stronger than M105?

JDMStanced

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Are there products out there that are more aggressive than M105?
M105 was slightly working after 4 times of trying on my strong water stain on rims. clear coated
I don't have a DA or anything like that i prefer a product that i can use by hand
thanks
 
Are there products out there that are more aggressive than M105?
M105 was slightly working after 4 times of trying on my strong water stain on rims. clear coated
I don't have a DA or anything like that i prefer a product that i can use by hand
thanks

M105 is pretty much the top of the line on cutting power. I suggest picking up a machine. It will save you a tremendous amount of time, and it will leave your arm less tired. :props: It's pretty much impossible to remove defects without a machine unless you spend 1 day on 1 2x2 spot.
 
How about getting a drill and a Mothers power ball to use with your M-105?

I recently bought a compound called "TOTAL" from Farécla that (by Machine) cuts faster than M-105 and finishes just as well but dusts a lot more. There are no fillers in it but it costs $45 a quart.
 
I would save up for a DA. You really wont be sorry. If you already have buffing liquids then for about $150 you can have a DA, backing plate, and a pack of 5 pads. Plenty to get you started in the polishing addiction.
 
M105 was slightly working after 4 times of trying on my strong water stain on rims. clear coated

I've always been told the clear used on factory painted wheels is much harder than the clear paint used on body panels both OEM and in the Refinishing world, (body shops).

This being true then removing water stains will as you state probably be very difficult as you're basically trying to abrade the paint by hand.

You can get more aggressive compounds but they won't leave as nice a finish and the M105 due to the abrasive technology.


Questions?

How did the rims get stained in the first place?

Is there a remedy to make sure it doesn't happen again?


:)
 
white vinegar

Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't... I touch on the topic of vinegar in this article,


Tips for removing Type I Water Spots




Excerpt...

VinegarA common recommendation for removing water spots is to wipe the paint with vinegar, they kind you find in a kitchen pantry. If the water spots are in fact mineral deposits sitting on the top of the paint then this may work but you won't know until you try.

How Vinegar Works - (If and when it works)
Common cooking vinegar or food grade vinegar is a weak form of acetic acid, which is has low pH. Mineral deposits are just that, minerals that are either dissolved in water or embodied in water and when the water evaporates it leaves the physical mineral behind on the surface.

There are different types of minerals in water but one of the most common is Calcium Hydroxide. Calcium Hydroxide has a high pH, if the mineral deposits on your car's paint are Calcium Hydroxide, then the low pH Acetic Acid in the Vinegar will act to neutralize the high pH of the Calcium Hydroxide and either dissolve the minerals or break their bond to the paint and at that point you would be able to wipe them off the surface.

If the hard water spots are some other type of mineral deposits, then there's a good chance the acetic acid in the vinegar will have no effect and in a worse case scenario cause more harm than good. This is why in the forum world you'll often read accounts from some people where they share how great vinegar worked for them in their situation but then you'll read accounts by other people where the vinegar had no effect.

The problem with using Vinegar is that the acetic acid will act to remove any wax or paint sealant previously applied to the paint, wiping a waxed finish with vinegar certainly won't add more protection and what's the opposite of adding?

The other problem with using vinegar is that in and of itself it doesn't provide any extra lubricating ability outside of being a liquid. So using it with some type of cloth, for example a microfiber towel will not be as gentle as using a product formulated by a chemist specifically to be wiped over polished finish. And if fact if there are physical minerals on the surface then wiping them off without some type of added lubricity could in fact lead to scratching of the finish.

The two products show above, Duragloss 505 and Meguiar's M47 are manufactured by reputable companies and I'm confident the chemists have taken into account everything involved with creating a product for Joe Consumer to potentially wipe a clear coated finish to remove mineral deposits.

Remember clear coat paints are scratch-sensitive, that is they scratch easily. I think it's safe to assume that any product created by a reputable company for wiping off mineral deposits will include both lubricating agents plus glossing agents along with their proprietary ingredients for forcing the minerals to release their bond to the surface.

Key Benefits
The lubricating agents help prevent potential scratching from the minerals on the surface and the glossing agents restore a just detailed look to the finish.

These two included features to the products are important to car owners even thought most car owners probably don't even know they want and need these benefits from the product.

Vinegar offers neither of these benefits.


More information in the entire article and here's the links to all my water spot articles... (for the OP or Lurkers)

Water Spots

New -
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots

How to remove water spots by hand

Tips for removing Type I Water Spots






:)
 
I've never used it but I think Mothers Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound is stronger. It says it can remover orange peel, it's like liquid sand paper. But it would have to be polished out to remove the compounding scratches.
 
hes not asking about paint lol rims is the post I saw.


It reads like he's talking about clear coated rims, thus he's working on paint.

JDMStanced said:
strong water stain on rims. clear coated


But heck yeah.. he can try vineagar... people recommend it all the time that's why I did some research and included it in the article I linked above. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't for all the reasons I outlined.


:confused:
 
I've never used it but I think Mothers Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound is stronger. It says it can remover orange peel, it's like liquid sand paper.

But it would have to be polished out to remove the compounding scratches.


It's the part in bold that starts to make polishing water spots out of clear coated rims a time-consuming, intricate process.

Hopefully the root cause has been eliminated.


True story, guy asks for help removing water spots off his cars paint caused by a sprinkler. The he says his parking space is by a sprinkler. Point being it won't help to remove water spots if after removing them you don't eliminate the root cause.



:)
 
I bought these rims off of my friend. They were on there when he got his car.
People just threw in some product names. Do you have any info on them, or proven to work?
Looks like
Meguiar's M47 Marine-RV Hard Water Spot Remover is one step higher than m105?
 
i'm also thinking about sanding and polishing with mother's mag and aluminum by hand.
This will be OK, right?
 
I finished sanding down a lip. The water stain is removed from 360 grit. I tried out Mother's mag n alum on one spot. But i still see some scratches from sanding, and looks hazy..
did i do something wrong?
 
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