To buy a rotary or not?

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Kial91

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I currently have a rupes L21 and I use meguiars microfibre pads and d300. Also mix between menzerna products for a heavier cut. But I struggle to get rid of swirls completely, especially on the hood.
When the car is finished it looks awesome but I can still see swirls in the sun.
Would i be better off using a rotary first and just save time by not having to mess around attempting it with a DA?

I've used a rotary a few times and by all means I need practice which I can do on old hoods/ doors etc first but it seems to me learning to use that will save me time and headaches.

I get paid to detail cars and the customers are always happy but I suppose I'm wanting perfection for myself haha.
 
Why not just invest in a forced rotation DA like the Flex rather than take the risk with a rotary?
 
This is gonna be a 2 part answer for you IMO.

1st: With a 21mm polisher you should be able to remove all but the deepest of RIDS especially on a flat panel like hood. You need to adjust your product, pad and/or technique. D300 is a great product but is on the lighter side of compounds IMO. It also leaves oils behind that may mask your work. Use a panel prep for a true inspection.

2nd: if you are willing to learn and practice with test panel, then by all means get a rotary. The more knowledge and tool experience you have the better!
 
A rotary should be used for TRUE paint defect removal. DA's are exceptional at finishing out paint (as are rotarys if you have experience). For a two step a rotary/DA combo would be a nice combination.
 
I think that a DA can do just about any job, but there are the factors of effort, time, vibration, etc. Rotaries are definitely faster and easier. If you are doing headlight restoration then I think a rotary is a must. If you are a tool junkie, a rotary is a must.

That being said, I know detailers who do great work with only a PC 7424XP. Not my style but it works for them. Forced rotation DAs like the Makita PO5000C and Flex 3401 may be the next step for you.
 
KirkH said:
I think that a DA can do just about any job, but there are the factors of effort, time, vibration, etc. Rotaries are definitely faster and easier. If you are doing headlight restoration then I think a rotary is a must. If you are a tool junkie, a rotary is a must.

That being said, I know detailers who do great work with only a PC 7424XP. Not my style but it works for them. Forced rotation DAs like the Makita PO5000C and Flex 3401 may be the next step for you.
Click to expand...

Rupes also came out with a forced rotation polisher. I believe it has a 3mm (correct me if I'm wrong) throw. I've heard great things about it from a few detailers.
 
cwp2016nd said:
Rupes also came out with a forced rotation
polisher. I believe it has a 3mm (correct me
if I'm wrong) throw.

I've heard great things about it
from a few detailers.
Click to expand...

My sources say that RUPES’ LK900E Mille
Gear Driven Polisher has a 5mm throw.

**********************************

@OP:
Although I’ve given away numerous Rotary
polishers over the years...I’m here to report
that I’m so glad to have purchased FLEX’s PE8
Kompakt Rotary Polisher—what a godsend!


Bob
 
I like d300 because how easy it is to wipe off and hardly any dusting. Even the menzerna heavy cut compound wasnt doing much and the swirls dont always seem to bad.

I'm using the correct technique, tried using different downward pressure but can never get perfection with the rupes L21. I may try that carpro clear cut with some different pads and look into some or the Flex equipment with forced rotation
 
Too add to my post: Have you tried the Rupes Buffing liquids and Pads? Rupes is a System approach. Perhaps give their pads and buffing liquids a shot.
 
Only buy a rotary if you are willing to get training with it. I purchased one last year and never use it because every time I try to use it I can't get results even close to my long throw. So training is needed IMO. Once you know how to use it, you should be able to remove defects a DA can't tackle. On super hard clears like Ceramiclear, my DA is totally useless. I can put my most agressive Microfiber pad and use my best compound and damage just doesn't get removed. A rotary should be able to deal with it.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Too add to my post: Have you tried the Rupes Buffing liquids and Pads? Rupes is a System approach. Perhaps give their pads and buffing liquids a shot.
Click to expand...

I started off using the rupes foam pads plus their polish but wasnt really a fan.
Prefer microfiber
 
I definitely want to train to get to know how to use it. I would like to get into boat detailing at some point so will sort of need to know then
 
You might want to learn to dampsand if you're going after gel coats or correcting badly damaged clearcoats. A rotary in trained hands is a great tool.
 
Just compounded and polished my neighbors severely oxidized Toyota pickup. I tried my da with foam and wool/m100. No go. Broke out the rotary with wool. Success. Polished with my DA and m205/foam pad. Looks great.Sometimes a rotary is the ticket.
 
A couple of more questions.

Is it cars with known hard clearcoats you don't get satisfied with the finish?

And do you use a polish to finish after your d300 and mf pad?

How does the swirls looks like after you are done? Does they looks like small pigtales?

Is the paints very neglected and has alot of deeper swirls?

About how many passes per sections do you do when compounding and polishing?
 
My PE-14 saves me a lot of time on hard clears and single stage paint. As long as you use common sense you shouldn't have any problems. Watch some videos, a little practice wouldn't hurt. I think there is a lot of unjustified fear when it comes to rotaries.
 
My PE14 is one of my favorite tools in the arsenal.

IMO, Rotary is the fastest DEEPEST defect removal especially with a wool pad. I think a long throw (21mk2) comes close speedwise on large flat panels, but in the curves or taking out sanding scratches- rotary all day.

Again, my opinion, but the 3401 and mille (own or owned both) aren't as fast or as smooth as either the rotary or the long throws, but are a "safer" option if you're worried about holograms or burning the paint. Mille is a great tool and quite a bit smoother than the 3401, but still not as silky smooth as a rotary.
 
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