit.
- Delivers a single thick layer of film build, which also does not shrink as it cures.

Choosing one over the other is super tough and mostly personal preference.

If I am coating my own car, at home in a comfortable well lit garage with low humidity, and the car is silver, blue, red. And if I do not overly care about durability to the extent that I am fine with something that will likely last 2 years on my personal car where it is going to take some action and I am going to re polish and re coat at the 2 year ish mark, then a single layer of Pure is what I would be installing.

If I am in a shop setting where time and money matter, and I am looking to give the customer the most durability possible because this is an investment to them and they won't be polishing and re coating themselves then I am going 2 layers of Mohs.

You can probably install 2 layers of Mohs in the same amount of time as a single layer of Pure (environment depending).

Tough call on which to choose. I would leave it up to the environment. Low light and high humidity, then go with Mohs. Otherwise you're in good shape either way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping to find time this weekend to Syncro My daily driver Q50 as it still performing amazingly well on my wife's vehicle. Her car is covered completely with pollen that is embedded in the water drops from a rain that we had recently so I'm hoping to get a nice video of it's self cleaning properties either early Saturday morning or Sunday. Depends on weather and my time available.
 
Hello all,

I have questions/doubts regarding the following Gyeon products comparison:

DURABEAD: MOHS Q2 + BEAD
MOHS +: BASE Q2 + PHOBIC
DURAFLEX: BASE Q2 + FLEXI

What are the differences between them in concept?

and in terms of:

-base coating MOHS Q2 versus BASE Q2

-Easier/ difficult to apply
-"Harder" coating
-Longer lasting
-Layers to apply
-Paint protection
-wet effect and shine
-etc

My intention is to use it on a metallic blue car (BMW Le Mans Blau)

Thanks in advance for your comments
 
E295 said:
Hello all,

I have questions/doubts regarding the following Gyeon products comparison:

DURABEAD: MOHS Q2 + BEAD
MOHS +: BASE Q2 + PHOBIC
DURAFLEX: BASE Q2 + FLEXI

What are the differences between them in concept?

and in terms of:

-base coating MOHS Q2 versus BASE Q2

-Easier/ difficult to apply
-"Harder" coating
-Longer lasting
-Layers to apply
-Paint protection
-wet effect and shine
-etc

My intention is to use it on a metallic blue car (BMW Le Mans Blau)

Thanks in advance for your comments
Click to expand...

Just so you know those are only for certified installer of coatings. And not a consumer products.

Gyeon One
Gyeon Pure
Gyeon Syncro
Is the options for consumers coatings. And then if you read above posts you can see which topper makes a consumer coating behave like the pro coatings. Wondering if Mohs is available outside of the Syncro kit?
 
E295 said:
Hello all,

I have questions/doubts regarding the following Gyeon products comparison:

DURABEAD: MOHS Q2 + BEAD
MOHS +: BASE Q2 + PHOBIC
DURAFLEX: BASE Q2 + FLEXI

What are the differences between them in concept?

and in terms of:

-base coating MOHS Q2 versus BASE Q2

-Easier/ difficult to apply
-"Harder" coating
-Longer lasting
-Layers to apply
-Paint protection
-wet effect and shine
-etc

My intention is to use it on a metallic blue car (BMW Le Mans Blau)

Thanks in advance for your comments
Click to expand...

As said below, the products you are mentioning are only available within the GYEON Certified Detailer Program and not available on the open market. But to offer some information:

- Q2 MOHS and Q2 BASE are quite different, but designed along the same path. Q2 BASE is a highly reactive single layer base coating designed only to be used in conjunction with a top coat. It is extremely durable and capable in terms of environmental protection and certainly the most advanced coating within the GYEON line.

The difference between Q2 MOHS+ and Q2 DURAFLEX (both using Q2 BASE) are the top coats included in each kit. They are quite different. The outer layer is the layer that see's the world and these two top coats present two very different sets of characteristics.

Flexi: Silicone based top coat, high gloss, very high in water beading, and extremely slick (this is the key factor)
Phobic: SiO2 based, high gloss, very chemical resistant, designed to promote more sheeting and evacuation of contaminant

Q2 DURABEAD uses 2 layers of the existing Q2 MOHS as the base coating and is topped with Q2 BEAD, which is a fluorine based top coat, does not apply a true additional layer but is a chemical reaction with the underlying Q2 MOHS to promote even more beading and self cleaning.

For the Certified Detailers, the choice comes down to the individual shop in terms of which product they choose to install and when, which is usually dictated by the specific climate the vehicles operate in and how they are used. Different approach to a daily driver vs a weekend toy car for example. Or different approach for a fair weather car vs a daily driver seeing all 4 seasons.

Hope that helps!
 
Desertnate said:
Wouldn't CanCoat fit that requirement?
Click to expand...

Perhaps but Skin just makes the paint so slick and so hydrophobic I wish that was available to be used with other products or even by itself. My Syncro coating is 5 months old so it's going great at this point but will be sad when it doesn't react the same way and I can't just re-apply Skin over it. I guess at that point I would consider CanCoat.
 
Slickness is all a matter of opinion, but CanCoat is in no way grabby. As far as the hydrophobic properties, the only think I've experienced which comes close is CQuartz UK. It's pretty amazing. From a durability standpoint, it might be a wash between Skin and CanCoat, but I'm going on six months right now with CanCoat and its still going strong.

Due to the lack of Skin being available for sale by itself, it might be a better bet to go with Mohs and top with CanCoat since CanCoat is readily available and seems to offer a nearly identical experience.
 
Desertnate said:
Wouldn't CanCoat fit that requirement?
Click to expand...

Skin is the slickest top coat I’ve used and there is no comparison when it comes to CanCoat in that regard.

Skin is also more hydrophobic that CanCoat. Not to mention a better self cleaning effect.

The downside is the Skin seems to fizzle out around the 6-7 month time frame from my experience. Budget experienced the same thing.

CanCoat is fantastic. I got 15 months paired with Gyeon Primer Polish.

CanCoat is a good choice to top Mohs since the water behavior of Mohs is a bit underwhelming. Let’s not forget the topper Booster which is a fluorine based top coat.
 
Jeff at Gyeon said:
As said below, the products you are mentioning are only available within the GYEON Certified Detailer Program and not available on the open market. But to offer some information:

- Q2 MOHS and Q2 BASE are quite different, but designed along the same path. Q2 BASE is a highly reactive single layer base coating designed only to be used in conjunction with a top coat. It is extremely durable and capable in terms of environmental protection and certainly the most advanced coating within the GYEON line.

The difference between Q2 MOHS+ and Q2 DURAFLEX (both using Q2 BASE) are the top coats included in each kit. They are quite different. The outer layer is the layer that see's the world and these two top coats present two very different sets of characteristics.

Flexi: Silicone based top coat, high gloss, very high in water beading, and extremely slick (this is the key factor)
Phobic: SiO2 based, high gloss, very chemical resistant, designed to promote more sheeting and evacuation of contaminant

Q2 DURABEAD uses 2 layers of the existing Q2 MOHS as the base coating and is topped with Q2 BEAD, which is a fluorine based top coat, does not apply a true additional layer but is a chemical reaction with the underlying Q2 MOHS to promote even more beading and self cleaning.

For the Certified Detailers, the choice comes down to the individual shop in terms of which product they choose to install and when, which is usually dictated by the specific climate the vehicles operate in and how they are used. Different approach to a daily driver vs a weekend toy car for example. Or different approach for a fair weather car vs a daily driver seeing all 4 seasons.

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I was aware they were for certfied detailers, but I was interested in understanding the differences.

I used Q2 Mohs Kit, the best available at that time, with great results.

I wanted to have all the information to decide if it´s worthy to get the car done by a certified detailer with those products or doing again myself the treatment with the open market available products.
 
E295 said:
Thanks for the info.

I was aware they were for certfied detailers, but I was interested in understanding the differences.

I used Q2 Mohs Kit, the best available at that time, with great results.

I wanted to have all the information to decide if it´s worthy to get the car done by a certified detailer with those products or doing again myself the treatment with the open market available products.
Click to expand...

Based on a daily use car, I think my choice would be Q2 Mohs+ (cert. detailer) or Q2 Mohs with cancoat.

Also very atractive Syncro but after some months, with not SKIN available for reload, will be a problem. May be not a good idea to use cancoat on top of syncro after 6/8 months.

I have very little free time so one of my priorities is the long lasting of the treatment.
 
Jeff at Gyeon said:
Good Day!

Very glad SYNCRO is performing well for you. I am continually impressed by that coating system. I would say it is really a thumbs up for SKIN. The slickness and water behavior that SKIN offers is pretty intense.

So Pure and Mohs on their own, both housed in the GYEON Professional category of coatings, are quite different in terms of their chemical makeup.

Mohs:
- Easier install (in my opinion) but requires 2 layers
- "harder" coating in the sense that it matters. Though both earn 9h readings which is how we measure vertical hardness, Mohs performs better as a layer of film over your paint that is designed to withstand penetration of UV and chemical damage for an extended period of time. Can Mohs be chemically etched, yes. But it keeps the damage in the coating layer. Great against UV.
- Very clear, clean, and crisp transfer of light. I always describe the Mohs gloss as crisp as compared to "wet".
- Can very easily take top coats to alter the look/effect ie: CanCoat, Booster, SKIN.
- Mohs, based on its chemistry delivers RELATIVELY "thin" layers, hence the minimum 2 layers. But they do not SHRINK! Very important.

Pure:
- Highly concentrated (80% by volume) SiO2 based coating
- Extremely glossy
- Withstands water spotting/etching of the coating itself very well
- designed as a single layer product
- Very cool water beading
- Can also be topped with CanCoat, Booster, and SKIN if you have it available from a SYNCRO kit.
- Delivers a single thick layer of film build, which also does not shrink as it cures.

Choosing one over the other is super tough and mostly personal preference.

If I am coating my own car, at home in a comfortable well lit garage with low humidity, and the car is silver, blue, red. And if I do not overly care about durability to the extent that I am fine with something that will likely last 2 years on my personal car where it is going to take some action and I am going to re polish and re coat at the 2 year ish mark, then a single layer of Pure is what I would be installing.

If I am in a shop setting where time and money matter, and I am looking to give the customer the most durability possible because this is an investment to them and they won't be polishing and re coating themselves then I am going 2 layers of Mohs.

You can probably install 2 layers of Mohs in the same amount of time as a single layer of Pure (environment depending).

Tough call on which to choose. I would leave it up to the environment. Low light and high humidity, then go with Mohs. Otherwise you're in good shape either way.
Click to expand...

I bought the Syncro kit for brand new Honda Ridgeline. Unfortunately the Mohs just barely had enough in the bottle for one coat - very disappointed knowing that it really needs two coats, (and I applied it carefully sus[ecting what ended up being reality...the instructions said to put on a thick coat and I knew that wasn't going to happen) I moved forward and applied the Skin, knowing that the even tinier bottle wouldn't cover everything. I guess this company thinks that everyone drives small cars. I wish they would've offered at least two sizes since i feel cheated after spending $200 and not getting the full effect. We'll see what Ive got when I start driving it again. But again, very disappointed.
 
RLove said:
I bought the Syncro kit for brand new Honda Ridgeline. Unfortunately the Mohs just barely had enough in the bottle for one coat - very disappointed knowing that it really needs two coats, (and I applied it carefully sus[ecting what ended up being reality...the instructions said to put on a thick coat and I knew that wasn't going to happen) I moved forward and applied the Skin, knowing that the even tinier bottle wouldn't cover everything. I guess this company thinks that everyone drives small cars. I wish they would've offered at least two sizes since i feel cheated after spending $200 and not getting the full effect. We'll see what Ive got when I start driving it again. But again, very disappointed.
Click to expand...

Wow to use 50ml and only get one coat. A ridgeline does not have that much paint. It is a truck after all and the rear end is missing. I have been able to apply 2 coats of cquartz on a Tahoe using a 30ml bottle.

I was able to coat my dads 2015 Impala (the new body) with 2 coats of Mohs and one coat of Skin easily and it is a large sedan. Even had left over product.

Was this the first coating you have ever applied?
 
I would agree. 50ml is enough for several vehicles. I single coated a Toyota Highlander, a BMW 4-series coupe, and a Honda Fit with a 50ml bottle of CQuartz UK.

I wonder if that much coating was applied all at once will function like two coats or whether most of excess product was removed while buffing it out?
 
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