The "Impossible" Happened: Purchased a Brand New Car... Never researched how to properly care for the paint!

[Ohio Detailing]

Paging Car Doctor Phillips!

Well, the seemingly impossible happened, and I purchase a brand new 2010 Jeep Patriot with 11 miles on it this week! Throughout all my research and detailing experience, I have never done any intensive reading or practical application of the best methods to care for and maintain a pristine new vehicle's paint (because I have only owned and detailed used vehicles).

So now that we couldn't turn down the invoice pricing and 0% APR - we have a bright Sunburst Orange Patriot sitting in the driveway! We searched far and wide for a dealer with that exact paint color, because it is gorgeous and similar to the Lamborghini Competition Orange colors that is also seen on the Corvette Z's.

My questions are...
1. Due to work load and other responsibilities, after owning the car for a few days, believe it or not I have not had a chance to wash it (GASP!) However I have spray-detailed it twice with brand new first-use microfibers and VERY liberal QD misting to avoid any scratching. So my first question is... with factory fresh pain that only has a few miles on it, what would the best process/products be to perform as soon as I have time to create a good health basis for the longevity of the paint health and vibrancy?

2. Since we do not have access to a garage... the Patriot will be parked in the sun, susceptible to the elements 24 hours a day into the foreseeable future (although I should mention there are NO TREES or possibility of sap, tar) what process/products should I perform to ensure the vehicle is shielded as much as possible from any contaminants and UV light damage?

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

 

[Ohio Detailing]

PS: They tried to upsell me on Xzilion paint sealant - HAHAHAHAHA!!!! CLASSIC! "Air Force One uses it..." bla bla bla. OVER $600 TO HAVE THIS 'MAGICAL' sealant applied - unreal! :bash:

I see how you feel about it Mike... basically just take care of the car and regularly wax and maintain Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online - View Single Post - Snake Oil???

 

[steed76]

I'm not the "know all" by any stretch of imagination.. but your car sounds like a good candidate for some klasse.. topped with soverign... more experienced will definitely chime in.

 

[Ohio Detailing]

I'm not the "know all" by any stretch of imagination.. but your car sounds like a good candidate for some klasse.. topped with soverign... more experienced will definitely chime in.

Thanks so much for the suggestion! I was thinking the same thing, a nice sealant (cure for 36 hours, right?) topped with a lustrous carnauba or Souveran. ​

I have some Pinnacle Souveran (Finally Liquid Souveran Wax achieves the Pinnacle of Perfection. Liquid Souveran Carnauba Wax has the ease of a liquid wax with the protection and) that a fellow forum member traded to me a couple years ago; it has been kept out of the sun - it should still be just as effective as new right? Also, would the liquid or paste be the best choice?

 

[maximus20895]

I don't think your suppose to seal or wax the paint until 30,60 or 90 days..

 

[CEE DOG]

Congratualtions!!! I am very happy for you. Im the MAN

 

[Ohio Detailing]

I don't think your suppose to seal or wax the paint until 30,60 or 90 days..

Ahhh, good point! I forgot about this... I'm not sure when the actual manufacturing date was or how long it was on the lot, so with that information I should be able to make a well informed decision. Would any of my paperwork disclose the date my car was manufactured and assembled/painted?

Congratualtions!!! I am very happy for you. Im the MAN

Thanks! I have been driving the same 1990's piece of you-know-what that has had more problems than I can recall from memory - so it was definitely a necessary purchase

 

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

I don't think your suppose to seal or wax the paint until 30,60 or 90 days..

This only applies to a repaint. The factory finish is good to go becasue its baked on :dblthumb2: much different than a paint job from a body shop. Very good catch though rops:

Ahhh, good point! I forgot about this... I'm not sure when the actual manufacturing date was or how long it was on the lot, so with that information I should be able to make a well informed decision. Would any of my paperwork disclose the date my car was manufactured and assembled/painted?

It should probably be somewhere in the door like where your tire pressure chart is

 

[Ohio Detailing]

This only applies to a repaint. The factory finish is good to go becasue its baked on :dblthumb2: much different than a paint job from a body shop. Very good catch though rops:



It should probably be somewhere in the door like where your tire pressure chart is

Thank you SO much! I will look when I get back outside; although the manf. date doesn't matter now, since like you said these finishes are baked on. Why don't body shops bake on paint if it is so effective at the factory? Thanks again.

 

[rwright]

Thank you SO much! I will look when I get back outside; although the manf. date doesn't matter now, since like you said these finishes are baked on. Why don't body shops bake on paint if it is so effective at the factory? Thanks again.

Due to the extreme heat it could melt plastics and trim on the vehicle. The shells are painted, baked, then assembled!

 

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

Due to the extreme heat it could melt plastics and trim on the vehicle. The shells are painted, baked, then assembled!

right on brotha ... no parts in the car when they get painted at the factory. Plus it would have to be a very big shop and lots of money to have a set up like the factory has

 

[ScottB]

you need to setup a proper detailing regimine immediately and stick to it. New cars are ready to prep properly and starting now is much easier than later after allowing the elements to attack.

Wash --- obviously a good 1 step, but also get some Optimum ONR for quick wipes and washes when time is short.

Clay --- It is still suggested that a first time clay is done to properly remove any rail dust or other contaminents while car was traveling and sitting on lot.

Polish or Paint Cleanser --- time is decision factor as is the shape of the paint. If its clean and good you might just wanna use a paint cleanser to prep paint. If you have buffer and time make sure to extract all the gloss and reflection now as it will pay dividends in future with less polishing needed (provided you use good wash and dry techniques)

Protect --- Based upon your assertion of weather 24/7, you need to concentrate on a hearty wax (Collonite) or a paint sealant. I personally would get a bottle of Menzerna Powerlock or DP's Polycoat and start there. You can certainly choose to top with Liquid Souveran as desired.

I would also pickup a good detail spray or spray wax booster and use it consistently when washing. Something nice like Optimum or Finishkare will help. If you like crisp consider FK146 or warmer then FK425

 

[So.Cal.]

When my Camaro was repainted years ago it was baked on, and baked between primer/sealer, base, and pearl, then finally clear. After all this I was still told to wait 30 days before waxing. Wash only with mild soap by hand and after 30 days I could use 3m hand glaze for 60 days before waxing.

Also, a spray booth is a lot cheaper then a down draft spray/bake booth. That’s why you can spend $500.00 to paint a car or 5K ++++

Ok so since I have a few free mins to kill on lunch I called DuPont just to run the question by the people who make the paint.
Per The person I spoke to.

Read the owners manual.

He said he was surprised that his said wait 6 months for Waxing. What they tell the body shops whether it’s a Bake booth or not is 120 days. He reason was even though the paint is dry and hard to the touch. It still can release solvents for some time. They only recommend that you can use a "fast wax" I clarified this as a quick detailer. His explanation as we know already was it’s not like a carnauba that will clog up the pours as he put it.
I asked him if this also applied to the paint protection they provide and he explained he could not answer that since that was made by a different division of DuPont.
Hope that helps, Let us know what the owner’s manual says.

 

[longdx]

First off congratulations on your new car. I am in a similar position and about to pull the trigger on a new (new to me 1 year old) vehicle after driving the wheels off of my daily drive. I agree with some of the earlier posts. (clay the vehicle=you will be surprised of how much contamination will be on the paint. This is due in large part of the transport and storage of the vehicle to the dealership), check to see if the paint needs any correction at that point, and then seal with a quality sealant since it will be out 24/7 (you can always put a carnuba based wax over that if you want a warmer glow). BTW, that is a cool color and really sets off the vehicle. Best of luck with it.

 

[Da Fats]

I don't think your suppose to seal or wax the paint until 30,60 or 90 days..

That car was painted well more then 90 days ago most likely... wax away!

 

[Da Fats]

Also OPT Car wax is a super easy spray wax that boasts both UVA and UVB protection for those cars out in the sun all day long. might be a good product for you claims up to 5 months duration but its so easy you will use it a lot more then that

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

you need to setup a proper detailing regimen immediately and stick to it.

I agree with Scott.

Cars only go downhill in their appearance value when neglected over time. You're questions is the idea behind,

"Find something you like and use it often"


Your brand new Jeep came with enough UV protection in the clear layer of paint to protect the pigmented or basecoat layer from fading or failing. Your job is to take care of the clear layer and preserve it. Additional UV protection provided by a wax or paint sealant won't hurt, but the primary protection for the basecoat will come from the UV protection in the clearcoat, so take GREAT care of the clear coat by keeping it clean and sealed with either a quality wax or paint sealant and the paint should last and look good over the service life of the car.

If a car is going to be parked outside 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, instead of relying on a wax or paint sealant to maintain a show car shine, plan on washing, using spray detailers and applying your favorite wax or paint sealant more often than you would a car you don't care about.

Find something that applies easy, wipes off easy and leave a great looking finish and then use it often...


I'm a fan of orange colors and especially like the Sunburst Orange, in order to maximize clarity to really bring out the full richness of color go with any of the Pinnacle waxes, if you're going to wax often then shoot for top of the line and get Pinnacle Souveran.

You'll love the way the paint looks after using this wax and it has to be one of the easiest waxes to apply and remove and that makes using it often a cinch.

Congratulations!


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Ohio Detailing]

you need to setup a proper detailing regimine immediately and stick to it. New cars are ready to prep properly and starting now is much easier than later after allowing the elements to attack.

Wash --- obviously a good 1 step, but also get some Optimum ONR for quick wipes and washes when time is short.

Clay --- It is still suggested that a first time clay is done to properly remove any rail dust or other contaminents while car was traveling and sitting on lot.

Polish or Paint Cleanser --- time is decision factor as is the shape of the paint. If its clean and good you might just wanna use a paint cleanser to prep paint. If you have buffer and time make sure to extract all the gloss and reflection now as it will pay dividends in future with less polishing needed (provided you use good wash and dry techniques)

Protect --- Based upon your assertion of weather 24/7, you need to concentrate on a hearty wax (Collonite) or a paint sealant. I personally would get a bottle of Menzerna Powerlock or DP's Polycoat and start there. You can certainly choose to top with Liquid Souveran as desired.

I would also pickup a good detail spray or spray wax booster and use it consistently when washing. Something nice like Optimum or Finishkare will help. If you like crisp consider FK146 or warmer then FK425

AWESOME POST. Just washed the Jeep for the first time last night, just as the sun was starting to set, so there was no direct sunlight and the entire process was great. We used a 2-bucket method, and applied spray-wax as we dried followed by a 2nd spray-wax application to the dry paint to remove any remaining streaks or water spots and give the paint a good pop and depth.

Trust me that when I say I have not had time to do an actual wax/sealant on the vehicle yet, it's the truth! I know a lot of people claim to be pressed for time, as they play Modern Warfare for hours on end, haha! I want nothing more than to apply a good sealant, topped with an amazing double or triple coat of carnuaba. I have heard so much about Optimum's ONR I am going to have to pick some up (can this be used as a traditional wash, or only as intended and demonstrated on the website as a 'waterless' panel-by-panel wash or QD?)

Although I am concerned about durability, so I don't have to re-wax/seal every time I am off work for a day, I am most concerned about pure protection. If I am most concerned with simply protecting the paint and doing ALL in my power to maintain the out-of-the-showroom dealership-fresh paint health for years to come... would you change your sealant/wax suggestions?

THANKS!

 

[Ohio Detailing]

When my Camaro was repainted years ago it was baked on, and baked between primer/sealer, base, and pearl, then finally clear. After all this I was still told to wait 30 days before waxing. Wash only with mild soap by hand and after 30 days I could use 3m hand glaze for 60 days before waxing.

Also, a spray booth is a lot cheaper then a down draft spray/bake booth. That’s why you can spend $500.00 to paint a car or 5K ++++

Ok so since I have a few free mins to kill on lunch I called DuPont just to run the question by the people who make the paint.
Per The person I spoke to.

Read the owners manual.

He said he was surprised that his said wait 6 months for Waxing. What they tell the body shops whether it’s a Bake booth or not is 120 days. He reason was even though the paint is dry and hard to the touch. It still can release solvents for some time. They only recommend that you can use a "fast wax" I clarified this as a quick detailer. His explanation as we know already was it’s not like a carnauba that will clog up the pours as he put it.
I asked him if this also applied to the paint protection they provide and he explained he could not answer that since that was made by a different division of DuPont.
Hope that helps, Let us know what the owner’s manual says.

Ahh ha! That is VERY enlightening. I will definitely read the owner's manual... I would even walk away from my desk right now and go grab it in the parking lot, but it's extremely hot already and I don't want to be sweaty for the next eight hours of my shift, ha!

I had no idea waxing was not advocated for up to SIX MONTHS! Well, as much as I've been beating myself up over the last five days since we bought the new Jeep for not having time to wax it, I'm relieved actually. If they only suggest using a fast wax (which I have done almost daily to remove fingerprints and also while drying after last night's first 2-bucket wash) I am sure a sealant would be horrible for the paint since it bonds!

I am getting the feeling I should of used the 'multi-quote' button... but these posts everyone has made are so helpful, I don't think that would give them justice.

 

[Ohio Detailing]

First off congratulations on your new car. I am in a similar position and about to pull the trigger on a new (new to me 1 year old) vehicle after driving the wheels off of my daily drive. I agree with some of the earlier posts. (clay the vehicle=you will be surprised of how much contamination will be on the paint. This is due in large part of the transport and storage of the vehicle to the dealership), check to see if the paint needs any correction at that point, and then seal with a quality sealant since it will be out 24/7 (you can always put a carnuba based wax over that if you want a warmer glow). BTW, that is a cool color and really sets off the vehicle. Best of luck with it.

Thanks a lot for such a nice and helpful post. I truly think a sealant topped with wax is the way to go. But... if I'm really bored, haha, and have the time to devote to it - would a sealant, glaze, wax be better at supplying a deeper wet look AND optimal protection?

Also, as far as the clay bar goes... although I have never noticed it scratching any of the vehicles I have detailed in the past, I have read some posts about people saying it can mare the paint; but won't proper kneading and lubrication avoid that? Could I use something like a spray detailer/quick wax (this is what I use exclusively at the moment: 2nd product down "Body Gloss" Ohio Auto Supply :: Shopping Cart - Waxes & Compounds)

Also, since the paint looks and feels pristine... and I bought it with 11 miles on it and have only owned it for five days - what type (softness) of clay should I buy for my specific circumstance? THANKS!!