Taping problems

dnoraker

dnoraker

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I swear that lately I've been having a much harder time taping off a car. It simply won't stick. Same 3M blue tape, plus I've tried some other green painters tape I found at the home improvement store that was a little cheaper, but had the same problem. So, I just got some 3M automotive tape. Exactly the same problem.

I'm taping after doing claying the car, and I suspect that the clay lube (Megs Last Touch) is the problem. I used a little isopropyl alcohol, which helped with the chrome trim pieces, but marred the heck out of the single stage paint ('77 Buick Regal) using a Megs microfiber. I've had this problem before with marring using IPA and a microfiber, but not this bad.

So, since this is a paint prep problem, how do I prep the surfaces to be taped without marring them? Or, how do I change my process so I don't have to prep the surface? The wierd part is that I haven't changed my claying procedure or products in a few years.

I have a lot of stuff to tape off, so I would totally appreciate any help on this!!!!
 
If you're taping to polish the car then I wouldn't even worry about marring the finish as that will be fixed with the polish.
 
You could tape before claying and just keep a towel near so you don't let the clay lube soak into the adhesive for long.
 
both of your thoughts have been considered.

The problem is that I would be taping over the marring. I usually take the tape off to be able to polish up to sharper edges and body gaps for blending, but keep the speed way down. However, I leave tape on the trim pieces until waxing because I'm protecting them from the buffer.

I don't really like taping before claying because then I'm missing the taped areas and risking getting clay lube under the tape.
 
dnoraker said:
yellow
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Interesting... I can vouch for the white "Ultimate wipes" as they don't scratch. I had a black celophane wrapper that I was wiping down, and it would marr up like crazy with almost any MF towel. I then used a spritz of "final inspection" and an ultimate wipe and had no marring at all. ( I even pressed somewhat hard and gave it several passes)

Of all of the ones I have used there was one towel that had some hard stuff embedded it straight out of the package. Good thing is that they are white so you can see it there is any debris in them before you use them.

I have used one of the yellow ones before but now I may have to reconsider using them on paint. I have 5 of the yellow Supreme Shine towels.
 
I don't think it's the towel, though. I use these all the time without them scratching the paint. It's the combination with the IPA and wiping an area. It's like it makes it too grippy and it grabs the paint, marring it like buffing with a dry pad.

I'm thinking I either didn't get the car totally clean, or tape doesn't stick to residue from Last Touch.
 
I used to use Meguiars Last Touch for a claylube and had the exact same problem your having, the tape would not stick after claying. I switched to Meguiars Final Inspection which is body shop safe, (I assume it means it doesn't contain silicones) and it solved the problem.

Tom
 
I used to use Final Inspection before Last Touch and loved it. That totally makes sense. Plus, if I run out, they carry it at the auto parts store 3 blocks away. :)

Are most products at AG for clay lube also body shop safe like Final Inspection? Though I'll probably use Final Inspection, is there another brand/product with similar performance that's cheaper? That was the only reason I went to Last Touch- the bulk pricing.
 
Try using wax and grease remover to wipe whatever down with before you apply the tape. They sell it at many autoparts stores in the painting section.
 
Generally when tape won't stick it boils down to it's age or residual contamination on the piece that's keeping it from sticking. I use a Dupont product called Prep-Solve that dissolves, oils, tar, grease etc that cures this issue. I use this prior to wet-sanding as part of the painting process to ensure that the surface is contaminate free.

I'm sure there's others out there but I think you get the idea.
 
dnoraker said:
Are most products at AG for clay lube also body shop safe like Final Inspection? Though I'll probably use Final Inspection, is there another brand/product with similar performance that's cheaper? That was the only reason I went to Last Touch- the bulk pricing.
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My clay lube consists of a small cap full of car wash soap in a 32oz spray bottle filled with water. How much easier/safe can that get? No need for dedicated lube IMHO.
 
BobbyG said:
Generally when tape won't stick it boils down to it's age or residual contamination on the piece that's keeping it from sticking. I use a Dupont product called Prep-Solve that dissolves, oils, tar, grease etc that cures this issue. I use this prior to wet-sanding as part of the painting process to ensure that the surface is contaminate free.

I'm sure there's others out there but I think you get the idea.
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Likewise, Walmart carries something called Prep-All. But I'm also interested in trying a product called "Prep Wash". (via a competitors site)
 
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Mindflux said:
My clay lube consists of a small cap full of car wash soap in a 32oz spray bottle filled with water. How much easier/safe can that get? No need for dedicated lube IMHO.
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I'll second that! I haven't bought a dedicated clay lube in over 5 years.....
 
Last Touch leaves behind a very slick finish which keeps the tape from adhering well. Switch to a different lube and it will solve your problem....I use M34 now, but there are other more cost effective options.
 
As others have said already, the clay lube is probably the cause of the sticking issue. It is simple enough to wash the car after claying to remove the lube, no real need to use anything more harsh unless you need to strip anything else from the paint.

If you prefer not to wash and to use a spray-on product, make sure you don't end up wiping too hard. IPA flashes and causes high friction until the reside is wiped off, and to lessen this effect dilute the alcohol with more water. Using Final or Top Inspection makes it much easier to wipe clear than alcohol, but add their own lubricity to the paint with regards to sticking tape.

In my experience a proper first wash regimen and clay is enough to strip almost any wax or sealant. We clay directly after rinsing the suds with a dedicated clay lube, then foam up the car again, wash, rinse. Tape sticks very well in all dry areas after that.

Drying is key, and is easy using a leaf blower. Areas like sunroofs and front door window/side mirror areas always seep more water and will take a few passes with the blower for the tape to stick proper. Tape does not stick well to moist areas. The 3M green tape is better in that it is much more forgiving to moisture than the blue painter's tape. I like it because it bends easier around curves than the blue tape IMO.

Hope this helps!
 
Cool. Lots of good help.

I used to use Final Inspection and had no problems. Maybe I'll go back to that for now and save the Last Touch for door jambs or for claying windows.

I use Megs gold Class car wash, and have Megs #00 around that I use for wet sanding. Would either of those mixed in a bottle be effective lubes?

Regarding washing technique, I started using a leaf blower this year to help get the water out of the trim, etc. It's one of the top 5 improvements in efficiency this year. I also would like to buy a foam gun, but I've gone gear crazy this year already with buying a steamer, water filter, 3" Griots, and lots of new products/pads.
 
I tried a cap full of Megs Gold Class in a 32 oz sprayer and that seemed to work fine. It seemed like the clay tended to be a little tackier, but that was partially remedied by keeping my hands wet with the soap/water mixture. The tape stuck brilliantly, and made that SO much easier! I don't want to think about how much time I wasted screwing up my taping the last couple years while I used Last Touch. Great product, frustrating clay lube when following with tape.

I'm open to other cost effective suggestions for clay lube.
 
FWIW, even though you already solved the problem.

Meguiars Last Touch is described in a manner that lends itself to be like an LSP, implied by the name "last touch". It intentionally leaves behind a layer of product. It is not suggested to be used as a clay lube. Quoted from the AG product description, the bold section below is what I think caused the problem with taping.

"...The formula contains polymeric lubricating agents that remove dust and fingerprints as they form a slick, micro-thin coat of gloss. The lubricants allow dust..."

Meguiars #34 Final Inspection, on the other hand, is described in a way that lends it self to being a gentile, lubricated cleaner. Not being intended to leave behind it's own gloss, but to safely remove dust and finger prints leaving your current wax job in tact. Also, it is suggested to be used as a clay lube.

Just my product observations, hopefully they help somehow. :dblthumb2:
 
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