Strange OptiCoat happening

Chris@Optimum said:
I don't use IPA at any dilution, but that's a personal choice because I don't like the lack of lubrication and I believe it could re-deposit what it loosens due to its fast flash time.

The directions Optimum gives is to follow "Optimum" polishes with IPA pre coating and I am positive that is good info because Optimum polishes can be followed with nothing more than a water dampened microfiber and be ready to coat.

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Gotcha. So if we polished a car using any other polish other than OPT's, what does OPT recommend to ensure proper bonding? Still a 15% IPA wipe down, or something different?
 
I would not depend on a wipe down alone to remove oils/fillers in non Optimum polishes. Some are quite durable and can last for a month with normal washes. I would use a paint safe apc or degreaser and make sure all beading was killed during the rinse...then if you want to do a wipe down you can. Dawn is a very cheap and readily available option. Even with the wash instead of the wiped own, you may have to go over it more than once if you see beading the first rinse.


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I'm the OP of this thread and basically I think I learned my lesson. If your going to use OC, use all Opti product to prep. Until they come out with something else, that means at least polishing the vehicle with Optimum Finish Polish. I used Wolfgang polishes and learned the hard way. IPA just doesn't cut it all the time.

The thing is, I still have this vehicle and likely will be re-applying OC some time in the future because the paint is thin (~70 microns) in certain spots.

OC is still holding up on 8 of my wheels for over a year - no polishing was done there.
 
swanicyouth said:
I'm the OP of this thread and basically I think I learned my lesson. If your going to use OC, use all Opti product to prep. Until they come out with something else, that means at least polishing the vehicle with Optimum Finish Polish.
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I'll second this.

I have 2 vehicles I applied OC to late last summer/early fall (northern hemisphere), and OC is holding up fine. Both vehicles were polished with OP II before applying OC. One vehicle I had initially gone over with M205 (one of my favorite mild-to-medium defect correctors), but that was leaving oils behind. I re-polished with OP II and the results were obvious.
Also, FWIW, I wiped down both cars with Eraser after polishing. However, I'm not a believer in Eraser and in the future will likely go the IPA route prior to applying OC. Why? Mostly a gut feeling, but I did specifically test that Eraser could not remove the remnants of M205. Had I done M205 + Eraser before OC, I'm confident now that OC would not have adhered. Stick with OP II (or OFP, it sounds like) before applying OC.
 
coredump4 said:
I'll second this.

I have 2 vehicles I applied OC to late last summer/early fall (northern hemisphere), and OC is holding up fine. Both vehicles were polished with OP II before applying OC. One vehicle I had initially gone over with M205 (one of my favorite mild-to-medium defect correctors), but that was leaving oils behind. I re-polished with OP II and the results were obvious.
Also, FWIW, I wiped down both cars with Eraser after polishing. However, I'm not a believer in Eraser and in the future will likely go the IPA route prior to applying OC. Why? Mostly a gut feeling, but I did specifically test that Eraser could not remove the remnants of M205. Had I done M205 + Eraser before OC, I'm confident now that OC would not have adhered. Stick with OP II (or OFP, it sounds like) before applying OC.
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Eraser basically is IPA + water + surfcant(s) + coloring. It is very unlikely that an IPA + water solutions will remove more than Eraser. Yes, you can make the IPA percentage higher but one of the issues with IPA is that it flashes off quickly and can simply redeposit what it has lifted. I believe the surfactant(s) in Eraser are intended to address that and to provide greater lubrication. There may well be an argument for stronger solvents than Eraser but IPA alone does not appear to be the path to that destination.
 
I like Eraser prior to waxes , sealants, or CarPro products - but, it does seem to leave something behind. There is something in it that reduces the friction of the surface and helps to repel dust after it flashes off. I don't think its IPA or a surfactant.

Whatever it is, it's obviously OK with the CarPro silane type coatings. With OptiCoat? Who knows.
 
There are people out there with OC on their cars for over 3 years. I don't think Eraser was out then. Just about everyone was using IPA, including me to do a final wipe down mainly to remove polishing oils. These cars are still wearing OC and going strong.
 
if using opti-coat or a sensitive coating I would not trust or rely on a low % IPA mix to degrease the paint. I know its expensive but Gtechniq offers Panel Wipe. I know its just an expensive body shop type wax and grease remover, but the one gtechniq use's is a really workable formula that doesnt flash too fast and is pretty darn safe in my experience. After using a bottle there is absolutely no doubt in my mind its way more effective than CarPro eraser or IPA. For the time and cost it takes to properly detail, polish and coat a car I think a few extra bucks should be dedicated to the correct product instead of trying to skimp and save using IPA and water.
 
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