You can use the CarPro Glass pads with CerriGlass with a DA without issue or without being difficult. You have to use the CarPro pads and you have to keep the polish very wet with water when polishing. The CarPro pads will not inflict scratches, if you keep the polish wet. You can work the polish for a long time or multiple applications for defect removal or just do 1 or 2 passes to clean bonded contaminants or water spots off the glass.
Either way, the polish doesn't have to be "worked" for a long time to "finish" haze/scratch free (as in there is no haze/scratches inflicted by the polishing process if done correctly). Following with a foam pad isn't recommended, required, or necessary. It takes a little while, but not "hours" IME. Maybe 45 minutes actual polishing time to remove normal wiper scratches from an SUV windshield.
A small car can take less time. A 2BM wash after polishing is necessary, as CerriGlass will fling on the car. The polish should almost be the consistency of water when you use it from "keep it wet", and the pads are about 1/8" thick - so they don't absorb much liquid that's why it flings.
CerriGlass is abrasive, so you don't want to do a rinseless or waterless wash to get it off your paint. You want to remove as much as possible from the paint with a pressure washer, then carefully do a 2BM wash when done.
The only way to streak free glass IMHO are the CarPro Fast Glass towels with DI water. Do not use chemicals - all chemicals CAN streak. DI water drying on a clean window will not streak, as there is nothing left behind to leave streaks. All the water evaporates 100%. You have to clean/prep the FG towel first so it is 100% clean, saturated with DI water, and free of any soap/mineral residue from previous laundering.
That being said, IME I clean the windows first (if they are "dirty") with whatever glass cleaner (or ONR 1:16) and whatever towel I have laying around to remove dirt. If the windows are really dirty, I just use paper towels and toss them.
IMO ONR 1:16 works pretty much better than any glass cleaner out there for glass cleaning. I also like the Pinnacle Glass Cleaner because it leaves "rain repellent" behind. The Pinnacle GC seems to be quite similar to a rinseless/waterless solution, as it dries "slick" like it's cleaning is polymer based, as opposed to being surfactant based only. The FG towels will remove any streaks left behind as a second step, so It doesn't matter much what you use to get the dirt off.
The BEST procedure to use the FG towels for me is so first soak them in DI water and wring out. Then repeat, and wring out as much as possible. This helps remove any left over ions or minerals that could be left in the towels from the towel washing process.
If you believe your towels are not being rinsed 100% clean with your towel washing procedure, you may want to rinse them well in the sink first. Almost all soaps, even MF soaps, do not rinse 100% clean in a normal single / wash rinse cycle from a washer.
If you don't believe me, grab a clean towel and wet it well with water - but don't rinse it out. Then wring the clean towel out in a clean glass or measuring cup (glass). Then, put that cup under a strong stream of warm water from the faucet and you will see some bubbles from left over soap in the towel bubbling out of your wringed out water glass. This is left over soap in almost any towel and its pretty much normal.
Multiple rinse cycles and rinse cycles with vinegar can help minimize this. It doesn't seem to cause an issue on paint, but on glass it can be a different story. This is my experience using a single rinse cycle with my washer. My washer is normal, I imagine other washers are similar.
