The Key to Keeping OEM Wheels from -Blemishing-

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chefwong

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Just put on new summer shoes/powdercoated clear/etc. Finish I know is durable

As I was cleaning the stock wheels, with only 1900 miles on them and seeing a paint chip, it got me thinking on why the majority of the -current trend- of diamond cut faces look like shiii.
Yes, partially due to owner maintenance (either not cleaning them at all, or the combo of that and a strong wheel cleaner at the car wash to clean the neglected heavy brake dust wheel)

Anyhow, the faces of these wheels I suppose are just spayed cleared, as most OE wheels are not powdercoated but just painted...

So riddle me this. Apply wheel coatings *more often* to cover whatever chips/blemishes/pits in the clear to prevent the aluminum from oxidation is key.
When it oxidizes, it -creeps-. Once it creeps, it's more prevalent-easily shown on the diamond cut face since it's *clear* vs paint.
Am I off the wrong track here .
 
I think more often than not, the biggest issue with OEM machined faced wheels is proper adhesion of the clear to bare aluminum. Its just not as durable as a primer/base/clear painted wheel.

Then there are the sharp edges of the face from the diamond cutting usually on the outer edges of the spokes and the entrance of the lug holes. These areas have the thinnest paint. Any nicks from aggressive cleaning with a wheel brush or a lug nut socket from tire rotations or a stone chip(s) from daily driving compromises the integrity of that finish. It exposes the bare aluminum surface and introduces the beginning of the corrosion process. It eventually just eats away at those entrance points.

Wheel coatings, although durable as they may be, is still not fool proof. If the clear paint can be nicked to bare aluminum then you can bet a coating can as well. The finish is STILL compromised no matter what.

I think the only way to combat corrosion on a daily driven machined wheel is to be very anal about its condition and carefully inspect them weekly (after washing). Then address any new nicks with a dab of clear coat or other method to protect the exposed aluminum.

Can't say that I've gone that far on my OEM machined wheels on my Sierra truck though. :P
 
Looking for a nick/chip on the machined face is kinda hard if it's subtle no. Wheels are VERT. You might have to hold a light at it (like finishing drywall mudded seams) and look at the wheel at different angles to look for micro-chips. Hence, I was saying *coat* and *coat often* just to cover and mitigate corrosion
 
I've had terrible luck with diamond cut wheels. At some point in time, even with the greatest care, the clearcoat on those areas will chip and allow moisture to get underneath. From there, it starts to bubble/crack and the aluminum below will start to corrode. This has happened to me on a Subaru, 2x Toyotas, and a Jeep. I avoid them at all costs, but sadly it's the only type of wheel sold on our Acura. I'm holding my breath at this point.

I'm to the point where I try to be as gentle with diamond cut wheels as possible. I don't use wheel cleaners on them, won't polish them, and keep them as clean as I can to ensure there isn't anything environmental eating away at the clear coat. You can't stop a pebble strike from pitting and causing damage.
 
Desertnate said:
I've had terrible luck with diamond cut wheels. At some point in time, even with the greatest care, the clearcoat on those areas will chip and allow moisture to get underneath. From there, it starts to bubble/crack and the aluminum below will start to corrode. This has happened to me on a Subaru, 2x Toyotas, and a Jeep. I avoid them at all costs, but sadly it's the only type of wheel sold on our Acura. I'm holding my breath at this point.

I'm to the point where I try to be as gentle with diamond cut wheels as possible. I don't use wheel cleaners on them, won't polish them, and keep them as clean as I can to ensure there isn't anything environmental eating away at the clear coat. You can't stop a pebble strike from pitting and causing damage.
Click to expand...

Off topic or on. I've had many wheels done in PC.
For the new one, I wanted a change of pace so I actually ordered it in DC with PC relief. I wanted the shimmer (slight variations of color ways) you get with DC and I didn't really want brushed/milled barrels. The clear is PC. Here's hoping it -lasts-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6jrtlncq7b2ih1d/IMG_0929.jpg?dl=0
 
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