Swril remover ....again

R

Richs66

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Hey guys, sorry for beating this to death, need some more assistance...........so far I'm using UC with an orange pad, then I follow up with UP with a white pad..........now when I do the test spot, it looks good so I proceed to do other areas.........

Now ive done this twice with less than stellar results...............everything looks pretty good, but today I look at it again in the sun and I'm still seeing a lot of swirls.

Thinking I'm doing everything right according to the never ending list of vids showing how to do it..............

Maybe I'm chasing my tail, but are you supposed to get every swirl out, or get 75 per cent of them and call it a day, or do I need to get some other pads, or product.

I have on hand the UC...UP....Meg swirl remover.....Swirl X.....final cut stuff, Wizards final cut ..........

Once I get these swirls out...............could you recommend a AIO...........tired of all this fooling around. LOL

Rich
 
What color paint do you have, Rich?

If you are not satisfied w/ the results, then there are other things to try IMO.
 
This is why you always do a test spot and inspect under the sun.
 
This could be my post to the letter.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same pads and the exact same stuff - UC and UP. Gonna hit it again this weekend, but this time with only UP. My swirls were about 50 percent better after compounding with UC on orange. So this weekend, I'm gonna wash and clay (did not clay before compounding - big mistake but you learn) and hit with UP on white.

Besides not claying, I think my other problem was not working the compound enough. I think you need just a little downward pressure on the Porters - but not a whole lot - and you need to work the area with more passes and possibly at a 6 on the Porter. I compounded at a 5.

Done correctly, I think compounding and polish could take several hours if it's never been done before on the car. From the videos I have watched, you need to work one area until the swirls are gone and then move to another area. I have found an air-conditioned warehouse to do it in, so I'm not dealing with that Florida heat.

Just my two cents.
 
Also, I just don't have any more $$ to invest in more polishes, swirl removers, etc. My LSP is usually a sealant or a wax, but I bought some Klasse AIO. From that point forward, I'm just gonna wash and top with that Pinnacle Liquid Spray Carnuba.
 
I bypassed compound on black 4runner and did wg tsr and then wg fp with flex...got about 75 % of swirls out.
It 2016 that was dealer delivered swirled out.

I did full decon..ironx and clay pre polishing.

My thoughts were ..save wg compound and more importantly my clearcoat when its 5 tears old and has more defects to remove. Its also blakc soft paint ..so itll swirl more just from washing it.

After thinking the polishing process through carefilly before polishing my truck...mike p's suggestion about not chasing 100 defect removal on DD makes a lot of sense....bc you will remove more clearcoat doing this and it will simply swirl again ....im good with the 75% defect removal..while preserving clearcoat for more problems that will arise down the road.
 
are you constantly polishing the same spot? Also, are you cleaning your pads? What kind of car?
 
tampatopless said:
This could be my post to the letter.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same pads and the exact same stuff - UC and UP. Gonna hit it again this weekend, but this time with only UP. My swirls were about 50 percent better after compounding with UC on orange. So this weekend, I'm gonna wash and clay (did not clay before compounding - big mistake but you learn) and hit with UP on white.

Besides not claying, I think my other problem was not working the compound enough. I think you need just a little downward pressure on the Porters - but not a whole lot - and you need to work the area with more passes and possibly at a 6 on the Porter. I compounded at a 5.

Done correctly, I think compounding and polish could take several hours if it's never been done before on the car. From the videos I have watched, you need to work one area until the swirls are gone and then move to another area. I have found an air-conditioned warehouse to do it in, so I'm not dealing with that Florida heat.

Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

Several hours? Lol more like several days. It should imo take at least two 8hr days to wash clay compound polish and wax. You're only supposed to do small sections you know. Literally smaller then 2x2 with a pic or gg6. I believe Mike says 16x16 is better. That's 6 passes each little section just for compound. If it only takes a few hours to do a multi step you're doing it wrong
 
tampatopless said:
Also, I just don't have any more $$ to invest in more polishes, swirl removers, etc. My LSP is usually a sealant or a wax, but I bought some Klasse AIO. From that point forward, I'm just gonna wash and top with that Pinnacle Liquid Spray Carnuba.
Click to expand...

Well part of your problem imo is ultimate polish and klasse AIO fill in swirls not get rid of them
 
PaulMys said:
What color paint do you have, Rich?

If you are not satisfied w/ the results, then there are other things to try IMO.
Click to expand...

Paul, the paint is a GM color Dark Cloisonné Blue, BC/CC......paint is about 20 yrs old.
 
Richs66 said:
Paul, the paint is a GM color Dark Cloisonné Blue, BC/CC......paint is about 20 yrs old.
Click to expand...

cleanmycorolla said:
are you constantly polishing the same spot? Also, are you cleaning your pads? What kind of car?
Click to expand...

Well so far ive only done the front hood and trunk lid..........I do clean my pads after use, but basically I use a new pad for each section, and I clean on the fly if doing another.

I did do the test spot and looked under the sun.............seemed to look ok, so I went further..........seems like I didn"t look good enough, that's for sure. LOL

I'm using a PC 7424xp..........guess I always wondered, how many times can you take out swirls , before you start to do some serious damage to the paint.

Actually this is just my play around in the summer car, and the paint does look pretty good for its age, so I'm not sure what to do here, would like it to look better, but don"t want to screw it up.

Was thinking of taking it to a "Pro", but I like doing things for myself..........im thinking maybe I'm just not working it right, seems like I have the right pressure on the pc, and doing 6-7 passes.

Was gonna get one of those brinkman swirl lights, but after reading some comments about that one, was wondering if one of the 500-1000 luumens flashlights would work..........I have so much pollen flying around here, so I have to do this in the garage, and pulling the car out every 20 minutes to check a spot is getting old.

As always, I really do appreciate the help from you guys.

Rich
 
How are you dressing, and reloading the pads? How are you cleaning them?

Are you maintaining good pad rotation? Is your backing plate marked with a sharpie line, to verify rotation?

Are your microfiber towels clean?

You absolutely must use some sort of strong light to inspect your work as you go. You have to validate before you proceed.
 
Richs66 said:
Hey guys, sorry for beating this to death, need some more assistance...........so far I'm using UC with an orange pad, then I follow up with UP with a white pad..........now when I do the test spot, it looks good so I proceed to do other areas.........

Now ive done this twice with less than stellar results...............everything looks pretty good, but today I look at it again in the sun and I'm still seeing a lot of swirls.

Thinking I'm doing everything right according to the never ending list of vids showing how to do it..............

Maybe I'm chasing my tail, but are you supposed to get every swirl out, or get 75 per cent of them and call it a day, or do I need to get some other pads, or product.

I have on hand the UC...UP....Meg swirl remover.....Swirl X.....final cut stuff, Wizards final cut ..........

Once I get these swirls out...............could you recommend a AIO...........tired of all this fooling around. LOL

Rich
Click to expand...

You need better products and good lighting and some eraser and microfiber pads. Those polishes are OK but me personally sonax all the way. Aio make quick results but may fool you after your first wash.
 
Richs66 said:
Well so far ive only done the front hood and trunk lid..........I do clean my pads after use, but basically I use a new pad for each section, and I clean on the fly if doing another.

I did do the test spot and looked under the sun.............seemed to look ok, so I went further..........seems like I didn"t look good enough, that's for sure. LOL

I'm using a PC 7424xp..........guess I always wondered, how many times can you take out swirls , before you start to do some serious damage to the paint.

Actually this is just my play around in the summer car, and the paint does look pretty good for its age, so I'm not sure what to do here, would like it to look better, but don"t want to screw it up.

Was thinking of taking it to a "Pro", but I like doing things for myself..........im thinking maybe I'm just not working it right, seems like I have the right pressure on the pc, and doing 6-7 passes.

Was gonna get one of those brinkman swirl lights, but after reading some comments about that one, was wondering if one of the 500-1000 luumens flashlights would work..........I have so much pollen flying around here, so I have to do this in the garage, and pulling the car out every 20 minutes to check a spot is getting old.

As always, I really do appreciate the help from you guys.

Rich
Click to expand...

6 to 7 passes is to time consuming. Pinnacle twins work beautifully on all finishes. Keep it simple get some micropads and better products and eraser, Eraser is from car pro it's a liquid that you spray onto a panel to remove filler type polishes and give you a true indication of your progress.
 
GSKR said:
You need better products and good lighting and some eraser and microfiber pads. Those polishes are OK but me personally sonax all the way. Aio make quick results but may fool you after your first wash.
Click to expand...

Bacislly just tell him throw all his $hit away and start over.
 
idriveblackcars said:
Bacislly just tell him throw all his $hit away and start over.
Click to expand...

Good one, that cracked me up. LOL......I was thinking of getting some of those microfiber pads, but I thought they would do more damage than the foam pads..........can"t hurt with all the screwing up I'm doing anyways.

Will look into that car pro stuff.
 
dlc95 said:
How are you dressing, and reloading the pads? How are you cleaning them?

Are you maintaining good pad rotation? Is your backing plate marked with a sharpie line, to verify rotation?

Are your microfiber towels clean?

You absolutely must use some sort of strong light to inspect your work as you go. You have to validate before you proceed.
Click to expand...

On the new pads, I prime them, then a few small dots around 4, Backing plate is marked, does rotate.....as far as clean micro towels...........I only use new towels .

For cleaning the pads I use that McKees 37 pad polishing spray, also throw them in a bucket of that snappy clean stuff.

I have a halogen work light, maybe that's too strong, I cant see any defects when I got that close to the car.

Rich
 
GSKR said:
6 to 7 passes is to time consuming. Pinnacle twins work beautifully on all finishes. Keep it simple get some micropads and better products and eraser, Eraser is from car pro it's a liquid that you spray onto a panel to remove filler type polishes and give you a true indication of your progress.
Click to expand...

Yeah well to bad, that's what it takes sometimes everything can't be quick and easy

"Keeping it simple" Isn't buying 7 new products it's working with what you have.

Not 1 person was recommending sonax before they bought this company. At least it seems that way to me.

The ultimate compound should get rid of it.
 
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