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Anyone watch?
Comments?
Good, Bad? Ugly?
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Cool video! I enjoy watching these with a bowl of popcorn!
I myself love the Beast and the CBeast. I couldn’t be without a forced rotation DA machine.
Soon will be adding the Supa Beast to my Flex family.
I’m glad you mentioned the backing plate is a wear item. A good way to tell is when edging, if the pad starts walking off the center of the backing plate. Then it’s time.
You would also be surprised at the adhesion strength from a worn backing plate compared to a new one.
For anyone using these machines heavily, I highly suggest keeping a spare backing plate in stock.
Anyone watch?
Comments?
Good, Bad? Ugly?
Very informative.
Your assistant’s interruptions disrupts the flow of your demonstration.
My honest feedback.
I ordered one yesterday, but it turns out I bought the FLEX 15mm battery operated polisher. It’s already been shipped.
Oops.
That’s what I get for placing an order at five in the morning.
Yeah. seriously. Might keep it, though.
I could practice on some fleet vehicles out in the parking lot at work. Or actually do some mobile detail jobs.
Got it for 25% off at least.
I read the fine print, I don’t think AG covers return shipping on items bought in error.
Using the techniques taught by Mike in our class, I have detailed my 1967 GTO.
Now that I have experience with a wide range of products, I can purchase with confidence. The result was terrific. Many thanks to Mike for this class.
As Mike can attest, my GTO was covered with swirls and holograms. Mike said it was typical of what a body shop turns out.
I purchased the Flex XFE15 150 Cordless Orbital polisher (The Finisher)and used this process:
- Washed using Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
- Clayed
- Compounded with Sonax CutMax using Uro_Tech 7" Maroon Pads
- Polished with Sonax Perfect Finish using Lake Country 6.5" White Pads
- Surface cleaned with Black Fire Paint Prep.
- Applied Pinnacle Souveran Past Wax
I thought the GTO looked great before, now it absolutely awesome! The results are impressive! (at least to me)
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-Rick
My First Detail Job Other than my own cars! ( Long Post)
So... short story.
I was attending a local monthly Show and Shine event and saw a really pretty 1967 Vette. As I got closer (nice sunny day BTW) I was stunned by the MAJOR holograms. As I walked around the Vette and looked at the hood... WOW Serious wool swirls! The swirls we so bad they actually obscured the paint.
I asked the owner to stand by me so he could see the swirls. He was amazed and had not see the car like that in the sun. I told him that was what you get from a typical paint shop. The owner said the car was painted a month ago.
It could be such a beautiful car... I told him I could buff all that away if he was interested. After some discussion, we agreed on a price.
So he brought to Vette over this morning and using the techniques I learned in Mike's 2 day detailing class,
I decontaminated, foam washed, compounded and polished the Vette. The entire process took about 8 hours.
The result was stunning... it was like a different car.
The owner was beyond pleased with the result. I do this as a hobby, but I couldn't stand to see that Vette left in this condition. I was so very proud of the result, the "Reveal in the Sunshine" made all the work worthwhile. You can actually see the clouds perfectly in the hood.
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The Vette is getting paint protection film next week and will be back for ceramic coating to complete the job.
- Sonax compound and polish
- Flex Finisher (Battery Powered)
- Combination of Maroon Uro-Tech (Compound) and
- White Lake Country pads (Polish)
This was really fun :xyxthumbs:
Rick
Austin, TX
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I’m getting murdered in the labor but hopefully we can change that when they start seeing the finished products and see the profitability it will bring.
I'm hoping you'll see and your managers will see the decrease in time spent machine polishing (due to zero pad stalling) with super high quality results.
What are you using for the paint correction step with these polishers?
Also - what pads?
Keep us updated please.
:cheers:
so I’ve been doing
- clay bar,
- BF one step with
- white or orange hybrid pads
- with my BEAST.
Also thank you Mike, Autogeek, and members of this forum. Your posts are very helpful in keeping me motivated and geared up.
Mike, I just bought a CBeast as I was tired of the GG9 stalling on the “complex” body lines of my ’12 Acura TL.
Do you ever run into paint where you CAN’T address with pads and products using a forced-rotation Flex and have to switch to free-spinning to finish down?
I’m hoping/expecting I can just use the CBeast as my one stop shop with my pad collection (Rupes. Uro-Tec) and numerous compounds/polishes to address my hobbyist paint correction needs.
Thanks.
Hang tight, I'll try to find the time stamp as to when I talk about it.
What made you decide to finish out with the G110 vs the Flex? Pad size selection or the non forced rotation maybe?
Mike Phillips said:Good question...
I find on softer paints like this car has that the PC style with a Fine Cut Polish finishes out nicer than with the more powerful Flex 3401.
The paint on this car was incredibly soft.
I only did my test spot using the Flex 3401 and end-results were acceptable, I did the 8mm free spinning step just to "make sure".
I also machine applied the wax using the Meguiar's G110 polisher.
M Z said:Why would you finish off with this cordless one ?
Or could you finish the job with the beast as well, and do a perfect or identical job as with the cordless finisher ?
Mike Phillips said:Generally speaking - a free spinning random orbital polisher will finish out nicer on the widest spectrum of paint systems than a gear-driven orbital polisher.
Make sense?
I thought I had read that before. Thanks Mike. Great explanation and resource you are. Appreciate it!
And thank you for making me spend way too much to become an “expert” hobbyist detailer.![]()
***Placeholder***
As I get time, I'll include buffing pad options for all three polishers here.
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***BUMP***
Mike, did you ever show the buffing pad options for these three polishers? Or did I miss it somewhere?
Thanks, Greg
Ha ha.... I did write 2 new articles for this topic but never circled back to include them in this article.
Here's the most recent article where I includes B&S pads
Mike Phillips recommended foam pads for the FLEX Family of BEAST 8mm Gear-Driven Orbital Polishers
I get asked a LOT about which pads to get for the FLEX family of BEAST tools. If you don't know, the BEAST family of tools includes,
FLEX XC 3401 VRG - the original and also known as The BEAST - and the BEAST is spelled with all capital letters. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.
FLEX XCE 10-8 125 aka The Supa BEAST - Supa is short for super and only the first letter is capitalized. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.
FLEX XCE 8-125 18.0 aka The CBEAST - All capital letters and the letter C before the word BEAST simply stands for cordless. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.
As of February 9th, 2021 - here are my preferred choices for pads for compounding, polishing, finishing work and when using AIOs
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Here's the previous article - both articles have lots of extra info.
Buffing Pad Recommendations for the FLEX BEASTS Trio - BEAST - Supa BEAST - CBEAST
Lake Country and RUPES Foam Buffing Pads for the FLEX BEAST Trio
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And this one is important too....
Supa BEAST and CBEAST Backing Plate Swap by Mike Phillips
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It's what I do - create content.
:buffing:
The FLEX BEAST, Supa BEAST & CBEAST - 8mm Gear-Driven Orbital Polishers
Currently there are 3 versions of the FLEX BEAST available.
From left to right,
The Supa BEAST, the BEAST and the CBEAST
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FLEX XC 3401 VRG
- 480 RPM and 9,600 OPM.
- Comes from the factory with a 6" Backing Plate.
The FLEX XC 3401 VRG is the original corded BEAST. The word BEAST is spelled with all capital letters. This is an 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit - orbital polisher. It's easily identified by the visible aluminum shroud at the head of the polisher.
FLEX XCE 10-8 125
- 430 RPM and 8,600 OPM
- Comes from the factory with a 5" backing plate.
This is the newest evolution of the original corded BEAST. I call it the Supa BEAST. The word Supa is short for super and only the first letter in the word Supa is capitalized and the word BEAST is all capital letters. Like the original BEAST, this is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit - orbital polisher. I personally use and recommend swapping out the factory 5" backing plate and installing the optional 6" backing plate. This enables you to use larger buffing pads and thus take full advantage of the power this tool offers with a larger footprint.
FLEX XCE 8-125 18.0
- 380 RPM and 7,600 OPM
- Comes from the factory with a 5" backing plate.
This is the CORDLESS BEAST aka the CBEAST . The word CBEAST is spelled with all capital letters and the letter C before the word BEAST simply stands for cordless. Like the original BEAST, this is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit - orbital polisher using Lithium-Ion re-chargeable batteries.
The original FLEX XC 3401 VRG 8mm gear-driven orbital polisher.
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The FLEX Supa BEAST
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The FLEX CBEAST
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Body Design Changes
They are all roughly the same size and weight. In these pictures you can easily see the exposed aluminum head on the original 3401. The new design of the Supa BEAST and the CBEAST incorporate the handle into the head of the tool with a rubber overmold. With the original design, if the tool is dropped, it's possible for the handle to break. By removing the handle, breakage is now a non-issue.
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Brushless Motor Technology
The newer Supa BEAST And CBEAST use FLEX brushless electric motors so there's never any brushes to wear out or replace. If you have the original BEAST an need to replace the brushes, here's a how-to video that shows you how to do it yourself.
Backing Plate Swap - Maximizing the ability of the Supa BEAST
After using all three of these tool extensively, my own personal preference is to invest in the larger 6" backing plate for the corded Supa BEAST. Being a corded model it has TONS of power and turning and churning larger pads is no problem. So, might as well take advantage of the power and of course, ZERO PAD STALLING and use larger pads that enable you to tackler more real-estate to get any detail job done faster.
Here's the link to the larger, optional 6" backing plate.
FLEX XFE 7-15 6 inch Backing Plate
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My take on the three different BEAST options?
I get asked about these three different variations all the time. Here's my take,
The BEAST
If I REALLY want to bust-out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST. The extra RPM and OPM are just a tick more than the Supa BEAST - BUT - if I'm in a hurry - I'll take full advantage of the extra speed and power.
The Supa BEAST
If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast. It's much more enjoyable to use. It's an amazing tool. I would even say it's a freaking amazing tool. Compared to the original BEAST, it offers these 4 benefits.
- Smoother
- Quieter
- Lighter
- Cooler
The CBEAST
If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches and these defects are shallow then I'll use the CBEAST. This also means I've done a TEST SPOT and found the paint corrects easy meaning the paint hardness is in the medium to soft range but definitely not what I would consider hard paint, then the pleasure of not hassling with a power cord cannot be understated. I love the freedom of no cord. Alas - most of the cars I detail are severely neglected with lots of swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation so I don't use the CBEAST as often as I wish I could.
Tool choice for me is about the condition of the paint and the speed in which I want to plow through the job.
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