taking the plunge

Imacanyone

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Hello all,

new guy from Palm Bay, florida here. i'm taking the plunge this weekend with my new 2014 car. have done lots of reading and i'm ready to go. i got a bottle of Collinite 845 and after reading lots of posts think i can handle it. I'm concerned about putting the wax on too thick so i'm just gonna take my time and do my best. i some LC pads and am going to do it by hand. This forum has given some excellent advice and tips....... we'll see :)
 
Hello all,

new guy from Palm Bay, florida here. i'm taking the plunge this weekend with my new 2014 car. have done lots of reading and i'm ready to go. i got a bottle of Collinite 845 and after reading lots of posts think i can handle it. I'm concerned about putting the wax on too thick so i'm just gonna take my time and do my best. i some LC pads and am going to do it by hand. This forum has given some excellent advice and tips....... we'll see :)

Search "collinite 845" and read the "definitive guide on the legendary wax" thread. All you need to know about the product. :xyxthumbs:
 
Welcome to AGO! :welcome:

Wrote an article to help you with just this thing....


A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you


Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off, first test the product to a small area.

This way you'll be familiar with the application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.


A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,

MicrofiberTowel001.jpg



Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.


Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.

Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.


The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove, The Swipe Test


Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.


Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.

Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.


The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.


For some people, what this may teach them is the importance of applying a thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.


:xyxthumbs:
 
845 is great stuff, are you going to clay and do a polish.:buffing:
 
845 is great stuff, are you going to clay and do a polish.:buffing:

seeing that the car is brand new i am going to just wax it. there are no problems anywhere that i can see. thats why i want to get a good wax on it now :)

the dealer did what i think is a really good job detailing it when delivered.
 
seeing that the car is brand new i am going to just wax it. there are no problems anywhere that i can see. thats why i want to get a good wax on it now :)

the dealer did what i think is a really good job detailing it when delivered.

What kind of car did you get? You would be pleasantly surprised as to how not good of a job a dealer can and most likely do on a new delivery. No dealer that I know of touches a car with clay. Which can be very important depending how the car was delivered. You should do a clay job on it regardless to clean any and all contaminates off of your new paint. Help get that first coat of sealant to bond correctly an keep your new car looking good. For $20 for a clay kit at any auto parts store it's worth it.
 
seeing that the car is brand new i am going to just wax it. there are no problems anywhere that i can see. thats why i want to get a good wax on it now :)

the dealer did what i think is a really good job detailing it when delivered.

The thing is, there may be stuff bonded to the paint that you cannot see. Even a car that looks clean can be contaminated. At a minimum, do the baggie test before you slap that Collinite on.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html
 
Post a picture of your new ride for us, a picture is wirth a thousand words. Welcome to the forum.
 
Its a piece of cake to clay a new car anyway. I'd describe it as being almost a pro forma kind of thing. So you might as well get off on the right foot.

I did the same as you: I resolved to take better care of my new car after neglecting my old one. I found this site.

I'm by no means compulsive about it, but I'm over two years into it and I'd say my car still looks better than the cars on the new car dealer's lot. I found out what the durable sealant/waxes were on the site. I found out the safe way to wash [two bucket microfiber mitt, grit-guard and also more recently the "Garry Dean" method --basically slapping one mf towel after another soaked in rinseless on the car and swiping a few times].

I experimented with a couple of middle-priced carnauba waxes as toppers, then settled on a spray wax (Duragloss Aquawax). The Stoners stuff and another MF cloth get the windshield really well. For some reason or other it took me a long time to figure that out.

Once you get the routine down, its not much more time consuming and cheaper (yes! really!) than driving down to the swirl-0-matic once a week. I kind of look forward to it. You can experiment with new products, glazes, and nuance type approaches, but the basic drill is surprisingly straight-forward.
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online new guy from Palm Bay, FL! :props:
 
Here's your car...

1899672_10201228131375846_51542216_o.jpg




Metallic Silver Toyota?


Coat it!


That's what I did to our metallic silver MB and I'm never looking back and by that I mean I'm never using anything else but a coating on this car.


2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures


2006_SLK_350_096.jpg


2006_SLK_350_097.jpg





:xyxthumbs:

when you say coat it what exactly do you mean??? i did the baggie test and it was smooth as a baby's bottom. just got done waxing it with Collinite 845 which was an absolute dream. that stuff is awesome. thanks so much for sharing so much information!!! and yes it is Classic Metallic Silver
 
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