Time to “step it up” .... thoughts?

If you want to save your arms and are ready to drop some coin go with the Rupes system approach. Get a Rupes 15 and some blue and yellow pads and the associated Rupes polishes. It will be smoother than the Flex and as you age your body will appreciate it.

Buy a pad cleaner. Poorboys Pad Cleaner is a good one.

After polishing to perfection step up to a coating. Many to choose from CarPro CQuartzUK is a good one.

By all means get that PW. Get a good foam lance and let the fun begin.
 
So you figure the larger throw is better than a forced rotation? The Rupes are actually cheaper than the 3401.

Less vibration would be huge for me. Why the 15, and not the larger one?
 
Eldorado2k said:
I just cleaned a bunch of my pads yesterday...
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I have to hand it to you, Eldo, that was maybe the best pad cleaning post I've ever seen. Just some real good common sense, and some things I never thought of, like the jet spray from the hose...how much time I've wasted rubbing pads under running water in the sink inside...just never occurred to me to wash them like that.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
If you want to save your arms and are ready to drop some coin go with the Rupes system approach. Get a Rupes 15 and some blue and yellow pads and the associated Rupes polishes. It will be smoother than the Flex and as you age your body will appreciate it.

Buy a pad cleaner. Poorboys Pad Cleaner is a good one.

After polishing to perfection step up to a coating. Many to choose from CarPro CQuartzUK is a good one.

By all means get that PW. Get a good foam lance and let the fun begin.
Click to expand...

Now this sounds like a plan!
 
Which totally awesome product? I guess it’d be good for rims too?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I have to hand it to you, Eldo, that was maybe the best pad cleaning post I've ever seen. Just some real good common sense, and some things I never thought of, like the jet spray from the hose...how much time I've wasted rubbing pads under running water in the sink inside...just never occurred to me to wash them like that.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks man, I appreciate it!

bean438 said:
Eldo, can you confirm exactly which totally awesome cleaner you use? They have a few. General all purpose concentrated, a green cleaner, and orange cleaner, pine cleaner , etc.

If I had to guess, it’d be this one:

Awesome All Purpose Concentrated Cleaner (128oz) | LA's Totally Awesome
Click to expand...

Yes, that’s the 1.
 
bean438 said:
Do I really need pad cleaner? Car wash soap ok? Or dish soap?
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I use 3D Towel Kleen. Cheap, super concentrated, and does a great job. I put my pads in a 5gal bucket of warm soapy water using about 2-3oz of TK as I change pads.

I usually let them soak cleaning them at night. I power spray them with a hose nozzle in my laundry tub. They come perfectly clean.

I wring them out by hand and use the drain and spin cycle on our washer to dry them. Lay flat to dry.


Sent from my Galaxy Note 8 using Tapatalk
 
bean438 said:
So you figure the larger throw is better than a forced rotation? The Rupes are actually cheaper than the 3401.

Less vibration would be huge for me. Why the 15, and not the larger one?
Click to expand...

The 15 is the detailers best friend. It is more maneuverable than the 21. If you watch detailing videos almost all of them use the 15. It’s the only Rupes polisher that has “Detailing” on the top hand rest. It will save your body in the long run.
 
How much “smoother” is the Rupes compared to the 3401?
How smoother is it compared to my UDM (porter cable knock off)

Currently at the end of detailing my car my arms are vibrating, and I pop some Advil.

Been looking into,Rupes. I really like the simplicity.... yellow pad, yellow polish, etc.
 
bean438 said:
How much “smoother” is the Rupes compared to the 3401?
How smoother is it compared to my UDM (porter cable knock off)

Currently at the end of detailing my car my arms are vibrating, and I pop some Advil.

Been looking into,Rupes. I really like the simplicity.... yellow pad, yellow polish, etc.
Click to expand...

If your UDM is set up with a 6" plate system, both the 3401 and 15 will be smoother. I can barely use the PC 7424 at high speeds with 6" pads it vibrates so much.

If your UDM is set up for 5", not much will be smoother, but will be comparable. The 3401 can fight you if you don't keep the pad flat. The Rupes orbitals are usually always very smooth.
 
bean438 said:
Interesting. I thought you were referring to finishing pads, lol

If I buy the 3401 it’s hybrid pads. Now I’m not sure what to buy for my UDM?

If the ccs pads are not good why does AG still sell them?
Click to expand...

If you stick with the UDM, consider picking up a 5" plate and some 5.5" pads.

Maybe Lake Country Microfiber cutting, SDO orange polishing, and SDO black to apply wax if needed. I'd get at the very least four cutting and polishing, and two for wax.

CCS pads are great. If you go for them with the UDM get the 5.5"

You can also used the 5.5" pads with the 3401 if you pick up a 4 3/8" Flex backing plate for the 3401.
 
bean438 said:
So id like some opinions please.
Click to expand...


I don't do a ton of detailing but I do a few cars each month. I try to stick with "simple" because it's the easiest and the fastest but it's also NOT a ceramic paint coating and a lot of people want a ceramic paint coating on their car's finish.

When it comes to keeping it simple, the fastest way I know to buff out a car and maintain super high quality results, is to use a FLEX 3401 with a Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid white foam polishing pad with some BLACKFIRE One Step.

I have not found a faster, more time-efficient way to buff out a neglected car and get great results. Then if you want longer lasting protection simply apply some SONAX Polymer Net Shield to all the horizontal surfaces then stick a fork in it and call it done.

The FLEX 3401 is a BEAST and if you're only working on your own cars you'll be passing it on to your daughter.


:)
 
I use a process similar to Eldorado - Although I made one of those home made pad washers out of a bucket into which I cut large holes around the bottom rim, and screwed a grit guard to the center (height-wise). Then I power wash (after they have been soaking in pad cleaner). I do notice that for softer pads, I need to be careful. I had to throw out a couple because power washing them at full blast was damaging them. So I fan the spray out quite wide now. Takes a bit more time, but not having to stand over the sink is a huge time savings.

I originally "spun dried" them, but I had too many flying off the polisher, and always felt I was putting more pressure on the machine than it was designed to take. So now I wring the pads out and I have Velcro tape underneath a shelf in my garage that I stick them to let them dry the last 10 - 20%. Next morning I put inspect them and put them away.

I've got my eye on the Grit Guard Pad Washer, but there are too many other items I need / want before it to spend the money.
 
I use the same approach as Eldo...I spin my pads dry (well, drier) with my cheapo rotary and always in an empty bucket. I've had some pads fly away before I learned to have a "containment device"!
 
Paul A. said:
I use the same approach as Eldo...I spin my pads dry (well, drier) with my cheapo rotary and always in an empty bucket. I've had some pads fly away before I learned to have a "containment device"!
Click to expand...

I spin mine on a bucket too.
 
dlc95 said:
If your UDM is set up with a 6" plate system, both the 3401 and 15 will be smoother. I can barely use the PC 7424 at high speeds with 6" pads it vibrates so much.

If your UDM is set up for 5", not much will be smoother, but will be comparable. The 3401 can fight you if you don't keep the pad flat. The Rupes orbitals are usually always very smooth.
Click to expand...

I,can’t recall what size plate is on my UDM but my pads are 6.5”. Gonna maybe try smaller pads. Any backer plates that fit the porter cable should fit UDM right?

I’ll still use my UDM on my truck, and to polish glass with Klasse and a green pad.

I might actually enjoy the UDM with a smaller pad. Still gonna get another buffer though.
 
Mike Phillips said:
I don't do a ton of detailing but I do a few cars each month. I try to stick with "simple" because it's the easiest and the fastest but it's also NOT a ceramic paint coating and a lot of people want a ceramic paint coating on their car's finish.

When it comes to keeping it simple, the fastest way I know to buff out a car and maintain super high quality results, is to use a FLEX 3401 with a Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid white foam polishing pad with some BLACKFIRE One Step.

I have not found a faster, more time-efficient way to buff out a neglected car and get great results. Then if you want longer lasting protection simply apply some SONAX Polymer Net Shield to all the horizontal surfaces then stick a fork in it and call it done.

The FLEX 3401 is a BEAST and if you're only working on your own cars you'll be passing it on to your daughter.


:)
Click to expand...

There is ABSOLUTELY something to be said about simple! In the past few days I’ve researched myself to death back and forth between random orbit, forced rotation, flex, Rupes, synthetic canuba, etc.

Add YouTube to the mix and I have an internet headache.

Mike, in your opinion you favor forced rotation over a longer throw?
 
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