The Final Wipe

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
6
The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish


detail-196.jpg

1959 Chevrolet El Camino - Extreme Makeover




Note: The final wiping technique is not for the initial wiping-off of the wax or paint sealant, but instead is for after the majority of product has been already been removed and now all you’re doing is giving the finish a final wipe.


Turning a diamond in the rough into a glistening gemstone
You started early in the morning by washing the car, then you clayed the paint, then removed all the swirls and scratches, then polished the finish to a super high gloss and after that you applied your favorite wax or paint sealant. You’ve taken a diamond in the rough and turned it into a glistening gemstone. After removing the wax or the paint sealant it’s time to give the paint one last final wipe to remove any trace residues and showcase all your hard work.

Here’s a tip to help you insure there are no streaks or smears left on the paint and a technique that on some hard to work on paints that might be just the ticket for creating the perfect finish in any lighting condition.


The Final Wipe
After all the work is done, when it’s time to give the paint the final wipe-down before you stand back and say to yourself it is finished, and then you take your pride and joy for a spin around the block or turn the keys back over to the owner, you usually want and need to give the paint a final wipe-down to insure you didn’t miss any spots and to remove any trace residues off the paint that can stand out like a sore thumb in the right light at the right angle that will so easily distract everyone’s attention from the work of art you’ve created.

This technique can often times help you to remove any stubborn streaks or uneven looking areas on the paint, and it’s exactly opposite of what I’ve often seen enthusiasts and detailers do my entire car detailing life.


The Technique
The technique is to wipe the paint down slowly using your best, premium quality microfiber polishing cloth using gentle, even pressure. Fold your polishing cloth 4-ways to provide plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand as best as you can over the face of the folded microfiber.

Fold your microfiber polishing cloth to create plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand and to give you 8 dedicated wiping sides.
detail-193.jpg


detail-194.jpg


detail-195.jpg


detail-196.jpg



The secret to this technique is purposefully moving your hand and wiping cloth s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint, not like a spastic crazy guy moving his hand at light-speed over the surface.
detail-197.jpg




How it works
The way this works is really quite simple but let me break it down for you into simple terms so everyone can understand. When making the final wipe, your job is to remove all trace residues from the previously applied wax or paint sealant; that’s your job.

While to the human eye the surface of your car’s paint looks smooth and flat, under a microscope it’s actually a landscape of hills and valleys, (which is high spots and low spots), as well as pits and pores and interstices. (Interstices = microscopic gaps and cracks in the paint)

Trace residues remain in the lower imperfections on the surface and when you move a polishing cloth over the surface the fiber’s of the polishing cloth grab onto and removes residues off the high points the easiest.

Again, your job is to remove all the trace residues and do it in such a way that you do no harm to the highly polished surface at the same time, thus you need to use a premium quality microfiber, folded 4-ways to help spread out the pressure of your hand.

Now think about it, if you’re moving the microfiber quickly over the surface how much time do the residues on the surface have to transfer to the cloth? Seconds? Milliseconds? That’s not very long.

That’s why wiping like a mad man won’t remove streaks or residues and could possibly inflict swirls and scratches back into the finish.



Slow down to speed up
Instead, how about moving the polishing cloth slowly over the surface and enabling the microscopic sized fibers to get into the low portions where once they make contact with any remaining wax or polymers, the residue will have time to transfer from the paint to the cloth?

This is called the final wiping technique and most people would agree it makes sense. It also works most of the time for stubborn streaks that sometimes show up on dark colored paints but it’s also just a good technique when working on highly polished surfaces where your or your customer’s expectations are high.





If you’ve ever spent upwards of 8 hours and/or longer polishing out the paint to perfection on your car, or a customer’s car then you know how much work goes into,


  • Washing the car.
  • Evaluating the surface.
  • Claying the paint.
  • Taping off trim, body lines, emblems and badges as well as hard, thin edges.
  • Removing swirls, scratches and other paint imperfections.
  • Polishing the paint to a high gloss.
  • Applying the wax or paint sealant.
  • Removing the tape and carefully wiping off any left-over residues around body lines and trim.
  • Removing the first and subsequent coats of wax or paint sealant.


Now it’s time for the final wipe and the last thing you want is to do anything that could potentially instill any new swirls or scratches into the now pristine finish.

That’s why as you progress through the process, after each step you have to be more and more careful when wiping off any compounds or polishes and usually as you progress through the process the quality of your wiping cloth increases along with your carefulness as that’s how show car finishes are achieved.

You can’t just wipe with any old towel and do it in any old way. Show car work demands focusing on the task at hand and using your best skills and your best tools to reach the goal of a flawless show car finish.

Rushing at the very end doesn’t make sense and if you instill swirls and scratches because you’re wiping off the car like a lunatic or not using your best quality polishing cloths, then that’s working backwards in the process.


Simply put, sometimes you have to slow down to speed up.


That is, sometimes using a slow wiping motion, or slow rate of travel, will be more effective at removing all trace residues and enable to reach your goal versus moving your hand and polishing cloth quickly over the paint. Sure at the end of the process you’re tired and ready to clean-up and be done with the car but the technique you use for your final wipe-down of the paint needs to be calculated, methodical and precise. And after you make the final pass and you lift your hand and polishing cloth off the paint you can stand back and admire your work and then say, “It is finished”.


The Final Wipe is also demonstrated in this video...


How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine





This how-to video also covers,

  • RIDS - Random Isolated Deeper Scratches
  • Removing watches and any jewelery
  • Using a DA Polisher without the handle
  • Placing cord over shoulder
  • Priming the pad on a DA Polisher
  • Speed settings for removing isolated defects
  • Downward pressure needed for removing isolated defects
  • How to clean a pad on the fly
  • Where and why to mark your backing plate with a black mark
  • Rotating the body of the tool to keep the pad flat to a panel
  • Why to allow the pad to stop spinning before lifting the pad off the paint
  • How to swap backing plates from a 3.5" to a 5"
  • Machine waxing using 5.5" Hydro-Tech Crimson Finishing pads with Menzerna Power Lock
  • The "Kissing the Finish" Technique
  • How to do the Swipe Test to check if a wax or paint sealant is dry
  • How to remove dried paint sealant using a microfiber bonnet on a dry pad on a DA Polisher
  • How to clean a microfiber bonnet on the fly with your fingernails
  • How to apply a paste wax by machine - Souveran Paste Wax
  • How to carefully wipe a WOWO wax off by hand using Microfiber Gloves and plush Microfiber Towels
  • How and why to fold a microfiber towel 4-ways to wipe wax off
  • How to break-open a coat of wax and then creep out to carefully wipe off a coating of wax
  • How to do the "Final Wipe"






Products Mentioned
Porter Cable 7424XP
Meguiar's G110
Lake Country Foam Pads
Microfiber Polishing Bonnets
Microfiber Smock
Premium Quality Microfibers
Mist & Wipe Quick Detailers
Carnauba Waxes
Paint Sealants


Further Reading
Tips & Techniques for using the Porter Cable 7424XP
2008 Lexus IS 250 - Pinnacle Detail
What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats




:)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Question: Hey Mike, what about using a quick detailer for the final wipe?

scratchhead.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Question: Hey Mike, what about using a quick detailer for a final wipe?

Good Question!

Answer: Sure! You can do this if you like, it’s up to you. For the final wipe you can use your favorite quick detailer to give the finish a final wipe and this is a great way to remove any streaks and insure a uniform appearance over the entire car as well as help you to remove any trace residues that you’re eyes might have missed.

D.O. Enthusiasts and Detailers
Keep in mind that this article is written for an online audience of both enthusiast detailers as well as a few professional detailers that tend to be very A.R., (Anal Retentive), or as I like to say, D.O. which means Detailer Oriented, (sounds better, I hate using the term A.R.), and for this audience they’re looking for getting the maximum features and benefits from their LSP or Last Step Product, which is usually a wax or a paint sealant and some of these people would prefer not to wipe the finish down with any liquids until after a window of time has passed to allow all the protection ingredients to fully cure or set-up.


Leaving the maximum protection ingredients behind on he surface
The issue is about leaving as much protection on the surface as possible and the concern is if you wipe the paint down with some type of quick detailer, (a liquid), and a microfiber, (even though it’s gentle, it’s more aggressive than not touching the paint at all), after just having removed a fresh coat of wax or paint sealant, you’re disrupting the protection ingredients and probably removing some of them off the surface to some degree. This defeats the purpose of putting them on in the first place because with most D.O. enthusiasts and detailers, the goal is to leave behind as much protection possible.

The Ultimate Goal (The reason most people are waxing their cars)
The idea being to wipe the dried wax or paint sealant off the paint and then quit touching it until after the protection ingredients have fully set-up so you’ll leave the maximum amount of protection ingredients on the paint to cure or set-up.

So the Final Wipe Technique is a technique for giving your car’s paint a final, slow wipe to remove any unseen trace residue after first removing the majority of the wax so the paint looks great in any lighting condition while leaving the maximum protection ingredients on the surface.

It also provides comfort to the D.O. Enthusiasts or as they are also referred to as detailers with OCD which means, Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, so they can sleep at night knowing they left the maximum amount of protection ingredients on the surface, otherwise they might not sleep or eat.

In the end, it’s personal preference, give the paint a slow, gentle final wipe using only a soft, plush microfiber polishing cloth or give the paint a final wipe using a soft, plush microfiber polishing cloth together with your favorite mist & wipe quick detailer. Just depends upon your personality and your goals.


Products Mentioned
Mist & Wipe Quick Detailers
 
Last edited by a moderator:
:awman:You're absolutely right,unfortunately Ive looked at those streaks the next day because I was rushing and tired.I guess I"II have to add this to my learning curve,this damn OCD!
 
This is a great post!!!, I help myself so much!
 
Thanks Mike i'm also gulity of moving to fast and leaving streaks or left over residue.I just find it hard to slow down just the way i'am since at work i'am always running around.Will try that technique next time.
 
I am also guilty of going fast...will slow it down next time :)
 
Another easily overlooked minor detail: make sure your hands are clean and oil-free. If your MF is busy absorbing any oil from your hand as you press lightly upon it, then that side will be less effective at wiping away excess product once it comes to rotating that side of the towel to the working surface.
 
Is admitting your guilt of hurrying this step part of the twelve step process to get over your D.O.'ness, or is it just fanning the flame? :D

Either way - gulity.

DLB
 
Another easily overlooked minor detail: make sure your hands are clean and oil-free.

Great tip.

All my career I've always made it a habit to wash my hands when it comes to applying the LSP and removing it but never once shared that in a post, so thanks for adding this to the thread.

For the grunt work of removing swirls and such it's not a big deal but when you go to the last step, even when working by machine, take a moment to wash your hands and clean-up a little, same thing when it's time to remove you LSP, make sure your hands are clean and then to some level try to enjoy this last step procedure.

:xyxthumbs:
 
Ahhhhhhh..thanks..those darn streaks have been driving me crazy. I will go in "slo mo" from now on. Thanks a million !!!
 
i always wait a few hours after waxing and hit the paint work again with a nice fluffy microfiber towel. and after reading mike posts i go nice and slow now and its alot better
 
Love reading your posts Mike. It's also reassuring to me to hear from someone like your self that what I am doing is correct. I know that may sound vain or arrogant but that is not my intention-I am just simply proud of my A.R.'dness as you put it haha.

As you have said in many of your posts you have to protect the work you have done while in the LSP. One way I do this is to keep all of my paint correcting microfibers in a sealed container with my softest and best towels on the bottom and stacking the more "aggressive" towels consecutively on top. They kinda go with my pads and the polishing process whereas when compounding say with an orange LC pad I use the most aggressive mf of the bunch from the top of the pile and work my way down to the softer MF'rs as you would work up to a softer polishing pad. This way you are always using your softest mf that needs to be used for the current application.

Hope that makes sense-still trying to get the hang of getting my thoughts into words that make sense. Something you do very well I have to say.

Thanks again-I stay up way too late reading this stuff!
 
Excellent read Mike,

But I must say that when I first read this I thought it was full of crap but as I read through it, it was making sense.

I have a E90 BMW which is three years old and the paint work is very good condition and wash weekly and find myself waxing monthly.

My wax of choice has been MaxWax but up till now have been more than frustrated with it. At the time of buffing off, things looked great but when I saw it the following day I could see a haze in the paint work and required a QD to bring it back. I thought I was applying a very thin coat of wax but as I found out today, this was not the case.

Today, I did the usual and due to the amount of rain we have had over the past few weeks I thought it may be wise for a wax - this time I put the wax down in a very very thin coat, to the point where you could only see the wax coat under certain light conditions. The applicator was gliding over the paint and not biting the surface so I knew wax was down.

I left this for 2 hours and then removed with terry-towing. At this stage things were really looking awesome.

Then come 'THE FINAL WIPE' (With Microfibre cloth).

Normally I would be quick as a Rat Up A Drain Pipe, but this time I slowed it right down.

The end result is nothing less than breath taking. A Sparkling Graphite BMW in the sun just looks better than sex......... or am I doing it wrong. :-)

Tanks again Mike - Just fantastic. I thought I knew a lot about detailing but this just tops it.

Pete
 
Excellent read Mike,

But I must say that when I first read this I thought it was full of crap but as I read through it, it was making sense.

Tanks again Mike - Just fantastic. I thought I knew a lot about detailing but this just tops it.

Pete

Thanks Pete...

Good Article Mike! Thank you

Thanks Corey...

Sometimes you can go faster by slowing down, sometimes you can get the results you are truly looking for by simply slowing down...

Here's a few related articles for all the Members and Lurkers that might read this into the future...

How to correctly fold and use a Microfiber Towel

The 4 minimum categories of wiping cloths

How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?


:)
 
This is truly such a great tip. Ever since I have read this article, I have been going nice and slow with amazing results. Just steps ur work up that extra notch. Works really with "oily" type waxes. Haste makes waste as they say.
 
IMO, the final wipe is so important, there is nothing worse than seeing corrections that need to be made while the customer is standing their next to you. I invested in some micro fiber type gloves (got them in Korea) and I wear them in addition to the MF towel when doing the final wipe. Always keep a fine bristle brush and q-tips handy as I go along, the inside of that gas tank cover can be tough getting the wax out of.
 
Back
Top