The Wolfgang Four

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The Wolfgang Four


Here are four products that will take care of about 99.9% of any exterior paint correction product you'll ever have in your garage.


The Wolfgang Four

Forum member RFulmer coined this term, (due credit where credit is due), and since there's been a lot of questions about what each product is, what they do, the order of aggressiveness and when you use one over the other, here's some info...





Uber Compound

• Aggressive Compound - More aggressive than Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.
• For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
• Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
• Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
• Cafe for all clear coat paints.
• Safe for all single stage paints.
• For some people on some cars it can be used as a compound/polish after which the paint can be sealed with a wax or synthetic paint sealant.

Total Swirl Remover

• Medium Cut Polish - Less aggressive than Uber Compound and more aggressive than Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.
• For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
• Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
• Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
• Cafe for all clear coat paints.
• Safe for all single stage paints.
• Should be tested before using Uber Compound to see if it will remove defects to our satisfaction in keeping with the practice of using the least aggressive product to get the job done.

Finishing Glaze

• Fine Cut Polish - Much less aggressive than Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and of course dramatically less aggressive than Wolfgang Uber Compound.
• For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
• Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
• Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
• Cafe for all clear coat paints.
• Safe for all single stage paints.
• Should be tested before using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover to see if it will remove defects to our satisfaction in keeping with the practice of using the least aggressive product to get the job done.
• Great "Maintenance Polish" for use removing shallow swirls that show up over time from normal wear-n-tear on daily drivers and after a person has already performed a multi-step procedure to remove serious paint defects.

Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

• German engineered synthetic paint sealant.
• Non-cleaning, pure synthetic - Paint must be in excellent condition as in brand new or previously polished to like new condition before use.
• Can be applied by hand or any type of dual action polisher wit foam pads.
• This product "seals" the paint in the say way a car wax or paint coating will seal the paint. It is water insoluble and as such like all synthetic paint sealants, car waxes and paint coatings is not body shop safe.
• Requires 30 to 45 minutes of drying time before removal.
• Oxygen activated. After buffing off the excess sealant the remaining protection ingredients should be allowed to cure and fully set-up for an approximate 12 hour window of time before the vehicle is put back into service where it will be exposed to water.

Synergistic Chemical Compatibility
Each product is chemically compatible and chemically beneficial when used as a system approach to take a diamond in the rough and turn it into a glistening gemstone. Using the entire line in the correct order or just a few of the product in the correct order is an example of working forward in the paint polishing process.


All Inclusive System-Approach
This group of four products with just about any tool, any pad and even by hand will produce not only show car results but do it consistently across a VERY wide spectrum of paint systems including,

• Hard paints, soft paints and everything in-between.
• Factory OEM paints and aftermarket repaints at your local body shop or custom paint shop.
• Single stage and basecoat clearcoat.

Which products do you need?
Which product you'll need depend upon the condition of the paint on the car. Click to my list of paint condition categories and read through the descriptions for the different categories. Then after washing and drying your car, inspect the paint both with your sense of touch, (The Baggie Test), and visually with your eyes in bright light for swirls and scratches.

Then determine which category your car's paint fall into. Here are some general guidelines but the best way to determine which exact product you'll need to remove the defects and restore the finish on your car to your expectations can only be determined by doing a Test Spot


How To Do a Test Spot


Test Spot results showing the before and after difference...

On Autogeek.net

Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0

Total Swirl Remover

Finishing Glaze

Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0


And if you don't have a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads get them...

5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Paint Condition Categories


Using the guide below, inspect the paint on your car or cars, trucks, SUVs, etc. And then post which category you think each vehicle matches.


1: Show Car Quality
Paint in this condition is as perfect as it can be in any lighting condition. The only defects you should see are fingerprints, smudges or light dust on what otherwise appears to be a flawless show car finish.

The finish on a car in this category can hold up to close scrutiny under bright lights by the most discerning eyes.

The paint in this category has been put through a series of machine polishing procedures to maximize D.O.I, gloss, clarity, depth, reflection, richness of color, shine and even slickness.

If needed, the paint has been sanded, cut and buffed to remove orange peel and any other surface texture to create a 100% flat surface to maximize D.O.I.

RIDS have been removed to the extent that it is safe to do so without compromising the top coat. Paint is meticulously cared for on an as needed basis to ensure that it is always display ready.


Show Car Quality

2: Excellent Condition
The paint in this category looks factory new or better than factory new.

The paint looks like it has been professionally machine polished and sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating and is regularly maintained.

When viewed in bright sunlight, the paint looks excellent, that is there are few or no visible swirls or scratches or so few that there's not enough of them to require machine polishing.

The paint has few or no swirls, scratches or any other visible paint defects outside of RIDS.



3: Good Condition
Light swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation.

When viewed in bright sunlight, the paint should look pretty good overall except that it has light or shallow looking cobweb swirls and scratches throughout the paint. Any water spot problems should be shallow imprint type stains common to Type I Water Spots, certainly not deep craters like Type II or Type III where the paint is physically stained.

Paint in this condition would require one or two polishing steps before a finishing wax could be applied to bring the quality to Excellent or Show Car Quality.



4: Mildly Neglected
Normal day-in, day-out wear-n-tear and minimal appearance maintenance outside of the occasional car wash. Paint in this condition has medium to light swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation.

Cobweb Swirls and Scratches
When viewed in bright, overhead sunlight there are cobweb swirls and scratches evenly instilled throughout the entire finish but they're likely instilled through improper washing and drying techniques, which means the depth of these defects won't be as deep as the swirls and scratches in a severely neglected finish. The swirls are not inflicted by a rotary buffer. The remedy is still the same except you might be able to use a less aggressive pad or product.

Water Spots
Paint with Type I Water Spots or shallow Type II Water Spots that are more imprints than they are craters falls into this category.

Oxidation, Staining and Surface Impurities
If the car being evaluated is a daily driver, is parked outside 24/7 and has not been regularly polished and/or waxed for a few years then chances are good it has light oxidation and staining of the paint with some type of roadgrime or a build-up of impurities or some type of topical contamination that does not wash or wipe-off.
​

5: Severely Neglected
Paint in this condition has deep swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation. Paint in this condition has normal day-in, day-out wear-n-tear plus no real regular maintenance. Vehicles in this category are rarely washed on a regular basis and when they are washed they are washed improperly or taken through automatic car wash.

Cobweb Swirls and Scratches
Paint that is severely neglected means that when viewed in bright, overhead sunlight, there are so many swirls and scratches that the paint has an overall hazy appearance which blocks your view of the true color.


Water Spots
Paint that is in the severely neglected category can have Type I, Type II and Type III water spots on all horizontal panels and even the vertical panels if caused by a sprinkler or some type of water spray.


Severe Oxidation
Paint in this category has oxidized to the point where the surface has a uniform dull appearance to the horizontal surfaces and to some extent the vertical panels. Clear coats do oxidize but usually slower than single stage paints and don't normally get the whitish, chalky appearance with a rough texture common to old, neglected single stage lacquers and enamels.
​

6: Horrendous Swirls - Caused by the misuse of a rotary buffer
This category is primarily for cars that have been improperly buffed-out using a rotary buffer leaving the finish inflicted with rotary buffer swirls, holograms or buffer trails.
(Whatever term you like, they all mean the same thing).


The severity of the swirls can range from shallow to deep depending upon the pad and product used with the rotary buffer as well as technique or lack thereof.

The normal three culprits for paint in this condition are,

Dealer Installed Swirl Option
Bodyshop Installed Swirl Option
Detailer Installed Swirl Option
​

Sad but true, the people in this industry that are supposed to know how to properly buff out a car normally either don't know or don't care. The results are the same and that's a swirled out car finish that someone else will have to undo.



7: Extreme Oxidation
Paint is this category is primarily associated with traditional single stage lacquer and enamel paints and normally found cars built before 1980. Extreme Oxidation means the paint has deteriorated to the point that it has a chalky, whitish appearance.

Paint in this category is typically antique or original. It can be a re-paint, but it would be an older re-repaint. Paint with extreme oxidation can be saved by carefully removing the dead, oxidized paint and rejuvenating with polishing oils the remaining paint. After polishing the color is restored and remains even when exposed to sunlight. If the color fades away then this is an indicator that the paint has become unstable.



8: Extreme Orange Peel
Paint in this category is primarily re-paints from body shops, dealerships or do-it-yourselfer garage paint jobs. It doesn't normally include factory orange peel because factory orange peel is a given for new cars and truck and due to how thin the top coat is on a factory paint job there's a certain amount of risk you have to accept if you choose to remove the factory orange peel while re-paints will tend to have enough material that the problem can be safely corrected via sanding and buffing.



9: Unstable
This category is for older, single stage paints that have been exposed to the sun for a long enough period of time that the pigments have become unstable. That is even if you remove the oxidation and gorge the paint with some type of polishing oils, any original color that is restored is only a temporary fix and when the paint is exposed to the sun or after a few days pass the color fades back to where it was before you started.



10: Beginning Clear Coat Failure
This is when the clear layer is just starting to fail or deteriorate. On a darker colored car, the clear layer starts to have a cloudy or opaque look, which is a sign the clear coat is on its way to de-laminating and flaking off. There is nothing you can do at this point to stop the deterioration. The est thing you can do is keep the car out of the sun as much as possible. Avoid using any abrasive compounds or medium cut polishes. Wash with a non-detergent soap and keep the horizontal surfaces coated with a high UV protection wax like Optimum Polymer Technologies Car Wax.



11: Beginning Clear Coat Failure
Clear coat failure is the point in which the top clear layer of paint has either de-laminated from the basecoat and is peeling off. Clear coat failure can also be when the clear layer of paint has deteriorated to the point where it's turning a whitish color in the beginning stages to full blown deterioration where it has turned white and is flaking off and the car look like it has a severe rash.



12: Past the point of no return
Paint in this condition will be a paint job that falls into one of the above categories but it is so far gone that nothing you pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can from any company will fix it.




Using this guide
Every car you inspect and evaluate will fall into one of the above categories of paint condition. In order to reach your goal you first must know where you're starting from, so wash and dry your car and then inspect the paint visually using at least two good sources of bright light and tactilely with your sense of touch using your clean hand.


Visual Inspection
Using the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light to Inspect your car's finish

Tactile Inspection - Using your sense of touch
The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants

How to use the Sun to inspect paint
One of the best ways to inspect your car's finish for swirls is to use bright, overhead sunlight. Of course this means you need to have a sunny day and usually a time of year like spring or summer when the sun is high overhead around noon time.

Move your car out into the open, away from things like tall trees and buildings that cast a shadow and then stand on the side of the car that allows you to see the sun reflecting off a body panel like the hood, trunk lid or vertical panel.

The sun will easily show you if there are in fact any swirls or scratches in your car's finish.

The sun shining down your car car should look like these examples.


Swirls on the hood of a 1967 Firebird

B-Pillar - Vertical Panel between back window and back side window

Swirls on the door of a 1954 F100 Pickup

Swirls on the driver's side fender of a 1939 Lincoln Zephyr

Video Examples
Here's some video examples of how to inspect your paint using the sun after you have washed and dried your car.

:xyxthumbs:

 

[RFulmer]

And I thought the Wolfgang Four was my baby lol.

Great info here.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Real World Examples


1: Show Car Quality

1970 440 Cuda - Part 2 - Show Car Prep

Big Daddy Don Garlits awarding Tommy the owner First Place Trophy
November 3rd, 2013

2: Excellent Condition
The paint in this category looks factory new or better than factory new.

2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures

Here's the Mercedes-Benz after washing, rinsing and drying. The paint needed light claying but there were little to no swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation in the paint on this car before we buffed it out.

3: Good Condition
Light swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation.

Pictures & Videos: 2006 Mustang by Ford - Show Car Shine by Autogeek!


Here's Brandon's Mustang as it arrived at Autogeek's Corporate offices...

Was able to get one sun shot showing swirls before the clouds moved in...

Moved the car into Autogeek Show Car Garage Studio and took this shot with my camera...

4: Mildly Neglected
Normal day-in, day-out wear-n-tear and minimal appearance maintenance outside of the occasional car wash. Paint in this condition has medium to light swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation.

1970 Mustang Mach 1 Detailing Clinic at AutogeekOnline.net



Here's Don's Mustang, looks pretty good to the average person...

When you know how to truly inspect the finish on a Special Interest Car then you know there's a little room for improvement and if you think this car looks good in the above pictures wait till we warm it over by MACHINE! :buffing:

This is a full size section cropped out of the original above, no resizing.

Oxidized Single Stage Paint
The below is a reflection shot of the overhead florescent tube lights, what I want you to see is the dull, opaque look the paint has at the bottom of the reflection of the lights. This is light oxidation and even though the car looks beautiful in the pictures above, in person the paint has a dull sheen to it caused by oxidation. This is a single stage paint by the way.

Paint restored to #1 Show Car Quality

5: Severely Neglected
Paint in this condition has deep swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation. Paint in this condition has normal day-in, day-out wear-n-tear plus no real regular maintenance. Vehicles in this category are rarely washed on a regular basis and when they are washed they are washed improperly or taken through automatic car wash.




6: Horrendous Swirls - Caused by the misuse of a rotary buffer
This category is primarily for cars that have been improperly buffed-out using a rotary buffer leaving the finish inflicted with rotary buffer swirls, holograms or buffer trails.
(Whatever term you like, they all mean the same thing).

1987 Chevy 4x4 Monster Truck "Before & After" Pictures


Here's what the paint looks like when the sun hits it...

Holograms from the mis-use of a rotary buffer...

After paint restoration...

7: Extreme Oxidation
Paint is this category is primarily associated with traditional single stage lacquer and enamel paints and normally found cars built before 1980. Extreme Oxidation means the paint has deteriorated to the point that it has a chalky, whitish appearance.

1960 Ford Ranchero - Extreme Makeover - M105/M205 Tag Team

After

8: Extreme Orange Peel
Paint in this category is primarily re-paints from body shops, dealerships or do-it-yourselfer garage paint jobs. It doesn't normally include factory orange peel because factory orange peel is a given for new cars and truck and due to how thin the top coat is on a factory paint job there's a certain amount of risk you have to accept if you choose to remove the factory orange peel while re-paints will tend to have enough material that the problem can be safely corrected via sanding and buffing.


Pictures: 1928 Model A - Wetsand, Cut and Buff at Autogeek


This Model A arrived with a BRAND NEW PAINT JOB but with a LOT of ORANGE PEEL. So we removed the orange peel by machine wetsanding followed by removing the sanding marks using a rotary buffer and then machine waxing.


3M Flexible Abrasive Hookit Sheets
These new flexible Hookit sheets us an anti-loading technology to help prevent the face of the paper from loading up with paint as fast and as easily as traditional wet/dry sandpaper.

I sanded this section with about 10 back and forth passes and found the #1500 to cut incredibly fast.

Here you can see the orange peel being removed as you look towards the bottom of the picture the orange peel is being removed leaving behind a very flat surface that after compounding and polishing will produce a smooth, high gloss finish with excellent Distinction of Image or DOI.

Removing Sanding Marks

"It's easy to sand paint... that's putting scratches into the paint. The tricky part is getting them 100% out"


This morning I wanted to test out what it was going to take to remove the sanding marks to get an idea as to how hard the paint is. Normally I would finish out at #3000 or #5000 grit sanding marks to make the compounding step cooler, faster, easier and safer.

Instead, I threw caution to the wind and just tried removing the #1500 grit sanding marks and to do this I used the Rupes Bigfoot 21 Polisher with the Rupes Zephir Gloss Coarse Gel Compound and Blue Foam Cutting Pad followed by the Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish and the Rupes matching Yellow Foam Polishing pad. I followed this with a quick application of Pinnacle XMT 180 Paste Wax machine applied using a Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher with a Rupes 4" polishing pad.


This was just a test to a small section as I'm saving this car for this weekends detailing boot camp class. The Rupes Bigfoot 21 along with their compound and foam cutting pad remove 100% of the sanding marks after just a few passes.



This first pictures will frame up the shot so you can see I worked in the same place I hand sanded...

Now I've zoomed in and you can see the orange peel on the right side where I did not sand and how the paint starts to flatten out as you look to the right side of the picture.

Below are some shots taken using different camera settings including one group of shots with the flash on.


Orange Peel

No Orange Peel but also no sanding marks and no holograms or haze...

Orange Peel Removed and a Hologram-Free Finish created...

1928 Model A in FULL SUN

In this "walk-around" video I document in FULL SUN that there are zero holograms and a 100% swirl free finish on both the 1928 Model A and the 1986 Porsche I buffed out with some new tools and products.

9: Unstable
This category is for older, single stage paints that have been exposed to the sun for a long enough period of time that the pigments have become unstable. That is even if you remove the oxidation and gorge the paint with some type of polishing oils, any original color that is restored is only a temporary fix and when the paint is exposed to the sun or after a few days pass the color fades back to where it was before you started.


Single Stage Paint just keeps coming...

Looks good in this shot...

However, after moving this 1940 Packard into our studio under good light and then doing some compounding, polishing, saturation with Meguiar's #7 and even waxing, nothing would reverse the whitish or opaqueness in the horizontal panels.


Unstable and Past the Point of No Return
After I machine polished and then rubbed the paint down with multiple applications of Meguiar's #7 the whiteness in the paint could not be removed. This is a sign the pigments are so old and overexposed to the sun that they have become unstable.

10: Beginning Clear Coat Failure
This is when the clear layer is just starting to fail or deteriorate. On a darker colored car, the clear layer starts to have a cloudy or opaque look, which is a sign the clear coat is on its way to de-laminating and flaking off. There is nothing you can do at this point to stop the deterioration. The est thing you can do is keep the car out of the sun as much as possible. Avoid using any abrasive compounds or medium cut polishes. Wash with a non-detergent soap and keep the horizontal surfaces coated with a high UV protection wax like Optimum Polymer Technologies Car Wax.



Beginning Clearcoat Failure

Here is the best example I've been able to find that shows beginning clear coat failure, it's from a thread I created on MeguiarsOnline called the The Clearcoat Failure Photo Archive


Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline

Since I have not been able to find a similar car with the beginning of clear coat failure to photograph for the AG forum, and because this is a very useful picture for helping people diagnose what type of problem they're having with their car's clear coat I've added to the Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive here on AG but have given proper credit to where I obtained the photograph.

Due credit where due credit is due.... which more people would do this...




11: Clear Coat Failure
Clear coat failure is the point in which the top clear layer of paint has either de-laminated from the basecoat and is peeling off. Clear coat failure can also be when the clear layer of paint has deteriorated to the point where it's turning a whitish color in the beginning stages to full blown deterioration where it has turned white and is flaking off and the car look like it has a severe rash.

The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive

12: Past the point of no return
Paint in this condition will be a paint job that falls into one of the above categories but it is so far gone that nothing you pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can from any company will fix it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

And I thought the Wolfgang Four was my baby lol.

Great info here.

My bad...

A rare case of typing faster than I can think. If you look at the first post now and its citation to you it's also a clickable link to your post showing your use of the term.

Thanks for pointing this out...



:xyxthumbs:

 

[Scott@IncrediblyDetailed]

Awesome Mike! I have a lot of reading to do later.

 

[Desertnate]

How flexible is the Finishing Glaze? What I mean by that is the type of results posible by changing up pads, i.e. a finishing polish vs a polishing pad.

I've got a new black VW. By the time winter is over I'm sure I'll have some light marks from the waterless washes, snow removal, and general abuse that comes from being driven through snowy/salty/nasty mid-west USA winter. There were only a few light swirls from the factory. The dealer did not prep it at my request. On you're rating scale I think I'd call it a Good+ or an Excellent-. Is this the type of maintenance work Finishing Glaze was designed to handle? Would pad selection keep me from having to go to the more agressive Swirl Remover?

I've been using UP, but with this car I'd like to step up to a different product and see if I can get even better results. The Swirl Remover/Finishing Glaze combo has caught my attention based on reviews, but I'd like to get a better idea of which product will suit my needs. I'll get both if needed, but if Finishing Glaze will do it all for me, I could save a little money!

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Thanks for the article Mike.

Having Fuzion on hand is an incredible topper to finish it off.

 

[JKL1031]

Yea I'm curious to know if Im under using the finishing glaze. After swirl remover I use the finishing glaze with a blue pad, applying it as a wax with at most 3 section passes. I have my upper rear quarter panels left and I'm going to take a wht pad with the FG to it first and treat it as a cut instead of a polish/wax before trying the SR since this is a highly sun beamed area. Maybe I can share my results.

This chart is all u really got http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-Helme/polish-chart.jpg

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

How flexible is the Finishing Glaze? What I mean by that is the type of results possible by changing up pads, i.e. a finishing polish vs a polishing pad.

Flexible to a degree. I get more or less cut you could do as you suggest, use,

Foam Polishing Pad for more cut or correction.
Foam Finishing Pad for very light cut or correction
Use Foam Waxing or Jewelling pad for VERY light polishing work.

I've successfully used all 4 approaches for various projects.

I've got a new black VW. By the time winter is over I'm sure I'll have some light marks from the waterless washes, snow removal, and general abuse that comes from being driven through snowy/salty/nasty mid-west USA winter. There were only a few light swirls from the factory. The dealer did not prep it at my request.

On you're rating scale I think I'd call it a Good+ or an Excellent-. Is this the type of maintenance work Finishing Glaze was designed to handle?

Would pad selection keep me from having to go to the more aggressive Swirl Remover?

Darn good questions, especially the last one that I bolded...

I'd say that your results will depend upon the paint itself, how hard or soft it is, to some degree the technique being used but overall I'd say "yes".

The only way to find out though is to do some testing.

I've been using UP, but with this car I'd like to step up to a different product and see if I can get even better results. The Swirl Remover/Finishing Glaze combo has caught my attention based on reviews, but I'd like to get a better idea of which product will suit my needs.

I'll get both if needed, but if Finishing Glaze will do it all for me, I could save a little money!

I'd say it's definitely worth getting just the Finishing Glaze to test.

We used only the Finishing Glaze on Stacy's SLK350 because the paint was really in great shape. Mostly we wanted to perfect it in order to really amp up the gloss and clarity. That's the write-up and Mercedes-Benz in the #2 category above.

 

[mbkite]

Ok I have everything but the uber compound but my question is what rupes 15 or 21 will give me the mirror like finish..

 

[Desertnate]

Thanks, Mike!

I had read the thread on the Mercedes, but forgotten you used the Wolfgang products. That was very helpful.

I've got an order coming up, I'll just go ahead and get samples of both. Based on the work done to the Mercedes, Finishing Glaze should do it for me, but I'd rather be prepared rather than stuck and not able to finish the job the way I want it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Ok I have everything but the uber compound but my question is what rupes 15 or 21 will give me the mirror like finish..

Either or...

Something that was absolutely mind blowing at SEMA was demonstrating the Rupes Duetto with the Rupes COARSE blue foam cutting pad on a BLACK demonstration panel with the Wolfgang Uber Compound and after,

• Sanding the panel
• Making about 6-8 passes with the Rupes/Uber Compound
• Then wiping off...

The paint was flawless and looked like we just removed a show car wax.


Did this over and over and over and over again for 4 day in a row, thousands of eyeballs watching under incredibly bright lights.

Here's a picture...

Anyone watching we would first have them FEEL a clean, blue Rupes foam cutting pad.

They would always say,

WOW!

Because it feels so aggressive and scratchy. Then do the demo, wipe off the reside and voilà show car finish.


Can I get a witness? We had plenty of forum members stop by the booth and watch the demo.

 

[jankerson]

11: Clear Coat Failure
Clear coat failure is the point in which the top clear layer of paint has either de-laminated from the basecoat and is peeling off. Clear coat failure can also be when the clear layer of paint has deteriorated to the point where it's turning a whitish color in the beginning stages to full blown deterioration where it has turned white and is flaking off and the car look like it has a severe rash.

The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive

See tons of this around....

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Also remember, this car was buffed out BEFORE the new Rupes Polishers were introduced.

Lady in Red - 1986 Porsche - 4-Step Process



For the "Heavy Correction Step" I used the Duetto with a foam polishing pad and Uber Compound.

Before

Results from Wolfgang Uber Compound

I took these shots after compounding with Uber Compound and BEFORE machine polishing with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. To me the paint looked ready to wax...

I didn't show the below pictures per instructions from Rupes till AFTER the new Duetto was announced at SEMA...


Here's the polisher I referenced in the beginning of this thread but never actually stated what it was because at the time it was one of the 4 prototypes Rupes sent out in April of 2012 for testing and feedback.

It was also coated with Black Label Diamond Paint Coating before it was introduced...

Here's the product in the bottle in the pictures above with no label...


Black Diamond Paint Coating

Read about it here,


Review: Black Label Diamond Paint Coating



After the coating was applied and the final wipe...

Here's the walk-around video showing the paint in FULL SUN

:xyxthumbs:

 

[jankerson]

Great thread Mike. :xyxthumbs:

Think you forgot one though...

Should be the Wolfgang 5...

WGUC, WGTSR, WGFG, WGDGPS, and WG Fuzion. :dblthumb2:

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Can I get a witness? We had plenty of forum members stop by the booth and watch the demo.

Didn't see it this year but saw it last year.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great thread Mike. :xyxthumbs:

Think you forgot one though...

Should be the Wolfgang 5...

WGUC, WGTSR, WGFG, WGDGPS, and WG Fuzion. :dblthumb2:

Yeah, I actually use Fuzion over DGPS but the idea for this was to keep it simple, four liquids...


The Wolfgang Four

For anyone that's a paste wax fan...


Wolfgang Füzion is also super easy to apply by hand...

Or machine applied...

 

[HateSwirls]

IMO the Uber Compound will go down in history as the best compound ever produced.
PERIOD!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online

 

[silverfox]

Mike first suggested to me a few years ago when I was getting my feet wet in DA machine polishing to start out with the WG twins, and boy...they always produce show car results EVERY TIME on EVERY PAINT I've used them on.

I cannot say that about any other brand I've tried...with the exception of Pinnacle...which frankly I think may be a tad better, although the new Uber compound raised the bar a lot for WG.

I think frankly when it comes to polishes (and I do love the DG and Megs lines as well for DDs)...that you do get what you pay for. Just my two cents.