Swirles that just won't go away!

Thanks for the input gents!

Don't get me wrong. Car looks great with its Rids and solvent pops. Great shine and gloss.

And many areas polished out to a 100% scratch and swirl free. But there were many places where it didn't clean up as expected. This one had a split personality!

And I'm off to bed---my butt hurts, neck, thighs and back as well! Lol...

And to top it off---Sitting here, I realized I've stopped just short of actually burning the paint! And I'm just grateful for the instinct of pulling short of burning!

And I can live with whatever bitty swirls that was left.

Tom
 
You know the only person that sees all those swirls is the person buffing it. LOL
 
TMQ said:
Tried the Rupes Blue foam pads (new ones too). Messy, didn't play well. I did not have the blue microfiber pads.

Switched over to the new Rupes white coarse microfiber pads. Helped a lot. Noticed that pads stopped working after a panel or two.

I have the UHS but wasn't with me. Really wished I had it. But after hitting as hard as I did, doubt it won't make much difference.

Probably would've burn the paint if I had a "heavy" cut compound! Kind of glad I got out of this one today!!

Tom
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One thing I did notice, was that even after only one or two passes, those pads were glazed up, and needed cleaning before all of the defects were removed. I refer to this as "tripping". The combination was cutting so hard, and clogging up the microfiber pads so quickly, that it "trilped" over itself.

I think that the wetter nature of the M100 allowed the removed paint somewhere to retreat to.
 
Could you be seeing scratches and sanding marks under the clear? I had a Maserati that had custom wings and spoilers added along with defects under the clear that would only go away if the owner started over at a new body shop. Some work is just not correctable if they are under the clear.
 
Take a aggressive pad load it with compound put in on the paint do a 12inch by 12inch section wipe it off now go rinse the pad out but not to much. Now slap the pad back on and try it. The lubricant oil will still be in the pad. It worked for me.one time also Larry from ammo NYC has a video on it also.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Dr Oldz said:
It then sounds like you need to be more aggressive. Proceed with caution tho.

There Is a point where you can only do so much. A few jobs I have done in the past need such aggressive compounding that I actually chose to machine wet sand. There is a point where wet sanding is safer than heavy compounding solely due to less heat being introduced into the paint via wet sanding.

Hope you get it figured out buddy!
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I agree. I actually go around every vehicle I work on and look for deeper scratches that I will be able to remove and wet sand them it's so much faster than going over them 3 or 4 times with compound. Of course there is risk involved and this method definitely isn't for everyone.
 
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