Tips to cut down on time

[Finick]

Far from a pro myself, but my first time machine polishing, man did I hate setting the bottle down (nearby table, ground, etc.) And having to pick it up constantly. Since then, I've started using a little cart (like a wagon). But even that was getting to be a PITA..


Now, I simply wear a pair of cargo shorts and keep the bottle in the big pocket on the thigh. The 16oz bottle sticks out enough to grab it easily, and it's always right there by my hand.

It’s funny, I bought a bunch of 16oz megs self cleaning bottles awhile back, and they’re a good size.. but I ended up sending 8oz Pinnacle bottles from AG to someone for them to send me samples in.

Same bottle basically, but I find the 8oz to be such a nice size to keep in my pocket.

Sort of the same way I find the 24oz bottles I have to be like the perfect size. 32 just seems like so much sometimes, and if I need that much I usually just put it in a pump sprayer .


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[Eldorado2k]

I also don't tape off trim. I know some will debate it but for me it works. Taping off seems and trim is a waste for me. I simple clean, prep and treat the trim first. I am very careful about not touching it but if I do, treated trim that hasn't been wiped off is a snap to clean.

What product do you use to prep the trim prior to polishing? And what happens if/when your polishing pad accidentally goes over the trim? Does it create a mess of the pad? Or no big deal?

 

[TTQ B4U]

What product do you use to prep the trim prior to polishing? And what happens if/when your polishing pad accidentally goes over the trim? Does it create a mess of the pad? Or no big deal?

Usually WETS. Not a big deal if the pad hits it. Wipe it on the trim but don't wipe it off. Let it dwell and soak in. When done with the whole car after sealing / coating, I'll go back and wipe the trim down with a damp cloth. Zero issues. In the event some polish or what not leaves a mark, just a little McKee's Wax Remover and a MF Rag will remove it.

On window seals, sunroof seals, etc. I clean them really good afterwards vs before. There I spray some Eraser/Prep on a MF Rag, then hit it good with some solvent like 3M Adhesive remover and really wipe them of and clean. Use a crummy MF Towel since as you are aware, those seals usually rub off dark/black gunk. Then they are super clean for sealing up or protecting themselves. Windshields get McKee's Glass Coating and thus the seals there do too. The rest of the windows I've moved to using Gyeon CanCoat and the seals get covered too.

 

[Boudin]

A long throw DA ( Boss G21 w/ 6" pads) you don't need to use as much downward pressure and corrects in fewer passes, can cover lot of real estate quickly without much effort.

Single step compound/polish, like FG400. Unless the paint is severely hammered or working on soft black paint, I've had great results with single stage corrections.

Rolling creeper seat with storage, like the new SpeedMaster seat. Its the perfect height to work on the entire sides of cars. It rolls so much better than those smaller rolling seats so I can work a bigger area and roll side to side.

Wall mounted lighting. Saves time inspecting and chasing removal of products.

Retractable cord reels on each side of garage. Saves time maneuvering cords.

This might be looked down upon, but I've seen no adverse effect of skipping the clay/decontamination steps, going straight from wash to polish. Now if the paint is severely contaminated I'll do it, but its removed anyway when polishing. Or I will clay the top of the vehicle only. Pad may get dirty quicker, so may need more pads.





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[Belo]

The Detailer?s Helper Tool Belt Saves an Average of 30 Minutes Per Detail!

thanks. interesting... but i'm not sure $60 interesting for a non-pro haha.

 

[Belo]

Far from a pro myself, but my first time machine polishing, man did I hate setting the bottle down (nearby table, ground, etc.) And having to pick it up constantly. Since then, I've started using a little cart (like a wagon). But even that was getting to be a PITA..


Now, I simply wear a pair of cargo shorts and keep the bottle in the big pocket on the thigh. The 16oz bottle sticks out enough to grab it easily, and it's always right there by my hand.

I also agree with Paul on the detailing belts. Not a fan of the idea.

only problem i have with that is all my cargos have buttons, zippers, belts. I only detail in gym shorts. But I'm sure I can find a pair out there somewhere that is made of gym short fabric and has a cargo pocket!

 

[Eldorado2k]

I've never been a fan of detailing "belts" to avoid scratching or marring a surface. That may just be me, though.

I also agree with Paul on the detailing belts. Not a fan of the idea.

The Detailers Helper Belt does Not scratch paint. You’d be about as likely to scratch the paint while using the belt as you would be to scratch the paint while drying a just washed car with a waffle weave.. So basically the odds are nill.

However it does get a bit heavy [especially when holding a polisher] but at the same time it’s sort of halfway genius to be able to have your polisher by your side at all times during a detail. You also lose a bit of your mobility because the belt fits snug and the contents sort of force you to stand up straight at all times.

I wouldn’t quite go as far as calling it a catch 22, but it’s close...
FYI: When fully loaded, like I am in this pic, I gained 10lbs. on the scale.

The cord loop is pretty cool, as it eliminates the need for placing the cord over your shoulder. I think we can all agree on hating to have to do that. Lol.

 

[Belo]

now that's a detailer that means business haha. I agree that cord loop might make the whole thing worth it.

 

[PaulMys]

I'm hip on the scratch factor, Eldo.

Just don't want all that gear weighing on me, like you said.

I'd be walking around like young Forrest Gump with the leg braces on..........:laughing::laughing:

 

[FUNX650]

Bill,

Remember these products...
and their claim in providing shortcuts
in the never-ending quest for shine?

Suppose they could “cut down on time”?

:bolt:

Bob

 

[Eldorado2k]

I'm hip on the scratch factor, Eldo.

Just don't want all that gear weighing on me, like you said.

I'd be walking around like young Forrest Gump with the leg braces on..........:laughing::laughing:

If Forrest Gump and Robocop had a lovechild... Yea, that’s sort of what you feel like while working with it.

 

[BillE]

Not a pro here, but I noticed in my 2 step last thursday, the most annoying thing besides my cord was setting down and picking my polish or sealant bottle. Do they make a belt or something like tool belts to hold bottles/mf towels?

A CLOTH nail belt. Many hardware/lumber yards give/gave them away. Just like a leather carpenter's belt, but with only a couple of pockets that are just big enough to hold a quart bottle.

Does that make sense? Can't seem to get the words right (LOL).

Bill

 

[PaulMys]

A CLOTH nail belt. Many hardware/lumber yards give/gave them away. Just like a leather carpenter's belt, but with only a couple of pockets that are just big enough to hold a quart bottle.

Does that make sense? Can't seem to get the words right (LOL).

Bill

Yup. I smell what you're stepping in there, Bill...............rops:

 

[TTQ B4U]

One of the tips I use to save on time is to complete one panel at a time when polishing or compounding and then do a full panel wipe off. It all starts with dialing in the product, pad and how long is needed to work/correct to my target amount my goal is to work without having to stop and reload. I do this by applying product directly to the surface ahead of time vs stopping to reload my pad.

Here'a sample image from today's New Car Prep. The longer yellow line marks where I begin with the initial pad primed. The subsequent dots are where I placed drops of product on the panel vs having to stop. To pick up the product without splattering, simply pick up the edge of the spinning pad and set it down on the product and keep going.

You do the math on how much time this may save you as you work.

No more stopping to wipe off sections, just complete the panel
No more reloading the buffer 3-6 times per panel.

It may not sound like a big deal but once your finger comes off the trigger, the clock starts and it doesn't start again until you're rotating at full speed and working again. For me this has easily saved me 20 minutes if not more per job. YMMV.

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[Farmallluvr]

every once in awhile we all get jammed up so being prepared helps as well as being rhythmic in your procedure.
If you do every car the same way every time that helps a lot but also having your supplies tidy and orgaized as well,not to mention radio,phone ,lunch and coffee breaks.
In the enviroment I work in sometimes the deadlines are so short that even all the time saving techniques in the world won't help.
The one thing that really slows me down in the winter is dry time for the interior carpets,,it never gets over 65 in the shop so I have to finish them and put them outside running which I never like to do.
I also lay my compoud/polish .wax down similar to ttq b4u

 

[SWETM]

Maybe a silly question. How do you apply the polish on the panel? Straight from the bottle or a mf towel or from a pad?

 

[TTQ B4U]

Maybe a silly question. How do you apply the polish on the panel? Straight from the bottle or a mf towel or from a pad?

dab it directly on the panel and if it begins to run, then I smudge it with my finger to get it to stay. As you know, it doesn't take much product to get the job done.

 

[Eldorado2k]

No more reloading the buffer 3-6 times per panel.

6 times per panel?lol.

That’s why I like using 7” pads. It takes no more than 2 buffing cycles to complete most panels. [sometimes just 1]

 

[TTQ B4U]

6 times per panel?lol.

That’s why I like using 7” pads. It takes no more than 2 buffing cycles to complete most panels. [sometimes just 1]

I use 5.5" on the Mille and 6.5" on the Flex. Remember too it will be temp/humidity related. There are times where I'm using essence on the Flex and it will begin to dry after only a couple passes as spreading it out thin over a larger area exposes it to drying quickly. Yesterday on that Mazda Pictured it went much much better as it didn't dry until I had my 4-5 passes over a smaller area done. Keep in mind, these are pea-sized drops too.