custmsprty
New member
- Apr 11, 2012
- 7,496
- 0
bump
The Role Silicone Plays in Car Care Products
- Thread starter Mike Phillips
- Start date
choijw2
New member
- Jul 25, 2015
- 781
- 0
This is very informative.
I also thought silicone as bad ingredient, but after I learned that HD speed have silicone (one of the most popular AIO out there)
and Griot's best show wax with new formula says "non-silicone" in bold, so I was confused if it was bad or not and found this article.
Thank you.
I also thought silicone as bad ingredient, but after I learned that HD speed have silicone (one of the most popular AIO out there)
and Griot's best show wax with new formula says "non-silicone" in bold, so I was confused if it was bad or not and found this article.
Thank you.
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
- 1,422
- 0
HD speed does have it? I guess. I see why it "corrects" so well....
choijw2
New member
- Jul 25, 2015
- 781
- 0
"If you like HD Adapt, try our HD SPEED. It works on the same idea and it works way better. The open working time is extremely long. Speed is an all in one with silicone and Montan wax. AAT is more of a flat out traditional style Compound only and Polish only process without silicone."
This is exact respond I received from 3D.
I would venture to say the correction in HD Speed comes from the proprietary blend of abrasives and pad combination. Based on the original article presented on page 1, the ease of use or ability to wipe away the wax residue would most likely be attributed to the "silicone".
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
Thanks for the Article Mike.
d, Ill,
In regards to Silicones, and while I'm no chemical engineer, would assume the many formulations of Silicones still may all base back to a similar molecular make-up.
I had mentioned this before here, and it was a personal discussion that I had once with a man by the name of Roland Christen. Roland and his wife Marj own Astro-Physics Telescopes in Rockford, Ill. He is known worldwide for making some of, if not the very best Amateur Optical Instruments bar none. The optical quality is comparable and on par to what companies like Carl Zeiss, and Leitz have done with comparable amateur sized instruments.
He once told me of the "evils" of Silicones around Optical Glasses such as Lenses, and also Mirrors. In that Silicones were virtually impossible to remove, that basically no Chemicals could remove such, short of re-grinding the Optics-Optical Sets.
With that said, and in regards to the auto industry, and waxes, sealants, and as well auto glass, I then wonder to what degree of success us end users have when first using paint prep products to "cleanse" our paints before applying certain products such as coatings, or as well products such as Water Repellant Products to exterior Glass?
And with that said also, the myriad of products that are manufactured that may surprise us that do indeed have Silicone as an ingredient?
Even regular Oils, as Lubricants, again, the difficulty of full removal, and again, and with even the strongest of solvents, does one actually fully remove such products from paints, glass, metals short of a blow torch?
Perhaps the microscopic nature of basically everything such as paints, glass, metals then would hinder full removal also?
Even the smoothest optical surfaces made by man have "roughness", though quite minute. As an example, a lens surface polished-figured to 1 wavelength of light. , To understand the smoothness of 1 wavelength of light on a lens (which is actually quite rough for a world class optic), take a 4" Diameter Refractor Lens, and enlarge that lens to the size of a football field, 100 yards Diameter. That 1 wavelength P-V (Point to Valley) error would be then enlarged to the thickness of a Matchstick.
Roland's Lenses and their smoothness are all tested and certified to minimum 1/10 Wave P-V
d, Ill,
In regards to Silicones, and while I'm no chemical engineer, would assume the many formulations of Silicones still may all base back to a similar molecular make-up.
I had mentioned this before here, and it was a personal discussion that I had once with a man by the name of Roland Christen. Roland and his wife Marj own Astro-Physics Telescopes in Rockford, Ill. He is known worldwide for making some of, if not the very best Amateur Optical Instruments bar none. The optical quality is comparable and on par to what companies like Carl Zeiss, and Leitz have done with comparable amateur sized instruments.
He once told me of the "evils" of Silicones around Optical Glasses such as Lenses, and also Mirrors. In that Silicones were virtually impossible to remove, that basically no Chemicals could remove such, short of re-grinding the Optics-Optical Sets.
With that said, and in regards to the auto industry, and waxes, sealants, and as well auto glass, I then wonder to what degree of success us end users have when first using paint prep products to "cleanse" our paints before applying certain products such as coatings, or as well products such as Water Repellant Products to exterior Glass?
And with that said also, the myriad of products that are manufactured that may surprise us that do indeed have Silicone as an ingredient?
Even regular Oils, as Lubricants, again, the difficulty of full removal, and again, and with even the strongest of solvents, does one actually fully remove such products from paints, glass, metals short of a blow torch?
Perhaps the microscopic nature of basically everything such as paints, glass, metals then would hinder full removal also?
Even the smoothest optical surfaces made by man have "roughness", though quite minute. As an example, a lens surface polished-figured to 1 wavelength of light. , To understand the smoothness of 1 wavelength of light on a lens (which is actually quite rough for a world class optic), take a 4" Diameter Refractor Lens, and enlarge that lens to the size of a football field, 100 yards Diameter. That 1 wavelength P-V (Point to Valley) error would be then enlarged to the thickness of a Matchstick.
Roland's Lenses and their smoothness are all tested and certified to minimum 1/10 Wave P-V
mwemaxxowner
Member
- Apr 30, 2016
- 126
- 0
My question is not in regards to paint at all, but rather interior surfaces. And specifically regarding armor all. I have read many times over that the use of armor all will dry out interior surfaces.
And I have an 87 f250 with a few interior spots that are dry and whitish and it has always been armor alled during interior cleaning.
Is this just sun damage and not related? Or is there something in armor all that can be damaging over time? Silicone or otherwise.
And I have an 87 f250 with a few interior spots that are dry and whitish and it has always been armor alled during interior cleaning.
Is this just sun damage and not related? Or is there something in armor all that can be damaging over time? Silicone or otherwise.
mwemaxxowner
Member
- Apr 30, 2016
- 126
- 0
So is the general consensus that armor all is harmless on the interior?
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
I'll share a little true story of what once happened to me 26 years ago.
I had just taken delivery of a brand new 1990 Dodge/Cummins 3/4 ton 4x4 in Colorado red, with Red Interior, it was exactly 1 month old, and yep, thought I was doing a great thing by wiping down all my interior Door Panels and Dashboard with Armor All to protect them, and make them look pretty. (Keep in mind that back then, there was not the availability of the myriad of better products that are available today)
And yep, two days later the "paint" was literally falling off my dashboard! It truly was a heartbreaking moment, and that as I ran my fingernail over those spots, it was coming off so easily, I could've literally removed all the paint in such a manner. Was horrible, just couldn't believe it!
Well, I of course immediately contacted my dealer, was instructed to take it over to their paint and trim shop, and that's when they told me the only options was A, to remove the entire Dashboard, either replace it, or B, re-spray the original, and then replace it. I knew right then and there, that the dealer would most likely turn my brand new $22K truck into a lemon disaster, that there would be a host of problems as long as my arm after such would be done. Fit, finish, rattles, ventilation problems, lighting gauges, the works.
I've never ever heard of something so crazy, a "Painted Dashboard"? And the Paint just flaking off from using Armor All?
I remembered a auto paint supply shop in Chicago's western suburbs at the time called Ketone, and paid them a visit. Yep, they could mix up the paint, and place those paints into Aerosol Spray Cans. I ordered 4 cans at I believe $10 a can, a Large Bottle of Prep-Solv Solvent, mucho rolls of masking tape, a few large packages of coarse Scotchbrite Pads, and a few Tack Cloths.
I basically stripped the entire Dashboard as far as I could go, all vents were removed, gauge clusters, glove box lid (which was not effected), I spent an entire day, with all the work of removal of parts, masking off the entire interior with tape-newspaper, which included inner windshield, inner doors, steering wheel-steering columm, headliner, seats and floor were covered with cheap blankets to protect from overspray, etc
I removed all the loose paint I possibly could, vacuumed, continued on until I was satisfied with prep, and the use of the prep solvent as I went, exacting detail paid to masking, and that nothing was missed.
The paint application went perfect, but here was the snafu. The Paint was laquer, and the finish was as dull as dull could be. As one could imagine, it no doubt needed a follow-up with clear laquer, but then what? Laquers usually need to be sanded, buffed, and how would one do that with a Dashboard?!
With some long thinking-contemplation of what to do, a light went on, and had to take a gamble. I needed something to bring nice gloss, but of course not a darn Armor Product again, and be right back in the same boat.
What did I use? You'd all probably never guess! Future Floor Wax! And it worked perfectly, and in fact, the Dashboard looked so darn nice after, that many would compliment me on how great my interior and the Dashboard looked! And it truly did come out fantastic!
I never had problems again with that Dashboard, and it's finish, and upkeep was as simple as a simple wipe with a damp cloth. Downside, was yes, a very high degree of light reflection at certain times of the day, but nothing a good pair of Polarized Sunglasses didn't take care of!
I kept that vehicle another 4-1/2 years with no further problems.I reckon the moral of the story is, spend the little extra money on good modern day products, such as is sold here on the Geek that are better suited for such applications.
Since that fateful day of destroying a Dashboard, I never used Armor All again on any vehicles.
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
Of course way back in the day, the older vintage cars-trucks had painted Dashboards. But with good durable paint, the exact same paint used on the exterior. My father's 1956 Chevy Bel Air comes to mind as one example.
Although there's fans, and detractors of the Armor All Product, my little nightmare I told of above I suspect was more of a cheap God knows what makeshift manufacturing process that Dodge did back then on their vehicles, that they were more largely to blame and at fault than Armor All.
Although there's fans, and detractors of the Armor All Product, my little nightmare I told of above I suspect was more of a cheap God knows what makeshift manufacturing process that Dodge did back then on their vehicles, that they were more largely to blame and at fault than Armor All.
mwemaxxowner
Member
- Apr 30, 2016
- 126
- 0
I think I'm just going to use it and report back in 5 years. This is giving me a headache. Lol
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Any update? LOL j/k.
I was curious about this being I read that Tec582 contains a good bit of silicone. I didn't check their SDS though to confirm.