Tip for Iron X users - Rinse well to avoid molding drip

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
7
Tip for Iron X users - Rinse well to avoid molding drip

My friend Jim Goguen of Jim's Auto Installations & Detailing Center, shared a tip to help people avoid having moldings, trim, even cracks and crevices from dripping purple throughout the day and that's to always rinse your project really well after using Iron X with concentrated focus on these areas.


One thing I would add when using Iron-X be sure to rinse moldings really well as they tend to hold the product and keep dripping purple all day

While a simple tip, I thought it was a great tip, so I turned his tip into a dedicated article to help others into the future while giving him due credit.


Here's some pictures to show you an example of the type of areas to make sure you rinse thoroughly.

Iron X is a great product for chemically removing embedded iron particles out of your car's or your customer's car's paint.

If this garage kept 2000 Lotus Esprit has iron contamination, how much more so the average daily driver parked outside most of the time?


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_03.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_04c.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_05.jpg



All panted panels were thoroughly covered with Iron X early in the morning while it was still cool out so the Iron X could work its magic without drying to quickly.

Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_01.jpg



Iron X is a thin liquid and will seep into cracks and crevices as well as behind exterior trim, moldings and even emblems and badges.

Be sure to rinse these areas really well to avoid having them continue to drip purple after washing and drying.

Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_02.jpg




Thanks for the tip Jim!


Personal comment....
I really like Iron X and use it for almost all of my car detailing projects as well as show how to use it in my detailing boot camp classes.

I also feature it in all my automotive detailing how-to books as I think its' one of the most important first step a person can do to ensure show car results when detailing anything important. See my signature line for the various options for my how-to book.


As you can see by these pictures, this 2000 Lotus Esprit, even being garage kept and with only 9000 miles on it had iron contamination throughout all the body panel. The safest way to remove iron particles is to chemically dissolve them.

Mechanically removing them via detailing clay or some other mechanical is not only not as effective since the particles can be embedded in the paint, not on it, and if you do remove them mechanically you will then be rubbing them over the paint potentially inflicting swirls and scratches.


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_06.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_07.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_08.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_09.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_10.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_11.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_12.jpg



The best way to ensure your car's paint is not contaminated with any type of iron particles is to use a product like Iron X to chemically remove these types of contaminants.

Then after removing the iron contaminants, finish washing and drying the car and re-inspect the paint using the Baggie Test. If you still feel little bumps on the paint this indicates some other form of contaminant and for this you would then use a mechanical means to remove them such as detailing clay or a product from Nanoskin such as their Nanoskin Autoscrub Wash Mitts, Towels or Pads.

Iron X will not remove contaminants like overspray paint, tree sap mist, etc. These will need to be removed after chemically decontaminating the paint to remove iron particles.

In most cases, if a paint has iron contamination it's highly likely it also has other forms of contaminants.

If you really want to create the nicest finish possible you must remove all forms of above surface and embedded contaminants as gloss comes from a smooth surface plus removing all contaminants makes all other correction and polishing steps safer and more effective.



Iron X on Autogeek.net

Iron X 500 ml

CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent 500 ml

See all Iron X products from CarPro



:xyxthumbs:
 
Fantastic article Mike. Iron-X is a must for ensuring the iron particles are removed from paint prior to claying.

Another thing I do after a solid rinse down is get out a leaf blower and force dry all the trim and cracks where water like to hide. :xyxthumbs:
 
I bought IronX in December and still did not have a chance to use it, can't wait for Spring!!!
 
I make a point to rinse very well and blow out any of those crevices/moldings with compressed air. It should be done regardless to remove as much grit build-up before polishing, otherwise you risk dislodging grit due to vibration of a DA when polishing right under a molding. One little piece of sand that vibrates loose and falls from the molding into your pad could really ruin your day. It's quick, easy and could save some serious headaches.
 
This is a great and much needed article concerning this product.

The first time I used iron-x, even after rinsing extremely well, the product still had the power to keep on working...bleeding from the trim on my Regal GS.

At the time I didn't have any way to dry the vehicle other than waffle weave towels and even then after drying some water drained from under the door guard, while I was polishing on the opposite side, and dried on the paint leaving a streak of rust/purple colored stainging on my paint. It looked very similar to what you see in the photo below just below the "T".


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_10.jpg



I tried several products trying to remove the stain, but it wouldn't budge, even with M105/M205. This lead me to believe it etched into the paint. I wish I had a picture to post here on this thread, but I didn't think about it at the time and I've since sold the car.
 
Will trix pretty much accomplish the same thing? Reason I ask is I got 2 bottles on bogo and want to use them up before purchasing strictly iron x. Thanks.
 
Will trix pretty much accomplish the same thing? Reason I ask is I got 2 bottles on bogo and want to use them up before purchasing strictly iron x. Thanks.

Yes it will, it will also remove tar during the process.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
Would using painters tape on the top side of the molding help prevent iron x from getting behind the trim, etc.
 
Will trix pretty much accomplish the same thing? Reason I ask is I got 2 bottles on bogo and want to use them up before purchasing strictly iron x. Thanks.

Trix is a superb product. Does everything Iron-X does plus tar. Outstanding wheel cleaner as well. But very expensive!
 
Nice article Mike, can I use iron x to remove iron particles on a car coated with black label paint coating without worrying about stripping the protection? I onr'ed my optima last weekend and noticed little bits of iron throughout the paintwork.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Would using painters tape on the top side of the molding help prevent iron x from getting behind the trim, etc.

Problem with taping off is that a lot of times I see the orange iron flecks in between the spaces in the emblems, so you need to get the IX in those areas. If they were solid emblems, then maybe try taping them off (but you actually have to have the tape on the paint a little bit to try and create a seal). It's really easiest to just rinse really well. I like to go around the car twice with a really good jet of water and really focus on the cracks and crevices. That has worked for me so far.
 
Problem with taping off is that a lot of times I see the orange iron flecks in between the spaces in the emblems, so you need to get the IX in those areas. If they were solid emblems, then maybe try taping them off (but you actually have to have the tape on the paint a little bit to try and create a seal). It's really easiest to just rinse really well. I like to go around the car twice with a really good jet of water and really focus on the cracks and crevices. That has worked for me so far.

Thanks, I ask because I have the product but waiting for the weather to break and I have never used it.
 
Thanks Mike great tip for sure. Iron X is a must have not just for the professionals but any car enthusiast that wants your paint flawless, this is a must have. Well worth the investment.
 
Nice!
Picked up my first bottle of IX, been going the "Clay-only" route. Looking forward to see what the deal is on this.
 
Being new to the forum I am just learning how little I knew about detailing but glad to be learning so much.

I had never heard of Iron X before but I certainly want to start using it. I have a question, though. The AG link to Iron X states this precaution: Note: Iron X should not be used on bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas.

I imagine one would use the blue painter's tape to cover the wheel balancing weights, but how do you mask off the calipers? Are the barrels of stock wheels usually safe for Iron -X?

Thanks for your help!
 
Great article Mike! I would note that this product is somewhat an acid type product. I do not use it without protection for my skin. Also at the very least stay up wind of the spray or use it in a place where there is no wind but very good ventilation. It is an awesome product and does make the claying process go much faster.
 
Being new to the forum I am just learning how little I knew about detailing but glad to be learning so much.

I had never heard of Iron X before but I certainly want to start using it. I have a question, though. The AG link to Iron X states this precaution: Note: Iron X should not be used on bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas.

I imagine one would use the blue painter's tape to cover the wheel balancing weights, but how do you mask off the calipers? Are the barrels of stock wheels usually safe for Iron -X?

Thanks for your help!

Use a plastic grocery bag or trash bag to cover the rotor and caliper. Tuck it in between the wheel and the rotor. This will block the iron x from hitting the caliper and rotor which causes it to rust. It takes less than a minute to block off a rotor and caliper with this method.
 
Use a plastic grocery bag or trash bag to cover the rotor and caliper. Tuck it in between the wheel and the rotor. This will block the iron x from hitting the caliper and rotor which causes it to rust. It takes less than a minute to block off a rotor and caliper with this method.

Thanks, Hazcat! :props:
 
WOW! Mike you get a lot of nice rides to work with! Let me ask you all this . Can't you just dilute Iron X on cars that is not badly contaminated? To prevent molding drip? The product works with water.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top