Suggestions on alternative MF towels for wax/sealant and polish removal

MrOneEyedBoh

MrOneEyedBoh

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I used to use TRC Eagle edgeless 350 rags for years but It seems that they dont really bite into stuff when removing say polishes or waxes/sealants. Is it just the nature of the long non-looped fibers? Is there something else worth using that is considered good?

TRC has WAY too many rags available lol....

If the Eagle Edgeless 350 is stillt he go to, I'll just deal with it and get more just in other colors and use them for specific things. Such as red for wax, blue for polish etc.

Maybe my towels are just, dead maybe? They're about 5 years old but look great!
 
The Roman from Luxury Microfibers

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Griots has a wax removing PFM that is amazing. I like the creature edgeless 420 gsm with a long nap on one side considerable to the eagle 350’s and then a short nap that works well for tougher removing product. I recently used the 365gsm edgeless and it was also nice. Much cheaper than the eagles and I feel just as nice



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a microfiber like the gold plush jr's (one side plush other low) or any which are in the 300-420gm (or so) range will be good to use all around. shaggy towels tend to mop/drag around (more wipes to remove product), and lint too (better at absorbency). i use to use microfibers like that years ago when i discovered the eurow shag towels (the first of it's kind to come to the auto car care world) over a decade ago, but don't really use them anymore for one of the reasons you mentioned. i wouldn't get caught up in having tons of different microfibers for every little thing and just keep it simple, and your wallet will thank you too...
 
The 365 and 300 from TRC are my go to for compound and polish removal. They are soft yet really pull the spent compound/polish off with ease. I’d save the Eagles for QD work or final wipedowns.
 
FUNX650 said:
The MF-towels, that I’ve listed below, are described to be woven specifically for wax and polish removal. As such, and in IMO:
they can be considered very good; and are definitely worth using.

{And they’re a real bargain—at only $1.67
each—when purchased in lots of 12...:dblthumb2: }

12 Pack Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths


Bob
Click to expand...


I've been switching over to these towels for,

  1. Removing polishes
  2. Removing waxes and sealants
  3. The final buff when wiping off ceramic paint coatings
  4. Waterless ceramic coating washes
  5. Rinseless ceramic coating washes

Easily my favorite microfiber towel.

Buy 24 and then wash them together, dry them together and store them where they will stay clean and uncontaminated.

Nice towels.


I showcase them in these two articles and recommend them to my own customers. I would do this if I didn't trust they were bubba-proof.


How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach


How to maintain a Coated Garage Queen by Mike Phillips


:)
 
Klasse Act said:
The Roman from Luxury Microfibers
Click to expand...


Just to let you know, your post has been reported. One of the comments in the report is that you continually recommend these towels. I haven't paid attention and I'm not a Moderator on this forum but the real Mods are now looking to see if this is so.


Maybe post recommendations for the Roman towels on the Luxury Microfiber car detailing discussion forum?



:dunno:
 
Point taken Mike and I'm sure it wasn't you who reported me because your far to important to run around being the forum police since you've got the traveling road show, posting about the traveling road show, promoting the traveling road show and everything else you do for AG, hell, I've even talked about the traveling road show and the promotion of the traveling road show here but I'm sure I know who it was though. I see products not sold here on AG talked about all the time but I have plenty of time to join that guy who probably reported me, where's my badge so I can join the force, a force for good, a force what's right and just

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Thanks guys. When I first joined here and got into detailing I was told that I could pretty much use all MFs for whatever I wanted to in terms of touching the paint. Removing sealant, wax, polish etc. But lately Ive been getting recommendations to NOT use them like that and to have dedicated ones for polish removal, dedicated ones for wax/sealant, and so on... I use old towels for dirty work, but looking to separate the ones for waxes and polishes.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
I was told
Click to expand...

Yep.... lots of people telling everyone how to do everything...



MrOneEyedBoh said:
have dedicated ones for polish removal, dedicated ones for wax/sealant, and so on...
Click to expand...

I agree that there are towels that do some jobs better than others and visa-versa.

I've watched you since you joined this forum and you've come a long ways. Most important thing is after investing in quality towels is to have a process in place to wash, dry, inspect and store your towels.


Take care of your towels and they will take care of you.


How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Yep.... lots of people telling everyone how to do everything...





I agree that there are towels that do some jobs better than others and visa-versa.

I've watched you since you joined this forum and you've come a long ways. Most important thing is after investing in quality towels is to have a process in place to wash, dry, inspect and store your towels.


Take care of your towels and they will take care of you.


How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars



:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike! Im just a shade tree detailer that likes to do things himself... if I can improve on that, great! Ive taught a few people along the way too. Ive read that link a million times lol, and I still practice, what I think, is good MF maintenance.


I guess I shoud've been more specific on what THEY told me to do lol. Basically they were talking about the not all wax/sealants come out of MFs thus can cross contaminate say something used when ceramic coating. So say I have a MF that I used last month to remove wax, and then I wash it and so on but then I use that same towel to do an IPA wipe down on a car that Im going to ceramic coat... That towel MIGHT deposit some residue that would or could hinder the ceramic from bonding.
 
Am I safe with my Rag Company vs. Brand LM comparison then...or should I go with Brand X? I am actually using the Eagle edgeless towels this afternoon on my buddy's 79' RX-7, using them along with N914 in my BlackFire hand pump for a rinseless wash and finally topping it with IGL Premier, plenty of AG sold products represented here...oh wait, ALL OF THEM

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Klasse Act said:
Am I safe with my Rag Company vs. Brand LM comparison then...or should I go with Brand X? I am actually using the Eagle edgeless towels this afternoon on my buddy's 79' RX-7, using them along with N914 in my BlackFire hand pump for a rinseless wash and finally topping it with IGL Premier, plenty of AG sold products represented here...oh wait, ALL OF THEM

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Click to expand...

Probably safe on AUtopia cause if you say LM is better, then it’s bad business here since it takes sales away


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MrOneEyedBoh said:
I used to use TRC Eagle edgeless 350 rags for years but It seems that they dont really bite into stuff when removing say polishes or waxes/sealants. Is it just the nature of the long non-looped fibers? Is there something else worth using that is considered good?

TRC has WAY too many rags available lol....

If the Eagle Edgeless 350 is stillt he go to, I'll just deal with it and get more just in other colors and use them for specific things. Such as red for wax, blue for polish etc.

Maybe my towels are just, dead maybe? They're about 5 years old but look great!
Click to expand...

If it's seems like the towel don't do the work as it did when you bought. It may be done and downgraded to work that don't is as dependet on the high soaking ability. So it may be worth to get a new set of towels as they can look great but the function is not there any more.

As time has gone by and I have tested out a lot of different mf towels. I have some kind of nap that works better for me with different applications and removal. If I stumble on a product that get problem with I grabb another kind of nap. Sometimes it works better and sometimes it's the product it self or an user error from me. That is why I have different kind of mf towels to dial in what works best for me. Useally the loop nap mf towel is when I need to cut through the product I use. And the split nap mf towel is when I need to pick up as much residue as possible. I also pay attention in the beginning how the surface is left. And when it starts to smear or in another word leaves product behind I flipp to a new clean side or switch to a new clean mf towel. So very much depending on the work I do and what the mf towel is to do.

The mf towels Mike and Bob linked to. Seems like a great general purpose mf towel. I have found towels like these where I live. These low nap mf towel works great for most jobs. Then sometimes I have to grabb another one that for an example holds more product or goes longer when buffing up the last shine. It's not easy to find the perfect mf towel but you can come close to it with a good set of different kind of nap and density as gsm. Also the quality of both the mf yarn and the woven quality and the blend can have the impact on how well the mf towel works. Then test out how they work for you. And last but also the most important is the care of them. Glass mf towels for an example I always wash separate. And also towels used on long lasting LSP I try to avoid them to dry and soak them fast and wash them directly after I'm done. I don't like to be useing a drying aid as it's messing with the mf drying towel whole purpose to hold up and soak up water. Drying aids is mostly for lubrication but they also break the water surface tension. And the surface tension of the water the drying towels is woven to use the water surface tension to hold as much water as possible. So IMO it's gets redundant to use a drying aid. And if you have a drying mf towel that is not safe on a clean paint with water standing on it. Then IMO it's time to get a quality drying mf towel that is safe to use on it's own. Almost forgot to mention it's the capillary holding ability from the mf drying towel they use to get them to hold an amazing more water amounts. A little sidetrack of your question here. If you take a look at the Gyeon range of mf towels. You can see a nice mix of different kind of nap and to which work they are made for. It's also a great range of different nap to have in your arsenal. And you don't need to be getting all Gyeon but you can compare it to what kind of work you would be useing it for and get a nap that is like them. Then of cause it's works outside of the box uses with some nap. But general speaking the Gyeon I think have a great range of different nap on their mf towels.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
Thanks Mike! Im just a shade tree detailer that likes to do things himself... if I can improve on that, great! Ive taught a few people along the way too. Ive read that link a million times lol, and I still practice, what I think, is good MF maintenance.


I guess I shoud've been more specific on what THEY told me to do lol. Basically they were talking about the not all wax/sealants come out of MFs thus can cross contaminate say something used when ceramic coating. So say I have a MF that I used last month to remove wax, and then I wash it and so on but then I use that same towel to do an IPA wipe down on a car that Im going to ceramic coat... That towel MIGHT deposit some residue that would or could hinder the ceramic from bonding.
Click to expand...

I have a ton of microfibers. Lmao probably more then everyone else in my town combined. Not even joking. I do use different ones for different things put paint towels are going to get mixed around with all the different types of products around. I just started washing them a new way that some might consider excessive,

First I set the machine to prewash and go heavy on the microfiber cleaner. I'll letr them pre soak for at least 20 min before closing the lid and starting the prewash.

Second I run them through a heavy wash cycle with a normal to light amount of microfiber soap.

Third I run them through a regular wash cycle with no soap just rinse water. That way the whole wash cycle is its own through rinse. I noticed a big difference after the first time I tried it like a month ago so I did it again. It's worth the time in my opinion. I'll wear the same pair of jeans for 8 months without washing them so go figure.

If microfiber towels lint I think that means they are defective. I get rid of them or send them back. Nothing worse then a linting towel.
 
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