Stripping Wax and sealant

The only reason I would think it would be necessary to "strip" the wax or sealant off of a car would be if the clay wasn't going to remove the wax. I would think that if the clay wasn't going to remove the sealant or wax off of the car that it would also not remove all of the embedded contaminants. And something tells me that polishing over embedded contaminants is something we generally don't want to do when in pursuit of the perfect finish. Seems like a great way to get pigtails to me.

Either way I always find myself spraying the wet car down with diluted APC+, then washing it with Dawn if it has been waxed/sealed. I am looking to get some Chemical Guys to strip the wax for me as I'm not sure how paint safe APC+ is.
 
Is it possible to remove wax, but not sealant? If so how would that process go about. Or should I not worry so much about applying a sealant AND wax but be more vigelant with the wax?
 
While reading this thread I remembered I have Meguiar's Deep Crystal trio in my arsenal. Have any of you used the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner? What is your take on this product?

Also, in general, how do you apply the pre-wax cleaner (what pad and speed if using a DA/Flex, or by hand)?
 
jayhkr said:
Is it possible to remove wax, but not sealant? If so how would that process go about. Or should I not worry so much about applying a sealant AND wax but be more vigelant with the wax?
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No not at all, you will remove both with whatever you're using.
 
Da Fats said:
Gritos Garage makes a paint prep product that will get you back down to just the paint. I am thinking about pulling the trigger on it but not sure if its worth the money. I too am on a quest to find the perfect NON FILLING NON ABRADING pre wax cleaner.

Chris
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You found it in Griots. Why would you care if it fills or not? If you polished and did an IPA wipe down it will show the true finish. If it's perfect, a filler will do no harm. If it's not perfect the fillers will help hide the imperfections. You win either way.
 
i am not sure why some of you are posting the citrus wash clear from CG...it is specifically forumlated to NOT strip wax or sealants
 
Bullitt AK said:
i am not sure why some of you are posting the citrus wash clear from CG...it is specifically forumlated to NOT strip wax or sealants
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You are probably thinking about CG Citrus Wash Shampoo
 
maximus20895 said:
CWS_302_clear-2.jpg
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I can't find this on their website?
 
Bullitt AK said:
i am not sure why some of you are posting the citrus wash clear from CG...it is specifically forumlated to NOT strip wax or sealants
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Here's the direction at the bottom of their page for using it as a paint cleanser.


Directions For Use::

  1. [*]Extremely concentrated and highly versatile 1 cap full with 3-5 gallons of water for a superior wash.
    [*]As a paintwork cleanser dilute
    1oz with 1 gallon water for superior surface cleaner to remove built up grime and leftover wax.
    [*]Always start by washing the tires and
    wheels first.
    [*]Don't use the same wash water on your car's paint as you do your tires and wheels.
    [*]Always wash vehicle when the
    surface is cool.
    [*]Rinse the vehicle with water to remove loose grit and surface dirt.
    [*]Start washing from the top down and rinse the car
    often.
    [*]Frequent rinsing is important if you are washing on a warm day.
    [*]Do not allow the soapy water to dry on your paint.
    [*]Use a final rinse of free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose) allowing the water to sheet
 
I do it about 4 times a year. Each time I've been applying a new brand of wax over a sealant. The thing is, and I've tested this rather extensively, there is no chemical wash that effectively strips modern sealants. What I mean is, there is nothing you can put on your bucket to strip a sealant that is healthy and was applied correctly.

I've used Citrus Wash 7oz to 4 gallons, and it won't strip sealants. Griots Paint Prep, Eraser, IPA 70%, and Sonus All In 1 1:10 won't either. They will strip waxes, but not sealants like Wolfgang, BFWD, and Powerlock.

There are wipedown products like Prepsol and solvents. The best paint cleaner I've found is Prima Amigo. Unlike other paint cleaners, its works very well with a DA.

IME, the worse thing you can do is just keep layering a bunch of different waxes on top of each other over and over many months. This makes the paint cloudy.
 
swanicyouth said:
The thing is, and I've tested this rather extensively, there is no chemical wash that effectively strips modern sealants. What I mean is, there is nothing you can put on your bucket to strip a sealant that is healthy and was applied correctly.
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I'm beginning to believe this also--After a couple of coats of HD POXY over the winter I put on a coat of Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax 10 weeks ago just for some extra protection when I had to leave the car at the airport for a week.

Yesterday in prep for polishing washed with 3 gallons of water mixed with 3 OZs of CG Citrus Wash (the original for stripping which is still available) and 3 OZs of 3D Citrus Degreaser. Don't have a foam gun, but wash inside the garage so was able to have at least 5 minutes dwell time by doing small sections and constantly reapplying the wash mixture. Didn't really make much of a dent in the ULW--slikness was gone, but still plenty of beading. However, the car sure was squeaky clean.
 
loudog2 said:
Here's the direction at the bottom of their page for using it as a paint cleanser.



Directions For Use::

  1. [*]Extremely concentrated and highly versatile 1 cap full with 3-5 gallons of water for a superior wash.
    [*]As a paintwork cleanser dilute
    1oz with 1 gallon water for superior surface cleaner to remove built up grime and leftover wax.
    [*]Always start by washing the tires and
    wheels first.
    [*]Don't use the same wash water on your car's paint as you do your tires and wheels.
    [*]Always wash vehicle when the
    surface is cool.
    [*]Rinse the vehicle with water to remove loose grit and surface dirt.
    [*]Start washing from the top down and rinse the car
    often.
    [*]Frequent rinsing is important if you are washing on a warm day.
    [*]Do not allow the soapy water to dry on your paint.
    [*]Use a final rinse of free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose) allowing the water to sheet
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I've been detailing for about five or six years. Used different products from different companies.. When it comes to cleaning my wife's new Mercedes-Benz, my new jeep and new Dodge Diesel, the ONLY thing I wash them with is made by Chemical guys and it's called Honey Dew: Chemical Guys EQP_304 - MTM Next Generation Professional Foam Cannon & Honeydew Snow Foam Cleanser (1 Gal)

It's probably over kill and more time consuming but I "always" foam all three vehicles down "twice." Water rinse with pressure washer, first application of the foam, another water rinse and then the second application of foam and again, water rinse.

Does this strip wax or sealants? No! However it will thoroughly clean all abrasive contaminants away from your paint. It is a concentrated product ~ 1/2 oz to 2 gallons of water.

I am a firm believer that the less you touch your paint with any cloth (Microfiber drying towels) the more minute swirls/scratches you have to contend with. I always thoroughly dry the vehicles with "air."

Once air dried, I never use "run your fingers across the paint to see if you can feel any contaminants. Additionally I never put my hand in a plastic bag and run that across my paint. After the last foam comes off and it's air dried, I then use a clay bar with a detail spray and completely clay the entire vehicles. As I clay, I use a detailing light and inspect each panel for any imperfections.

The vehicles get clayed every three months. When I'm done I take a water hose and run water over the hood so I can see what kind of water bubbles are present.

I use two products: Polish shines and a good premium paste wax protects. Prior to applying those two products I do the 'ol 2x2x2x2 test area if I see any minute scratches or swirls that are produced when you remove the above two products.

The "only" sealant I use on my vehicles is detail spray and that is on the front of every vehicle. Apply, wait one minute, wipe off. You do get a nice shine but more importantly I use this product because bugs normally spray right off as soon as I get back home. I also take this with me on trips so again I can remove all the bugs.

Does the clay take the sealant off? No, not all of it but that's okay because more will be sprayed back on the vehicle. Clay does remove the polish and paste wax.

After buffing the test section and once I get the swirls or scratches removed, I then buff the entire vehicle. And yes, there are times I will only do a hand detail. It can't be avoided but when you are removing scratches/swirls, that is the only time I will ever put a M/Fiber towel to the surface of any vehicle.

There are hundreds of wax and sealant removers out there and the worst thing one can do is to try a different one each time they completely detail their vehicles. You need to find the right one (if there is such a thing) and ONLY use that.
 
slidder said:
The vehicles get clayed every three months. When I'm done I take a water hose and run water over the hood so I can see what kind of water bubbles are present.

I use two products: Polish shines and a good premium paste wax protects. Prior to applying those two products I do the 'ol 2x2x2x2 test area if I see any minute scratches or swirls that are produced when you remove the above two products.

The "only" sealant I use on my vehicles is detail spray and that is on the front of every vehicle. Apply, wait one minute, wipe off. You do get a nice shine but more importantly I use this product because bugs normally spray right off as soon as I get back home. I also take this with me on trips so again I can remove all the bugs.

Does the clay take the sealant off? No, not all of it but that's okay because more will be sprayed back on the vehicle. Clay does remove the polish and paste wax.

After buffing the test section and once I get the swirls or scratches removed, I then buff the entire vehicle. And yes, there are times I will only do a hand detail. It can't be avoided but when you are removing scratches/swirls, that is the only time I will ever put a M/Fiber towel to the surface of any vehicle.
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Damn someone is ZEALOUS about their paint!!! ......Good for you man, better safe than sorry. :applause:

I Dont think claying is necessary that many time a year if the LSP is kept up and maintained weekly... but to each his own.... and i will admit time spent alone on a car can be relaxing and rewarding so I can understand. :D

:dblthumb2:


I only Clay 4 times a year if a client is paying me to do so, or i am testing all sorts of different things on my DD......lol :doh: maybe i do clay 4 times a year because im always testing some product or another < ! >

I DEFINiTELY AGREE WITH WHAT HE SAID HERE THOUGH:
slidder said:
It's probably over kill and more time consuming but I "always" foam all three vehicles down "twice." Water rinse with pressure washer, first application of the foam, another water rinse and then the second application of foam and again, water rinse.

Does this strip wax or sealants? No! However it will thoroughly clean all abrasive contaminants away from your paint. It is a concentrated product ~ 1/2 oz to 2 gallons of water.
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and this to a good extent also [its common sense]:

slidder said:
I am a firm believer that the less you touch your paint with any cloth (Microfiber drying towels) the more minute swirls/scratches you have to contend with.
Click to expand...
 
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