The Car Insurance Analogy for using an Iron Remover by Mike Phillips

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The Car Insurance Analogy for using an Iron Remover by Mike Phillips


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An iron remover is one of those products you want to use but you don't actually want it to work - Mike Phillips


Using an iron remover is like buying car insurance, you want to have it but you don't really want to use it because that means you were in an accident and this is never any fun. That said, it's important to have car insurance for financial, physical and emotional peace of mind just in case you are involved in an accident.

When you use an iron remover, you don't actually want to see iron contamination via the very visual bleeding-effect as this means your car's exterior is contaminated. Contamination means deterioration has been taking place. That's never a good thing and especially considering how thin clearcoat layer of paint is from the factory.

Like having car insurance, it's a good idea to use an iron remover on your car's exterior, but like car insurance, you really don't have to use it or in the case of an iron remover you don't actually want to see any color changing or bleed-effect take place as this would mean your car's exterior is not contaminated.

It would be better to see nothing and have peace of mind. The price of the iron remover is a minimal compared to knowing your paint was not contaminated.

If you do see the color changing or bleeding effect, then you have peace of mind knowing the contamination has been removed and the deterioration has been stopped.


The only way to really know if your car is contaminated is to use some insurance i.e. use an iron remover...

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Car Insurance on Autogeek.com


SONAX Fallout Cleaner

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller Iron Remover 500 ml

Dodo Juice Supernatural Ferro Lube 500 ml

Britemax Iron Max Iron Remover

Griots Garage Iron & Fallout Remover

McKee’s 37 Xtreme Iron Remover

Optimum FerreX Iron Remover 17 oz

GYEON Q2M Iron Remover - 500 ml

CarPro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml

CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent 500 ml

CarPro TRIX Tar and Iron Remover 1 Liter



:)
 
When I applied IronX to my CLS550 not too much color change happened, which was gratifying. What are your thoughts on using an iron remover on a fabric convertible top (both light and dark colored)?
 
bal said:
When I applied IronX to my CLS550 not too much color change happened, which was gratifying.
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Thank you for chiming in and adding this to the thread. This is my point. You want to use it - you don't want to see it work. :)


bal said:
What are your thoughts on using an iron remover on a fabric convertible top (both light and dark colored)?
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Great question and if the car in question was an older neglected convertible and especially if the car has been parked outside a lot in its life, then I would probably go for it. I can't think of a real world car project that I've detailed that had a CAVAS top and I used an iron remover.

But - here's two cars with white vinyl tops where I DID use an iron remover. Full write-ups and lots of pictures.


Vinyl Top Extreme Makeover - How to remove mold, mildew, dirt and stains out of a vinyl convertible top

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I think the word for the change is

DRAMATIC


:)
 
Thanks Mike - that's truly impressive!

In my case, the light colored top is only a few years old (a replacement top for a 911). It is regularly cleaned so I think it is in good shape. I have an interesting small greenish spot on it but that's a question for another post. The black one is on a 2006 Mini of unknown history. I might try a light spray of IronX to see what happens. Will report back.
 
bal said:
In my case, the light colored top is only a few years old (a replacement top for a 911). It is regularly cleaned so I think it is in good shape.

The black one is on a 2006 Mini of unknown history.
Click to expand...


Just for your reference, below is a very detailed how-to article with lots of pictures showing how to safely and correctly wash and then protect a convertible top using RaggTopp products.


NEW Haartz/RaggTopp Convertible Top Brush - How to clean and protect a convertible top


Plus a technique I developed instead of following the directions. (something I rarely do)


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:)
 
The first time I ever used a product like that, my neighbor's daughter ran her front drivers side brake metal to metal for about two months. Come spring, most of the left side and rear was heavily contaminated. The door of the Ford Mustang was about completely coated. The Meguiar's aggressive clay wasn't doing much of anything.

It would have been a very, very difficult task removing all that iron with a clay bar. It even took over half the 16oz bottle to remove it all. Like three or four applications on that door alone. I really wish I had taken pictures of that before and after.
 
Great article Mike. :props:

Iron contamination isn't only reserved for older vehicles either aye Mike. For reasons unknown (because no one has found out or bothered to get back to me) Ford New Zealand appears to park their new vehicles near a rail yard when they arrive in New Zealand or at least before they're shipped here.

I had a run of New Fords at the shop from the local Ford dealership that had heavy Iron contamination.





Nice bump on this one Mike. Iron removers are kind of an unsung hero, or at least we take them for granted a little.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
 
Aaryn NZ said:
Great article Mike. :props:

Iron contamination isn't only reserved for older vehicles either aye Mike. For reasons unknown (because no one has found out or bothered to get back to me) Ford New Zealand appears to park their new vehicles near a rail yard when they arrive in New Zealand or at least before they're shipped here.

I had a run of New Fords at the shop from the local Ford dealership that had heavy Iron contamination.





Nice bump on this one Mike. Iron removers are kind of an unsung hero, or at least we take them for granted a little.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
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if there was ever a prize for the best iron remover/decontamination photo this Ford would definitely be a contender.
 
Aaryn NZ said:
Great article Mike. :props:
Click to expand...


Thanks Aaryn,

Had to do a little "thinking" to figure out how to explain this to the average car owner.


Thinking is the hardest work there is, that' why so few engage in it -Henry Ford



Aaryn NZ said:
Iron contamination isn't only reserved for older vehicles either aye Mike. For reasons unknown (because no one has found out or bothered to get back to me) Ford New Zealand appears to park their new vehicles near a rail yard when they arrive in New Zealand or at least before they're shipped here.
Click to expand...


Insects attracted to a Bug Zapper?



Aaryn NZ said:
I had a run of New Fords at the shop from the local Ford dealership that had heavy Iron contamination.

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Freaking AMAZING picture Aaryn! Thank you for adding to my article :dblthumb2:



Aaryn NZ said:
Nice bump on this one Mike. Iron removers are kind of an unsung hero, or at least we take them for granted a little.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...


I tell people it's an OPTIONAL step, you don't have to do it but in my experience and opinion, like I share in the first post of this thread, it's good insurance to at least use it ONCE for your initial detail anytime you,

  • Buy a new car
  • Buy a used car



:)
 
wow great picture, that's a lot of crap on that car
 
I honestly thought I had the worst case of that. But boy was I wrong. That Ford is out on another level...all on its own.
 
Aaryn NZ said:
Great article Mike. :props:

Iron contamination isn't only reserved for older vehicles either aye Mike. For reasons unknown (because no one has found out or bothered to get back to me) Ford New Zealand appears to park their new vehicles near a rail yard when they arrive in New Zealand or at least before they're shipped here.

I had a run of New Fords at the shop from the local Ford dealership that had heavy Iron contamination.





Nice bump on this one Mike. Iron removers are kind of an unsung hero, or at least we take them for granted a little.


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

Plenty of crap on them coming from your way as well,,,rail dust was fairly common on most cars coming from Japan in the 90's but I'm not really sure if it was from train rides to or from the docks,sitting in big yards waiting to be shipped or from transport trucks.

We mainly used acid based fallout remover for it or a claybar ,,times have changed though and I should probably order some sort of Iron Remover,,it's probably a lot less caustic than acid based products,,and more gentle.
 
Thanks for sharing.....


Makes the point and just goes to show...


You don't know if your car's paint is contaminated until you use a color-changing iron remover.

But remember - it's better to use an iron remover and NOT see any color changing effect than it is to use an iron remover and find out your car's paint is/was chemically contaminated.


If it does change colors then you have peace-of-mind that you have removed the corrosion-causing substances to stop the attack and deterioration.



Remember the factory clear on a new car is only 2 mils thin. So do your due diligence and then take the proper steps.


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips


:)
 
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