Thinking About Upgrading to a Full Size V8 from the Astro/Need Opin

ShineTimeDetail

ShineTimeDetail

New member
Joined
Sep 26, 2010
Messages
2,032
Reaction score
0
So I pull a lot with my van, enclosed 4x6(Looking to upgrade to a possible 5x10) 100 gallon water tank, 5k Gen, 4500 PSI Pressure washer, 33 gal Air compressor, 10x15 canopy, 4 cinder blocks, around 100 Micro Fibers(Those right there is most of my weight:xyxthumbs:) a 72 Gallon container full of products, my steam cleaner, hopefully I'll have my new mytee hp60 tomrrow, me and a co worker sometimes! So when I have the ac on(I like the ac!) a lot of times I have to shut the ac off while going up a hill, she just won't take it.

So I figure I get around 15 MPG loaded down with maybe a half tank of water(50 Gal)
If I got a full size with a V8 could I still pull 15 out of it? I just figure it would make sense cause it wouldn't be putting stress on the motor as much going up hill. Up hill is the only time it struggles.

What do you think?
 
A full size van? Loaded down like that I would have to say you're not going to get 15mpg from it.
 
I have a 14' trailer with large generator, pressure washer, 225gal tank, 20gal compressor, other tools and cleaners. I pull it with an F150 5.4 v8. I get giddy like a school girl if I can get 11mpg
 
So do you think my van could handle a 5x10? This wouldn't be a heavy duty trailer. It would be a 3k axle weight, I have a 4x6 heavy duty now
 
Find yourself a nice one ton diesel van. You can find both Fords and GM's at a good price. Shoot I have even looked at the Dodge Sprinter with the Merc. diesel in them.

I have a 1998 GMC Savanna diesel and it gets 14MPG loaded down or empty.
 
I'm considering a diesel but I know when something goes wrong on a diesel it cost!!

My van I believe is rated at 5600 lbs or so. The deal is it can't stop 5600 lbs! All the trailers I keep seeing are rated at 2990 axle weight because 3000 axle weight requires brakes- I plan on installing brakes on the next trailer I get!
 
If you want that kind of mileage out of towing you will need a diesel. Gives you a lot more options for towing, mileage, durability, etc.

It will depend on what diesel you get on how much repair costs will be.The older Cummins (early 98 and back) are mostly mechanical and very few electronics. The GM 6.5 is the same way. Most diesels are very reliable and keeping on with maintenance just like a gas vehicle is always important.
Good luck with your choice.
 
Aren't you compromising the money your saving on gas with the money your loosing on oil changes? Plus when things break on diesels its expensive.
 
I do my own oil changes using a Cummins or Dodge filter and Rotella T 15w-40. Takes 12 quarts and I change it every 7500 miles or 6 months.
The oil is usually around $15.00 to $17.00 a gal at Wal Mart. So usually around $60.00 total for the oil change.

Yeah it is a little more expensive for an oil change but you don't have to worry about being ubnderpowered and the brakes are better suited for stopping those loads.

The diesel engine are very reliable. Yes, the items on a diesel, when they break are more expensive, but not many mechanical things break in/on the engine.

In my experince, gas engine break more than diesels. Plus, most diesels don't need a rebuild until the 400,000 to 500,000 range.
Let me know if I can be of help in any other way.
 
Well there's a guy selling a 3500 Chevy van for around 2k. 160k miles. Claims it runs with no problems. I may check it out. Has a tow package too.
 
Gas or diesel? Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against a gas truck/van. A good gas vehicle, correctly setup, including the trailer brakes as you mentioned previously will work. Just make sure the vehicle carries more weight than the trailer. You don't want all that extra weight pushing you from behind.

If you do find a vehicle that you would be interested in buying, ask around and find a good mechanic, if you do not have one. Have an inspection done and spend the $100 or so just to make sure things are the way they should be. I have seen so many people get taken and buty a vehicle that needed more repairs than what is was worth.

Also, ask the owner for maintenance records, or any type of paper work. Anything to help the tech with the inspection.
 
It's a diesel

I also have a buddy selling a 2000 chevy 3500 with a 350. New ball joins tie rods new michelin E rated tires runs really good with 210K He wants around 3500.
 
Towing capacity on the gas starts at 5500 and goes up from there, depending all types of criteria (i.e. wheelbase, curb weight, tires, gearratio, etc.)

Just off of the top of my head, I figure you are around 2000 lbs. just in fluids. Add in all of the hardware and all those microfibers, and you could be in the ball park of 3500 to 4000. If you really want to know, find a scale.

I had one of my trailers weighed at a rock/stone landscape company. Then you have a better idea on which vehicle will serve you best.
 
i have a lot of experiance with the 6.5L Gm diesels. A lot of times people want to sell you an injection pump when its either the encoder or the PMD. The PMD is like $200 or you can get used ones. Don't forget there is no tune ups, MAF sensors, ect to go bad on the diesel. The 160K miles isnt bad.. it should got till atlease 200K if not 300K.
 
Hi, ShineTimeDetail:

Wow, you carry a lot of stuff. Challenging. Do you like a van? If yes, it sounds like a one ton van might be your choice.

May I suggest an alternative? You can do the math on it for both choices and see if it makes sense (I am not doing the math here, so not sure).

Buy a pickup with an extended cab. Own your own home? Well, you can always use a pickup. A 3/4 ton will be good. A one ton is heavy, and chances of any reasonable gas mileage are nonexistent, and the ride is harsh. With it, buy a Wells Cargo Express Wagon 8 foot wide 16 foot trailer with a ramp and e-track on floor and walls (two rows on walls, two or three on floor). Find one used, and you can add the e-track if it does not have it. It will have dual axles and electric brakes. You can install a Prodigy brake control (this is the best one to use) in your truck. With this combo, you can use this for work or home chores. You get max useage out of this combo. The trailer would hold what you need (if you buy used make sure you know the real weight capacity of the trailer, because they are made in different weight ratings).

That's my 2 cents. Good luck. PS: I would avoid a diesel. A client of mine who services big rig diesels (and works on the consumer versions) told me never to buy a consumer size diesel truck. He said they are too expensive to repair and the cost of maintenance is way too high compared to gas and maintenance for a gas engine. The mileage is not that much better.
 
The Heater said:
That's my 2 cents. Good luck. PS: I would avoid a diesel. A client of mine who services big rig diesels (and works on the consumer versions) told me never to buy a consumer size diesel truck. He said they are too expensive to repair and the cost of maintenance is way too high compared to gas and maintenance for a gas engine. The mileage is not that much better.
Click to expand...

Everyone will have an opinion.. I say make your own. I have had multiple GM diesels both the 6.5: and Duramax, as well as my favorite 7.3L Power Stroke diesels. The 6.5s are not going to be powerhouses but they are far better then any gas engine GM offered in those year trucks. The Power-Stroke is a beast, I loved my F250 4x4, in 4L I think that truck could rip itself apart.

As far as consumer diesels they are built for a market and of course the durability is less then a HD or off road equipment, but so is the price.

For information as to up keep here is what I found.

Injectors for the PS diesel are about $425 each
Injector for the 6.5L are like $80 each
Injection pump for 6.5L is going to be around $1300 dressed and this is for a new pump not reman.

Turbos can be costly but often can be rebuilt for $500 or so if you find a good shop.

For the PS I kept a cam position sensor in the glove box, it was $100 and they tend to fail.

With any diesel you need to make sure fuel quality is the best you can provide. Change filters, avoid water, and run a GOOD diesel additive.. the additive might add $0.05 a gallon but pays off in the long run.

The benefit of a diesel pays off if you are going to use the truck as a work vehicle. For your daily driver car replacement of course the diesel is going to cost you more. But the benefits of the diesel come when you are working the vehicle. Towing a load will no longer be an issue unless your topping mountains with miles and miles of grade and you are maxing out the capacity of the truck.

I for own will own nothing else as a work vehicle. Put it this way the 7.3L Power-Stroke in a one Ton van or truck is rated to tow less because of the vehicle chassis. The same motor is used in International box and city trucks and some of those are rated to haul 15-20k LBS.

If you want HD diesel is the only way to go. If you want something you can work on then go gas, or I will offer free tech advise if you need it. I still hold an ADS certification and ran a fuel shop for a few years. I was the guy other "mechanics" brought vehicles to when they could not figure out power-train issues. I have worked on a bit of everything over the years, from HD off road to diesel lawn equipment.
 
See I wouldn't mind a F250 7.3 at all!! I really like them. I want to stick with the van bc I'm planning on starting up a mobile oil change too. I plan to upgrade to the 5(6)x10 trailer for all my detailing supplies etc. and using the van for my oil set up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top