Strange stain in paint

That's what I thought, but he says he hand sanded (I guess he could have used a 3" disc by hand).



No, a mil is .001" (a "thousandth"). The total film build on a new car is usually about .006".

A thousandth of a what? Are we talking Metric or Imperial?
 
By "mil." you mean milliliters?
Because 1 millimeter = 1000 microns (One micrometer is 1 meter divided by 1 billion)
I'm no mathematician but I'm pretty sure a milliliter is a measure of liquid. I was talking about hair and paint film build, so no. What I mean by a mil. is one mil. a measure of thickness of solid matter.

I'm curious to hear from the OP as to what the mark was.
 
Originally Posted by bmwgalore
By "mil." you mean milliliters?
Because 1 millimeter = 1000 microns (One micrometer is 1 meter divided by 1 billion)



I'm no mathematician but I'm pretty sure a milliliter is a measure of liquid. I was talking about hair and paint film build, so no. What I mean by a mil. is one mil. a measure of thickness of solid matter.

I'm curious to hear from the OP as to what the mark was.


Yeah, that was my typo. But read the post again again I typed "millimeter" on the second line, so quit trolling.

Anyway, now I know he was talking in inches.

Back on topic now.
 
Did the etching look like one of the two centered under the camera in this photo (which is actually more of a checking situation caused by bird poo) or was it more like the etching under the reflection of my hand?

96ChevyBerretta001.jpg

Hey Dave,
It was more of a combo. The center of the poop looked like the middle two and the outer edges were like the one on the left.
 
The customer was extremely pleased even though I informed him of the stain, which for the life of me I couldn't understand why he couldn't see what I was talking about. He kept saying it looks like a reflection :confused: At any rate, I took $50 off my bill and called it a day. It still bugs me though, that 6 or 7 strokes of 3000 grit would possibly thin out the clear that much. I still feel bad about it. Thinking about putting some opti-guard on it. We'll see. Thanks for all your help fellers! Especially you Dave :urtheman:
 
So what's the bottom line? Did you go through the clear, or what?? :p :D

It seems to me that I may have thinned it out. I didn't want to touch it anymore for fear of seeing color rubbed off. Lesson learned. Clear is getting thinner and thinner.
 
It seems to me that I may have thinned it out. I didn't want to touch it anymore for fear of seeing color rubbed off. Lesson learned. Clear is getting thinner and thinner.

Eh...you can never tell what the dealer did to it before your customer even got the car.
 
this is really strange, since I'm currently detailing a 2010 Range Rover with the exact same circle in the drivers side door. It's missing all of the metallic flake.
I thought I did it with the buffer. But it's not coming out with cleaner wax. Really Strange!
 
this is really strange, since I'm currently detailing a 2010 Range Rover with the exact same circle in the drivers side door. It's missing all of the metallic flake.

I thought I did it with the buffer. But it's not coming out with cleaner wax. Really Strange!


Do you see the color of the basecoat on your applicator?

If you do... that's a bad sign...


When working on clear coats paint you should only see the color of the compound, polish or cleaner/wax you're using on your pads.

If you're working on a blue car for example, with a clear coat and you see blue coming off on your buffing pad or even a hand applicator pad that means you're pulling color and that means somewhere you've went through the clear layer of paint.


:(
 
You know Mike keeps saying how the clear on new cars keeps getting thinner and thinner...

I met with two engineeres for two high end car companies and they were bragging about how they were working on technology to enable them to use less clear and thus build cars faster and cheaper.

I about fainted... then did my best to explain what this means to ANYONE that would work on the paint into the future.

They didn't care.


:dunno:
 
Great picture there Dave showing the two types of Bird Droppings...


For anyone reading this into the future, here's the skinny...

You can fix a Type I

You normally cannot fix a Type II because factory paint is to thin.

Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings

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Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings
  • Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etching
  • Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching

There are two common types of damage associated with bird dropping etchings;



Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etching
Type I Topical Stain Etchings are usually only topical, that is shallow enough that they can be completely removed or at least greatly improved to the point where they are difficult to see.

This type of etching can be removed using a clear coat safe compound or polish by hand or machine. Hand removal is almost always more efficient as you can exert more pressure to a small area and thus keep your work area isolated to just the affected area. By machine you can use a Spot Repair System, again to keep the work area isolated to just the affected area.

Photo courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com
M105RemoveBirdDropping002c.jpg



Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching
Type II Wrinkled Etchings are usually too deep to fix safely. The problem is the paint fractures, (splits apart in tiny lines,), or wrinkles as the paint swells and bunches together. In both instances, the resulting defect is throughout the clear layer of paint and not topical. Thus trying to remove it will require removing so much clear paint that you will likely expose the basecoat, or colored layer of paint which has a dull appearance. For this reason it's not safe to try to remove a Type II Bird Dropping Wrinkled or Fractured Etching.

Photo courtesy of AutogeekOnline.com
BirdDroppingEtchingWrinkles.jpg



:)
 
nope! no color on the pads (thank goodness!)

it's a black vehicle, with a black circular shape. The black circle has no flake in it. The flake is surrounding the black circle.
 
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