Thanks for water spot help!

[YankeeFan]

How to remove water spots?

Washed my car yesterday like I do every weekend but as I was drying there were spots all over the place that just wouldn't get off. Ran to my computer did a Water Spot Search here to find out a mixture of water and vinegar would do the trick. Bought some vinegar mixed it in a spray bottle with some water and the spots are gone. Was freaking out but once again this site helped, and this time it was a cheap fix. Thanks!

Strange though, as I have a water conditioner connected to my water supply and this never happened before. Can water spots be caused by too much soap? I did do that yesterday and it was the only different thing I did. Checked the softener for salt and there was plenty.

Anyway, thanks to all those that had past water spot solutions,
Howard

 

[Reddwarf]

Sounds like an easy way to solve the problem! What ratio of water to vinegar did you use?

 

[ScottB]

maybe the water softner needs more salt, or the conditioner needs recharging ??

 

[YankeeFan]

Sounds like an easy way to solve the problem! What ratio of water to vinegar did you use?

I didn't actually measure but close to the 70/30 mixture of vinegar to water as suggested on previous posts

Howard

 

[richy]

I tried that on my water spots and it didn't help. Gives me an excuse to use my new UDM though, so I don't really care

 

[sportscarhiatus]

sorry for resurrecting this thread. But has anyone else had any luck with the water/vinegar 50/50 ration mix? My problem is that even after a fresh coat of wax etc, sometimes after washing, there are still drips that dry up and I can't catch them all. Waterspots emerge. If I use the water/vinegar method, I heard that it will "dull" the surface, then I have to polish/wax again.

Is there something I can use to take the spots out WITHOUT damaging/removing the LSP? Something like Pinnacle Cleansing Lotion perhaps? I don't want anything too harsh that can scratch/haze surface either. Klasse AIO is too harsh and has some hazing issues and incompatibility. I just did a PC correction on my cars so it's all like glass now... but am worried about when it's time to wash, those friggin spots are inevitable.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Is there something I can use to take the spots out WITHOUT damaging/removing the LSP? S

Maybe a spray detailer or a spray wax? You would have to try and see if it works.

Water Spots - Type I, Type II, Type III
Water Spots are more complex than most people assume because there are different types of water spots. Some water spots are merely mineral deposits on the surface left behind after water with minerals has evaporated off the surface. These deposits can often be washed off the paint using a quality car wash soap. Sometimes these deposits can also leave an imprint in the paint in the perimeter of the spot and in these cases the imprint must be removed using a compound or paint cleaner as it's a defect in the paint, not simply a deposit on the paint. Some sources of water, be it rain with air-borne pollution mixed-in, or sprinkler water from a city water supply or well water, can have corrosive enough elements in it that it will actually eat into or etch the paint leaving a depression or crater in the paint where the water dwelled or dried. This is a Type II water spot and it can only be removed by leveling the surrounding paint by hand or machine with some type of abrasive compound or paint cleaner. Type III Water Spots are primarily a stain in the paint which looks like fading where water pooled and then dwelled for some measure of time. This primarily happens to single stage paints which tend to be more porous and thus will absorb water into itself. If Type III Water Spots are limited to only the upper surface of the paint then they can be removed by abrading the paint by hand or machine with a compound or polish.

Before attempting to remove water spots it is important to first diagnose which type of water spot is affecting your car's paint.

Type I Water Spots
Type I Water Spots are primarily a mineral or dirt deposit laying on the surface of paint. Type I Water Spots can be the results of minerals suspended in city water or well water that are left behind after the water evaporates off the finish. This can happen by washing a car but not drying the water off the paint or if a sprinkler goes off next to the car covering the car with water drop that are not dried off the paint. Type I Water Spots can also be dirt or pollution particles left behind after water from rain or inclement weather evaporates of the finish. Type I Water Spots can also be Type II Water Spots in that the water can leave both a deposit on the surface and an etching in the finish.


Type II Water Spots
Type II Water Spots are actual etchings or craters in the paint because something corrosive in a water source has landed on the paint and was not removed before a portion of the paint was eaten or dissolved by the corrosive substance.

Type III Water Spots
Type III Water Spots are spots that look faded or dull and are found primarily found on single stage paints after a water source lands on and then pools on the paint and is usually left to dwell on the surface for some measure of time before it evaporates or is wiped-off the surface.​

Vinegar can be used to remove Type I Water Spots but note that the mineral deposits can still leave an imprint or etching that is in the paint and if that's the case then you must abrade the surface flat with some type of abrasive compound or polish to remove the imprint.

Something like Pinnacle Cleansing Lotion perhaps? I don't want anything too harsh that can scratch/haze surface either.

Pinnacle Cleansing Lotion won't scratch the finish as long as the finish is clean to start with an you apply it with a clean applicator pad. It will however remove your LSP

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Mike, thank you for the thorough response. Sounds like once it's etched, I have to use a polish/compound (probably via PC) to get it out. Which means, once I have a nice LSP on there, if I wash the car, then get water spots, I have no choice but to use "abrasion" of some sort to remove it... thereby removing my LSP

Reason why I am concerned is because I used to use Klass AIO to remove any water spots that have etched... worked really well. But lately, I have noticed (perhaps it always did, but I just never really noticed) that using AIO on my black paint on either car, will leave a heavy haze/scratch even if just a DROP of it is used. It is very weird. Has anyone EVER noticed this with their use of AIO? I noticed this the other day when correcting my paint with Menzerna/WG 3.0 TSR/FG. Not sure if it's an incompatibility with those polishes/compounds or a chemical reaction or what-issue, but I'm not using AIO till I figure this out. Which is why I was looking for a "substitute" for my AIO water spot removal.

Has ANYone here seen the AIO hazing issue??? It's more like a permanent haze, like a scratch. I literally have to polish it out via a PC. It sucks.

 

[A4 1.8tqm]

Has ANYone here seen the AIO hazing issue??? It's more like a permanent haze, like a scratch. I literally have to polish it out via a PC. It sucks.

Klasse AIO is a WOWO product. If any excess dries on the paint it is very hard to remove, if it does happen just reapply AIO to the trouble spot and it will remove the dried product. Use AIO very very sparingly and wipe it off with a clean MF immediately. Think Mr. Miagi, wax on wax off.

 

[Darin]

Mike, thank you for the thorough response. Sounds like once it's etched, I have to use a polish/compound (probably via PC) to get it out. Which means, once I have a nice LSP on there, if I wash the car, then get water spots, I have no choice but to use "abrasion" of some sort to remove it... thereby removing my LSP

Reason why I am concerned is because I used to use Klass AIO to remove any water spots that have etched... worked really well. But lately, I have noticed (perhaps it always did, but I just never really noticed) that using AIO on my black paint on either car, will leave a heavy haze/scratch even if just a DROP of it is used. It is very weird. Has anyone EVER noticed this with their use of AIO? I noticed this the other day when correcting my paint with Menzerna/WG 3.0 TSR/FG. Not sure if it's an incompatibility with those polishes/compounds or a chemical reaction or what-issue, but I'm not using AIO till I figure this out. Which is why I was looking for a "substitute" for my AIO water spot removal.

Has ANYone here seen the AIO hazing issue??? It's more like a permanent haze, like a scratch. I literally have to polish it out via a PC. It sucks.

I just did my car yesterday. I found on the trunk lid, roof, and hood I too had a lot of these waterspots looks like type 2. From Mike's post (very informative). I used swirl remover with a terry cloth by hand and also by polisher. Over and over. Worked best if I got the surface to warm up a little from the friction of the polisher. (don't heat it too much or you may warp your metal) Everytime I did it a little more would come out. Very tedious but it is looking great. Then I used KAIO and did the same. It did not get all the spots off but pretty close. Another hour or so should do the trick. I used vinegar because we have alot of hard water where I live and go through a fair amount cleaning everything (fridge water dispenser, iron(girlfriend), marble tops etc. The vinegar works fantastic. And 100% concentration.

I find I get the haze when I apply too much KAIO. To get rid of this what I have done it just used a "clean" micro fibre with a little elbow grease and the haze was gonzo. Turn frequently. Hope that helps.