Tip for Iron X users - Rinse well to avoid molding drip

Another tip for getting the most out of products like Iron X and other decon gels is to use air to apply them quickly, evenly, and much less wastefully. I use the Optimum spray gun to apply mine instead of the supplied trigger sprayer.
 
TundraPower said:
Trix is a superb product. Does everything Iron-X does plus tar. Outstanding wheel cleaner as well. But very expensive!
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TRIX is cheaper than Iron-X. My understanding is that it is less effective than using Iron-X and Tar-X separately.
 
other things to know:
1) wear some type of gloves
2) wear disposable mask
3) have a dedicated "IRON-X" wash media
4) WASH your clothes ASAP because the odor will linger long after you are
Finished w/your detail session.
Will say this though... It is a must- have go to product.
 
Kenny94 said:
WOW! Mike you get a lot of nice rides to work with!

Let me ask you all this . Can't you just dilute Iron X on cars that is not badly contaminated? To prevent molding drip? The product works with water.
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I guess you could dilute the Iron X and it might still work? I think it would be hard to tell though and if you're going to decontaminate a car might as well just go for it.

Another option would be to use the Iron X Snow Foam is you have a foam gun or just use it as your car wash soap.


Here's some more Iron X pictures from an all original 1990 Corvete we washed here at Autogeek over the weekend. We're going to use it for a Thursday night project car and I wanted to make sure the paint was not contaminated before the buffing starts.


Car Wash Day at Autogeek



Car_Wash_Day_011.jpg


Car_Wash_Day_012.jpg




More pictures in the thread.....

Car Wash Day at Autogeek


:)
 
Thanks for your response Mike. The word guess answered that question. Again, thank you for the tips and hope to see you this summer in your detailing class to learn more about the art of detailing and product knowledge.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Kenny94 said:
Thanks for your response Mike. The word guess answered that question. Again, thank you for the tips and hope to see you this summer in your detailing class to learn more about the art of detailing and product knowledge.
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I hope you can make it to one of my classes too.... not only do you learn a lot but I promise you'll have a lot of fun too!

Plus you'll get to work on cool cars!


Win/Win/Win


:dblthumb2:
 
Mike, Seriously newb question here, but I keep expanding my understanding. Where is this iron coming from, other vehicles, nature, just airborne pollution? I can remember when I was younger seeing a certain chemical company plant near my home and it was always a shade of red and everything around it as well, so I am guessing it's just a naturally occurring containment, would that be correct? Also is it safe to use Iron-X 2 times a year or more since there is no actual abrasion on the clear coat unlike clay or polishing?

OK, I did a search but I didn't see anything about Iron-X and PPF, any thoughts?
 
chrislorl said:
Mike, Seriously newb question here, but I keep expanding my understanding. Where is this iron coming from, other vehicles, nature, just airborne pollution?
Click to expand...

Iron particles are part of general industrial, transport and traffic pollution.

Rail dust from transporting cars via railroad
Industrial pollution in the way of airborne fallout.
Airborne brake dust from the rotors of cars in traffic.

That's off the top of my head... big picture is all you have to do is use an iron remover a few times and the visual IMPACT of the contamination on your car's paint turning red and bleeding off is enough to convince most people that iron contamination does in fact exist. Where it comes from can be interesting but I don't spend much time trying to figure out the cause, just the remedy.


chrislorl said:
I can remember when I was younger seeing a certain chemical company plant near my home and it was always a shade of red and everything around it as well, so I am guessing it's just a naturally occurring containment, would that be correct?
Click to expand...

Probably.


chrislorl said:
Also is it safe to use Iron-X 2 times a year or more since there is no actual abrasion on the clear coat unlike clay or polishing?
Click to expand...

Yes. I use an iron remover on our Mercedes-Benz about every other wash and always see contamination bleeding off.



chrislorl said:
OK, I did a search but I didn't see anything about Iron-X and PPF, any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Completely safe when used with common sense, i.e. don't allow to dry on the surface in direct sun. Don't scrub paint protection films when using ANYTHING on them. Treat them like you might scratch them just by touching them and you'll avoid scratching them.


:)
 
Once a car is coated can I use an iron remover once a year to keep the finish clean without hurting the coating? I was thinking to avoid mechanical decon because of the rubbing motion, so what's best here?

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
Klasse Act said:
Once a car is coated can I use an iron remover once a year to keep the finish clean without hurting the coating? I was thinking to avoid mechanical decon because of the rubbing motion, so what's best here?
Click to expand...

Yes, but you may still have to Nano/clay to remove some contaminants. I use Nano-sponges with a small pale of Meg's Gold Class mixed up super soapy and it's never caused any marring. I do my Audi when necessary and the van usually in the spring. It's on my books to do the van in the coming weeks as she's been several weeks now without a bath.
 
Is it best to wash the car before using IronX or do you wait until after using it?
 
ski2 said:
Is it best to wash the car before using IronX or do you wait until after using it?
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That is the 64,000 dollar question.


There's two schools of thought...

1: Apply an iron remover to dry paint and use the existing film build of dirt and oily road grime to help hold the iron remove onto the panel while it does its thing....

2: Apply an iron remover after first washing and rinsing the car so the existing film build of dirt and oily road grime is out of the way for the iron remover to do its thing...


I tend to use the first option but last week I did a test and did both the first and second option. Took pictures too. :Picture:


  1. I think both approaches work.
  2. I think a case can be made and supported for both approaches.



And for these two reasons I think it comes down to personal preference or in some cases, what your goal is.

By "what your goal is" I mean sometimes I do things for the picture value.


:)
 
Hi Mike,
Thank you for doing this test, it is good to know that when working on a car that is not to dirty that I can just iron X, wash clay then correct or polish. It saves a step on those cars.
 
Mike Phillips said:
I guess you could dilute the Iron X and it might still work? I think it would be hard to tell though and if you're going to decontaminate a car might as well just go for it.

Another option would be to use the Iron X Snow Foam is you have a foam gun or just use it as your car wash soap.


Here's some more Iron X pictures from an all original 1990 Corvete we washed here at Autogeek over the weekend. We're going to use it for a Thursday night project car and I wanted to make sure the paint was not contaminated before the buffing starts.


Car Wash Day at Autogeek



Car_Wash_Day_011.jpg


Car_Wash_Day_012.jpg




More pictures in the thread.....

Car Wash Day at Autogeek


:)
Click to expand...

Most of this is from the fastners holding the part to the body.

The paint is fine, but the problem still is the bleed drying on the paint.

Pressure washer and air blower should keep the dripping to a minimum.
 
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