the best / cost effective way to strip lsp


Mike, do you suggest using the paint cleaner after claying and before polishing in a full detail routine? or after as a last step before reapplying sealant?

I have done a complete detail and need some advice for reapplying the LSP 3-6 months from now (no paint correction) So, my proposed procedure is wash/clay/paint cleaner/lsp. Is that what you'd recommend?

Any insight appreciated!

David
 
just FYI, chemical guys citrus shampoo's will NOT strip quality sealants with even 3 back to back wash's at strong dilutions. Or should I say, they have never done it for me personally. I have been using chemical guys citrus products for about 2 years or more so I have a lot of experience with them. For natural carnuba wax, it works well to "aid" in removal.

Nothing short of body shop silicone remover, chemical paint cleaners or paint safe alkaline based APC's will do the job up to my standards of "truly" stripping the finish by seeing flat water behavior.

The fastest, cheapest and easiest way to go about stripping is by spraying APC on a wet panel, agitating with a sponge, then rewash to fully remove anything left over from the APC on the paint with a different sponge and bucket.

For a while I was adding APC to the wash bucket but found that it made my wash water lose all of its lubricity and suds. So i now spray it on, rinse and then follow up with a wash to remove APC oil's and residue.

If you do not plan to polish or correct the paint and just want to go straight to sealant, then stripping the paint with APC's is not my method. I feel that it dries out the paint or could make it lifeless and dull. So my preferred method would then be to use a pre-wax cleaner.
 
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